Ok, as the title says... I am searching for caliper options with the use of stock rotors. I don't care/need a parking brake.

My biggest concern is finding a caliper that will bolt on with minimal effort.

I want something I can go to a local auto parts store and be able to buy.

Now I know the purists will be out in droves wanting to club me in the head for this, but the more parts on this car I can exchange with parts that are easy to get/find is better for me.


Thanks
Zach

What are you trying to accomplish? Are you changing the fronts?

It depends on what you put up front. Your brake system is a well engineered set up. There are several options that will just bolt up, but you don't want the rears locking first. You should do some searchers here first or talk to Eric Shea at PMB to see what is best for you.

Front are stock right now. I have been waiting to hear back from Bruce the the pedal guy. He said he is going to have a 4 lug billet hub in the works like brad use to sell.

I have a set of volvo 4 piston calipers I would like to run upfront until this new hub option comes out.

If any one knows anyone who made a hub to accept a willwood rotor hat, I would be very interested in that up front.

Also not opposed to putting in a brake bias adjuster.

i vaguely remember someone used volvo calipers up front and bmw 320i calipers in the rear. I can't for the life of me find it. Anyone remember this car?

Zach - I was just talking about this with another member this last Thursday. You want to install Base Boxster calipers front/rear and order Rebel Racings adapters. This gives you a modern 4 piston (both axles) calipers with cheap vented rotor replacement (also both axles) and better braking than you'll get with nearly any other combo. I'd install a bias adjuster but if you're not tracking its probably not necessary. Done.

Tony

I would love the boxster step up, but I am not in a position to $$$ buy all that right now. When tax return time comes next year I can go crazy, till then I need something for right now. That's why I am not into spending $400 on the stock calipers just to toss em out next year.

A fellow teener named Trekkor used a set of vw fox calipers. The good thing about them is they are cheap, and they are a floating so they will self center.

I tried to get a hold of him, but I guess he doesn't frequent around here much anymore so no luck. I think he used the same fox caliper on all 4 corners and controlled the bias by running cheap pads in the rear and porterfield R4's up front.

You can put "early" front calipers on the rear.

They work just fine, bolt & go.

That is great info, so that means the 320i bolt on no problem in the rear. Good stuff stugray, thanks.

I pulled the the trigger on the fox calipers. They were so cheap I couldnt help myself. I'm going to put them on all 4 corners and see how it does.

Try to PM him through the pelican parts BBS, he still lurks there.

Just curious...what happened? I recall, and appreciated, his posts here a few years ago? Did the assholes get to be too much for him?

Tony

I would venture to say probably so. I stopped coming here for years because of an un-named few. Seems like anyone that thinks outside the box gets the tenth degree. Maybe pelicans BBS is filled with more non purist/open minded people? Who knows?

Sounds risky. Brakes are not the place to be cheaping out.

I'm not opposed to using proven alternative solutions but when bias is based on using good pads up front versus cheap pads in rear and you are bypassing the e-brake entirely, that just seems foolhardy. In the event of a serious accident, you risk some serious liability and hopefully you do not kill or seriously injure someone.

It's not about being a purist. If you want to pimp out your ride that is your choice. When you start cutting corners on safety items you put yourself and others at risk. It is also why several states have become more stringent on things like inspections for antique / classic cars in recent years.

Talk to Eric at PMB, I know he has some 911 rears in aluminum on the way.

While I do believe you'll be fine and this is a bit of an over-reaction - you can't completely discount the premise. I could be completely wrong, absolutely wrong, but I think the same member was highly opposed to the removal of the factory proportioning valve. Again, I could be incorrect...that was some time ago.

In racing, the saying that goes around is, "Money spent on safety, is always well spent money". The brakes certainly fall into that description. I am a big fan of saving your money and doing it correctly the first time around, rather than duplicating your efforts to a common end.

Porsche makes some great brakes...try to hold-off for a set, if you can.

Tony

True enough. You likely will not be killed.

However, should there ever be a serious accident, hope that a competent accident investigator is not assigned. Attorneys for any victims or plaintiff will take you to the cleaners. If they do a thorough discovery you may hear them reading your forum posts in court acknowledging that you went with a questionable solution just to save yourself a few dollars. They will love telling the jury that this was not a working class person trying to keep their truck running to support his livelihood but rather someone rich enough to own a PORSCHE but so unconcerned about the safety of others that he modified the brake system to save himself a few bucks. Your insurance company will tell you that you never disclosed modifications to key safety systems so your policy is void and you are on your own. If you ever sell it and do not clearly disclose the modifications, that liability may follow you. Could be the most costly $300 you ever saved.

lmfao, Get lost bro. Only in 914 Porsche land is this strange logic that it is dangerous to put on larger caliper than stock. They came on the vw fox and the car weights over 1000 lbs more than the 914. Are you afraid the rears will lock before the front? I plan on putting in a bias adjuster in the car to tune the brakes. I also plan on using a empi parking brake line lock. If I was as big a pussy as you and was scare to do anything to my car it would still be a 70hp air cooled turd.

