Andyrew
Nov 27 2016, 11:19 PM
Stiffeners look great, Love the firewall stiffener!!
Krieger
Nov 28 2016, 12:02 AM
Looking good Chris!
tygaboy
Dec 1 2016, 01:15 PM
I treated the project to an early Christmas present! Ordered a set of GTS Le Mans seats done up like these: grommets, 5-point belt set up. I went with the oval headrest (vs the one pictured or the one that comes standard with the Le Mans)
I added heaters, too. Gotta keep SWMBO happy, don'cha know.
They are due to arrive end of January. And the rumors are true: Stefan is GREAT to work with, as others have pointed out.
OK, so I also have ulterior motives. I want the roll cage bar that runs from the main hoop to the door bar to match the angle of the side bolster. So I "NEEDED" to get the seats!
Plus, I'll just run them in the '74 DD until I get this one running.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
tygaboy
Dec 4 2016, 07:16 PM
The firewall arch installation is FINALLY underway!
I have a TIG machine but:
I the spirit of full disclosure, this beautiful welding
is thanks to my buddy Martin, mentioned earlier. He's a master fabricator who designed and build ProStock motorcycle chassis while working at Kosman. He's done all sorts of crazy cool projects... Anyway, we collaborate on various things and he said "Hey, you have a TIG machine. I'd be happy to do the welding on your cage tubes...", I didn't think too long before taking him up on it!
I'll continue to do all the other welding but I have to say, this has me looking forward to when I'll have time to learn and practice TIG. Until then, it's Martin on the final cage welding!
Cracker
Dec 4 2016, 07:39 PM
Cheater, cheater, apple eater!
Looks very nice Chris...just make sure I fit!
Tony
Rand
Dec 4 2016, 08:36 PM
Nice. So great to see a good fish scale weld after all the straight run blobbing that's so common.
Curbandgutter
Dec 9 2016, 11:54 AM
Love those seats. Those are the ones I'm thinking of using as well. Those grommets really add a classic look to the car. I'd like to sit it them before buying though. Maybe I may make a trip out there and see your build as well.
tygaboy
Dec 9 2016, 12:35 PM
QUOTE(Curbandgutter @ Dec 9 2016, 09:54 AM)
Love those seats. Those are the ones I'm thinking of using as well. Those grommets really add a classic look to the car. I'd like to sit it them before buying though. Maybe I may make a trip out there and see your build as well.
Rudy - My shop is always open so come on up!
Also, the seats will be installed in my '74 that I plan to have at the WCR so if you're coming to that event, you can take the car for a spin and get more than just a static sit.
I went with the grommets as I'm thinking they'll fit with what I have planned for the rest of the interior. I'll be posting more about that design once I get the firewall, floor and roll cage done.
ssuperflyoldguy
Dec 9 2016, 05:21 PM
Dang. You must have house elves too. Very clean & i'm a little late to the party (jealous of the shop & your tig-welding elf) but I use cold rolled galvanized sheet metal when ever I can. Bitch welding (Maybe Martin can help here too) but no corrosion behind panels & overlaps ever again. FabFab.us - I've used a LOT of sheetmetal, all cold rolled
tygaboy
Dec 9 2016, 06:04 PM
Lower Fire Wall:I test fit the motor in the "moved forward 1.5" position and the harmonic balancer was thiiiiiiiiiis close to where the lower fire wall cross beam sits. So I opted to play it safe and clearance the beam in the spirit of "better to be safe than... have two different parts trying to occupy the same space!"
A bit of
and
then some
and the beam can never say "Hey man, would you give me my space!?!?"
It should be fit and welded in this weekend!
Cracker
Dec 9 2016, 06:40 PM
Trust me...it is worth the effort.
Tony
Curbandgutter
Dec 10 2016, 09:40 AM
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Dec 9 2016, 10:35 AM)
QUOTE(Curbandgutter @ Dec 9 2016, 09:54 AM)
Love those seats. Those are the ones I'm thinking of using as well. Those grommets really add a classic look to the car. I'd like to sit it them before buying though. Maybe I may make a trip out there and see your build as well.
Rudy - My shop is always open so come on up!
