Until you get it on the ground and under weight you won't really know if low works. On the EG the stock pan hangs low, as does the stock exhaust manifolds.

So my suggestion would be bolt it up loose and see what you get on the ground.

IF to low for your comfort you might have to go higher. Just remember to put the larger washer up top, just incase the mount fails the large washer will hit the top of the mount, and keep the engine cradle from dragging the ground.

Thanks 914forme,..I actually doubled the large washer,1 top side and 1 for the bottom,..I have the car sitting on car ramps,with cradle mounted and so the suspension is being compressed now,I let that sit till next weekend,I need to run wires,finish the rad plumbing,.get Fuel hooked ETC... Thanks Frank

You can measure it as it sits just a bit of simple math.

Take the heights of the ramps front and back as they are different. And measure the bottom of the donuts. Then move around and start looking at what is bellow the donuts, and subtract the ramp heights and you have close to the street height for all these points.

This should give you a semi accurate guess of what will be going on once off the ramps.

And hopefully you have the clearance you are looking for. And then we could get into a discussion about stance, proper suspension geometry, and other little issues.

BTW, once you get this running ditch the KYBs - they absolutely suck. I ran them back when I was a teenager and could not afford better. But that was a long time ago and well I since learned what a good set of shocks can do.

Keep up the great work, your making some awesome progress here.

From your pic of the rear it looks like you may have enough clearance to run your pipes up and over that last horizontal piece of the cradle. With more pics of the different angles we may see something different but congrats on the new fit - progress is always good!

IIRC, I used 5.5" as min ground clearance which was the distance from ground to the bottom of those plastic air flaps.

914forme...What shocks would U recommend

Bilsteins or Konis for shocks. Bilsteins are probably all-around better, Konis have the adjustability (which most won't use).

I use the 911 sport mounts flipped up with washers to get a bit more ground clearance on my lowered car without any issues.

is it safe to switch cable locations thru the tunnel I want the throttle cable to come out near shift rod,.?? ThanksClick to view attachment

i'd say sure BUT that is a parking brake cable conduit i think.

and...

The other tubes with small wires coming out are for the heater boxes and I don'kt thin they'll line up very neatly with where the throttle cable should do. They also likely have too aggressive a bend radius to fit the threaded portion of the throttle cable through.

No Jim its off a bit the rod is bent to hell,but may work .Iam really thinking of going with a cable system..

thanks Rnellums,. I forgot about the heater boxes..

I really would rethink staying with the stock transmission if that's the case.

It seems to me like staying stock is adding a lot of complexity and weakness to your drivetrain.

Also, there does exist a cable-shifter Subaru transmission. I haven't seen it installed in a 914 yet, but the newer (2010+) legacy models were available with a 6MT that is cable.shifted and is exactly the same.size as the 5mt according to my Subaru transmission guy. Unfortunately the final drive isn't much better than the 5mt, so still no cruising gear, but something to consider.

Okay this has been bugging me, and it is me, stuff like this bugs me.

In this picture where the arrow points is this due the angle of the picture or is it off? Not saying Ian stuff is off, as the stuff I had of his was top notch. And fit with in tolerances that I expeceted

Click to view attachment

Also if I remember correctly the stock EG Exhaust Manifolds are that they dump very close to the tubes. On Ian's cradle there are two tubes in that area that triangulate the joint.

Can you get around that yes, but not with out a bit of welding. Small Car makes flanges for header to build it your self. Ouffront sells headers or used too for the EG in a mid engine configuration. Outfront stuff fits much better, Chris H. has them in his build thread.

Click to view attachment

Outfront Motorsports(714) 994-5222 very easy to deal with over the phone. Their Header Page can be found here.

Small car does an excellent job also, I use their stuff all the time.

Answer your question you asked me.

Street - minor track usage Bilsteins. If you go wild on the rear spring rate it will require the Bilsteins be revolved.

Koni - Auto-X Race and then Street.

I autocross for years on Bilsteins, they will work.

To be honest, about anything is better than the KYBs Boge, Bilstein, Koni, Fox, Penske, I would slap a set of Autozone specials onto the car before I would use the KYBs, lol

The reasoning is the way KYBs function. The valve systems is supposed to adjust to bumps and increase the dampening after repeated bumps. Interesting concept, but the test track must have been butter smooth with a couple of repeated bumps. On the street what happens is the car moves about, every turn, bump, transition, even you just moving your butt in the seat. It all causes these valves to start increasing damping as it was meant to. Issue is that they never seem to reset back to base line, so over a period of time, they actually become almost solid. Yeah they still move a bit, yet if used in the thigh master poor Susan Sommers would have had thighs bigger than Arnold in his Mister Atlas days. It just does not work in reality as it was proposed to work in concept.

Koni, and Bilsteins can be sent out for rebuilding if you find a pair very cheap.

As of now, I run Bilsteins on my 914-6 it is a street car, that could be auto-crossed or tracked if I wanted to. I run Koni's on my 914EG project which I prefer to autocross , and track, and it gets driven on the street. Mainly driven on the street to get to the events.

IIRC, Ross tried using a 901 trans early on and finally switched over so he speaks from experience. If you want a Hi Way cruiser use a Subaru trans out of a Forester. It has 3:90's vs 4:11's.

