The alternator is in the spot where the A/C compressor used to be. I used a Miata drive belt if I recall correctly. I'll check the size when I get a chance.

Several ways to do the alternator. Easy if you do not want A/C is to put the alternator over there. It can also go where the power steering pump is. That requires a bit of fabrication. It can be as nice or as crude as you want. Nothing wrong with crude if it is of sound design.

It can also be mounted in its stock location and you just have to build spacers for the manifold. I would do this in the center section as your dealing with round ports. And it only really has air to move at that point. Fuel injectors are down in the lower section. And I would keep them there to keep them close to the intake valves. Gas does not like to stay in small droplets for very long. Of course velocity and other factors will help keep it suspended, but all the same, it will want to go back and form larger droplets. It also likes to cling to surfaces.

Enjoy the process Chris is the guy that took my ideas and made the reality beyond the mockup stage.

Hi Chris,..Iam trying to figure out where you used the turnbuckle to help secure the Alternator Click to view attachment thanks

what would be a good source for a strong axel set-up,.I want to start sizing those up soon as I can,..?? Thanks !! Frank

Frank,

Sorry I did not see your post. I attached the turn buckle to the REAR bolt hole (in the picture below I circled the front one). I enlarged the hole a bit so that I could push a 12mm bolt through it. It is threaded I believe. Then I attached it to a bolt on the intake manifold. You will find one that lines up pretty well.

Click to view attachment

What inside and outside flanges are you using, that will determine the route you go.

All 901 flanges I guess,..I need beefy axels,..for my beloved 3.3

Ahh Sweet,..Chris Thank You !!

Not much you can do here with stock parts. You might be able to find a modified VW T-1 CV with chromemoly Cages and other "mods"

The 944 joint is probably the easiest solution.

Next set up is 108mm, this gets you into the 930 CV joints and if you make enough HP to break one of the modified units, well then you're making serious HP and or torque.

The easiest way to the latter is flange adapters. And order new CVs and have the axles made up. You might be able to get the proper length in pre-made lengths.

Are there any venders that I can order the parts from,..?? I know Renegade Hbyd's has a set for 600.00 but U have to order and wait 6 weeks..

Patrick Motorsports

CVs can come from all sorts of places.

Cut your 901 axels to length then send them to Dutchman Axel. They can cut the 29 tooth broach for the Subaru end. Not many people offer this service because the 29 tooth broach is an oddball size. Deutchman Axel 503-257-6604.

Also, a set of 3 flanges in the Pelican 911 Used parts forums 3 of them for $150

Finding the outside adapters or stub axles might want to check with Bruce, or post a WTB AD

Kent he is using a 901 trans, be so much easier if it was an MT5. Just do a custom axle, or Subaru Gears flanges, etc....

sway away might have the axles in stock.

Oh duh! Missed that. Quickly, someone talk him out of that.

A lot of people have done fine with stock 914 axles and CVs @ 230 hp. It's the CVs you have to worry about. Mine were original equipment so the CV cages broke quickly. I would buy new CVs if you stick with stock. Renegade Hybrids has a full setup with adapters and axles with larger CVs. Looks like it's $699. Similar to the Patrick Motorsports setup but it comes with the axles and CVs.

LInk to RH

Oh,..Ok..thats very helpful Thanks to all,..!! Iam sure I will go Subaru trans eventually for now I just want it on the ground and moving,.

Kent, we have tried so many times we have tried.

I get it though. But the swap now is so well documented it is hard to pass up.

For cost comparison:
Hangers for the rear, get a local welding shop to build a set, around here that might be $75.

Trans, from a U-Pull yard it is $100 off Ebay it is $400 and up

Cable shifter, build your own - welding might be required. $110 most of that is good quality push and pull cables. For a built setup, your looking at $400-$600

Hydraulic clutch ~$100 in parts.

