So I need a fuse system for every wire I intend to use,.,( for instance) I run a starter wire to a fuse block or panel and then to the actual starter lug,.

I thought fuses were for hi AMP draws,..?? Thanbks

Your ECU needs to be protected on the positive switched side and the positive Batt side. Any appurtenance that you're adding that requires 12V needs to be fused e.g. after market gages, radiator fans, fan controller, AC, etc. Fuses are sized to the wire size and the wires are sized according to load. I did not share fuses as the OEM setup is antiquated. You'll end up with 6-12 additional fuses depending upon additional circuits required. Hopefully your running a fused 8ga wire from the engine bay to the trunk for your fans.

yes my fans are all well fused ( That I knew about),.. I better get started on all the other fused items...Thanks for the Info..!!!! Frank

ECU wiring for a 97 Maxima. Suby likely pretty close being from the same design era & obd2. Basically any component that can short out gets it's own fuse, otherwise figuring out what failed would be a nightmare.
Fused distribution blocks cheap on ebay.
I essentially recreated the factory setup.
I also added an 8ga from battery to a distribution block next to the factory fuse panel, for the 2 fans and added electronics.
I also added about a dozen wires to the dash for VSS, water temp, fan triggers, a/c button, CEL, etc.

Click to view attachment
red = battery hot. orange = switched. yellow = start signal.

That's an excellent point Chris. I always just thought of it as "fuse anything you don't want to burn up". Never thought about it from a diagnostic stand point.

Thank You for that Diagram gives me some way to go,..

any idea on how to pull that cluch assy and adapter plate, should it be clutch first then plate or can I pull the adapter plate and the clutch should come with it .??? Thanks Frank

Clutch is behind the Pressure Plate which is bolted to the Flywheel which is bolted to the Crank which is not attached to the Adapter. The Adapter might slide over the Flywheel though it will be a tight fit.

Ah Yes,..ok Thank You !!

[quote name='Chris914n6' date='Sep 11 2017, 06:26 PM' post='2526733']
ECU wiring for a 97 Maxima. Suby likely pretty close being from the same design era & obd2. Basically any component that can short out gets it's own fuse, otherwise figuring out what failed would be a nightmare.
Fused distribution blocks cheap on ebay.
I essentially recreated the factory setup.
I also added an 8ga from battery to a distribution block next to the factory fuse panel, for the 2 fans and added electronics.
I also added about a dozen wires to the dash for VSS, water temp, fan triggers, a/c button, CEL, etc.

I didn't have to recreate anything, just adapt it to a few existing systems on the car. I pulled my stock wiring altogether and am using most of the harness from my SVX including the instrument cluster and the steering column similar to what Andyrew did. I intend to drive the car across the country and am basically a wimp, wanting to have as few issues as possible that I'm not familiar with. I'm not nearly as adventurous as most of the folks around here!

whats the best fuse panel to use ,..looking at classic-technologies.com version,.runs about 250.00..

That's not what you want. Stock fuse box works fine for chassis circuits, might need a good cleaning though.
All modern cars have a separate fuse box for drivetrain circuits. All you need is a couple distribution boxes (<$10 on ebay) and a few relays & sockets(<$5 each). I put all mine on a piece of scrap ABS to keep it neat. Other have screwed theirs straight to the sheetmetal.

Start with blueprinting the Suby engine harness, then you will know how many circuits you need to accommodate and if it's hot or ignition switch switched. There is a 911 male plug that fits into the 914 female plug at the stock engine bay fuse/relay panel that you can tap into for hot & switched & most of the gauges.

I am using a Nissan gauge cluster so I added wires for CEL and have lots of extra indicator lights so I added the fans, plus the VSS return to the ecu.

this valve is a subaru air aux valve,.what does it do , Click to view attachment Thanks Frank

The Aux Air valve is the cold start fast idle valve. Powered from an 'Ignition on wire', the other wire can go to ground. A Bi-metal strip heats up to turn it off, and the idle slows to the normal 600 rpm idle. I've heard it's similar to the old Porsche CIS valve but being water cooled myself, I have no clue as to if that's true or not.

