You pay for shipping I'll send you a Sub MT5 Trans, I have a few spares now. You will just need a spool and rear cover, everything is ready to go.

I even have a set of axles I will toss into the deal, cut them or have them resplined. I am not suing them because I plan on doing with my 914.

Do yourself a huge favor and goto the subaru transmission.

Now you tell me.

Any idea what the shipping cost would be to Utah? I'll take you up on that deal... if you have some pics of the serial #s I'd like to see which would have the best ratios (if there's a difference between them) and go from there. Wow... thanks?!

I would go for that deal if it was meant for me,..?? Thanks Frank

It was meant for you but if he's got another to spare, I'd go for it also. I've driven a couple of the Subie conversions with those transmissions - it's really the best way to go!
Sorry to barge in on your deal but I'm just trying to help him clean his garage!

Yes it was meant for you, and yes the 914 crowd can be cheap, but hey paying it forward. PM me with your zip, and I will see what shipping will be for it.

For every one else so quick on the draw, sorry, I have one I want to move out of the shop. The rest, all 2 of them, I will be keeping. One is going into my car the other will be going on my spare EG.

Wow that's a huge donation Steve. GO FOR THAT DEAL FRANK!!!!

Aldo Frank, wait until you get the stuff before you order any clutch parts. The clutch, pressure plate, flywheel all are matched to the trans, not the engine. You don't have any of that since the SVX is automatic. You just have a flex plate which you won't use. You also need longer bolts for bolting the flywheel on. We'll get to that later.

Even tho I saved the thread,..I cant find it now,..

I need to know the company that makes the water line adapter's Jaguar something,..?? Could someone pls remind me ?? Thanks FM

Jags that Run

Ahh Yes,..Thank You Sir..!!! FM

where can I find exhaust flanges,..I need 2 flanges ,..to fit my 911 banana style muffler,..the 2 in 1 out type,..not sure how this will sound,..should I also install,..something before the muffler,..I was just going to run straight pipes into it,.??? FM

Start with FLAPS, after that the internet will steer your search. Consider the flow capabilities of the banana muffler - if you feel it'll be restrictive, you'll want to go bigger to use all of the engines power. Also, that engine will rev to 7k which will flow LOTS of air so take that into consideration too.

meaning I should not use anything before the 911 muffler keep straight pipes...

That will keep your backpressure to a minimum and you can judge the sound quality from there. If the seat of the pants feeling is good for you and it sounds cool, go ahead and keep it. If not, you can go in another direction depending on what the issues are. I've already got plans for my 3.3 in the exhaust dept. and I've still got some figuring to do. The banana might just be what you want and I'd love to hear it when you've got it running!

Yes,..No problem with that,..I will certainly get to ya,...Frank

You will need a different muffler, as there is just no room back there for the banana, once you go Subaru trans. I guess you could highly modify the banana, anything is possible,,

This will give you an idea of how much room you'll have to work with.

Click to view attachment

A small hijack here - Kent, what axles are you using?

Subaru Inside and some combo of outside Porsche CVs. I am sure it is in his build thread.The Discussion starts at post 220.

"Inner CV = FEMALE Subie (2002-2004) which is fine for you because your trans already has stub axles so it's set up for female CVs
Axle = Ians or re-splined 914 axle on one side to accept said Subie CV
Outer = the stock 914 CV....or you could upgrade to 944 if you pop a stock CV or two."

Sometimes asking is faster than research - Thanks!

The stock 914 half shafts that were cut to length and re-splined on the inboard end. IIRC, they're good to 270hp.

Nice - so do you have full travel in the tulip on the Subie side?

Not sure about the question? The output flanges are centered horizontally and vertically with the wheel centers when the car is sitting on the ground. The shafts were cut so that there is about 1/16" gap to slip them on. And that is when both CV's are compressed all the way towards the wheel. It's a tight fit but I haven't ever had one pop out or jump off. There are a few conversions that experienced this dilemma. If that didn't answer the question LMK. Kent

My next quest....is setting up the water system,..I would like to know where do ya get the reducers for the hoses,..I think,. I would keep factory hose and then plumb from my 3/4 " steel line to the factory inlet and outlet hose's correct ??? Thanks, as always,..!!!! Frank

I think that was answered in another recent post somewhere... Jags that run?? Sounds like the site.

Frank,

I would not use 3/4 line to your radiator. That's too small. Since you are planning a 300hp engine I would consider 1" hot and 1.25" cold, which is what Renegade Hybrids uses on its setup for all engines including V8s. I went to 1.25" for both sides on mine and it does take a while to warm up.

Yes, Jags That Run has the adapters. Kinda hard to find where they are. Call them, don't order online.

Hose Splicers

Just remember it HAS TO BE on the list or they will have to make it. That would take forever. You'd only need two with 1" hot and 1.25" cold. You'd have to stretch the cold lines but it's not that hard.

Great Thanks,..!!!,....Well, I had someone install steel line's under the car,..He has a chevy V8,.and his is set up the same way,.. and he said his temps are fine even in the summer,..Ill get a real measurement,..on those line's,..But I do have a large 3 row radiator .??