Just trying to save you from misfortune. But based on your reaction and language It sounds like you are just a self indulged a-hole millennial who thinks only if himself.

Actually, based on your language and response to people trying to help you out I am going to request that the moderators ban you. You clearly have all the answers and do not need advice from anyone here.

Ban me lol, for what? Your first responce was noted. You came back again as a legal know it all and added nothing to the tech and advancement of the conversation.

I dont have all the anwsers, thats why I was here posting the question. I'm sorry your feelings got hurt but I think I hit the nail on the head.

"70hp air cooled turd."

And you just stepped in it!

No longer confused or mistaken...this is the same person.

Tony

Sorry, I know that was a low blow. I was just trying to make a point.

Using this logic, we should be held liable for ANY upgrade to the car that differs from stock.
Couldn't a lawyer make a case that by upgrading from FI to carbs, I added 5.2 hp, and therefore my car is "more dangerous" on the street than a "stock" vehicle?
Oh and I have non-stock wheels and tires too, couldn't a lawyer make the case that "prepping the car for higher performance" makes me a hazard on the street?

Oh, and those 5 point seatbelts are a CLEAR indication that I intend to drive the car like a maniac and in a dangerous manner.

Get over it no-one is going to sue you because you modified your 40 year old street car OR EVERY SINGLE ONE OF us "could be held liable" for "something not stock".

You must have really had your feelings hurt once on this topic....

A similar argument has been made about my 2013 Subaru BRZ.
It has modern traction control, but it may be disabled by the driver with a push button on the console.
Couldn't I be "held liable" if I had an accident when the traction control system was disabled? I mean I DID make the car "less safe"....

100% agree. Well now it looks that my thread has been completely derailed from just searching for first or secondhand knowledge of calipers that will fit the rear. It always seems like a risky proposition here to pose questions for ideas outside the norm. I want to apologize if I offended anyone for some of my language. Waking up and reading how the sky would fall and people would die if I use fox calipers put me in a bit of a mood.

I'll give a slightly more detailed explanation of my modification:
I installed front "early" brake calipers on the rear of my car.
So now I have the same diameter of pistons on the front & rear and I installed a 19mm MC.
I left the stock Rear Brake Proportioning valve installed.
I run KFP Gold pads on the front (aggressive compound) and I run porterfields on the rear (less aggressive).

I have tested the car extensively on the track and I do not have a proportioning problem. I have been in extreme braking situations and not detected a tendency for the car to swap ends (yet).

I purchased a brake prop valve for the rear circuit, but have yet to install it.

That is awesome sounds like a good setup. Did you do anything for a parking brake? I have looked at 2 options for the parking brake, and I think I like the empi option better...
the empi is the black line lock...
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Feeling hurt on this topic? Only to the extent that I have a good friend, a member of the Amphicar club, who was seriously injured when brakes failed. The restoration shop who worked on his car used some bodged parts from another vehicle because he thought original spec parts were two expensive. He did not consider that perhaps a car that goes in the water might have different requirements. Legal stuff was settled out of court but 'it was significant as was my friends recovery time.

I have no problem if people disagree or think the opinions of myself or others are extreme or completely wrong. My objection here is when in a public forum, where people are generally trying to help one another out, that a small minority think it is acceptable to respond with obscenities and slurs toward other members that have no place outside of the trailer parks where they might live. People can certainly feel free to disagree without flaunting a complete lack of class or decency.

Noted and moving on, thanks.

Not so quick: I recalled your worry wort ways yesterday (suspected) and it was confirmed this morning. All the jargon used in the old brake-bias post. If you and a 914 had a baby...you should call it Pat Garvey. A disastrous combination (toxic) of safety + originality.

Tony

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Mr. Wilder was a classic piece of character...had some radical thoughts too.

Tony

Upgraded fronts with stock fronts in the back suite most cars..but generally overkill.

Lmao, Tony your great.

Line locks parking brakes are a bad idea, no parking brake period is silly unless a full race car or drive around with wheel chocks.
I slipping clutch could render putting the car in gear useless, a broken shift linkage.

How are you going to keep the car from moving when you need to do some troubleshooting in a parking lot or side of the road with the motor running?

I knew That I would use that rear trunk for something, hauling wheel chocks! lol jk

I called renegade about a year ago to discuss the 6 speed set up. Their solution was to run boxster brakes in the rear with the boxster hubs so their $1200 modified boxster axles would fit. I asked them about the parking brake and they told me they also use a line lock.

