OK so lots of work and no more success!

Got McMarks tooth wheel installed and it seems to be putting out a fine signal.

Click to view attachment

But the injectors are not firing.

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Not sure if I am missing something on the settings that tells the injectors when to fire but the data shows all "zeros" so I don't think it is getting a triggering event.

I have injection set to untimed injection which = batch fire but it never fires. Is there something else I have to change in the settings to trigger the injectors?

Click to view attachment

Ordered new Micro Squirt to see if the resistor problem is the cause.

I don't believe that the type 4 is an "odd" fire engine. that is for 5 cylinder and Harleys....etc. I think?

I tried it both ways but still no injector trigger. I have not switched over to using the Micro squirt to control timing yet so I have no idea if this matters to the firing of the injectors.

Odd fire relates to engines who's cyilnders don't fire 180-degrees off. Which means most every engine out there is NOT Odd fire.

Does the RPM gauge rise when cranking? If not switch the Ignition Options -> Ignition Input Capture (from Rising Edge to Falling Edge, or visa versa).

Humm... Just a thought. I was just reading the RMP gauge normally off the coil so I did not have the Tacho output enabled.

Looking at the wire diagram it seems like the VR circuit would like to have that signal. That may explain all of the zeros for the trigger.

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Just did a bit more reading and looks like your suggestion may be right. Manual says this is a pattern of a VR wired incorrectly.
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Tachout shouldn't have anything to do with anything but your gauge.

Beyond frustrated! New controller allowed the engine to start but can't get it to even idle or remotely run.

Anyone have a tune that will allow the damn thing to run?

Need to drink gin and tonic!

I'm surprised your not "knee walking" drunk already.

Progress was made. I have a good solid idle but dies on trying to accelerate!

Time to drink more. Any suggestions on what setting i may have wrong?

The journey continues in THIS THREAD

Now that it is running GET IT DYNO TUNED.

Seriously, you will be chasing your tail for a long time. Let a pro handle it now, and you will be driving your car.

Zach

I will do that after I add the ignition component but I don't know of anyone local that does this.

That's my bitter thread! did not want to discourage people.

Just went through configuring a MicroSquirt brain running MS2E firmware and the trigger offset (Trigger #1 Angle) settings are calculated differently between the two firmwares.

MicroSquirt 3.83 firmware would end up being around 290° as mentioned above.

but...
Mike is running the MS2E firmware and the angle for that is around 60°.

OK so now I am really confused.

I noted Marks comment about the firmware. I noticed that I was not running the latest MicroSquirt Firmware. So I decided to update.

I got a whole bunch of crap that did not seem to work anymore.

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When I made a new project under the new firmware there were a lot less options available for setting things up. Like no programmable on/offs.

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Not sure this is what I want. Any idea if I screwed something up in the firmware update or is this what it is suppose to be?

difference is Microsquirt firmware and MS@Extra firmware.
Both can be run on Microsquirt hardware.

Please list what you are using? unless you did before...

Was running the MS2E firmware V3.0.28 on the Microsquirt controller.

Might be worth it to upgrade to the 3.4.2 version.

here:http://www.msextra.com/downloads

So what I am seeing is that going to the Microsquirt code is a downgrade compared to MS-II?

I am not the best one to answer that, Mark would know better, however for me, I need to use the "EXTRA" code for the sequential injection mode for fuel and spark. The standard code doesn't have that option.

OK so it is clear that the MicroSquirt Code is not what I want to use! Thank goodness for back up files. All switched back to MegaSquirt.

I have been chasing some vacuum leaks for some time. I finally found a major one yesterday. Could not get a photo but on the 2.0 plenum the throttle body is mounted on there are two support tubes that run from the top to the bottom. The weld on both of these tubes is sucking air! Did a quick fix on the top side but I would think it might be leaking on the bottom as well.

Likely explains my idle issues. I think as the engine heated up the break expanded. I checked for leaks countless times but I never thought these would be the source.

Drove for a while after and let the autotune work. Will have to play with the tune a bit more.

I wish there was a 'recommended firmware' page for the MicroSquirt. The MicroSquirt firmware seems to be stagnant at 3.83. I have the impression that MS2E firmware has become the standard. That's what DIYAutotune ships on new MicroSquirt ECUs, and it's what I'm moving everything over to. There's a lot more features.

Cracked and/or rusted plenums seem to be a more and more common issue. I sent one 2.0 plenum out for blasting and powdercoating. Came back with swiss-cheese holes on the bottom. You should pull the entire thing to fix it correctly.

A relatively common issue. I've hit it more than once. Anyone with 2.0 manifolds should check those.

--DD

Drove to work this morning running auto tune on my laptop. Revised a number of values on the VE table. But more consistently seeing target AFR matching real-time AFR.

