Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3
914World.com > The 914 Forums > 914World Garage
Pages: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93
andys
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 3 2019, 03:09 PM) *

QUOTE(andys @ Sep 3 2019, 02:50 PM) *

QUOTE(Curbandgutter @ Sep 3 2019, 02:14 PM) *

Wow, I love the way those hard lines are looking. I've never like the rubber lines just dangling out the way it's typically done. Very clean look for sure.


Except that you do need some rubber couplers in strategic places, as the aluminum hardlines will expand and contract rather significantly. Just thought I'd mention it. Yup, those hardlines do look good!
Andys


@andys - I was planning rubber between the hard line and the radiator and just past the trunk wall, the hard line transitions to the Gates hose. There will be a couple rubber isolated mount P-clamps helping support the lines, as well.

Would you think that'll be OK? (I could always redo the hard lines in stainless, if needed.)


As long as you don't have too long of a convoluted run, you should be ok. Also, if you hard mount one end (of a long run), allow a floating mounting scheme for the opposite end. IMHO.
Andys
tygaboy
With all the time I've been spending in the frunk, the GT headlight kit started calling out to me so I got after it.
jd74914
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 4 2019, 11:01 AM) *

It's a 55 GPM pump, same one as pictured. As to switching the fans, I can use the ECU or the Infinity Box system. The 2nd pic of one of the Infinity Box options.

What about the water pump though? Are you going to run that variable speed or full bore?
tygaboy
Progress on the hard lines. I got the grommets for the bulkhead plate but I'm not sure about the p-clamp, certainly not the white insulation. That's what I got when I ordered something that takes up to 300 degrees. I may just wrap the line under the clamp with black silicone tape. We'll see.
But I like how the lines are turning out.
Superhawk996
Amazing build. Keep going. Soon you'll be to 100 pages! cheer.gif

What is the longest build thread on here? You've got to be in serious contention.
dan10101
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 4 2019, 11:05 AM) *

With all the time I've been spending in the frunk, the GT headlight kit started calling out to me so I got after it.


What is this GT Headlight Kit you speak of? Pray Tell...

Ok, i need to quit drinking beer in the afternoon... beer3.gif

Andyrew
QUOTE(dan10101 @ Sep 4 2019, 06:01 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 4 2019, 11:05 AM) *

With all the time I've been spending in the frunk, the GT headlight kit started calling out to me so I got after it.


What is this GT Headlight Kit you speak of? Pray Tell...

Ok, i need to quit drinking beer in the afternoon... beer3.gif

Gt's had manual headlights not electric.

https://900designs-container.zoeysite.com/9...ase-cable-kit-1
tygaboy
Radiator lines fab'd and fit. A couple joints to final weld and this gets checked off the to-do list.

I abandoned the "p-clamp bolted to the chassis". The latest is using the p-clamps but bolting each one to opposite sides of a .5" rubber isolation mount. This does an OK job but I think I can come up with something that works a bit better.

And this effort was my first foray into TIG welding aluminum. I found it far easier to get a nice result than welding steel. I don't know why I thought AL would be more difficult. That said, contamination of any sort and it all goes to hell instantly. Far more sensitive than steel.
Superhawk996
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 6 2019, 04:34 PM) *


And this effort was my first foray into TIG welding aluminum. I found it far easier to get a nice result than welding steel. I don't know why I thought AL would be more difficult. That said, contamination of any sort and it all goes to hell instantly. Far more sensitive than steel.


I personally like doing aluminum too. For some reason I find it more satisfying.

If you think aluminum contaminates quickly, try to TIG Galvaneal. headbang.gif
FourBlades

TIG welding aluminum is a holy grail skill!

I am still trying to learn to TIG steel.

Did you run a purge line inside the pipes?

John
Andyrew
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 6 2019, 01:34 PM) *

Radiator lines fab'd and fit. A couple joints to final weld and this gets checked off the to-do list.

I abandoned the "p-clamp bolted to the chassis". The latest is using the p-clamps but bolting each one to opposite sides of a .5" rubber isolation mount. This does an OK job but I think I can come up with something that works a bit better.

And this effort was my first foray into TIG welding aluminum. I found it far easier to get a nice result than welding steel. I don't know why I thought AL would be more difficult. That said, contamination of any sort and it all goes to hell instantly. Far more sensitive than steel.



Gorgeous pieces!!!!
tygaboy
QUOTE(FourBlades @ Sep 7 2019, 08:26 AM) *

TIG welding aluminum is a holy grail skill!

I am still trying to learn to TIG steel.

Did you run a purge line inside the pipes?