You can't run without it using the stock ECU if that's what you're wondering . It provides a lot more air (unmetered) at startup. Otherwise the engine is really hard to start when cold. You can move it somewhere else if it's causing issues with your intake flip. Just need to get different sized hoses.

Ahh...Thanks Chris...that's exactly my issue,..but not anymore..cool...

Being that my 3.3 has no distributor and if all my mark's are aligned on sprockets with the case and piston is top dead center,..is there such a thing as 180 Deg.( out ) or is that only for a distributed engine.

No.that piece will only attach one way between your crank and fly wheel. It's a round piece of aluminum about 3" diameter.

LOL,..what Iam asking is a timing question,if all my marks are lined up on the front sprockets and case of my Subaru 3.3 and my # 1 piston is at TDC can I still be 180 Deg. out I need to change my lower cam seals and I need to be sure things are lined up correctly,

No. Be sure to rotate the engine with the plugs removed to see if it spins freely and to be sure you aren't off on your marks. That is a "0" clearance engine and the valves will contact the pistons if your off.

To get to the lower cam seals you have to remove the timing belt pulleys. They only come off and go on one way. Just pick the old seals out and replace them. No need to disassemble the engine in any way. While you have the timing belt off do your main seal on the crank behind the pulley. That is the most common leak point. Mine leaked only when running which was a PITA.

The only way to your timing would be off would be if you reinstall the timing belt incorrectly. It's a non interference engine but still not good to run with the belt installed incorrectly. The factory manual shows how to get it aligned, or you can look in my build thread.

Got it,..Thank You..!!

Can I remove my 92 EGR system all together,.even if I drive in a colder winter climate ?? and have the stk ECU?? Thanks

I think this intake flip will work so far,I just need vacume lines hooked up and water lines aswell does anyone see any issue's I may still have or a better way to do this,.?? Thanks FrankClick to view attachment

I removed the hard vacuum lines and replaced them with soft lines, but if you got it to work with the hard lines go for it.

You may not get enough tension on the alternator belt unless you use the pulley to the left of the crank pulley. It has an adjuster on it. I used a Miata belt. 37.5 or something like that.

If you look at ThePaintedMan's thread you will see how we both had to slightly rotate the iris valve because it was hitting the coolant pipe. Just had to enlarge the hole a bit.

i thought eg33 was non interference?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/...ommon-problems/

jim

It's non interference from all that I've studied but I'd still not want to lose a belt at speed - I'd think you'd bend up some parts.

Yes,..I did rotate the iris valve, my next thing is should I delete my EGR system,..Iam the reverse of you,being that Iam in Tucson, I will drive in winter and park in the summer,.

Will this inlet / outlet system work ok it runs from my up front rad. through a 3/4 " steel line to a 2.25 " engine inlet and back to a 3/4 " return line.
Click to view attachment

will this fuse panel solve all my electicial requirements for the suby upgrade I still intend to use the 914 chassis panel for the usual needs..Fuel pump and starter but the other suby ECU hook ups should run thought this panel correct,..???Click to view attachment Thanks Frank

I'd Shit can that old relay board if I were you. You'll need one for your Alternator, 1 for your radiator fans, 1 for your ECU, 1 for your starter solenoid, 1 for your fuel pump and a few extra for later add ons. Looks like you have enough relays. What are the amp ratings on those relays?

35 AMPs ea,...But Iam not sure if I could go larger

I want to use original fuse panel so I can tie into fuel pump and starter from chassis harness,..I have no experience in wiring so for now I just want it hooked to get it running then I can change thigs as needed.