Getting much lower MAP at idle. But I still think I am missing some power. May be that the bottom part of the engine is tired. Wondering if I have some excessive cam wear and I am just not getting full performance. Will work with McMark on that.

I just don't get the quick throttle response from the engine when going along and have to hit it hard. Don't expect it to spin the tires in 5th gear or anything would like to see a bit more punch.

I am using 100% TPS accel enrichment. Will work a bit more on getting the VE table refined and then dial in the TPS accel a bit more. Not seeing it go lean on accel so I think it is getting enough fuel.

Click to view attachment

Where's the datalog?

Forgot to push the button! Will log on the way home tonight!

Well thanks to some good weather I have drive the car to work for several days using the auto tune.

After correcting the vacuum leaks it looks like i have a pretty good VE table and using James timing table I am getting some really respectable performance and my CHT temps have been good. Still a bit higher than I would like but even on long hill pulls they don’t go above 370.

The car is a blast to drive now and has good enough performace to keep up with my wife’s Boxster for a bit. Of course it is a base engine with auto trans so that is not as outlandish at it would seem.

Overall a long road but I would still recommend it to others. Can’t say it is light years ahead of the stock system but it does provide more tuning options that will allow you to get the most out of your car while having a very reliable system.

Congrats!

I know it was borderline torture for you going down this path, but now you can look back and think of all the things you learned going thru this experience. In the near future you will be able to offer advice and help to someone struggling with their install.

Nice job, Mike. Thanks for posting your experiences online, including sharing your challenges and setbacks. I'm going this route, but I'm having someone else do most of the hard work.

I hope you've got some great satisfaction after all that hard work. You deserve it

Got so much support from the world and I hope I can help out anyone else who goes down this path. There are so many others that have more experience but I will do,what I can.

Awesome to hear this worked out!!! I plan on putting this system in my 914 2270 also (someday)!!

Congrats on the great achievement.

Like many others, it is my goal to convert my 2056 to Mega or Micro in a near future. Your shared experience has been very inspirational and will certainly help a lot.

Did you get the 30 inch harness or the 8 foot harness?

After spending an hour in the garage tonight looking for my old Megasquirt boxes I only found one which seems fairly incomplete and some components like the drivers are mounted on the heat sink yet the leads are cut off completely. Wife said just buy a new one after seeing my displeasure and it seems Microsquirt is the way to go.

Go with the 8 foot harness.

Microsquirt is preferable to a full blown Megasquirt box in a 914 for a few reasons but mainly because its components are spec'd to be installed in an engine bay whereas the standard megasquirt box should be installed in the cabin or trunk.

If you want I can send you an "easy button" preferred parts shopping list that I have supplied to people. I was thinking about doing another build this winter so maybe ill get around to finally putting together a "how to" pictorial thread start to finish. That is if this other secret project I just picked up doesn't get in the way to much.

Glad to hear, sounds like it going well. If 370 is the hottest the heads get under worst case operating conditions with a stock cam I would say you have it pretty dialed in. As far as performance goes, Megasquirt is great for extracting every possible last bit of performance and driveability from an engine but in the end the limiting factor is still how well the engine can pump air. The cool thing now though is that your fueling system can be easily tuned to virtually anything you decide you want to change on the engine itself. Even cooler (to a nerd like me anyways) is that you can then see exactly where the engine performs differently just by comparing the changes in the fuel map.

So bottom line, now you are just looking for an excuse to build a crazier motor!

Makes sense, easier to shorten than stretch a wire

What spark plug wires to use for the VW coil that plays nice with the Type IV?
Ordering parts this week.

Bump for this list

Items I have so far:

GM air temp sensor
TPS (proper potentiometer TPS) however I thought I read about a better newer style TPS?
Innovate WB02 setup
2 Bar MAP sensor (not bought yet, still in my Amazon cart) currently N/A however might follow Marks low boost turbo design down the road.
Used Ford Yellow top 19lb injectors

Not sure how they fit up to the stock TB, but the latest rage in TPS sensors are the non-contact Hall effect type (Littlefuse 55250-00-00-0 for example). Compact, relatively low cost, and crazy reliable.


The're a little on the pricey side (~$40) but the Bosch TMap sensors are pretty nice. They combine the MAP/IAT sensors into one package and insert right into the manifold. You'd just need to machine a small plate with through hole and tapped hole for fastening. Then only one cable to the ECU and no vacuum lines.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/129_143

If you have not done it down load the current version of Tuner Studios from EFI. Good to enter some of your values ahead of the build. Can send some tunes and log files so you can see how things work.

I have a 3-bar sensor if you want it I can send it with the coil wire.

Would recommend getting the TPS set up from Original Customs it is a easy install and the bracket is done for you. The trigger wheel and VR sensor from OC is a good call as well. Takes a lot of guess work out of the effort. Installs easily but while some say they could do it with engine in, my "man hands" just couldn't even begin to get into the tight space.

