I would agree after its all set up as well as possible and its still low I may have to do the outfront oil pan in the future if they still make them..but it sits level now and it is centered So iam not sure I can change it...I would certainly add a piece on to the bar to protect the pan no question,..

I just seen your post Kent yea I could give that a try just have a offset hole in the plate will that cause any vibrations,..I guess I could use a thick rubber gasket to help dampen any vibration,..Thanks..

This Way or That Way,..This stuff makes me Crazy.

So I spoke with the Sway Away axle people and they tell me its no problem to move forward or backward with my axle placement as long as I have the correct axle length, So how much out of perfect alignment can that be 2 inches 3 inches, he said (if I understood him correctly ) out of alignment is ok as long as there is no pressure against the CV's cages that's how they break,.I would think not more than 2 inches to be safe. I sure as hell don't know !! Again I don't want axle issues on the road,..But I need to solve this and get back on track .. Thanks..

Axle alignment is based off the degrees in which the axle can travel. Stock CVs can go to 12 degrees. To go farther out you will need to convert. Bus typically handle 17 degree, 944 25 degree, 930 can go up to 45 degrees. 914CVs are weak, and you can get into trouble fast. The axle is about 22 inches long if I remember correctly, so if you play it safe and say go half the CV maximum angle you could move the CV forward or backward by 2.3 inches rounding down to the nearest tenth of an inch.

So the 1.5 Inches you can push forward in the mount using a straight bar is still well with in the acceptable angle allowed by the CV joint. This would be about 3.9 degrees on the CV.

You also have to remember that the suspension will move up and down adding or reducing the angle.

I really kinda cheated out on this one, tossed the math out the window and just went with the 930 CVs 45 degree angle allows for a huge safety margin.

Thank You, Stephen ....I had NO CLUE on the math but I to would do the 930 set up for piece of mind in any driving situation.I need my engine back as much as I can to clear the cold air intake.So Instead of plates on the forward engine mounts,I can now do it on the tranny mount instead..and get alittle room up front..This back and fourth which way is better,..gives me a headache ..LOL Thanks ..Frank

Frank trust me, I redid my engine mounts 100s of times in my head, before I made the first version, then about 2000 more times before I made the next version. Not going to say it is the last version as, I will most likely change my mind again.

Offer still stands as I have a set of mounts that will push the engine bar forwarder or backward 1.5" they are your if it helps. I am not going back to the -4 mounts as I cut them out. Then you just need an adapter to move the trans ears forward or backward the same amount. Renegade makes an adapter for their V8 conversion. I have never seen the adapter.

930 setup is not a cheap solution BTW. You will have to replace everything from the transmission on out. So flanges on the trans early 70s 911 parts, can get pricey. The hub and stub axle also needs to be changed, to match. CVs Empi makes a set with Chrome Moly cages, not sure if they will hold up to huge amounts of abuse. Empi is not know for making the best CVs in the world. If you want a better quality CV, this place will have what you need.

Frank, aren’t you using the early 911 rear hubs, cv’s, etc.

I would love to check out what your mounts are like are they shown in your build,..


and yes Mepstein,..I intend to,..914forme Iam sure didnt know I have all that stuff didnt get that far in the axle conversation yet...LOL

Just read through this entire thread again. Yes the mounts are shown in my thread.

Easy way like I said way back when is to use 914 to 108mm adapters.

Renegade also makes up a set. "CV JOINTS AND AXLES
The weakest link in the 914 drive line is the CV joint. It can break without any warning and leave you stranded. While the 914 transaxle will withstand as much as 300+ ft. lbs. of torque, the 914 stock axles are only good to about 250 FPT at best. When you finally get accustomed to all that new power, and before you get stranded far from home, consider our complete high performance axle kits for your 914. Included are (4) new high performance CV joints, (4) new boots with retainer rings, (4) custom adapter flanges, (2) powder coated remanufactured axles, new hardware, and even two packets of grease!

$699 HIGH PERFORMANCE AXLE KITS: Good up to 500 hp! Sold per pair. ( picture )"

Stephen - I sold Frank a set of early 911 trans stubs, hub stubs, 5 lug hubs and cv's, so along with a set of sway-away axles, he should be pretty set.

Good to know, well then your good to go carry on.