Spool to convert to 2 wheel drive free - welding again, to $200

Back Cover Free - $200

Set of resplined access to run the inner Subaru CV and the stock 914 outer. $200

That is between $885 and $2285 this does not include the extras if you decided to start doing the build to handle 400+ HP. Things like LSD and not the drug, 930 CV joints, bigger badder axles, and then other items from the Subaru Gears catalog of bits. I don't want to add up that number.


the 901
Adapter from the engine to trans $$$?
Flywheel ???
clutch ???

All adds up to ???

Run stock CVs you may pop them now and again.

The pros to the 901 costs, he has it, it is free until you start spilling the guts, which makes for a poor unusable 901.

The Pros to the MT5, enjoyment, lack of destruction, and well the proper gearing for the engine.

The cons for the 901, poor gear spacing unless you custom gear it. That adds up quickly in cost. I have one sitting in the shop right now if you wish to discuss the costs of such work. It has about 4K worth of parts without labor to get it set up. And the shifting, oh the shifting to fix that you can have several grand in parts from Tangerine Racing, and JWest engineering. And it still will not be as good as the cobbled together cable shifter and a transmission that is 20+ years of evolution.

Oh man the cost of a built 901 setup is in the $6000 range, why did I add that up

The Cons of the MTS, you need someone with a welder to build the trans hangers or find a set of Ian's since your using his cradle. Having to get the axles splined. Ian used to sell these also. Only real con I see to the MT5 is perceived initial cost and the conversion to a hydraulic clutch. Both are pretty much just a hurdle to get you to 914 conversion paradise.

Ultimately like everything else it is his choice.

Now, look at it this way.
Since I have both of these transmissions sitting in the shop.
Ultimateish 901 vs the Nice MT5
901 has custom gearing a 904 main shaft, an Al Intermediate plate, custom gears all the way out to an H 5 gear set, and a Quaiffe TB LSD in it. I would have preferred a Guard, should have never sold that one. With the Jwest bits, the Tangerine Bits, and still had to do milling for the 914-6 hand throttle. I am looking at over $6K invested in making a 914-6 go. BTW I will be changing out the gearing to make it match better the 914-6 needs. That H 5th and Z 4th are a bit tall for the 914-6. This trans was built originally for a WRX build. Still htings that could be done to make this 901 even better.

The MT5 again my build I have Oh I do not want to know, let's say 6K in it. It might be more it might be less. F'it for the comparison you need to know. Subaru Gears Parts, MT5 from a Legacy GT 3.?? Ring and pinion. An OBX Limited slip, modified with better bolts and washers and completely blueprinted. the Shifter setup, and still need to purchase the push-pull cables. It is $2800 Wow that is not as bad as I thought. F' that crap go MT5! For that number, I went with what is purchasable. So I substituted the OBX for the Subaru Gears TB LSD. I also added the Subaru Gears oil Site glass I forgot about in the above specs. That is presuming you can find an MT5 for $400, but now easy to change the number for comparison. Without the LSD you drop to $1900! Most people would never use the LSD 99.9% of the time. I do not drive like most people

So my plan would be sell your 901 bits and conversion pieces and go MT5.

Stephan, spring for the brass shifter bushings. You won't regret it. The engineer in you will appreciate the close tolerances. I replaced the new plastic ones on the V8 car with these and it made a big difference. https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperC...T_pg2.htm#item4
Hi-Jack over.

LOL,..914forme,..Its not all lost,..I bought the whole set-up for the 914 with the 901 trans,..adapter plate and the 3.3 engine with complete clutch set-up...Etc..this is the quickest way for me and Its still taken over a year to get this far,..!!!

So trying to install this combo gauge to my 3.3 ECU,..But Iam not sure what the Fan symbol means in the gauge,.???


Click to view attachment

Isn’t it obvious... turbo afterburner!

924 / 944 combo gauge, nice.

it is a hamster wheel to let you know when they die.

In reality I do believe it is the brake warning light?

makes sense,..car's a little to heavy for Hamster power..and that wheel is not big enough !!! Lol Thanks

Correct sir.

Great,.. I shall carry on with the wiring,..Whats the worst that can happen burn up my ECU if I wire something wrong, correct.

Yes, that is the worst thing that can happen. Used to tell the electronic students that we will teach them how to put the smoke back into the fried components next year.