First, I mistakingly said you need a relay for your alternator. You don't. Relays enable you to run smaller wires to switch or activate an item that draws a heavy amp load, i.e. fans, starters, or fuel pumps, etc. And are usually place near a larger energy source to supply those items just mentioned. You need to run a 12 or 14 ga wire up front thru the tunnel for your radiator fans. You currently have 2 large red wires that run through the tunnel from the battery. One goes to the steering column and the other to position #10 on your fuse panel. Both of these are unfused and it's a damned good idea to fuse them back at the battery. The Amp ratings on your new fuse board are plenty. What size wires are those on that panel? They may be large enough that you won't need to run an additional line through the tunnel.
EDIT: Or send me a link to where you purchased the board so I can check it out.

I found it at first on youtube,..looking for info on how to wire a panel and then I found that panel.under automotive waterproof fuse panels.

W/O a link to detrmine what size wires you have I'll guess yes. Based upon the assumption that there are 5 relay sockets and 10 fuse sockets and the relays are 40amp then surely 5 of those circuits would have at least 14ga or 12ga wires coming from them. You really need to know such things as the amp draw of your fans, distance from fans to power source, etc. The fans that I have on this SBC build draw 3.8 amps each so almost 8 amps. I would imagine some of the older fans off a Cadillac or similar might pull 6 amps or more. I wouldn't run anything smaller than 12 ga if your just shooting from the hip.

I spoke with the guy who built my harness,..I just need to run 8 gauge from front to the battery,My fan and Alt. is fused and relayed,just got to make the connection's

I have the KEP,Fly wheel for my conversion,BUT the presure plate bolts that were with the kit are loose when you thread them in,.SO I called them they sent new bolts and they also wiggle a little bit, is this normal for PP bolts they sent bolts and lock washers ??? TIA Frank

Lock washers are normal. They don't need to be really tight. Check the specs but probably 16-20 lbs ft. Good call on 8ga. You can never have to much available. Can you do an amp draw on those fans to check the demand?

76-914,. the bolts wiggle when I screw them in half way, they did supply lock washers Iam just nervous about those bolts, why do they fit loose like that is my concern,Iam sure they will torque ok but still,..and I would do a test on the AMP draw if I new how,.I guess hook them up and then test,.???

When I do an amp test I use an in line fuse between the +battery and in this case the + on the fan. Remove the fuse from the fuse holder then insert one lead from your test probe into each female spade fitting in the fuse holder. You need to set your multi meter to the "DC" amp setting which in my case means leaving the red lead on the common and moving the black lead to the AMP outlet on the multi meter.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Ahh Sweet, thanks I will ck that this weekend,...FM

Does the ECU control the fans? If so, you may need 3 relays if that schematic posted a few pages back is correct. I'm not familiar with the Subaru electrical, but it looks like you need a relay for the ECCS, three relays for your fans, one relay for your fuel pump, and I still love the idea of using one relay for the starter solenoid. This would relieve strain from the 914 ignition switch.

Yes, the ECU has fan controllers in it. Low speed and high speed. You would need 3 relays to control it, or you could just combine low and high. If I remember right, in a 2 fan scenario low speed turns one fan on, high speed kicks them both on.

High speed also is invoked when the AC circuit is activated. The moral is if for some reason your ECU thinks your AC is on, it will power the high speed circuit. And well you will be wondering why the fans are running.

Yes, you could use the AC wire as a switched source to power the fans manually if you wanted to.

I'll post pic's of my fan harness,But it is relayed and fused its ready to go,..I just gotta get them hooked up,..

this is my radiator fan relay set up,I just need to make some grouns I will run 2 ea 10 or 12" fans..Click to view attachment

I've got a set of the OEM 3 wire Subaru fans if you want them. They're too wide unless you mount them for a floor exhaust. That being said they are quite, powerful and yours for the cost of shipping.

Well,..Thank You for the offer !!! my Radiator set up measures out to be 11" tall and 25 " wide pitched to exhaust thru the hood,.??,Ill post a pic ASAP. Thanks Frank

This is my set upClick to view attachment