where is the CHT? on a 74 2.0 teener?
anyone got any pictures

AND

how do i check to make sure it is operational and how do I take the CHT sensor out?

thanx... hoping to do this on Sunday 10/16/16

914 luva Andover Massachusetts

Behind the intake runner for #3 cylinder, you will find the cht. It is behind the rubber plug in the tin. You will need a deep 13mm socket to remove it.

Here's a good picture.

http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/Cylin...-76-p23355.html

Buy a Haynes manual.

Well with my last name being HAYNES that is the first thing I got. This stuff is NOT intuitive to me.
I leave it to the pros.
So I have determined by sucking in the vaccum tube which goes to the MLS is good. There is sucking power.

With the CHT that was it it was disconnected in the junction plastic box. I just replace all the boxes so I can visually see. I also need to replace some boots on all the connectors.

Thank you all for helping me with this,problem.
Car is starting but idle is too low because the AAR is working.

So now gotta determine the idle screw and adjust that.

So will update you by end of day.

KTF

The problem with removing the CHT is that it has an axial lead. You have to modify your 13 mm socket or extension so that the lead as a place to go. You can cut a slot up the side of the socket for the lead wire to sit in, or you can cut off the corner of the square end of your extension so that the wire fits in the gap between the corner and the socket hole. The CHT is secured with a copper washer that falls off easily when you're removing it or re-installing it. If it falls off during removal you'll have to fish it out, but you can prevent it from falling out on re-installation, by securing it to the CHT with a small drop of superglue, which will break off during tightening. When re-installing, be extremely careful to make sure the male spade connector on the wiring harness that's inside of the plastic insulating housing goes completely into the female spade connector that's attached to the CHT. It is very easy to think you have inserted it, when it's actually jammed between the plastic housing and the connector. This will lead to intermittent contact and poor running.

I should have said this first, but why are you removing it? It's easy enough to test it without removal. When cold (let the car sit overnight), disconnect the CHT from the wiring harness and use a DMM to measure the resistance to ground. Values are in the table in the link in my sig file, somewhere around 2.5 kohm. Reconnect the CHT then drive the car for 30 minutes, and repeat the test immediately after stopping. The resistance then should be on the order of 50 ohms. Anything different and the CHT is faulty.

Hi thanx for responding so quickly. I have tested chg and it is good. The problem was it was not connected. But thanx for your information. I will NOT touch it.

Question: which is the idle screw because I changed the broken AAR now I have a good one
And the idle is way too low. So I need to increase the idle a bit.

Thanx

I am here now if someone wants to pm me

BTW I do have Haynes, pbanders doc and many other documents where I think would help with this TEENER. I WISH I HAD THE ORIGINAL PORSCHE set. OF MANUALS. Anyone got an extra set they wanna get rid of. Or duplicates. I will take them

PM or email me.


Do I turn the air bleeder screw clockwise or counterclockwise to increase the idle?

914 luva KTF

Mark where it is so you can return it where you started. Then turn it and see what happens! A screw isn't rocket science. Clockwise should lower the idle. Open to increase. But sometimes there are vacuum leaks in the intake system that idle screw adjustments can't overcome.

You guys are the best.

The problem was the CHT connector was not inserted into the connector.

As soon as I connected it it started right up.

Thanx

This thread has ended