I have a Porsche 550 replica with a 914 side-shift setup. Sloppy shifting is my woe.

I got a new ball cup bushing to insert into the shift rod coupler/head. The pelican parts tutorial states that it is really tough to get the bushing in there. My new bushing, though, is so loose that it falls out, it's definitely swimming in the shift rod coupler.

Is this normal, or is the shift rod coupler worn out?

The coupling should snap onto the ball and require significant force to remove.
But the cup bushing is supposed to move freely inside the cup.
In fact you need to grease it so that it can slide in & out.

and . What part of Austin? That's my old home town! My 1st 914 ride was in 71 on a rainy nite. My Buddy scared the ever loving baJesus out of me. I'd never been in anything sportier than a Chevelle at the time. We have about 4 other members in Austin.

What is your firewall bushing setup?
That is where most of the slop can be removed.
There are also some good cable shifters that might be your ultimate solution.

thank you sir...

I am in Circle C, and I am a Harris Hill member.

As for my firewall bushing--this is a 550 replica, so the firewall is just a hole, and the shift rod passes through one of those heim connectors bolted to the center tunnel (can't seem to post image here)...

Where did you buy the bushing and who makes it?

I'm in South Austin as well. Please do share some photos of your car.

The shifter should work well with enough support and some tight bushings.

Just curious on the manufacturer of the cup I have some, if it's shot PM me.

Mine was tight ,bought it a long time ago from Pelican.
Your shift rod in the 550 would be fairly short I'am thinking but if you get the right (tight ) ball cup you will still need some sort of intermediate support for the shift rod,I really think the one from Chris @ Tangerine Racing would work for you .

If you are talking about this cylindrical bushing, that snaps on the end of the ball then slides into the shift coupling:



It is supposed to slide in and out as you shift.
It should not be so 'tight' that it does not move.

Basically the grease fills the gap so that it will not move too much laterally.

Wow, what a great forum community.

The bushing came from QE auto parts and was at least advertised as original porsche. If this is supposed to move within the rod head, it's probably the right thing.

As for the bushing at the firewall, it is substituted with the following heim joint, and this joint is nice and tight and solid.



This photo leads to another question--I had a super high-quality Lovejoy u-joint machined to accept 2 set screws, pictured. But the shafts are smooth bore, and although the u-joint fits snugly, I am wondering if I need some indent on the shafts. This is also, unfortunately, the adjustment point for the length and rotation of the shaft. Ideas?

Pics of Car...


Type IV power and 901 Transmission (in younger days, it's a bit more faded now):

Dimple the rod so the tapered end of the set screw seats in the rod. Jwest (member vendor) offers a cheap solution to the one time use tapered screw. Bolt with a tapered end and a jam nut.

Beautiful car. Must scoot with the t-4 and the HP to weight ratio.

Very nice 550!

What manufacturer makes this particular car? Any more photos of the mechanicals?

Sweet. Could be a Beck?

It's a Vintage...Becks typically use the 4-bolt wheels, while Greg at Vintage is pretty insistent on the more historically accurate wide 5s. Also my car is independent rear suspension and nearly all Becks are swing arm.

Welcome from another semi Austinite. I live up in Georgetown, but work in south Austin. Yes, I do spend almost 3 hours a day in the car. That's what books on MP3 are for.

Purty looking 550!

Gary

Hard to tell but if you are still experiencing too much play start close to the shifter, even a small amount of play near the shifter amplifies the issue

Kevin nailed it,you could dimple for a standard set screw with a lick of locktite,for adjustment you could do it in several places ,this could be done when you have found the sweet spot.
Is that rose joint running on that angle all the time?,you need to get the whole thing on a straighter plan if possible,without seeing the setup I may be wrong
Have you replaced the guide bush for the rod in the shifter rear console,some replace with a metal one as the plastic stock one is loose in the hole.
That is a stunning car,one of the best I have seen, more pics would go down well.

More pics




Type IV with 96x80 pistons and AMC heads and not leaking too much oil




Independent rear: