My 75 comes back from Chris Foley shop this weekend and will go to paint a week later. in the between time I will be stripping it down to get it ready.

1. what paint would best match the original Copper metallic?
is it single stage or 2?

2. should I keep the sail panels? I have not decided yet but if I don't, how do I go about it? what do you keep , like the trim pieces?

Thanks -

Phil

It would depend on if you were trying to make the car look like it came from the factory or to last. Color match should be equal in SS or BC. If you are looking for color clarity and longevity use base/clear. Premium clear coats have UV protection in them that will protect the color from fade. Also will keep the finish looking fresh for years. If scratched it can be easily buffed out or if needed can be spotted in. Single stage does not allow for the same protection unless you use a urethane single stage and integrate clear in the last coat. Scratch repair is more difficult to buff because you stand a chance of exposing the metallics which changes the color and is very difficult to spot in. As far as the sail panels that is a personal preference kind of thing.
Good luck on the job!!
B
(PPG Automotive Finishes)

Also you going to come to Okteenerfest?!? You don't have to have a 914 with you to be present.

yes i am registered , paid and booked - and the plan is to have the car back together by then and bring it up. I should be able to get it done.
that is the plan!!

Personally, I like the sail vinyl, but I think it's personal preference. As far a paint, I would go with base coat / clear coat at a reputable body shop that can match the color correctly.

joe,

I like both ways, depends on the color of the car or the look you are going for, but with that said, I will probably stay with the sail panels- I already ordered replacements. Besides, Jim Hoyland has a very nice copper metallic car on the west coast , his has the sail vinyl removed, so I think I will keep mine.

on the paint subject, there is a good shop here, excellent rep and lots of examples of their work- he had been painting for 35 years and specialzing in classic restoration work. Last month I spent some time visiting with him at C&C event where the had 2 recent restore projects. one was a 70's Maverik and the other was an 82 Corvette.
we will see which way he prefers to go regarding type ofpaint etc. but I wanted feedback from the group here since you all have done this before and I figured someone here probably has done the metallic and has and experienced opinion on the matter.

- I guess full originality is not themost important but longevity is, so I might opt toward the 2 stage base and clear, what you said about that makes a lot of sense.

Phl

Excellent!! We look forward to seeing you. Hopefully in the 914!

PPG Deltron will be the best match to original. When you start stepping down to cheaper paint lines, you lose a lot of pigments. I.E. Irish Green in Deltron has 7 different pigments, in Shopline or a cheaper brand it may only have 4-5. That doesn't sound like much until you put it next to the original color.

Base Clear all the way ESPECIALLY on metallics

thanks for your input, i appreciate it! btw do you have any rust free doors in your stash of car parts etc?

I agree completely !! Delton is good stuff. If you have a shop that sprays the enviro base water borne the color really pops!
Have them use one of the premium clears. I would check with your shop and see what he likes as far as clears. Please let me know if you need any help and I can get you in touch with one of our local guys. I work for PPG automotive coatings.
See you at Teener!
B

Hey Phil,

The original factory metallics were in fact a 3 stage base/color/clear - so that's not an issue to go that way today, but with more modern & durable paints which are available.

Today's urethanes are probably going to be the most durable you'll find, as the others above have said, & from what my Dad had told me about them (he invented them & urethane varnish back in the 1950-60's while at Koppers). While urethane paints were available when our 914s were mfgd., I'm not sure that they used urethane paints on them back then.

I'd recco you stick with only top line paints, with a good epoxy primer/sealer to treat the rust from bare metal under it (also top quality). The PPG named above, Dupont, Glasurit & Sikkends are all recognized as top best-of-the-best for paints/primers/sealers, & a good local paint shop will know that.

If you're not skilled in body work, then you should probably have them work up from the bare metal to do all the block sanding & other skilled work to get a baby's-bum finish under the paint (I'm not).

Here's a source for the paint colors & mfgrs., but I think that some of the other mfgrs will have it too (BTW - Sherwin-Williams is NOT a top quality). IIRC Glasurit/Dupont has a Classic paints line with the 914 colors too.

http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedispl...975&rows=50

IIRC - they used PPG on my 73 2L back in Summer 76 when I had it repainted to Copper in 3-stage.

IIRC Jeff Bowlsby's website has the factory metallic 3-stage repaint guide for dealers in his Tech Docs. section or somewhere on there.

http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/

As for the sail trip - I too prefer the black vinyl sails & black satin/semi-flat rockers look cuz it make our 914s look even lower slung, & if it came that way from the factory (either as a separate option or as part of the Appearance Group) & you're wanting to keep it at max. value it should go back to original with sails.

But if that's not your preference, then do at least save your hardware & trim if you or a FO wants to put it back to original. The mounting holes will also need to be filled to delete the trim/vinyl option, but you may want to try to do it in a reversible way, & do take some measured pix (tape measure/ruler from mounting holes to reference points), so that you or a FO can find them later.

Good Luck!
Tom
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Tom could you please expand on this. Exactly what is the difference between a base coat vs a color coat ?

Correction Phil,

I looked back at the paint doc on Jeff's site, & I stand corrected - the 914/911 used a 2-coat color/clear.

Look near the bottom of this page:
http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/RareDocs.htm

> look for this document: "1972 Two-Coat Metallic Paint Repair Processes, 12 pages"

Still, it is a multi-coat with clear top coat paint job on the 914 & 911 metallics from the factory.


Tom
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Scotty,

Back in the 1960's my uncle used to shoot his Hot-Rods, Rail, 58 'Vette, etc. in a 3-step base-color-clear as they called it, using the urethane & earlier non-lacquer paints, wherein the base & color both had color, but the base has solid color only, & the color coat had the color + metallics.

His paint guy also did old school lacquer build-ups of 10-20+ coats, usually with the metallic in only some of the coats, depending upon the depth effects they were trying to get.

He preferred the urethane paints, once they came out commercially though, & even has his & my Dad's 18' cabin cruiser done in a metalllic blue 3-tone scheme shot in urethane enamel.

As I noted above, the Porsche metallics were actually only 2 stage - in which case the base & color is the same thing.

Of course you're a painter, & already know all this, but I wanted you to know that I've "been around the block" once or twice, even though I know I'm not skilled enough to attempt painting my cars myself!


Tom
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