gotta adjust the valves before next race, never done a TIV before, just a 911

so is the procedure any different for a split duration cam?

What pushrods are you using?

when one valve is open all the way, the one on the other side of the motor, that shares that cam lobe will be all the way closed.... adjust it.. move on to the next, repeat 8 times

Do 'em by my method, and you'll NEVER have to ask a valve adjustment question again! See last week's thread. If you can't find it, ask me again. The Cap'n

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Apr 16 2005, 04:35 PM)

Do 'em by my method, and you'll NEVER have to ask a valve adjustment question again!

I found that thread yesterday, have been looking for the cliff's notes version

Actually I saved it as a reference, just didn't know if the split duration changed anything.

thanks...

The procedure and clearances are the same, but what clearance will depend on the pushrods, HD aluminum or steel. Usually people use steel with the split cams because they're easier to cut to length for the geometry, but not always.

QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Apr 16 2005, 02:21 PM)

What pushrods are you using?

whatever jake put in there,

pretty sure they are steel shiny things.

I'll do just about anything on my car but build the motor up. Its one thing to run a hot motor on the street and wring it out once in a while, but put her on the track at 7500 rpm for a couple hours and see what happens.

Since you have CrMo pushrods, adjust the valves to zero clearance, all the way around. The pushrods should be able to spin pretty easily if you can get a finger on them. I can just squeeze my pinky past the pushrod retainer wire to do the spin test, and it is tough to tell if the rod is spinning or your finger is slipping because of oil. There should be no discernible play in the rocker arms though.
Starting with #1 TDC adjust both valves, rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees backwards, adjust cyl #2, rotate 180 deg, adjust cyl#3, rotate 180, adjust #4. I put the car in gear and chock one wheel so I can rotate the engine with the other wheel. Working alone it means I have to get up and down a few times, no big deal.
Piece of cake. You deserve a beer when you're done.

ever adjust from the top? My header primaries are really in the way on 3&4, I have no tin in the way.

QUOTE (synthesisdv @ Apr 17 2005, 12:11 PM)

ever adjust from the top? My header primaries are really in the way on 3&4, I have no tin in the way.

I never did it from the top but I don't see why you can't do it that way. You don't need a feeler gauge, just a 13mm and a very short screwdriver. The hardest part is making sure you don't get the valves too tight.