I am in the market for a new alternator for my 2.7l. I currently have a SEV Marchal. It is not working. The fan housing that I have is from a 2.2e. Any recommendations of an alternator that I can install? I know very little about alternators on 6 cylinders. Any advice is much appreciated. Cheap and reliable is a major plus.

Have the one you own rebuilt by someone who knows what they're doing. Not just fixed, but reconditioned. New brushes and such. Saves $

double post?

I am planning on getting mine rebuilt so I can keep it as a spare however I was wanting to get another.

A rebuild should take a couple days. In the meantime, look for a spare to store away.

Agree.
Just got my back from being reconditioned/rebuilt/restored.
Looks like brand new.
Guy replaced diodes, brushes, bearings, seals, etc.

Who does the rebuilds?

Also- can the alternator just be plugged into the relay board just like with the /4 engines? Or am I simplifying things too much.

Our local battery shop does our starters and alternators. 2 day turnaround, $100-125 on average.

The early 911 alternators were externally regulated, just like the 914-4 alternator. You can use a stock relay board and the regulator mounted there, but you have to have the correct engine harness to hook up the regulator.

A better way is to buy a 911 SC or Carrera alternator. It has an internal regulator, and it is a direct bolt on to your engine. The only wires you need are the big heavy red one from the starter, and the blue one that hooks up to the alternator light.

And yes, you can change a six alternator with the engine in the car. There is an article on this site that will explain how.

If you're really going to get another one, I got one from RetroAutomotiveProducts
that's been fine for the last 5 years. They are 1 day shipping away from me so I
may be biased. They have a store on Ebay but also a real phone number.

RETRO-AUTOMOTIVE-PRODUCTS

Though the internally regulated alternators may be simpler, I do like the ease of swapping out the externally regulated ones. Often, it is the regulator that goes south, so much easier to swap on the board rather than fighting to take the alternator out on a -6.

Many of the guys over on the bird say the externally regulated alternators have less issues than the internally regulated.
They figure the heat of the engine cooks the regulator.

Most auto electric shops do just as good a job as the factory, you have to know your poop, but there's not much to them.
I've replaced bearings in the T1 alternators, often that's all that is wrong with them. I replaced the bearings in the alternator of my bug.

if you have an early fan housing the internal reg. alt will have pulley alignment issues. the later fan housings are machihed deeper to allow for the longer length..

I've been running an internally regulated alternator since 86 with no problems. I dumped the relay board and wired everything direct. My first motor back in 86 was a 2.7 with webers. After it died in 2000, due to pulled head studs, I swapped it with a 3.2. Unless your a concours weenie, I would dump the relay / regulator board. Besides the regulator the board powers the fuel pump, heater fan and rear window defogger.

Very important!
Not a minor misalignment, it's close to 3/4"

Does the same apply to a 2.4? My alt is shot and I've been putting off pulling the motor. I've also heard about the internal vs external regulator. Is it the same for a 2.4?

X2,
I had a bad time with the alt on my 2.7...housing on the new one I bought wasn't right at all...best to get the one you have refurbed....

So is there an internal regulator alt that wont have the alignment issues with the early fan housings?

I would also post this question on the bird 911 technical forum.

Good info to know...posting here to keep tabs on the topic

The 2.0 to early non internal reg 2.7 housings are the same depth. The later 2.7 internal reg housing are different for sure. I came across this a few years ago while doing my 77 2.7 rebuild. The late 2.7 are the same as the 3.0 housings but different part #'s. The 3.2 housings are different from the 3.0 units. I've had all of the above in hand so I know they're all different.

I went with the external reg version just to simplify things. Also if the reg craps out its an easy swap in a 914. If you have an internal reg unit and you have a problem you'll have to remove the induction, fan shroud, alt/fan housing to remove the alt.. In a 911 it's not bad as you're looking right at the fan but the 914 firewall is your enemy.

Most alt repair shops can rebuild your alt but bring your voltage reg with you so they can test that too.. IIRC my early non reg alt was around $150 to have rebuilt.

Now whatever you do take caution removing the alt from the housing. The mag housings will crack if you're not careful . The best way to remove the alt is to place some heavy cardboard on the floor, use two 4x4 pieces of wood (place so the housing lands on most of the wood but clears the alt) then from about a foot or two drop it on the 4x4. the alt should pop right out. It doesn't sound nice and I know I said be careful but this is the way to do it. Check the Pelican site this method is what they recommend for the alt/fan housing separation.

Are there any INTERNALLY regulated alternators that are the correct size for the early housings?

not that I know of;

here is some more details about housing and mods

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=50841&hl=

Any thoughts on this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/911-914-Porsche-NE...%3D172318030083

To illustrate Jeff's point
bosch 914/6 next to paris-rhone (used 1984-89)

Click to view attachment

many years ago i found a source for internal regulators that I used on the SEV-Marchal units when I rebuilt them. I just opened one up but there is no information on it.

Click to view attachment