Fans setup to be pushers, flip them around and you'll have much better luck. Hard to push air through objects, it works much better creating low pressure behind the object and drawing it through.

If you need a physical example try pushing a rope. You will spend an eternity trying and get anywhere besides creating a big pile on the ground. If you pull it, very easy to get it where and how you want it to go.

That's a nice radiator. You should have no problems with cooling a FG33. Looks like its a front to back double pass. I would change the fans to be pullers like 914forme said.

On the EZ30 you can also use it to bump up the rpm if you have low idle issues. The ground wire for the power steering pump will bump up your rpm as well.

Thanks,..Iam hoping to flip my fans over this weekend,get my engine in place and start to wire it up,..plus ,get my rad system completed, I will mount the pressure can and the overflow bottle in the front trunk area,only problem is my bleeder valve is on the bottom of this radiator so not sure if I can burb it as I need to with that design. ??

To burp it right you need to add a bleeder at a high point.

Or break a hose clamp loose to bleed which is messy and dangerous to your pets health so don't leave it pooled on the ground. You could get a head start on it by pre-filling the radiator. BTW, I measured those fans and they're too wide; each 13"W.

vacuum bleed the system is the only way to get it the first time. Used to do this with all the ricer crap that came through the shop. Even with the bleeders the Civics where horrendous for not getting all the air out. Started to vacuum bleed the systems, and problem went away.

They are pretty cheap and worth it in the long run

Thanks 76-914,.appreciate the effort.

914forme, I found a inline radiator splice that has a presure cap on it was going to try and fill the system from the outlet side,run engine and burb with the presure cap,.Ill try and capture a picture of it dodges use them but they are made of plastic...

I'd use this as it has space to catch air...
Water temp Gauge Sensor Adaptor


with one of these from a HD/Lowes...



Pretty much the radiator bleeding setup of my first water cooled 914.

Or install a brake bleeder valve so you can use a wrench instead of your hand to bleed off the air from the hot coolant...

Ahh thats a good Idea Thanks

I've got Schroeder valve in mine.

Looks to me like the radiator already has a bung in the top left corner. You might be able to add a Schroeder valve there.
Click to view attachment

You can also use a VW Deathstar and make the system self bleeding.

Click to view attachment

The larger connector goes to the inlet side of hte pump using a Tee fitting. The top taps from the pressure side of the engine with a smaller Tee. Put it high, and it will create a self bleeding system, pretty simple. And it has a fitting for coolant level monitoring so, you wire it up and you'll know when you need to add more coolant to make up for the air you sucked out of the system.

You can do the same idea in Aluminum and other materials also.

914forme,..is that the VW beetle tank..??

and BigKat yes good catch didnt even look at that ,but yes I can now switch those 2 around and have a bleeder on top...Thanks Frank

Beatle, Jeta, Golf, EOS, maybe even crossed into the Audi lines. The Deathstars where used for lots of years over many many models. Can be sourced cheaply from pick and pulls. If overheated though they are junk, replace them. You can tell if no longer a sphere find another one.

I would think the out bound line is the highest point to fill the system right,I intend to do it this way ???Click to view attachment

914forme,..is there a bracket that goes with that ???

Yes Pick and pull is your best bet. Some have the mount flange in plastic just bolts to the car. Some have a metal cage to Keep it in place. Majority of 1990s to 2010 VWs have them.

If using the VW death start or similar coolant tank, you make it the highest point. Then you have a smaller line tap into the highest point on the cooling system. A larger line goes to the inlet side of the pump using a Tee. bam you have a fill point, a bleeder system, and majority of your worries are over.

Of course you can still have pockets of air that might exists, so you could still need bleeders at high points. Top of Rad for example. That is why I now vacuum bleed all my systems, negative pressure helps remove all air from a system. Especially when it can only draw coolant back into the void.

spent about 4 hrs trying to install my engine and cradel ( Ian Cradle) kinda of a disappointment,first stk exhaust does not clear like he said it would,and now the tranny ends are to wide apart,..Should have listen to ChrisH. So best course of action ,NOT sure yet really stalled my progress for sure...Click to view attachment

That is why I built my own. And well because I wanted to do the installation at least 20 times.

It is so nice to see an engine in the car for the first time

yes,..Thanks my problem is I cant weld,dont have a shop or a lift,or the tools..Oh yea a little lite on brain power too,..LOL Ill find a way to bring thos ends togather

Now for the exhaust can I have a spacer made, it needs to drop about 3/4 of a Inch

Outfront makes 2 different headers for the EG33. One set that exits to the front of the engine and another that exits to the rear. This is for rear or mid engine buggys.
If you used the front exits the header would be pointed forward to the front of the car. Then you could fab up a smaller pipe and muffler around the mount you have pictured.
You shot yourself in the foot by selling those small car mounts think you would have been way better of with them.

