This is the second time someone has recommended Sharkhide metal protectant. My question to those that have experience...

1) does it really work?
2) would it be beneficial to keep a stripped tub from rusting before paint (project stalled)
C) is it hard to remove?


* pic added cuz I know most of you won't open threads without the pic icon

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dont know about removal, i have only used it for protecting polished aluminum. it works well, but needs to be periodically reapplied. i like it better than clear laquer because it dosent yellow, peel or fail. sharkskin protects the finish. i would think removal with laquer thinner or acetone followed by another polish would be sufficient to remove it. not suitable for protecting a stripped tub in my opinion. for that i would use a periodic application of wd40 or seafoam deep creep. wipes off with laquer thinner.

Copy that... I realize I'm not using it for it's intended purpose. I live in Montana (dry climate) but I still would like to protect my naked six from flashing while I'm stalled

i am partial to deep creep. it jellies after application and is easily wiped off

Check. Looking into that product now.

*Freeking out over having to google "deep creep"... you gotta link to keep me from the eye bleach?

sea foam deep creep. get it at flaps. aerosol not the pour version of sea foam. very similar to strong arm or kroil, just available locally. hope that helps. green label aerosol, not red label, google it.

It does and thanks... very cool

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my nephews triumph bonneville has been in my garage for three years. sprayed it with deep creep 3yrs ago and wiped it. no rust whatsoever, all the tin is bare metal.

Be aware that you can be setting yourself up for future paint issues by coating the body in oil.

When I saw WD40 I started having Fisheye flashbacks.

i have used both wd 40 and deep creep with no issues upon painting. having said that, obviously, thorough prep before painting is required. i wash the treated areas with tsp and hot water, when it dries, i liberally wipe with lacquer thinner and prep as usual. careful prep, it should not be an issue. both kerosene based and break down easily with solvents.

That's my dilemma... what is the lesser of two evils? Rust that will need to sanded out again or oil that will need to be thoroughly obliterated before paint?

i will take the cleaning all day long. rust is degadation and you cant be sure you got it all. the solvents/coatngs will also attack the rust.

Good point.