Also, the seats will be installed in my '74 that I plan to have at the WCR so if you're coming to that event, you can take the car for a spin and get more than just a static sit.
I went with the grommets as I'm thinking they'll fit with what I have planned for the rest of the interior. I'll be posting more about that design once I get the firewall, floor and roll cage done.
Hmmmmmmmm.......I just noticed you are approx. 20 miles from Napa, I just may be able to disguise the visit by telling the wife we are going to Napa. I will definitely take you up on that. I'll be in touch.
tygaboy
Dec 10 2016, 09:42 PM
Slowly making progress. Before I can install the roll bar, I need to reinforce the top of the long, then, in the tradition of "if more is good, too much is just enough", I'm plating in the engine mounts. I'll also add more once I get to installing the Tangerine Racing raised suspension kit.
For now, while it's not final fitment, this will give you an idea of what's planned.
It took most of the day to measure, cut, fit, bend, etc., but I did get both sides done.
Tomorrow, the lower fire wall beam and braces will be final welded.
I like it!
tygaboy
Dec 12 2016, 11:05 AM
Best laid plans...
Didn't get the welding done that I'd planned. I did get the lower cross beam in place and partially welded in. The fun part was that because I want as much room for the motor to be moved forward, I located that lower beam a bit further forward than the upper, curved one. Those of you who paid attention in geometry class know what fun it was to get the uprights to fit well! They lean back and the top has to account for the curve.
It took about 367 fit, grind, fit, grinds to get them done but - they're done!
The driver side is (currently) offset to ensure no interference with the alternator. I say "currently" because I'm waiting to complete the mods to the front engine mount so I can fit the drivetrain in it's relocated position before final welding the uprights... just in case.
tygaboy
Dec 12 2016, 11:13 AM
And that's not all I got done over the weekend: I was able to bend up the new front roll hoop as well as final fit the rear roll hoop. Also welded in the rear hoop pads.
Pics of all this in a couple days.
Making progress...!
mbseto
Dec 12 2016, 01:04 PM
Beautiful work!
Wew
Dec 12 2016, 04:57 PM
Chris, you are an artist. Enjoying the progress you are making.
tygaboy
Dec 17 2016, 05:25 PM
To move the motor forward, I opted to modify the ends of the Renegade engine mount. As delivered, the bosses on the end are set forward of the cross bar by ~1.5".
Here's a pic of the mount, as delivered from Renegade.
tygaboy
Dec 17 2016, 05:27 PM
So lop off those bosses, make new ones and line it all up with the cross bar.
It'll need a gusset so I used a knock-out punch and dimple die to fab up a suitable part.
tygaboy
Dec 17 2016, 05:34 PM
And the main hoop is final fit and ready for welding!
I wanted to get it as tight to the fire wall as possible so I needed to relieve the top "corner" of the fire wall to get the bar to sit back at the proper angle. No one will ever see this area once the car is built but that "corner" area is essentially reversed from the stock shape.
I used a scrap piece of roll bar material and slowly hammered it into the top of the fire wall area until the bar fit as desired.
I'm not going to run a back pad so I removed the 4 tabs that the back pad clips into to get that last little bit of clearance. There's about 1/8" clearance between the bar and the firewall.
I'm developing an appreciation for why custom builds cost so much. Not that I'm highly skilled or efficient, but the work needed to get the hoop to sit back about a 1/2" (relieve the fire wall then grind the footing of each side of the hoop to the correct angle) took me the better part of the day.
tygaboy
Dec 17 2016, 05:37 PM
It's all fitting just as planned. I
how the roll bend of the hoop matches the curve of the window and how the hoop all but disappears.
It'll really disappear once I patch in the fire wall around each side. Can't hardly wait!
napasteve
Dec 17 2016, 05:51 PM
Amazing work Chris. It's going to be a rocket ship. BTW that dash looks a little tired..
tygaboy
Dec 17 2016, 06:03 PM
QUOTE(napasteve @ Dec 17 2016, 03:51 PM)
Amazing work Chris. It's going to be a rocket ship. BTW that dash looks a little tired..
