Well I did then realized that wont work like I thought it would, So the small car mount will now be used,Iam getting a cross member made from the original 914 cross member and then I will get that installed and get everything marked and lined up then have it all welded ,As long as all that works out Ill be ready for the wiring and fuel so I'am hoping to try and start it by labor day weekend ,which would be to good to be true !!

Sounds like a plan

Has anyone ever made a homemade Intake system successfully Click to view attachment

My crude drawing would show 180 deg. silicone tubes from throttle body then in to a cylinder with appropriate vacuume attachments ,and then a cone filter on the end...

How about 180 into the factory plastic box - little fab needed.

Or you could do ABS tubes, kinda generic looking but easy to work with.

Also if it was mine I'd go straight back and not 90 towards the battery.

Yea I tried the 180 with the original intake but it was to hi and I could not close the hatch,if I could run it straight back I would Iam not sure if there is room back there for the filter ..Etc

Yea well actually out of air box I could do 45 Deg,could I do 1 tube to the left and 1 to the right ?? as long as I have the same volume of air should be ok..

I removed the cross brace from my lid with no ill effect. Do you still have the rain tray mounted?

You could possible just save a bit off the stock intake couplers and gain enough to clear.

If it was me I would mark the firewall and move it just a tad with one of these

Sometimes simple is just better, and if you want to take it back to original then it is easy with a bit of and a Easy enough

Or you can spend some time getting a forearm work out with hammer and dolly and slappers etc..

Yes,.But the whole assembly was higher than the mounting bracket on the fire wall/bulk head for the lid so I knew it was way tall

but removing the bracket may be helpful still Thanks

I guess I could do (1) 3 " tube into the top of the factory box,.and just have the tube mandrel bent as needed..huh.

Is that just a breather box? Any sensors in it?

My v6 fits. No pic of it but this is the future replacement and it clears.

I say pop the lid on and see what hits.

Click to view attachment

Yea,..Kent just the breather box I cut the big fat 3 " pipe of the end of it to make it fit as I wanted it to,too keep my axels in line,

and Yes Stephen Iam not against massaging that bulk head a bit,.but if I cut it then I wonder if my back pad and seat would fit correctly...
which I will be looking at all that tomorrow to see how bad it may be or not .

Yes Chris I intend to do that tomorrow,.. Thanks Guys..

I remember ChrisH. saying that his car ran better when he put is Original intake back on,..he had some aftermarket intake system,..so Iam trying to stay as close as possible to the SVX set up.

I remember ChrisH. saying that his car ran better when he put is Original intake back on,..he had some aftermarket intake system,..so Iam trying to stay as close as possible to the SVX set up.

IT would with the stock ECU.

I am going to build a center manifold with 6 equal runners, one large TB off a Shelby Mustang and the runners will have Velocity stacks ends like the current M3/M4 does. And running some form of aftermarket EFI, I only have 3 different ones on the shelf to choose from and I really don't think I like any of them.

The issue with the stock SVX unit is the variable chamber and the running was done for that manifold. If the IRIS system is not functional, it can cause some odd flat spots.

ITBs would work also, but have all the issues of ITBs. But would sound so good and look even better

I made a full custom setup for the bus on the Corvair. Same concept would work on an SVX, but it takes time and trial and error. I the plenum volumes correct, too.

Yes,.I looked at Jenvey's at fox injection they only have a listing for the 3.0,.2600.00 denaro's for the stacks

Yes Dr.Evil,..if I stick with the tube lenth and its 3" diameter with all the vacuum ports it should work even if I did 2 intake tubes into the box as long as I have the air volume...I think it could work out

Another approach, Frank. I used this set up. A silicone elbow and use the existing air temp sensor with it.

Click to view attachment

The only sensor in that black piece is the MAF sensor which attaches to the end. The challenge with the EG33 is it's one of the few intake manifolds that has two air entry points rather than one like damn near every other car. The Rocky Mountain West intake is pretty good but still may not be enough clearance for you. Someone here might be able to fabricate you one. You really just need the rectangular piece.

RMW Intake:

Click to view attachment

And if someone raises his/her hand to make one they could probably sell a few more.

not hard to make but why labor and materials would get in over the cost most here would want to pay. for what looks like a simple box, And show of hands how many 3.3 EG swaps are on here, the pool seems rather shallow to me.

Chris, your is running
Filmont
Mark
the Evil one is uncommitted right now, well he is but it is a bus who would want to do one of them, Oh yeah me, but it is on the long list of cars, not the short list. WRX STI AWD Ghia is on the short list.
Myself which might never get done

I had the same thought about the Subaru swap items: Transhangers and engine mounts are the widest market, but what a few a month if that? Then shifter but zero decibel makes a great setup. Subaru gears has the spools, flanges, rear covers covered, and now a LSD also.

