Looking for a refurbished AAR valve. Can send a core.

Will consider buying one that's not been refurbished but known to be functioning perfectly.

Please send me a PM if you have one to sell.

Thanks!

Mike in Munich

Mike, if the heating element is still working, you can clean the coke from a clogged AAR by doing the following:

1. Fill the AAR with solvent and plug the ports.

2. Apply 12 volts and let it heat up good.

3. Remove the power source and drain the AAR.

4. Repeat the process until you can verify the plunger is moving in one direction when powered up, and the opposite direction when power is removed.

It's advantageous to shoot compressed air through the ports to help to remove the debris.

I've done this to several AARs

Some VW bus shops might have NOS. I found one a while ago. Bus cafe?

Thanks for the suggestion Mark!

I did flush it with WD40 for a full day, but did not try applying power to it, so will do that now as well. I'm confident it'll work because the thing did work, or at least went from stuck closed to open, but then apparently got stuck closed again.

Thanks again!

M.i.M.

Use something better than WD-40. It's not much better than water.

Will this work:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idle-Air-Control-V...I94&vxp=mtr



Niklas

I'm not considering anything but what belongs in the car. Thanks.

Ok, thanks.

Any suggestions?

M.i.M.

A penetrating lubricant.

I soak mine in Kerosene for a week. then flush them with Amziol MP.

Frees them right up.

Thanks! Are you spelling that correctly...Amziol? I'm finding Amsoil MP, but not Amziol.

So what exactly is this stuff anyway? I'm in Germany and would be looking for something comparable. I'm seeing "metal protector" but also "synthetic oil"...

Thanks again,

Mike in Munich

Hi Mark, thanks again for this suggestion. I ordered and received Gunnex 2000 over here in Germany, which is a gun oil (ballast oil?) that seems like could be the best product available for this purpose.

I was expecting the main body of the thing to fill up with the stuff, but apparently essentially nothing is getting down into it and I can only squirt low volumes of the stuff into the openings before it bubbles upward due to an apparent lack of access into the main chamber. Is this to be expected?

I didn't hook it (them, as I have 2) up to power but did put them in the freezer, then into the oven, then into the car. One was open, but after a good 8-10 minutes, my idle was still just as high as it was to begin with, almost 2,000, and the thing was apparently not closing at all. Damn!

The other one allowed the car to idle (closing off the vacuum 100% causes the car to stall) but was apparently almost entirely closed, but now that I think about it, it must havee still been warm (duh!) from having been in the oven, albeit at a modest 150 degrees or so F. It wasn't anywhere near too hot to handle, after having been warmed up, the other one was open, as mentioned. I'll test the other one again tomorrow if it may be open after having fully cooled down. I'm not op, and I'm ready to just buy/trade
for a known functional one.

Thanks for you're and support would like to hear more about how much oil I should be able to get into one of these things. Also, I cannot see ANY light coming through the two openings at all.

M.i.M

QUOTE(MikeInMunich @ Sep 21 2016, 01:20 PM)

YES. Depending on how badly clogged-up one is, it may take several sessions to clean one out enough for the plunger to start moving again. Heating it up helps by expanding the metal and [hopefully] allowing the solvent to sneak past the plunger and into the body's interior.


For sure, obtaining a 'new' or 'known functioning' one will get you back in the race quickly ... just suggesting that you don't toss your old one(s) out if the electrical heating element still works.

Again, it make take several sessions depending on the severity of the clog. Apply power after filling and capping off the ports. Feel the body to see if it's getting hot. Let it cook for a while. Next, remove the power and let it cool down (naturally) and see if the drained solvent has removed any of the coked matter. When enough of that matter is gone, the plunger should start moving more freely, and eventually achieve full (open/close) travel.

Another method you might try is to drop the AAR (port end down) into a small diameter metal can (like a soup can) and pour in some solvent. This way you don't have to cap-off the ports.

Just make sure the main body (electrical portion) is not immersed in the solvent. Repeat the heating/cooling process (by applying and removing the power source) until the plunger works itself free. Remember to use some compressed air to help with the purging process.

Thanks a lot Mark! I'll keep at it and see how it goes.

M.i.M.

OK, this is getting pretty frustrating. I've got two of these things and neither is working really properly, although both of them KINDA work...I want one that functions 100% as it should, so...

...once again, does anyone have a good one to sell? I can send a core, if desired.

Thanks,

Mike in Munich

Do you need the L jet of D jet type AAR? I have both. What do you mean by sorta work ? Simple heat activated valve that is open when closed and opens when warm.

Hi Bruce! Hope you're doing well!

D-Jettronic.

Perhaps saving you time, I may have found a good one over here last night.

On the other question...

I've been swapping the two out while keeping one on the workbench on a 12-v battery, letting it heat up and cool down and libricating it (them). So symptoms between the two are a bit mixed up, as I don't remember which one does what, since I'm not writing it down, but what I mean by "sorta working" is that at least one of them doesn't seem to open fully, but must be open somewhat at least, otherwise the car wouldn't idle at all, and that same one, or both, doesn't seem to close fully.

One of the two may be working by now. It's the one on the bench at the moment. I'll be putting it back in in Monday and see how it's going.

Thanks for your interest and support.

M.i.M.

Glad to hear you found a good one. Keep cleaning the old ones and you'll eventually end up with some good spares. They must be really coked-up.