Will this much of a opening, Flow enough air to keep it at or around the 180 / 200 deg.I intend to cut out large sections of the hood under the grill...Click to view attachment

Looks large enough. Don't cut that front hole too large. Any of those support braces beneath the hood going to be cut out?

Way bigger than it needs to be. Hot exhaust air is only 20% more volume than the incoming air. Plus air rushing over the hood will suck some air thru too.

Easiest way to know is to measure the rad opening (bumper holes) of the car the engine came out of.

My v6 opening is just 7 of the round plugged holes and both horn grilles, outlet is the 2 holes in the floor from the dealer installed a/c. I used a Corrado rad with 2 11" Spal fans back then, when it sprung a leak I installed the Celica/MR-S "performance" rad with stock fans.

My :2cents: don't cut up a perfectly good non-replaceable lid when the wheel wells or truck floor work just fine and keep a sleeper look.

No Sir,.just what ever metal needs to come out, all braces will stay,..

Chris 9146 : my opening is all those holes removed so what 4" tall and 26 " long

I have a large I think its a 3 row Rad. and Ill be using 2 spal 10" fans

$699 HIGH PERFORMANCE AXLE KITS: Good up to 500 hp! Sold per pair.Would these Renegade axle's have the same floating abilities that the sway-away or your turbo CV's axle's have. the 2' margin needed to fit my Air intake is very helpful... Thanks

Can you weld on the original 4 cyl cross member I may want to re-enforce that bar now because the one I had made actually bow's with the full weight of the engine Plus I could use the shift linkage opening ???

I had the open look back when my car was flat black. I liked it and it worked for the hot rod look I had, but when I painted the car I put a stock hood on and never looked back.

V8's need as much cooling as possible. Modern engines not so much.

I understand,But I can get a new hood easier than I could weld up inner fenders,Plus I thought it was said that if you did a trunk floor opening that it got dusty and dirty quickly

Cutting the inner fenders are much easier, cleaner, and reversable than the hood. A nice sharpie, a jigsaw, and a steady hand can do the fenders in an hour. It will stay much cleaner in the trunk this way than either the hood or the floor. Also you could take the time and duct it and the trunk becomes functional for storage once again.

All the pro conversion shops go out the fenders now. Fyi.

If your hood is good and clean then be damn glad and don't cut it. They are very difficult to find without rust starting.



It's your car so do what you feel you want most. If your design calls for a hood exhaust then by all means. Just know the fender exhausts are known to be the best method.

Don't put the grille on the hood.....!

IMHO.

Well my radiators till upwards to go out the hood

No idea on the axle kit, but then the answer is a phone call or e-mail away.

Go out the fenders as others have suggested. And I bounce off the through the hood idea a lot.

Simple math you only need 1.2x the inlet size to the outlet size.

Most spoilers have an oil cooler opening of 1.5 x 19.75 = ~ 30 sq inches. so you would need 36 sq inches total or just 18 square inches on each side. If you are going full GT size with the bumper match, you just double the size for each fender. Fans and ducting on both sides of the radiator make a huge difference here.

I am pondering mounting the fans in the fender well to make the entire system a negative pressure zone behind the radiator. That is all theory at this point

You can not weld to the stock bar.

PORSTI has a great bar build in his thread.

So? When I had my v8 radiator setup it was almost laying flat.. Did just fine for what it is.

Yes 914forme,..Iam trying to do just that and thought I had it worked out until my cross member was bending as my motor was being lowered not by much maybe just 3/4 of a inch but that tells me the bar is not strong enough to hold the engine it wont hold all the road vibrations and ass hauling I intend to do,Right ?? I don't know a thing about metal but it needs to be stronger,.Maybe I could get plate steel cut and then welded..??

Metal comes in various wall thicknesses . You can actually get 1" or 1.5" with a .25 wall. You can also add a gusset to the top to add a bit of stiffness. .25" wall tube will add some weight to your tube section.

I use the Metal Supermarket here in Ohio there is one at 4625 W McDowell Rd #140, Phoenix, AZ 85035 Never had an issue with them here.

Scott could tell you what he used for wall thickness. I know he had an early bar because he got it from me, and he built his own. Part of that is Scott nothing goes unmodified coming out of his shop. And that is a good thing

Thanks for the Info,..I will ck that out !!

Don't put the grille on the hood.....! barf.gif

IMHO.