I know there is a Walmart market compared to Subaru gears, Zero decibel, but I just can't bring myself to build crap, let alone sell items I would consider crap that would have my companies name on them.

I would say that maybe there is a market if I would build the engine support, trans support, and make a bolt in package all the way to the drive shafts and cooling, with a plug in harness, and exhaust. Just seems like a lot of work just to see a bunch of parts sit on the shelves.

I am guessing that is why Mark runs so many group buys, as it covers most of the cost of the inthrall run, everything else becomes gravy as it sits and waits for the right 914 person to come around. lower the market potential to just Subaru conversions and things get a bit tighter. And the converters I know in this area just build all their own stuff.

Sorry for the hijack

I like that approach if it fits under the lids of everything. I've seen custom intakes made but none seem to work with the efficiency of the stock intake. It's designed that way with the iris valve to work at lower rpms to eliminate flat spots due to the characteristics of the flat plane crank design. I'm keeping the manifold and the stock setup but adding the upgrades that others have done to make good power with stock reliability since that's the original intent of my build. I like what you've been doing so far and really want to see yours run!

914's are a small market, conversions even smaller. To do well, you need to be able to make a profit on parts and labor.
Our shop doesn't work on any 914's. The 914 guys don't want to spend big money like the 911 guys (me included). It cost the same to chase parts, wrench, metal work and paint a 914 as a 911 but the 911 guys that we cater to don't blink at a $150-200K quote.

I am very glad our 914 suppliers have made the commitment to support our cars but I know it's not easy to do.

Wow you guys really read a lot into that ....I wasn't suggesting there's a huge market for that piece that a business model could be built around. I just said if someone WANTED to make ONE, they might sell A FEW MORE. I wanted one myself and tried to buy the RMW setup when I flipped the manifold but they were out of stock. Now it's not on the site at all so I guess it's NLA.

Yeah I don't even have the throttle bodies anymore so I would not be able to build a set anyway

I never like the dual throttle body anyway Can't even remember what it is for as the IRIS section is not feed by a single side of the TB. Maybe it was the only way to get the volume of air required for the engine with the slopped hood of the SVX. If it was me and I was keeping the stock intake I would build an adapter with a 90 or more degree turn and install a similarly sized single Throttle body off lets say a Ford Mustang, and go one with an easier installation of intake tubing.

Then I would also change out the injectors, MAF, and run a chip in the stock ECU, if I was inclined to go that route.

But I am out not that one also as I am not sure where my intake got to, I had two of them at one point in time.

As a marketing venture it would fail,

Thanks MGP4591, Me to LOL Iam trying to keep the EG33 system intact but keeping that 901 trans is a little bit of a set back when it come to the air intake system,.because I want my axle's to line up,( I know I have some wiggle rm with the axle's but not much)..I may end up cutting the bulkhead just enough for the original duct to work,or splice that area with a silicone tube that can be compressed which then cuts air flow so not sure yet but, I checked RMW,..site I don't think they offer the EG33 intake anymore they don't advertise it,..So I will be calling on Monday...I'am sure If I have all the vacuume points connected with the correct air volume a rigged system could work.,even if I get the duct to fit and work on that side it blocks my dip stick,so I may also flip it like chrisH did,..and said I should...after all his is running !!

It would be nice to have that metal box they have or fabed maybe they will tell me who the vendor was/is,.I could block the side portal and attach to the top and then run it strait back that would work I think..

The metal box is the easy part, it is knowing the final design that makes it hard.

You could do this all in tube.

Two tubes that match to TB, and then one capped on one end, and then running over to where your MAF connects Preferably the same size as your final MAF bore. A Good muffler shop could build it. Then add a couple of bungs for the connections you need to support.

You really don't need a large volume of air after the MAF, you just need it not to be restricted.

That would be the simplest way to achieve your goal, a decent fabricator could do it. Heck you could do it with a bit of time, some spot welds, then take it to a welder and have it welded up. Worse case you might have to JBweld the joint to get it air tight.

You could also build this out of copper or other metal, and solder or braze the joints. In this case both wold produce a sealed joint, and it is not a structural part.

Or you could go hog wild, build the tubes flare the ends to make velocity stacks on them, install them into a box, run a tube out the other side, etc.......

K.I.S. KEEP IT SIMPLE!