SS or steel? If steel I would recommend using some anode plugs in your cooling system.

Steel,..he's had them on his for about 6 yrs I think,..how would I install anode plugs,....

P.S.,.Harness may be completed soon,..he started it today...!!

Yeah measure those Frank. Don't think a V8 would do well at all with 3/4 lines. Probably 1" or larger.

Great news on the harness. You're skipping the hardest part. That's a good thing!

Can't remember where I saw them. I lost all of my bookmarks when my laptop took a shit months back. Maybe Jags that Run. They're ips threaded so you'd need a tee to screw them in. Does your friends car have a CI block? If so I'd think steel would be fine. You want t avoid a mix of metals that are so far apart on the Galvanic chart. Al is the more noble of the two metals and with steel tubes you've got enough mass to attract the Al. It will want to draw the Al to the steel and where will it come from? Your radiator or block. How quickly this happens depends upon the amount of energy i.e stray current. If you ran rubber hoses vs. steel I doubt you'd see any anodic reaction.

here are the Rad lines,...and they are 1" lines in and out

Yeah those should be fine. So you just need to look at the link I posted before and get the correct reducers. The engine inlets are 1.5" I think. Measure them to be sure. Don't forget to measure your radiator inlets too. They might be different than the engine since the rad is not stock.

Thanks Chris I will,...

But here is another issue,..Y does these lines stop right at the bracket,..are these lines short ??Click to view attachment

They are shorter than the stock lines only because they are made of stainless steel rather than the plastic composite material the originals are made of, so of course they are not as flexible so the designer had to stop them there. Those are Tangerine Racing lines, and they either come as a 2 piece or 4 piece set. The 4 piece set has another length of stainless lines that run into the engine compartment connected with a small piece of FI hose to the tunnel lines. Mine are just like yours, just the tunnel lines, and I ran high pressure FI hose from there into the engine compartment. You can use 5/16 as a substitute for 8mm. Just make sure it's high pressure hose made for later model engines.


Here's a link to the lines you have:

SS Fuel Lines

They are the best thing out there to replace stock lines with.

yes, I have the 4 piece set,..Thanks,..Ill just secure them a different way,..on the fire wall

Over the holiday weekend I will attempt to fit the engine inplace and set up fuel line's and Rad lines and hope to get the crossbar installed and measured,..So I can get it welded up for perminet install. harness should be finished soon..!!!

would there be a smaller throttle body set up to use on this 3.3 so I don't have to flip intake or cut the trunk ???

The only thing I'd think you could do would be to build a custom intake. I haven't done the measurements taking advantage of moving the engine as absolutely far forward as possible but I'd bet it's been done before to see what the final measurements would be...

No way to do it with the stock intake manifold. You're practically touching the rear firewall with the stock setup too. It has the iris valve and all, very unique to the SVX. Saw a custom one on the internet that was a tube design with a 70mm throttle body but it was built for a plane I think. They were more concerned with safe, reliable power than getting every last bit of performance out of it. Probably lose some horses with that setup.

Flipping the intake is not hard. Wish I'd tried a little harder the first time .

Yes it is easy to flip the stock intake.

I would disagree with the intake manifold. It helps more for the broader torque curve, but a properly tuned manifold will make more peak horsepower. It will just be across a very narrow RPM range. The advantage to IRIS is it broadens the drivability of the engine. Which helps on the street.

The manifold in question is more than likely seen on SDS' web site. The EG33 link is down. It is the same concept as the EJ22 build though, add a few runners. And they built the EG out of Aluminum.

Well, The harness will be on the way soon, a day or two,..he connected to a svx,..and it started ...So I hope mine will do the same ..!! I think I will have all the parts needed to start assembley,..Iam waiting for the spacers so I can flip my intake manifold,..If that dos'nt work out, that will just slow things up a bit , not stop the process ,.Then of course the gauge package...will be next !! right ?? Thanks Frank

Now that I have my harness back Thanks Jeff,..I would like to know how others have installed thier's its bigger that I thought it would be,..and also what is this item that has the bracket attached and where does it mount ??Click to view attachment Thanks Frank

I have more Q's about this upgrade,Click to view attachment 1st what is this line circled in RED,..and what are the other 2 lines circled in green. TIA

Plus It seems these are the fuel lines, but I did'nt expect 3 ,how do I find out which is inbound and return lines Click to view attachment

And last Q for now, How do I hook up this water line,.just run a jumper line ?? Click to view attachment Thanks Very Much !! Frank

Go to the charcoal canister, in green if I remember correctly.

Red Circle, I have forgotten also.

The three in the other picture.

Vent to the tank, goes over to the charcoal canister. which is mounted in he right front corner of the SVX.

Return from EFI Return routes from the pressure regulator back under the manifold, and out the side.

Fuel feed to the engine.

Subaru loved doing all these metal lines under the intake manifold.

Ahh,...Thank You ..!! Frank

How hard is this kinda swap and how costly is it?