Aah come on, it cant look that bad,.I thought it was a Fabulous idea, I don't want big holes in my fender wells,Unless I have no other choice.and I thought this would be my other choice

I also have a flat radiator configuration with an EG33. I used to drive this car in Puerto Rico, ambient temp 85 to 93 all year around (is always summer there), and was consistently in the 180F ( I have never seen anything over 185 unless if I change when do the fans should kick in).

The only thing I hate about this configuration, and make me want to go with the cutting the inner fenders route, is that the hot air will flow into the cabin.

Some Pics (still a work in progress):

Click to view attachment
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Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Hmm,..I didn't think about that..its a winter car basically with no A/C,.I will not be driving it in the summer here in Tucson,..But still a good point ,..

914pipe,..how did your eg33 run with that 901 trany you had in there for a while.??? Thanks Frank

The 901 handle the EG33 stock power pretty good but the shifting was killing me. It is so smooth with the WRX trans-axle that you feel like you are in another car. I had the 901 for less than a year when I moved to the WRX.

Amen

Good to know...Thanks !!

I know what your thinking too, 76-914...I know what your think'in

is there much fab and welding work to do the Subaru transmission.

It bolts right on. Just needs a different hanger, shift setup and axles. And a suby clutch.

Ahh yes,..But what about all that Hydraulic clutch reservoir stuff,plus mounting it all that's where I run into problems.

Scotts is the cleanest by far for a conversion build

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...421&st=1100

If you don't want to run the hydraulics for the clutch assembly, keep in mind that some of the Subaru trans (like mine in my 00 Impreza) is cable operated. One of the members here made a lever assembly that worked on the 914 cable and it worked fine. He's gone to the juice system since but at the time I drove it, the cable setup worked fine and was much cheaper.

Compared to what you're dealing with now, the hydraulic clutch is not that tough. I think rnellums has been making the plate you would need for mounting the master cylinder, and we can literally give you the part numbers for the rest of the stuff thats required. Most of us just fed the hydraulic hose right through the existing clutch tube. There are two different clutch types, push and pull. You can use either one.

You'd also need a cable shift setup and to figure out the CVs and axles, and the conversion stuff to change a 4wd trans to 2wd. There is a lot to it, but the 5MT trans is quite a bit better.

I could go either way as long as I dont have to make any
parts .

Easy Frank. For the adapter plate get a piece of 1/4" or 3/16" plate and drill a few holes in it. Remove the pedal assm and change out the 2- 8mm bolts on it to longer ones. Reinstall the pedal assm, bolts on the adp plate you made. Bolt on new reservoir and master cylinder, fish AN-3 Aeroquip hose thru old clutch tube (broken or not) then put the ends onto the AN-3 hose, attach and bleed system. As Chris mentioned, the trans bolts directly to the engine, of course, and you'll need to provide the clutch. All of these parts, dimensions, install instructions and part numbers are given in mine and Chris' thread. Jim Kelly has most of the Suby build threads in his signature. Hydraulic will make you Frolic!

Can you keep the 4 bolt hub,.and still have 911 axle's..

I don’t think so, at least not without some machine shop work. You want 911 cv’s for that engine so that takes a 911 stub axle that probably only fits into a 911 hub. If you have everything apart you can check but I’m pretty sure it’s one or the other

Thanks..I kinda thought so..

How about 911 hubs drilled to the 4 lug pattern, now that's a 1st I bet

What are you going to run on the front. The 911 front hubs are 5 lug only and no drilling them.

I would consider using that adapter from 4 to 5 and see if it could be reversed and only because I like the looks of the 4 lug fuch's,

No different spline count on the stub axles to hubs.

Here is the issue with the car trans bracket. Unless your running a prebuilt hanger, the backs have to be made to fit the location of the engine and transmission setup. the cradles just are not good for this engine.

Axle swaps are well documented, either using Subaru stuff on the inner, or full Porsche. Both solutions have their advantages and disadvantages.

The EG is just a big hunk of engine, with that you you get a great engine that is very robust and will take some serious abuse. But it is also physically larger than the -4 or newer -6s. That alone makes the engine placement much more critical to the build.

Here is a thought you can get Scott to build your car. He has a wait list of cars. I know there is a huge feeling of accomplishment building the car. I get it, but the frustration can be eliminated by writing a check and waiting.