How much clearance do you have between the intake and the engine cover? If you've got the room, keep your little black box and make the changes to run a large intake tube over the top to a better location for your MAF... Make the tube big enough to flow the air 180 degrees vs the 90 that it previously made and I think that would work. If space is tight, maybe look into an ovalized pipe to give you extra clearance.

with No rain tray at this point seems like plenty of room, Never thought about the Oval tubing..Thats a good Idea to ck out...Thanks

Well RMW, had good news and bad news the good, I was told they are going to run a batch of boxes. the bad not for another month and has no price as of today..

So I will have one made JIC they change their minds

Why do 180 degrees? It looks like a 90 degree turn straight up could go to a rectangular box plenum/air filter. You could choose a size to match the rectangular filter of your choice. I would slant the bottom of the box to a drain corner and run the verticals beyond the bottom to prevent rain-induced hydro locking.

Warren, he has to have a MAF in line with the intake. So a small box, then a MaF then a filter of some kind.

You could combine all of these into one set of boxes, and drop down to a 90 degrees to the intake.

If I was looking for the fast way out, I would get 2 180 bends in silicone. Drop a radiator return hose spring in each one just to keep it from collapsing, and take the stock box and put it up top. Something like this not sure if the diameter is correct so you would have to measure that.

That is about as simple and inexpensive as it gets, until you feel like building the skills to fab the part, or having some one fab the part for you.

Just looked on EvilBay for SVX Motor or intake, prices on that stuff has sky rocketed. 300% for the engine alone

Why was I looking, I don't need more of them. I was hoping to grab an intake with the TBs to see what I could make. Hell maybe I should just buy another SVX, if it had a 5 or 6 speed manual I would do it in a heart beat .

That's exactly what I intend to do for now at least I can get it started and hopefully it will idle,this engine has never been started so I hope it checks out..Thanks for the Info !!

And yea SVX stuff is getting pricey

I saw one on Craigslist not too far from me for $800. 120k miles and a blown reverse gear. Still drove. I almost went for it but I don’t need another car in the driveway.

Check this out Stephen...

CL Minneapolis

Might be most of what you need to complete your engine.

Yeah, I am not planning on using one, just figured it would give me something to practice my TIG welding on. LOL. And help a guy out, somebody else needs to get an EG swap done. Yes THAT is for me.

If it was'nt for the oil pan this would be set correctly


Click to view attachment

So Here is my problem,..using small car mount I had a cross bar made my engine sits level or very close,But the small car brackets sit right on top of the cross bar,which I guess is good,. but A. it Hits the oil pan (so now it needs modded) but not sure if engine sits to high or not what measurements are needed for everything to line up without stressing any componets....Thanks Frank
Click to view attachment

Can you have a new cross bar fabricated? Sorry, I am not very familiar with water cooled variants. It seems though that with the transaxle set up there isn’t going to be tons of torque at the mount. The original six was a one point motor mount. True some of the quick six mounts for conversions failed using modified crossmemembers. But it looks like you could solve a few problems at the same time if the cross piece allowed you to move the motor forward and maybe bent around the pan.

Sorry, I am getting up to speed slow with the Small Car products.

Yes that's what I am thinking I need to move forward about a inch or 1 1/4 ,..maybe find a large steel pipe and cut it in half and use that radius and then reinforce it

I'd just do a U shaped cross bar. As long as it mounts ridged to either the chassis or engine it's good.

You have that bar dead center of the mount location. IIRC, you can fudge 1.5" in any direction. That is about a 3" circle that your bar hangs from and is centered in. Remove that plate with the 2 small bolts which hold it in place and use a 1/4" plate in it's place. I can take pic's if this doesn't make sense.

That sounds like a great idea. Moving the ends of the cross member forward instead of bending the middle. Also, that looks the forged cross member. I think earlier they used a rectangular section steel tube instead. That might be easier to mess with than the forging.

If you have access to a chop saw, cut the cross bar at 45 deg. on both sides and angle then forward. This should put your bar right across the front of your smallcar mount. You can gusset the 45's and not lose any strength.

You need to move the bar forward BTDT, I still have the mounts in a drawer in the shop. That moves it forward enough for my built to get past the oil pan. I think it is 1.5 inches as Kent implied. I used a set of energy suspension parts.

Details on my first engine cross bar build.

If you pick a different spot for the engine rubber motor mounts you can pus forward even farther.

If you still have issues you will need to move the bar forward by moving the bar, with a bend to get it to the proper spot. You can then bolt the part to your bar, or leave it setup on the bar, then weld a plate to bolt it to. Or in your case do it all in bolts. I keep forgetting you don't have a welder.

Yes,. I intend to cut the bar and push engine ahead a 1 1/2 " and re-fab the cross member then do a permanent weld,.. and it sits at 6" of the ground clearance dead center..thats a plus,.

The crossbar is by far the lowest part of the car. No way would I want the oil pan below that.