And somewhere I have the wiring diagram for the 3.3 ECU, Chris might have one also I'll PM you if I find it.

I have a wire diagram and the smallcar conversion instructions. PM me with your email if you want them.

Yep that is the one I have somewhere

If you purchase the info from Small Car it comes with labels Easy enough to recreate.

I have the smallcar diagram but it’s too big to post.

Finally, something in this cool thread that I can comment on. If you do continue down the 901 route, please, please, please let me help. That $6k price is for lots of goodies I bet you don't need. The CVs, as mentioned, will be a big weak point. The V8 guys break them often enough with the 901. Gearing can be $$$ or not, depending on which gears. You may have the difference of one tooth between say a S and a T gear, and an S is way less expensive and more common than a T ( I haven't actually seen a T, I know they exist). A 904 shaft adds money, as does the gear on it. There may be alternatives in using an F or GA, different R/P. Lots of options and it will depend on what you want in the end. Now, when you want to go to 300HP and the best possible combo, I cannot argue that the M5 is way better and completely suited. For the 901, check on adapters as that is your main cost "just to get it running" and then you can figure out your gears from how you love/hate the stock gears. Saves money, and is like a science experiment. I have some parts I can donate to the cause

WOW,..that is a lot of info,..I will go MT5 somday,.but as I have said,..Iam trying to get it off the jack stands and driving before summer hits Tucson,.I don't work on cars outside once it starts hitting 100 plus,..and that day is coming on fast !!!

Due to my new work location( tired of outside),I wanted to remove the door's but man those pins are in there hard,I've soaking them for 2 weeks now on and off and they just don't want to break free the tops are loose,But the bottom's just don't budge I've been using WD40...Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment This is why I wanted the doors to come off,plus jambs need to be painted.

Your 6 bolts away from your goal. I never pull the door pins. Bolts are so much easier, and you can mark the post, but most of the time the jamb will show you exactly where the hinges once resided.

You need a door hinge pin removal tool. We try not to remove hinges because you have to realign the door when you bolt it back. It’s easy to get close but hard to get exact. It’s very difficult to knock them out with a punch. They really need to be pressed out or use a slide hammer. WD-40 is good for some things but not freeing stuck bolts. Heat works well but around painted areas you want to use a penetrating oil. Still won’t make a difference in the hinge. The pins are a very tight fit.

Just unbolt it from the door jamb ...

Yea that will be the next step,..Top pins loose but the bottoms are tight as ever...I really dont want to fight the realinging of the door by myself but .....Thanks

I put a rag onto of a floor jack and just support one end hold the other, get two bolts in. One up top one in the bottom. Then you can move it around and get it just right, tighten the bolts, then get the other 4 with the door open wide. Just be careful with out the door stays. If it goes to far forward it puts a nice crinkle in the door. is how you feel when it happens.

They also make a door hanger for body shops. It would be easy enough to make one out of wood just for this situation. A few blankets or even steel and some pipe foam, done.

Click to view attachment

Isnt stranded wire like this the correct 8 ga wire used for the fans,Click to view attachment..running 2 ea..?? Thanks

Frank, before you unbolt the hinge drill a 1/8" hole in each hinge. Then when reattaching the hinge's simply stick the smooth end of the 1/8" bits into the drilled holes to re-align the hinges. You can also use this method when removing the lids from either trunk.

As normal Kent comes up with a simple yet flawless way of doing something. That is wisdom from years of doing.

FINE KENT!! Where was this sage advice before I took off MY doors??
Fortunately I've installed and aligned many doors working for Honda but your method makes it easy!

Thank You Kent that is a good idea,..!!

Iam not sure if this will work, But I bought a BMW style ( VDO ) water temp sensor for the rear temp sensor connection,hoping it will work with my 924 combo gauge any chance this will work,..sensor and gauge are diffrant yearsClick to view attachment

Is this 8 GA wire good enough to use for Rad fans I was told there may be too many strands for that type of use ??

Click to view attachment

Normal 8ga wire has 19 strands. I did not spend the time counting your strands,