Hey, I resemble that remark! I prefer "vintage" or "patina"!
Dion
Dec 17 2016, 06:45 PM
Sweet work Chris. Really nice. You are kickin it out!
mgp4591
Dec 17 2016, 07:14 PM
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Dec 17 2016, 05:03 PM)
QUOTE(napasteve @ Dec 17 2016, 03:51 PM)
Amazing work Chris. It's going to be a rocket ship. BTW that dash looks a little tired..
Hey, I resemble that remark! I prefer "vintage" or "patina"!
That's a great way to describe a lot of us AND our cars - I prefer "vintage" or "patinaed" to "old"...
tygaboy
Dec 18 2016, 03:55 PM
Did I say I wasn't efficient? Well, turns out I thought I should check to be sure my fabulous gussets would work... They wouldn't. They need to be flat for the first ~3" to clear the engine mount on the chassis. So that earlier work is throw-away.
My own dang fault but, oh well.
So, I opted to design up the new gussets and cut them on the plasma table. The trellis look is more in keeping with the theme I have planned for the car so it's out with the holes and in with the triangles (ish). Another part of the car that will go unseen by essentially everyone but I do like these better than the first design.
That existing bracket is the electric water pump mount. I figured I'd just tie into it.
I hope to have it welded tomorrow.
Then it's on to the transmission mounting brackets and updating them to address the 1 1/2" forward position. I have what I think is a pretty good design. More on that in the next few days.
sixnotfour
Dec 18 2016, 04:57 PM
I applauded your effort,, and follow it ,,my question is ...Roll bar,,why not like this but just tall enough for a top..its my next roll bar.. right behind the latch..
Rand
Dec 18 2016, 05:22 PM
Because it sticks out like a sore thumb? I appreciate it when the original lines are preserved. (I know, aesthetics go out the window with race cars because function first, but if they don't have to, all the better.) His car is going to be plenty stiff. Are you concerned with rollover protection beyond the stock hoop? (I know, I'm full of opinions, but I ask because I want to learn.)
Cracker
Dec 18 2016, 07:13 PM
That bar is at a functional height due to a safety standard. Damn with originality if its not legal and not safe if not legal. Many race cars are driven at speed with non-compliant upper roll hoops (which equals stupid in my book).
Nice work Chris! Make sure I fit - I want to take it for a spin this Summer! No breaks for you...
Tony
tygaboy
Dec 18 2016, 07:15 PM
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 18 2016, 02:57 PM)
I applauded your effort,, and follow it ,,my question is ...Roll bar,,why not like this but just tall enough for a top..its my next roll bar.. right behind the latch..
What Rand said. I want to stiffen the chassis and preserve, as much as I can, a non-race car look. Plus, I have a defective gene that manifests itself through me wanting to try things that you don't see every day. What can I say? I like unique!
tygaboy
Dec 18 2016, 07:28 PM
Do I have ADD? Maybe. Today, for sure. Too many things going at once! After I cut the gussets, I got distracted by the main hoop again.
I can't get the hoop into place with the final interior sheet metal in place - the shape of the hoop and angle it has to be at to be fit into the car don't allow it.
Before the hoop can be welded in, I have to fab a bunch of pieces of sheet metal that will be slipped onto the hoop, slid out of the way while it's set in place and welded in. Then all the sheet metal will slid into place to be welded.
It's hard to explain but maybe this series of pics will help.
This is the early fab and fitting of how I plan to close in the hoop. I punched and dimple died that top piece and started messing with rolling the other piece and using the bead roller to form the flange.
I'll use a combination of fabricated pieces and some of the stock firewall from the parts car. So at this point, it's really at the "see how this fits/looks, try again if I don't like it" stage. By the way, I don't like this. It'll be MUCH tidier, the stamped elements in the fire wall will terminate in an attractive way, etc.
But you get the idea.
sixnotfour
Dec 19 2016, 01:22 AM
its all good , I did not I'mply for it to stick out like a sore thumb , just integrated into the body ,similar to the pic but at the og body height with his small bend radius it would blend in...no race car...
tygaboy
Dec 19 2016, 09:58 AM
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 18 2016, 11:22 PM)
its all good , I did not I'mply for it to stick out like a sore thumb , just integrated into the body ,similar to the pic but at the og body height with his small bend radius it would blend in...no race car...