914forme,...when I first fit the cradle nothing lined up and the tranny ears were off to the outside by 1.5 inches,So I used threaded rod to bring in the ears,...Then Jrust mentioned I was fitting it wrong,..cradle ears were suppose to be on top of the 901 ears,since I refitted the cradle, the cradle ears are now 1.5 inches to far in...So now I need to spread them open to fit,..No instruction's on how to fit the cradle caused me to guess,..Guessed wrong,as usual,..!!! Fits fine and clears the stk exhaust also, !!

76-914,..I may change in the future I have been looking at this car since 2014 it needs to get on the ground and run, I can always upgrade later...Thanks tho, Frank

We all make mistakes. Keep moving forward. You will be driveng soon.

if you decide to go with suby trans, i have these. i agree, projects can drag on

I hope to get the rad system hooked up this weekend,using this Moroso canister,does the canister feed line go to the inlet side or the outlet side. ?? my Tee fitting fits the smaller return line ,not the larger inlet line. Thanks FrankClick to view attachment

Click to view attachment

this site mentioned in the past may be helpful?
http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling...seSplicers.html
jim

The bottom opening goes on the suction side/inlet side.

The best place to hook up the bottom line coming off of your coolant tank is at the water pump. There is a 5/8 line there that you can tee in to. You might want to put the canister in the engine bay so it's at the highest point possible.

Ah,.ok,..Thanks Chris,..and 76-914..I didn't think about the suction factor.

Agree with Chris engine compartment. You can run a line back from the top of the rad, into the puck tank, and complete the system.

sweet,..Rad system,Fuel system this weekend,run wires next weekend,clutch and throttle cables,by end of month I would hope to start trouble shooting why it doesn't run,..LOL Thanks Frank

Holy cow yeah that cradle is off. Any chance something got bent in transit? I know Ian uses a jig so it shouldn't be that far off. Not sure what happened bud. Sorry your having such issues with it. You have any luck getting ahold of him about it?

Jrust,...page 12 post # 233 shows me pulling these 2 ears together, with a threaded rod because I installed the cradle ears at the bottom of the tranny ears then I belive U said nope they go on the top of the tranny ears So in doing that everything fit,..

Now I must spread the cradle ears to fit the tranny ears, which I shall be doing this weekend...FM

Rent a portapower, and you can push it back into place.

Sorry thats what i get for not keeping up on the posts. Sorry bud. Sound like you are getting there though. Wouldn't be a conversion without a few wrong turns. Screwed up plenty of things on my car.. Hell I installed my 944 turbo calipers on my front struts upside down & backwards(right side on left upside down & vice versa). Still worked but Eric at PMB had a good laugh at my expense on that one . Sometimes we just have to laugh at ourselves

Been following this build, small car makes header that should work for your set up and I would def ditch the 901. I was on the fence like you were. But after all the research it just seems like the most practical trans for the job.

How do you pull the connectors on this ECU Click to view attachment Thanks Frank

Those yellow tabs or tangs are pushed down then carefully twist a wide blade screwdriver between the plug and its receptacle to separate the molex plug from the ECU. The fit is tighter than socks on a rooster, especially after several years of sitting.

it sure is,..thats why I had to ask,. I cant afford to break any plastic connectors !!! Thanks FM

I think I'am going to run my harness from Passenger side ( under seat or on the back wall ) and drill so it comes out right on top of the engine shelf ,and below the battery tray all my main connectors are on that side anyway,..???

Ok,..Iam considering 2 places to mount the ECU and harness, 1. near the engine bay fuse panel and then run the harness where the trunk torsion bars go which iam sure there could be a moisture issue Click to view attachment

and the second place is behind back pad or even under the seat passenger seat.Click to view attachment which is a possible overheating issue I would run the harness alond the top of the engine shelf just below battery tray ??

Definitely inside, Under the seat sounds good.

Definitely inside, Under the seat sounds good.

If you are going to go under the seat. You might want to use the dimple in the firewall, right in back of the seat, near the floor. It will exit into the engine bay, under the engine shelf. Then you can always make a hole in the engine shelf for wires that need to go on top. Whatever works best for you.

Yea,..dry is always best when it comes to electronic's,..should I wire a small computer type fan for cooling.

No. It's good. In the donor car mine was between the carpet and the floorboard. Couldn't have been cool there!

I hope I fixed the last of my NLA,parts would anyone know if this repair would still work I used 1/8 " copper tubing set with JB weld good to 550 deg F. its for a under the intake solenoid Click to view attachment

Iam not sure what the black pipe thats circled in blue,is for,?? also any issue with using the engines fuel regulator,ChrisH 's build he was going to use a aftermarket regulator,But I didnt know why,..??? Click to view attachment Thanks Frank

egr related?

You can use the stock regulator. The SVX guys recommended an aftermarket adjustable one to raise the pressure a bit (to 42 lbs) in order to keep the engine from stalling when the clutch is depressed (all SVX's were automatic) since there is no "load" on it when the clutch is engaged. I tried a couple of aftermarket ones but they leaked, then I quickly went back to stock. Turns out I didn't really need it.

The black pipe is part of the crankcase ventilation system. The top hose connects to the PCV valve on the underside of the intake manifold, you need another one on the bottom pipe end to connect to your air intake (the black plastic snorkel thing that brings air in and attaches to the throttle body). Since you flipped the intake you will probably have to get at least one straight hose and run it up from the crankcase vent to the air intake.

Oh Thank You,.. all that I now need to do is install intake,hook up wires and fuel, and gauges

Thanks jim,..yea, I still need to cancel EGR related connections,plug them Etc

Oh,...Chris...How did u finally set-up your Altenator system..??? Thanks