Looking at the picture of the cradle. It is supposed to be on the topside of your tranny ears. Looks to me if it is sitting up at the mounts. It doesn't look that off to me? As will when it is up higher. Maybe I am seeing it all wrong too. Sorry to see your having trouble there. I've got his cradle as well. Haven't gotten everything mounted up yet

That sounds about right, Stephen. 20 times is par for the course.

That sounds about right, Stephen. 20 times is par for the course.

Isn't Ians cradle designed to be used with the Subie transmission as well? Not to mention a 4cyl or the EZ30 style 6 instead of the EG33... I know mods can be made and this is one that's gonna need some work.

Iam pretty sure Ian site said EG33 Iam sure I can get the ends pulled together,Its the damn exhaust set-up that really screws me at this point.could I use a spacer on the exhaust manifold to drop them a bit I need about 3/4 of and inch.

The Coldwater is fine for every Subaru engine except the EG33. There are two problems with it that would be pretty hard to correct. That's why mine is hanging on the wall of my garage.

1. The exhaust. Unless you want to get some headers custom made to clear it's not going to work.

2. The engine is too far forward, nearly touching the firewall. You'll have a hell of a time plumbing it that way.

Renegade Hybrids has a cradle for a 901 setup but I agree with Bob, you should consider the smallcar mount attached to either an early engine mount bar or something like that. Take a look at the way amenson did his. You could drill a couple of holes and bolt it to the mount bar, then take it somewhere to get it professionally welded.

Don't give up Frank! This is a normal part of the process.

Chris H. Yea Thanks,just aggravated !!
Jrust ,I honestly dont know if they are suppose to mount first and then the tranny is installed.
BigKat83 : I didnt sell the small car parts,they sent me a piece that didn NOT clear my oil filter,so they said to use a smaller( 4 Cyl subaru ) filter but it didnt work either,..

Now what if I modify the EG33 engine mounts I could possible gain 1 and a quarter inches,if I get rid of the thick black isolator part and use a smaller polyurathane bushing ,..???

I need the cradle to sit correctly before I can truely know if moding the engine mounts would work to make my exhaust clear So I gotta get that tranny mounted correctly first..

will this approach work for pulling the ends together,...maybe slot the ends if it comes to that ??Click to view attachment

if you are trying to narrow the mounting ears of a tube framed cradle, only way to do it correctly is cut it and reweld.

if you're looking to torque or bend those 1.5" I seriously doubt it will move that much; it also won't be a symmetrical alignment.

yea,..I thought so aswell,I was just trying anything I could do,.at home to try and resolve,.I didnt know how springie that tubing could be...Thanks..

Jmitro,..what if I tention those tubes and then heat them up alittle do you think that (might) bring them in a little bit,.???? Thanks

You can do that. I'd use heat sticks if you can get some. Otherwise heat just until it gets an ashy looking dull red in color. Do not get it cherry red or it will lose it's temper and become annealed. This is best seen in low light levels.

76-914,..I have never heard of heat sticks,.ill ck them out.. Thanks

I am sure they are supposed to attach direct to the tranny mount. Above the tranny ears. For the suby tranny you have to get Hangars that drop down to the lower tranny mounts on the suby trans.

Hopefully there is someone who has a 901 using the cradle out there. I found a picture from Ray's with his ez30 & suby trans

Frank, perhaps I can offer my welding skills. I'm just east of you in Benson. If we can get good dimensions, i can cut and reweld for you as long as it's not stainless.

Shoot me a PM if interested.

Gerard

JRust is correct, the proper mounting position is to have the the cradle on top of the 901 transmission ears.

I would caution against trying to bend the tube frame. I have Ian's first gen cradle and am beta testing his second revision and a recurring issue I see is high stresses at the welds. Forcing a bend there isn't going to help anything.

does that mean I have to worry about his welds cracking???

Jrust ,you were correct,I wanted to make double sure,.If I had a mounting problem I did change the cradle ears to on top of the tranny ears and it pitched enough to fit and mount Exhaust ,plus the exhaust pipes are bent just enough to run under the cross bar,..Man,What a GREAT day today was,...Thanks !!!! Sure glad I checked ..!! Click to view attachment Frank

Plus, My Apologies to Ian,..!!!!!

Check your clearance closely. The engine will lift up when accelerating and go down when decelerating. Your cutting a Fat Hog in the Ass now. Shouldn’t be too much longer.

nice progress

if you have a chance, can you post a few pics from directly under the exhaust manifolds so we can see what kind of clearance you have? and some from sides too?

note that it is best to use what you have initially, as you can always address individual areas later on.

Sure Jim NP. Tomorrow

Iam using 911 mounts should I let them drop thru or can I mount them high like this.I would use a rubber bushing and that large washer if I can install mount high like that,??Click to view attachment