John

@FourBlades - No back purging. I think that's only absolutely required on Ti. Not that total shielding isn't "better" but it worked fine without it.
jd74914
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 7 2019, 11:48 AM) *

QUOTE(FourBlades @ Sep 7 2019, 08:26 AM) *

Did you run a purge line inside the pipes?

@FourBlades - No back purging. I think that's only absolutely required on Ti. Not that total shielding isn't "better" but it worked fine without it.

Don't need to backpurge aluminum. Highly recommended on mild/stainless steel tube/pipe (req. if doing code welding) and like Chris said absolutely necessary on Ti. The drawn tubing used in cages is normally pretty nasty inside in in my experience really benefits from a backpurge.
FourBlades

OK, good to know.

I got a lot better when someone told me to get 2x magnifying lens for my welding helmet.

Much easier to see the little glowing worm and not touch it to the metal. welder.gif

John
tygaboy
One for the tool whores: I treated myself to a "real" spot welder. Having checked out the Harbor Freight version, I opted for this one. Really nice.

If anyone local to me needs/wants to borrow this, please don't hesitate to let me know. It's pretty incredible.
tygaboy
I used the magic spot welder to attach a little bracket to which the fuel filter mounts.
The lower part of the fuel filter mount rests on a small rubber pad on top of the fuel tank.
bbrock
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Sep 16 2019, 05:51 PM) *

One for the tool whores: I treated myself to a "real" spot welder. Having checked out the Harbor Freight version, I opted for this one. Really nice.

If anyone local to me needs/wants to borrow this, please don't hesitate to let me know. It's pretty incredible.



ENVY! drooley.gif
914forme
Telwin digital 230, nice unit. Have not seen them for sale in the US, I know what they cost, but who was the US supplier?

They make a great spot welder, enjoy it. Been looking for a used one for a long time.
amfab
QUOTE(914forme @ Sep 16 2019, 06:17 PM) *

Telwin digital 230, nice unit. Have not seen them for sale in the US, I know what they cost, but who was the US supplier?

They make a great spot welder, enjoy it. Been looking for a used one for a long time.


Here is a used one for sale
tygaboy
@914forme Stephen, I got mine here, at USA Weld:
https://www.usaweld.com/Quick-Spot-II-p/60501.htm

I did add the zipadeedooda angled arms. It comes with a set that point the electrodes directly at each other.
Andyrew
Now that's a killer tool!!!
914forme
@tygaboy thanks for the link I think - headbang.gif 1/2 the price I have seen it for on the other side of the end.

I have a tool itch now. headbang.gif
tygaboy
Note to self: Next time, remember to check that the cup holder clears the fuel lines before you get all excited that you got them done... shades.gif

Yep, had to make new ones with a few fancy bends. We now have clearance, Clarence.
tygaboy
I wanted to do away with the hood springs so I needed to come up with a prop rod set up. In looking at what I've seen others do, I didn't like what seemed to be just a rod with a rubber nub on the end. Seems to me that if you were outside and a gust lifted the hood, the rod would fall, the hood would drop, etc.

So I came up with what I think is a neat solution:

I used a pit pin and welded an appropriately deep boss to the fire wall and one to the under hood bracing.

A quick press on the button and the pin pulls out. Swing the rod up and use the same pin to attach the prop rod to the hood.

Windy day at Cars and Coffee? Not a problem for me!

And that's a copper tube over 1/4" aluminum hex. It supports the stock hood with no flex. If I get a composite hood, I can remove the copper and just run the aluminum.
Andyrew
Ooh that's clever! The copper rod is going to get confused with wood pretty often. That's a nice looking piece!!
tygaboy
I decided to install the inner rockers. Mine had been cut up a bit so I figured now was as good a time as any.
Anyway, it gave me a chance to use the spot welder.

Holy Moley, is this WAAAAY better than drilling and plug welding! No spatter, no temptation to grind, etc. Almost looks factory.

@914forme , @Andyrew - You NEED one of these!

If anyone local to me is planning any repairs that could use this, do yourself a favor and borrow this thing! PM me if you're in need...
sixnotfour
aktion035.gif
markhoward
smilie_pokal.gif welder.gif beerchug.gif
914forme
drooley.gif on the list
db9146
Tygaboy,

I've never built a V8 powered 914 but I've ridden in one and have a question for you. It always seems that managing the heat from the radiator is a problem that can make the inside of the car a really uncomfortable place, even with some sealing done around the stock openings from the frunk into the cockpit.

What about some sort of insulated panel in between the top of the radiator shrouding and the mid-trunk firewall ahead of the tank to close off the incoming air, now heated by the radiator, and force it out of the openings in the inner fenders? It seems to me that such a panel and some insulation in the frunk area to help contain the heat might help to keep the cockpit from getting so hot. Without such a panel, you only have the seal at the top of the mid-trunk firewall and the underside of the hood to keep all of that heat from coming right up against the thin sheetmetal under the dash.

