(yes I used search)

Is it going to be as easy as undoing the fastener on the top and pulling up? Anything I should look out for?

I need to remove the tank so I can get it cleaned out at the local boil-n-go radiator shop. Also, 'While I'm In There™' anything else I should be doing?

Take off the expansion tank that's around the filler so that you can remove the wires to the sending unit. Undo the strap and pull out the tank. There's a chance that the hoses undertneath will be too short and you won't be able to lift the tank very high. If that's the case, pinch the hoses off with vice grips or fuel line pliers and cut them. You should replace them anyway.

While you're in there? About the only thing is installing a sway bar.

Take the time to clean underneath the tank. Dirt in the bottom can hold water like a sponge.

And while your at it please weight the tank and tell us how much.

Thanks.

It's easy man! No worries. I would replace the fuel lines from the tank to the plastic lines. You'll know what i'm talking about once your in their. But it really is an easy job. Getting it back in with those rubber things, can be a bitch.
Eric

How easy is it to replace the fuel lines? Do you have to replace the ones that go back to the engine?

QUOTE (mercdev @ Apr 18 2005, 05:58 PM)

(yes I used search) Is it going to be as easy as undoing the fastener on the top and pulling up? Anything I should look out for? I need to remove the tank so I can get it cleaned out at the local boil-n-go radiator shop. Also, 'While I'm In There™' anything else I should be doing?

Hey you got a car!!!

So when can the 'locals' come check it out?

QUOTE

I would replace the fuel lines from the tank to the plastic lines

The lines from the tank are rubber, that connect to two metal lines that run thru the front bulkhead to the tunnel to the plastic lines about 10 " back in the tunnel. I don't think you can change those lines without destroying the plastic lines in the tunnel. They are a very tight fit on the metal lines. That said, all those lines should be replaced. Difficulty depends upon your mechanical abilities.

this is a job that is much easier with 2 people. with 2 you shouldn't have to remove the frt hood. if you don't want to tear the whole top of the tank apart you can snip the fuel level sending wires and put on bullet connectors for reconnection. you need to run the fuel down as low as you can. on the reinstall add some extra HIGH PRESURE FUEL LINE and it should lay in the bottom of the tank well. enough to make the connection with tank above its home. the rubber side spacers go in easy when you have them in the correct orientation. slide them in while the tank is unsecured. again, 2 people putting them in at the same time helps. when you are done, lightly lower the hood to make sure the tank isn't riding too high and that the fill neck isn't hitting the bottom of the hood. have a catch tank/large fuel can all setup to catch the fuel that might spill.

k

I removed my tank from my '75 last month, to install new hoses from the tank to the hard lines. I printed the instructions from the Pelican technical 914 section. There is a technical article specifically detailing tank removal. These instructions saved me lots of time! I had the neighbor help me remove the hood, only took three minutes & made the whole job easier.

Randal the tank from my 73 weighs 22 lbs

...with all of the above. Plan on spending some quality time on cleaning out the area underneath the tank. I just pulled my tank to install metal lines in the tunnel and couldn't put it back in without taking care of the dirt and rust in the well. Consider removing all of the seam caulk to expose the underlying rust. You might also find some corrosion from the brake reservior too.

You might want to pull off the cover underneath the car (two bolts) exposing the access hole to the tank connections. Might be easier to cut/remove the lines from there.

You can drain the tank by disconnecting the feed lines underneath the engine where the fuel pump is, or used to be. That area has the easiest and lowest access to a fuel line connector. An empty tank will make the job much much easier if not less messy.

I removed mine by myself and had no problems once I removed all of the connections. Being the impatient person that I can sometimes be, I didn't remove the expansion tank first which means I didn't remove the sender wires, which means I spent too much time cussing, trying to force the expansion tank past the hood (which I left on), and looking for other hose connections underneath the tank (there are only two). Meanwhile I was yanking the snot out of the sender wires. Remove the expansion tank, unplug the wires, lift the tank out. Easy.

-Jeff

I drained my tank my placing an empty 6 gal. Gas can in the front trunk spare tire area. This area is slightly lower than the bottom of the 914 fuel tank. I then siphoned the gas into the gas can. This pretty much emptied all but a couple pints of gas from the fuel tank. Lifted the 914 fuel tank out single-handed after this. I also renewed the drain hoses from the fan housing, to the floor pan. These were rotted & brittle. I was fortunate enough to not have any rust, but there was a fair share of grime below the tank. That idea of adding an electrical quick disconnect inline on the fuel sender cable sound like a good one. I'll likely do this next time I need to pull my tank.

I removed my tank a couple of weeks ago. Didn't have to remove the hood, and then I put a big handful of small nuts in it with a gallon of paint thinner and shook the bergeezus out of it....Cleaned it very well.
The trickiest part was getting the side rubbers back in by myself when reinstalling the tank. What I did was cut two small wood wedges and wedged the rubbers in position, and removed the wedges once the tank was in place.....Worked great!

on my /6 you could unplug the sender wires w/o taking off the expansion tank - 'course I didnt find that out until I had the expansion tank off. Careful with those expansion tank screws - fine thread and easy to strip. then you'll have fuel smell in the car.

no need at all to remove hood, but having little fuel in it will save your back. disconnect battery and careful about static electricity.

there is a strainer in the tank connected to the outlet line. cheap from porsche. yours is likely trashed by now. but the crush seal was nla so I reused mine.

its really worth getting the tank steam cleaned cuz rust gets ground up into such fine particle size that it will go thru your filter and collect in your carbs (if using them) causing problems.

1. Place front of car on jack stands.
2. Open the front hood.
3. Make a line on the fender just behind the strut/shock nut, but in front of the tank.
4. Install a new long sawzall blade.
5. Cut along the line from one fender to the other.
6. Stand back so the front clip does not hit your toes when it falls to the floor.
7. Cut the fuel lines with a pair of of bolt cutters.
8. Unplug the sending unit.
9. Remove the tank.
10. Place add in classifeds, "FS: Front Clip"

PS. Draining the tank of gas is optional, but recommended.

Paul

...until you start welding in the tube frame!

k