Scott? Sean? Ian? I'm transplanting my conversion parts from the 238 to the 350. The 350 has a Milodon cam drive. When installing the harmonic balancer/belt pulley I found the new engine has 1/4" less shaft length which miss-aligns my alternator and w/p belt that 1/4". I know there is a crank gear but I don't think Milodon would require you to install a shorter h/b. I "could" space out the alternator and w/p but may cause interference to the bulkhead. If I do will the h/b be okay mounted 1/4" off the shaft? I'll call Milodon in the morning...

My harmonic balancer:

is this 350 an ls1 engine? or the old chevy small block

troy

"standard" chevy, not LS1

Did the cranks change any years?

sorry after closer i see that its a gear drive conversion.
the crank shaft didnt get shorter. just the gear drive cover is 1/4" deeper from the front of the block. you should still be able to use the harmonic balancer tool to press it back on the crank [dont hammer it on, it will screw up the thust bearing .] it should install back to the right depth on the crank.

if you doubt the installed depth reinstall the balancer on the 283 and measure from the machined surface of time cover to the face of the balancer. it should end up the same.
there are different depth pulleys that gm used for different applications. and shimming might have to be your sollution

yes. many strokes, journal sizes, steel, cast iron, ductile iron. and rear seal config. but the length from front bearing to end of crank front to my recollection has been the same

one more thought .... that gear drives going to be real loud noisey. and right behind your head. have you heard one b4? it sounds almost like a blower.

QUOTE (messix @ Apr 17 2005, 11:46 PM)

sorry after closer i see that its a gear drive conversion. the crank shaft didnt get shorter. just the gear drive cover is 1/4" deeper from the front of the block. you should still be able to use the harmonic balancer tool to press it back on the crank [dont hammer it on, it will screw up the thust bearing .] it should install back to the right depth on the crank. if you doubt the installed depth reinstall the balancer on the 283 and measure from the machined surface of time cover to the face of the balancer. it should end up the same. there are different depth pulleys that gm used for different applications. and shimming might have to be your sollution

Before I measured it, I tried to press it on with the tool but it stopped on the crank that 1/4". I had good leverage too. Are you saying the washer or whatever I am measuring will move back?

I can see 1/4" of shiney metal on the balancer hub when it stops on the 350. The shiney metal is into the timing cover when installed on the 283.

Hi Neo
Take a small screwdriver or caliper and measure the nose of the crank, from the rear at the gear to the tip. I suspect its a solid gear conflict. The SMBC has lots of crank configurations, but I don't think at the front of the timing chain drive is not an issue.
Rule of thumb pre 84 has rope style rear seal, after 84 has one piece seal (factory)
Sorry Neo
I have to agree with mesix on this one, 4 years ago I did a Cam combo in a 76 Vette (no clearance problems), lasted one week and he asked to remove the gears for a double chain, way to noisy, worse then a blower.
Good lick with it
later
Joe

Flex I suspect that Harry the orginal owner of the engine has using a spacer like these on the end of the crankshaft to space out the Harmonic balancer. I think I would remove the timing gear cover and check for a spacer on the crank. When you installed the 6 CYL.H/B did it clear the timing gear cover ok?
Was Harry using a GM inline 6 CYL balancer like you have pictured or something else?

Bob

QUOTE (BIGKAT_83 @ Apr 18 2005, 05:17 AM)

Flex I suspect that Harry the orginal owner of the engine has using a spacer like these on the end of the crankshaft to space out the Harmonic balancer. I think I would remove the timing gear cover and check for a spacer on the crank. When you installed the 6 CYL.H/B did it clear the timing gear cover ok? Was Harry using a GM inline 6 CYL balancer like you have pictured or something else? Bob

He said he used a standard chevy V8 balancer. I actually removed it months ago but didn't think to measure it. He did not need the 6 cyl h/b since he used an electric w/p.

I planned to remove the cover after I talk to Milodon this AM.

QUOTE (JoeSpark @ Apr 18 2005, 02:27 AM)

Hi Neo Take a small screwdriver or caliper and measure the nose of the crank, from the rear at the gear to the tip. I suspect its a solid gear conflict. The SMBC has lots of crank configurations, but I don't think at the front of the timing chain drive is not an issue. Rule of thumb pre 84 has rope style rear seal, after 84 has one piece seal (factory) Sorry Neo I have to agree with mesix on this one, 4 years ago I did a Cam combo in a 76 Vette (no clearance problems), lasted one week and he asked to remove the gears for a double chain, way to noisy, worse then a blower. Good lick with it later Joe

I measure 1 1/16" on the 350 and 1 5/16" on the 283.

I did notice the 350 has a thread for a bolt and I didn't remove one on the 283 (haven't confirmed there is a threaded hole). I think I pounded the h/b on many years ago...

Well, spoke to Milodon and they confirm the crank gear spaces out the h/b 1/4". He said I could shim everything out. Maybe ok, maybe not for clearance...

QUOTE (messix @ Apr 18 2005, 12:02 AM)

one more thought .... that gear drives going to be real loud noisey. and right behind your head. have you heard one b4? it sounds almost like a blower.

I rode in the 914 this engine was in and didn't notice the gear noise above the roar of the engine. He had no engine lid or top...

so what you need is to be able to move the h/b in 1/4" more toward the gear?
you might have to have the h/b machined at the seal end side 1/4". and do bolt it on. the drift keys are known for distorting and letting the h/b walk off the crank.
sorry i didnt respond last night.... and to get my butt to bed.
aslo verify that the time mark on the h/b matches you timing marker at tdc. there are deferent markers for h/b.
good book to buy is gm's performance book at the dealers or grumpys how to hot rod a small block chevy. lots of casting and part ids in these.
Troy

just reread your "shiney metal post
you need to measure the machined surface that the timing cover mounts to, to the front surface of the h/b tha a pulley would mount to. use a staight edge across the h/b and measure to the timing cover to block surface, and compare on both engines.
this might be nothing more than just the oil seal depth is different from one to the other wich is not a big deal. could be a good thing because the seal will ride on a non worn [groved] part of the crank.... less likely to leak.

Troy

QUOTE (messix @ Apr 18 2005, 11:25 AM)

so what you need is to be able to move the h/b in 1/4" more toward the gear? you might have to have the h/b machined at the seal end side 1/4". and do bolt it on. the drift keys are known for distorting and letting the h/b walk off the crank. sorry i didnt respond last night.... and to get my butt to bed. aslo verify that the time mark on the h/b matches you timing marker at tdc. there are deferent markers for h/b. good book to buy is gm's performance book at the dealers or grumpys how to hot rod a small block chevy. lots of casting and part ids in these. Troy

Yeah I had to fix dinner for my family and got lazy afterwards...

I was thinking of the same thing too, machine off the end of the h/b stub hub. I think that would work!

good luck post results and first drive.

and if your worried about 1/4" clearance you better use solid motor mounts and reinforce and brace. v8 will move around.... lots of torque!!!!!!!!

QUOTE (messix @ Apr 18 2005, 12:11 PM)

good luck post results and first drive. and if your worried about 1/4" clearance you better use solid motor mounts and reinforce and brace. v8 will move around.... lots of torque!!!!!!!!

It's already pretty tight for hands to replace the front hoses and belts.

I've got prothane motor mounts and the engine bar is solid mounted. The tranny is solid too.

Will post progress...

Thanks!