just curious. i'd really like to dial in about -2.5, but don't know if there is a practical limit without a really exhaustive setup.

Dang just said that in the other post. 1.7 with plates alot less without. maybe 1.0 or 1.2
Got the rear wheels to match pretty close with more shims.

i have minus 1.8 in front....

3 in rear

Practical limit? As far as the holes in the top of the strut towers will take you--at least, in the front. The rears, well once you remove all the shims that's it.

Unless you lower the car, of course.

--DD

Front camber is also affected by ride height. When the suspension arm is horizontal it places the bottom of the strut the farthest distance outboard. As the arm pivots above or below horizontal it pulls the bottom of the strut closer to the center of the car thus increasing camber in the possitive direction (ie less negative camber).
With my suspension arms horizontal at static I presently have -1.7 negative camber with stock adjustment plates and they are not quite maxed out. It could probably go to -1.8 or -1.9 before hitting the sides of the center hole.

-Ben M.

I just aligned my car two weeks ago and we did a max camber test on each wheel.

About -1.7 in front and about -1.3 in the rear.

We then set -1.5 in front and -1.0 in the rear.

Nathan,

Any idea whay you need 2.5 in those tires ?

I modify the tub (cut the holes) and remove the dust shield for the shocks...and cut down the stock upper shock holder.


B

QUOTE (Brad Roberts @ Apr 19 2005, 04:18 PM)

Nathan, Any idea whay you need 2.5 in those tires ? I modify the tub (cut the holes) and remove the dust shield for the shocks...and cut down the stock upper shock holder. B

not particularly, no, but i've been putzing around on SCCA forums and such and it is striking how much more negative camber they run up front than 'us'.

The "driver" and how he drives determines how much negative camber the tire needs. Slow people need less negative camber..fast people need more (with Hoosiers/Kuhmo/Avons).

Case in point: Carrera Cup cars and GT3RSR's come from Porsche with something like -5.0 in the front. This works great for PRO drivers.. sucks for the slow guy. He will just wear the tires out on the inside and the car will feel like shit to him.

Tire temps across the "face" are the ONLY way you can determine what YOU need. No one person can tell you what YOU need. I did this for BillP at an Alamdea event and found out he had too much negative in the rear of his car. Pulled it out... and he laid down more tire and went faster.

B

that's good direction, thanks brad. i'll be looking at this at my next event...

Trekkors throttle linkage still looks like shit..LOL (sorry.. he took me too seriously)

Nathan. Hang in there. I have some plans for you. Just trust me the slightest little bit.

I know you have a "gift" Your ass is already calibrated for this stuff. We will dial the car in very soon. I need for you to get the car running 100%. I'll worry about the setup.


B

QUOTE (Brad Roberts @ Apr 19 2005, 05:02 PM)

I know you have a "gift"...

I'll second that notion!! (Actually, I think it was a half-second, wasn't it Nathan? )

The boy's got some driving talent!

--DD

ahh geez, guys. i'm freakin blushing here.

actually, putting the race seat in has made me realize how much improvement i could make in my driving. it really 'isolates' the slop.

Definitely grind down your shock tower in front. I got 2 out of the front and it made a world of difference.

I'm on the fence on whether I'm taking summer school this year, so I may come out and watch you *fast* guys run.

C-YA.

Brad, will you have your pyrometer at Willow?

Will you shoot some tire temps, please?

I promise you won't see my linkage...

KT