I bent up a more traditional main hoop before deciding to go with the low hoop. This would make a great start for a non-race car. Know anyone who'd want it?
3d914
Dec 19 2016, 06:44 PM
Chris, so you're not going to use that good-looking roll-bar? You're engine bar (cross-bar) looks really nice too!
waltonsm
Dec 19 2016, 10:18 PM
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Dec 19 2016, 07:58 AM)
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Dec 18 2016, 11:22 PM)
its all good , I did not I'mply for it to stick out like a sore thumb , just integrated into the body ,similar to the pic but at the og body height with his small bend radius it would blend in...no race car...
I bent up a more traditional main hoop before deciding to go with the low hoop. This would make a great start for a non-race car. Know anyone who'd want it? :D
Chris, I am following your posts closely as I am about to embark on some very nearly identical chassis work, and street roll bar and door bar. I am interested in the bar and other parts you may have fabbed and chosen not to use along the way.
My plan is to bring the complete harnesses, chassis, and engine computers (and modified steering column and controls from the 2011 WRX I have mostly next to it in the garage.
Steve
tygaboy
Dec 20 2016, 08:42 AM
QUOTE(waltonsm @ Dec 19 2016, 08:18 PM)
Chris, I am following your posts closely as I am about to embark on some very nearly identical chassis work, and street roll bar and door bar. I am interested in the bar and other parts you may have fabbed and chosen not to use along the way.
My plan is to bring the complete harnesses, chassis, and engine computers (and modified steering column and controls from the 2011 WRX I have mostly next to it in the garage.
Steve
Hi Steve,
PM sent.
tygaboy
Dec 20 2016, 07:15 PM
Finished the modification of the engine mount - gusset final welding complete!
I plan to get everything modified, installed and get the car running then blow it apart and do the powder coating, etc. So for now, I'll just rattle can primer parts like this.
tygaboy
Dec 20 2016, 07:23 PM
With the engine mount complete, it's time to deal with the 1.5" position change on the trans mounts. The good news is that the Renegade mount is made of multiple parts and thankfully, their design allows for a pretty simple solution: make a couple spacers. 1 1/2 " spacers, but spacers, nonetheless.
Nothing like finding a block of aluminum that happens to be the exact right thickness! Got lucky on that one, for sure.
So here's an action shot of the worlds most kick-ass band saw making short work of roughing out said spacers.
It cut through that block "like butta..."
Yes, this spacer means there's a big increase in the leverage on the mount. But fear not! The Boxster trans has a mount on the end that I'm going to use to add a 3rd trans mount. In all, the drive train should be well secured in it's new, forward position.
I hope to get it test fit in the next day or so. Once I've verified all the clearances, I'll go after closing in the fire wall and floor. I'll claim MAJOR MILESTONE at that point.
tygaboy
Dec 20 2016, 07:34 PM
With solid progress on the mounts, I went back to working on the main hoop fitment.
I'm sure I'm not alone in laying awake at night, running through "... now how am I gonna make this work...? If it have to make tab A fit into slot B, first I'd need to..."
You know what I'm taking about, don't you?
So, after many sleepless hours, I figured if I split the hole the hoop goes through, I'd be able to finish weld the area that will end up being behind the hoop. This does 2 things:
1. it perfectly locates the hoop every time I remove it / replace it to do whatever needs doing, and,
2. it allows me full access to metal finish every bit of welding I need to do to close it in!
Again, no one but me may ever see this part of the car but I want it to look as factory as possible. So far, I'm happy with how this part is turning out.
Rand
Dec 20 2016, 07:47 PM
Totally enjoying your build thread. It's so great to see thoughtful fabrication, attention to detail, and... quality welds! (Nice scales instead of straight blobs laid on top, or worse, what I jokingly call "eagle crap" lol)
tygaboy
Dec 21 2016, 07:07 PM
Nothing like being on vacation to get things done! The spacers are nearly done. See how the trans mounts are slotted? When I test fit the drive train, the bolts end up tight against the end of the mount slot so I'm going to mill ~1/4" off the spacers. Better all around with that minor adjustment.