Is the situation I'm in ideal? Nope, but it's what it is. Putting in the line lock or hydraulic parking brake and brake bias adjuster was something I was going to have to do anyways. Are these fox brakes going to be on the car for good? Nope, just for now. it make no sense to me to buy $400 calipers just to throw them out in a year. I feel a lot better tossing $60 in the trash.

I have 6k worth of LS and boxster stuff sitting on a shelf waiting to be installed. So I just need to make the car usable for a couple months like this to shake all the bugs out before I star putting in the good stuff.

What are you guys with giant reds doing for a parking brake? Is these something out there I don'd know about? I saw where guys are using the 911 drum style brake on the trailing arms. Is there a place to sent the arms to to have them modified? Is anyone making a custom bracket to run a mechanical wilwood caliper along side of a hydraulic one? What other options exist?

Is there a place to sent the arms to to have them modified? Is anyone making a custom bracket to run a mechanical wilwood caliper along side of a hydraulic one? What other options exist?
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Talk to Chris at Tangerinre Racing. I think he sells parts or may do this. Patrick Motorsports may do this as well.

I will give them a ring after the holiday weekend, and see what they say.

years ago I saw on a kit car board guys putting motorycle discs in inboard mounting them off the output flanges and mounting mechanical caliper anyone ever do something like this?

Another thing I just thought of was maybe using electric parking brake calipers like lots of late model euro cars have?

I know that those calipers are obdii can bus module controled, but I am sure with enought know how they could be an option.

Here's an option that looks interesting.....Wilwood Spot Caliper....
http://www.wilwood.com/calipers/CaliperLis...ame=Mech%20Spot

Fact:

Line lock will not work as a parking brake. As the fluid cools down after parking, it will contract and the brake will loosen. Thus allowing the car to roll...

Ask me how I know...

Recognizing the risk of resurrecting the butt-hurt...my race-only '74 has a leaking left rear caliper; looks like it's coming from the seal under the handbrake lever. I'm reading here that the front calipers from the '71 will bolt onto the rear? I've got a Tilton manual bias valve, no concerns there.

Same brake lines, bolt right on?

Same pads as '74 fronts, or different? Would really suck to shelf the 2-3 sets of Pagid rear I have...though I'm sure someone here could use them.

And it would be nice to toss the manual setup procedure back there.

Thanks.

I am not sure that the stock rear lines will connect to the front calipers if used in the rear.
I made my own rigid brake lines for that purpose (shudder.... Made MY OWN brake lines - OMG! NO! because I am not a professional)
I could look when I get home at the geometry and take some pics.

+1. Anything other than 914 ,you will be associated witch craft
Cracker is correct, save your money for a modern Porsche system. To add to Cracker's comment, you can make your car go fast, but you will also need to stop just as efficiently.

If your not using the stock system, tangerine racing - adapters makes it easy to adapt 911 E brakes to stock 914 trailing arms. then use the rear caliper of your choosing.

In my case, it's a vintage racer so I need to retain some level of production status.

I swapped some emails with Chris, he suggested either rebuilding the stock rear calipers and gutting the e-brake and adjuster parts (I don't have a handbrake installed), or installing early front calipers back here.

Knowing if the existing stainless-braided rear brake lines would attach to early front calipers, and if the existing late pads will fit into the early calipers would be a plus for this decision.

Any instructions around on how to gut the calipers?

Thanks.

In the rear the flex lines connect from the body to the trailing arm.
They then transition back to rigid lines before going into the caliper.
That is why I was able to make my own lines to put the front calipers on the rear.
Belmetric has all the parts.

In the interest of ease of install (and no desire to buy new rear pads since I have spare extra sets) I'm going to rebuild mine and gut the adjusters.

I'd like the option to return it to stock (for future "core" purposes, just in case). Safe to assume that all I really need to do is remove the adjuster mechanisms from inside the back of the pistons and leave off the lever/guide pins? Seems like that to me after watching PMB's video.

And the answer is....


Yes. And I left the small adjuster gear out too, and put them all in baggies for future use. Everything else needs to be installed, including the lever and guide pin, otherwise the threaded shaft with the o-ring seal is not retained and will pop outward. Yes, I did, dammit.

So: disassemble, remove adjustment mechanisms from the inside of the pistons and put those in a baggie, reinstall everything else (you can leave out the small inner gears if you want).

No more manually adjusting rear brakes. Of course, no more parking brake either...

Yep, that was my first solution about 25+ years ago.

Didn't work then, and does not work now.

(P.S. I am still trying to figure out my parking brake solution)