You can find the IAT sensor for as little as $10 if you shop. Part Numbers GM part # 25036751 or Borg Warner WT382.

If you don't have one, I would invest in a good professional quality crimping tool and some quality connectors. The debate of solder vs crimp will rage forever but a good crimp tool will save you time and make good connections quickly.

WOW that is a good deal on that sensor MAP and IAT for $40. Would be a very simplified install. That may be the best approach I have seen. Assuming that the IAT and the MAP in the same location works. Seems like it should.

I've used them on a few builds now and been very happy. IMHO it's the cleanest setup for a car with nice central plenum. When my 2.0 goes MS3 it's going to get a TMAP.

Sorry I haven't been on in a while, to many projects. Received multiple DMs about this but haven't had time to respond to them, given the interest ill work on putting together an end to end how to thread as soon as I can get some time. Until then here is a short list of the major components that can be used regardless of your induction method. In order to give a complete parts list I would need to know if this is for a d-jet conversion or an independent throttle body setup.

May ways this can be done but this list is focused on using a Microsquirt ECU and what I have found to be the simplest way to go while being as affordable as possible.

So here we go....

First off the ECU itself
Microsquirt with 8ft base harness. The main connector is already in place and the wires color coded so all that is needed is end connectors to be sourced and components wires up - Currently ~$390
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsq...wiring-harness/

For Ignition Input - this is my preferred crank trigger package . Very secure mounting and uses a Hall sensor that produces a very clean square wave - Currently $149
http://thedubshop.goodsie.com/type-4-crank-trigger-package

Ignition output - VW wasted spark coil (VW part 032905106B)
Genuine VW can be pretty pricey but aftermarket can be had for $20 new. This is a logic level coil so no ignition drivers are needed, the Microsquirt gets wired directly to it with 3 wires.
https://www.amazon.com/ECCPP-032905106-610-...n/dp/B00UA2YI4W

Due to the nature of wasted spark systems they can be hard on spark plugs so i have been looking into a newer 4 channel logic level VW coil but as i haven't personally ran one yet I am not going to list it. I have used the coil above on multiple installs so that is what im listing for now. Its super easy and it works great.


MAP Sensor - Use the 1-bar Standard GM map sensor. The reason I recommend the 1 bar rather than the 2 or 3 bar is that it provides better resolution in a naturally aspirated application. Last ones I purchased at a FLAPS (every FLAPS should have them). You can find them pretty much anywhere from $15-$60
Lots of different part numbers,i don't have the exact ones I used handy but they are used on pretty much any non boosted injected GM car from the 80s and 90s. If you want to do real time barometric correction you will need 2 of these.

Identification guide
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/ev...-identification

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadilla...p)+sensor,11207


Those are the main components. Any other components you need (Wiring connectors, throttle position sensor, air temp sensor, head temp sensor, injectors) depend on what you plan on attaching the megasquirt to (existing d-jet, ITBs or whatever). The above are a starting point for all though.

When i get some time ill put together a how to thread that dives more into the specifics, but in the mean time here a are a couple of my favorite sources for neat stuff you might use:


https://reproparts.wazala.com/
has lots of cool stuff but of specific importance are:

https://reproparts.wazala.com/products/pors...plug-connector/
-Useful for wiring your harness to the stock relay board location for power and fuel pump relay

https://reproparts.wazala.com/products/d-je...e-plug-housing/
https://reproparts.wazala.com/products/d-je...oot-grip-style/
-Usefull if you want to use d-jet injectors


https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/a280-a380-h...e-fuel-injector
-Brand new High-Z injectors(so you dont need a resistor pack) that fit the d-jet and l-jet intake runners and have locking connectors.

http://www.thedubshop.net/products
Lots and lots of handy stuff depending on your application

So still enjoy driving. Running Auto Tune every so often and making minor changes but basically have a solid running system!

Up until this point I have not messed much with the idle control I have just been using a manual valve to let in more air on cold starts. I have a Bosch type 2-wire IAC valve. I have played around with it a bit and really cant see that it ever closes enough to bring the idle down into the target range.

I have verified that the valve mode is normally off at 0% duty. I have played around with the valve frequency but have not really seen a difference in the operation. Tuner Studios suggests that Bosch valves operate at 50-100 Hz.

Anyone have any experience setting up the Bosch IAC?

Those IAC always seem SOOOO huge to me. I played with one for awhile and couldn't really get it dialed in. I didn't spend a bunch of time on it, and I'm sure it's possible. But since aesthetics are important to me as well, I didn't bother investing much time since I knew I wasn't going to find a mounting setup that made sense, the whole thing occupies too much space, and the inlet/outlet ports are so huge that it'd need ugly adapters on both sides to bring them down to 13mm to match the ports on our engine.

I guess I need to actually get my new Hyundai IAC setup bench tested and then send it out to you for functional testing.