Well, I determined the source of the "clunk" I'm experiencing when turning, particularly from a stop or when driving slowly. Looks like my trailing arm bushing must be bad at the suspension ear as I could see it moving as I easily wiggled the wheel in and out at the back .

I've not done this little chore before, but I've seen lots of threads here of people struggling a bit. I do have another set of trailing arms I had powder coated, so I hopefully get them to a press and in correctly.

Any recommendations for a straightforward, stock suspension replacement?

I'll start searching and collecting install threads...

Elephant racing rubber bushings

It is a bit tricky, but not that hard.

Go for it. I think my white car needs them too.

Just installed a set of the Elephant Racing rubber bushings this past week.
$325 for the set
Used their "tools" along with a pipe clamp that I already had.
Had to add some extensions to the pipe clamp for it to work effectively.
Lots of hand soap (you cannot use too much) and some help (extra hands are good) from the wife.

Not an easy DIY job, but well worth saving some money for the installation of these.

Click to view attachment

A bit pricey too but only once.

Thanks Fellas. I'm on the Elephant Racing site getting ready to bite the bullet. I'll end up having to buy two sets eventually, but I'll go with the one set I need now. Thanks also for the tips. Now to order and figure out when I have time to

I have Rebel Racing products delrin bushings.

Ok, got the trailing arms out and I got the passenger's side trailing arm generally installed before calling it quits tonight. Here's what was left of the bushing on the suspension ear side. The hole in the suspension ear may have taken a slight beating, but it doesn't look too out of round.

Click to view attachment

Getting the Elephant racing bushings and pivot shaft positioned correctly in powder coated trailing arms I had from my project car was a bit of a bitch. That process is not fun. I can comment on that in another thread.

QUESTION: do I need to disconnect the half shaft at the tranny on the driver's side to remove the old trailing arm or get the new trailing arm on? If so, I think I also need to remove the starter in order to get the half shaft in the right position. I can do it, but if it's not necessary that would be one less thing to remove/reinstall. I did disconnect the half shaft when I removed/installed the passenger side trailing arm, and it got me thinking that maybe I didn't need to.

I need to get a lift...

The answer to this question is: no, you do not need to disconnect the half shaft. It's not hard to angle the whole trailing arm, get the stub axle into the hub, and maneuver the trailing arm into position.

All better. And I've learned something new. Yay.

Nice, that's on my LONG list of to-dos in the next year!