Something like this.....(I borrowed this pic from FL 000 since his is similar in layout to yours...FL 000, hope you don't mind, certainly no criticism intended![i])
Click to view attachment

Just a thought......
914forme
In reality the better way would be post radiator duct work, to make sure the heat goes where you want it to.
tygaboy
QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 9 2019, 06:48 AM) *

In reality the better way would be post radiator duct work, to make sure the heat goes where you want it to.

agree.gif
I'm no thermal engineer but I don't think another layer of material in the location you're indicating would make that big a difference as most of what you'd be insulating is the hood skin.
Andyrew
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Oct 9 2019, 07:15 AM) *

QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 9 2019, 06:48 AM) *

In reality the better way would be post radiator duct work, to make sure the heat goes where you want it to.

agree.gif
I'm no thermal engineer but I don't think another layer of material in the location you're indicating would make that big a difference as most of what you'd be insulating is the hood skin.

76-914 found that his radiator setup was considerably cooler (15deg PLUS) with proper ducting from the radiator to his wheel wells.

I've been pushing that for years for good builds as I think it would make a big difference not in performance, but the ability to run a smaller radiator, and make a small useable portion of the front trunk. Its still something on my short list of projects.



Also, Love spot welders, That looks silly good!
tygaboy
Nothing like new metal. This after many years of no sill plates. Major milestone!
tygaboy
I was about to send a few pieces out to powder coat but, thankfully, remembered I needed to add brackets to the radiator support to attach the A/C condenser.

A few minutes designing and cutting and things are ready to weld.
ConeDodger
Did you say cup holders? blink.gif
tygaboy
I sure do get to play with some fun stuff, but boy, does it slow down progress on the 914.

This is an '84 Reynard Formula Ford that was converted to DSR and then to Formula 1000. At this point, it's woefully less than competitive in any of these classes. I'll be helping convert it into something else... More on that as progress is made.

I am making solid headway on the 914. It's back on the rotisserie to ease completion of the rest of the chassis welding, flares, etc.

And @914forme , it looks like I'll be moving ahead with installing the Tangerine rear pick up kit. I'll post details as that happens.
tygaboy
QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Oct 21 2019, 09:29 PM) *

Did you say cup holders? blink.gif


@ConeDodger - Yes, Rob, cup holders...
ConeDodger
Ok, Chris, if you do everything right, you will not be able to reach the cups from your seat(s). evilgrin.gif You’ll be pinned back! blink.gif
sixnotfour
thats the reward...like a cig after.......
dan10101
Dude! You rolled your car!

914forme
piratenanner.gif
tygaboy
I spent some time today and finished up the radiator/condenser mount. Now to work out all the A/C hose routing.
tygaboy
Tangerine Racing's raised rear pick up point kit install.

The kit raises the trailing arm pick up points 2". There's also a kit that raises things 3" but I opted for 2".

The reason for all this is to retain proper trailing arm geometry when the car is lowered. In combination with the raised upper shock mounts I already installed, I keep full shock travel and prevent situations where too much toe happens in the upper portion of the suspension travel.
Anyway, here goes...

And right away, there's no turning back!

The things I do for you @914forme
tygaboy
I love how instructions can make things seem so simple. In this case, @ChrisFoley offers:

"Step 2: Completely remove the stock inner and outer suspension consoles from the chassis."

OK, let's go! I mean, how hard can that be? Well, let me tell you - HARD. OK, so maybe not "hard", but for sure "time consuming"!

There is a LOT of material in the lower area, particularly where it ties into that support that connects the inner and outer mounts. And it's not easy to get Sawzall blades and cut off wheels in there.

All kidding aside, and to be clear, all of Chris' stuff is awesome, including his instructions!
tygaboy
Oh, the carnage!

And fear not, the car is on the rotisserie. Those jack stands and "spacers" are only to help stop it rocking when I'm cutting.
tygaboy
Passenger side inner mostly done.
FL000
I would be scared as hell cutting into my car like that - but I have total confidence in your work! Your car is coming along great.
tygaboy
QUOTE(FL 000 @ Nov 1 2019, 03:07 PM) *

I would be scared as hell cutting into my car like that - but I have total confidence in your work! Your car is coming along great.


Truth be told, I am a little scared! It really is a "no going back" sort of moment when you chop off the suspension ear. blink.gif

The little guy on my shoulder keeps whispering in my ear, "it's only metal..."
Let's hope he knows what he's talking about.
tygaboy
Passenger outer essentially ready.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2024 Invision Power Services, Inc.