Plus, I'll dress the corners and probably add some relief pockets to lighten then up.
tygaboy
Dec 21 2016, 07:16 PM
And this will start to give you an idea of the new mount I want to add to address the additional leverage those spacers give the Renegade trans mounts.
The Boxster trans has a mount at the end. I'll either use that by punching a hole and adding a boss that will support this 3rd mount or I'll fab up a new mount.
Then, when I build the rear part of the cage/stiffening, I'll run bars from the shock mounts, past the stock trans mount cross bar and out to support this mount.
I'll drop supports to the stock trans mount, too. More on this as I get to it.
Boy, I say that alot. But then, there's a lot to get to! But it's coming along.
tygaboy
Dec 21 2016, 07:20 PM
And here are the money shots: What does moving the drive train forward 1.5" look like?
Well, the harmonic balancer/alternator belt will live juuuuust inside the engine side outer fire wall! That's the rear floor pan in the stock location. So a couple key points:
1. You can see that there's no way this would have worked without messing with the lower section of the fire wall.
2. Good thing I just happened to add an arched upper fire wall support! If I'd opted for a straight bar, I'd have had interference.And there are a couple spots on the upper fire wall that I did have to relieve:
1. at the left side valve cover and
2. a small adjustments to provide extra clearance for the Renegade water block. It clears, but only just, so I figure better safe than sorry.
But best of all, this is exactly how it was planned to fit. And it did!
OK, I sorta lied. Turns out, I didn't HAVE to add that clearance crescent in the lower cross bar. But to be fair, right before that was welded in, I bumped it forward about 1/4", "just in case". Again, better safe than sorry.
The only concession is that I'll need one small access hole to access the allen bolt when adjusting the alternator belt tension. I've already verified I can get the belt on and off, too.
tygaboy
Dec 21 2016, 07:32 PM
Next, the rear floor goes in and it's on to the custom floor bracing and tunnel!
Cracker
Dec 21 2016, 07:39 PM
Pick up the pace Chris...you are obviously taking your time!
I knew it would be tight but...
T
tygaboy
Dec 21 2016, 07:42 PM
QUOTE(Cracker @ Dec 21 2016, 05:39 PM)
Pick up the pace Chris...you are obviously taking your time!
I knew it would be tight but...
T
To quote a builder I admire (David Palatov of Palatov Motorsport):
"Clearance is clearance."
Curbandgutter
Dec 23 2016, 10:14 AM
Love your work. Are you planning on adding lateral bracing in the open area of the lower firewall using sheet metal and bracing or only sheet metal? Loving the progress so far. I'm progressing on mine but I'm waiting until I reach a "milestone" before I post again. BTW loved how you slipped the sheet metal around your hoop so that you can weld it in later. Excellent thinking and craftsmanship!
tygaboy
Dec 23 2016, 06:34 PM
Time to mill the spacers. Here's an action shot of the flycutter doing its thing
, the finished products
and the new spacers installed.
Prior to resizing them, it was a bit of work to get everything lined up and the hanger bolts in place. Now, both sides slide in just like that!
tygaboy
Dec 23 2016, 06:36 PM
QUOTE(Curbandgutter @ Dec 23 2016, 08:14 AM)
Love your work. Are you planning on adding lateral bracing in the open area of the lower firewall using sheet metal and bracing or only sheet metal? Loving the progress so far. I'm progressing on mine but I'm waiting until I reach a "milestone" before I post again. BTW loved how you slipped the sheet metal around your hoop so that you can weld it in later. Excellent thinking and craftsmanship!
Thanks for the kind words, Rudy. I'm going to have two braces, one on each side of the harmonic balancer, and sheet metal on the interior sides. I'm contemplating skinning both sides of the wall. Still not sure.
Cracker
Dec 23 2016, 06:37 PM
I know I caused you allot of extra work but I guarantee you - it was the right call to take it on! Merry Christmas to you and Lori!
PS: All of that "spacer" weight might slow the car down a bit...
T
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