I made up a new top cross bar because of I totally screwed up the angles of the end cuts as I was trying to final fit the first one I'd made. The joy of not using straight material is I had to duplicate the roll bend. Not that big a deal but it's another repeat effort and time spent that really gets me no further along. Ah, well...

Once that was done, I wanted to get some ideas for the filler plate so I made up a paper template. I measured it to get the dimensions for the plasma table's design software. Then I started messing with various design elements.

Here's the initial version, ready to cut.
The six little holes running across the middle are 'marker' cuts that simply locate where to drill for the lightening holes - you'll see once it's all done.

Result!

It's like cheating. I could never have done this by hand. Well, OK, I could have.

But it would look like crap!

Then it's trimming to fit all the inevitable nooks and crannies and little details that happened when I plated around the shock towers.

Next, the knock out punches and dimple dies.

And here's V1 of the filler panel!

Yes, the throttle body is off-center. I opted to live with that being the asymmetrical element, rather than something else. I'm toying with making a removable panel that has a tighter fit to the air cleaner tube. We'll see.

This thing will be epic!

That's friggin awesome looking! Nice work Chris!

Mee likey...

T

That is a badass intimidating touch!

Here's a V2 design. No, I won't be applying for a job as a Photoshop operator. All I have is MS Paint. Hey, it works well enough for me to test ideas.

Anyway, V1 had those cut outs that I wasn't sure I liked. Maybe a little too "hot roddy". Lightening holes seem more fitting.

Plus, with a physical example to play with and see from all angles, I decided I wanted to close up around the sides of the intake and get a bit more room under it. You can't see it but there was only about 1/4" - 3/8" clearance on the underside. I don't know how much the motor may move around but I want more room there.

This is one of the "fun" parts about design stuff: When to call it "done" and get on with other stuff that may actually get this car on the road!

At this point, I'll likely go with V2. Time for less and more and ! Oh, and some day:

Details, details. I don't have a dimple die the size of the of-cut outs that run across the top and bottom. Since I knew I was going to make a new panel, I figured I'd use this as a practice piece. I used he bead roller and tipped in a lip that I was hoping would match the dimples on the holes.

I think I was successful and IMO, without these, it looked incomplete. It's these sorts of things that REALLY finish off the look! I'm loving how this is turning out.

This was just practice and on the final version, I'll notch the corners of the dimples so they wrap the cross bar.

Can't wait to get started on the V2 design! I'm out of metal so the rest of this weekend is going to shop clean up - which is sorely needed.

(And wait 'til you see what's planned for the transmission support!)

I like the bead rolled edge. Recently saw a video on how to do it. Did you use the special dies? Coming along great, keep it up.

Chris - maybe I am looking at this wrong but I would like to see that as an enclosed panel...maybe you are doing that anyway. Make a duplicate in reverse and weld the seam. Understand?

T

I like the second one even better!

I did get the shop somewhat cleaned up but the car kept calling "Please work on me!"
I couldn't say no...

Before I weld in the top cross bar, I need to install some support pads. The fun part is the bar lands on the top of the inner fender, right smack on a compound curve.

I could do the 'tack, bend, tack' but I decided to "get fancy". First a bit of history:

Back in the fall of last year, I took a 3-day metal shaping class with Lazze at his place in Pleasanton, CA. It was a very cool class. You need to take it. But be careful: The only down side (as is Lazze's plan, I'm sure )is you come out of the class having used these awesome tools and, if you're me, you get home and obsess about having to have those very same tools. So yes, I treated myself to the bead roller, shrinker/stretcher and English wheel. I have to say, it's reeeeeealy nice stuff.

Back to today: So far, on this build, I've been able to leverage the bead roller and shrinker/stretcher but I've not yet had the occasion to need to use the English wheel. Well, when a compound curve is needed, it's the English wheel to the rescue!

I made up a little curve template, grabbed a piece of scrap and went to town, hoping I'd remember what I learned in class.

Seems like I did. It fits just so!

This may not be much to look at but it's one of the pieces I'm most proud of. Why? Well, you can't fit that small a part in the wheel. I had to "get it right" while this piece was part of a much larger sheet of steel. And I need it to be correctly curved before being able to test fit it. So essentially, I only had one chance to trim it correctly.

And once it's installed, virtually no one will ever notice.

(Now I get to do it again on the other side...! )

Funny... one of my longest posts and it about the smallest piece I'll probably fab.

Hi Tony. Yep, I know what you mean. From a structural perspective, doubling it as you're suggesting would certainly be stronger but even a one sided version will do a lot. With the other stiffening I have planned, it's not like I really need that panel so I'm viewing it as largely decorative. But yes, I have been toying with what you've suggested. It's really a matter of just how crazy I want to go - both as it relates to the build as well as a "doing this will make me CRAZY!" perspective.

If I do decide to go for "extra credit" stuff, I'll likely do it once the car is running. I'm starting to get worried that I'll never get it on the road.

Thanks for the kind words.
I used a sharp edged die on the top (to get a crisp edge that matched the dimple die) and a flat die on the bottom so I had something to bend against.

Panel design, V2. Maybe some day I'll get this design thing figured out a bit better and not have to "build, fit, trim, fit, realize there was a (few) incorrect assumptions and now do it all over again". As much as I like doing all this stuff, it'd be nice to get it right the first time and not build multiple versions.

I guess that's what experience is all about!

Anyway, if you compare V2 to V1, you'll see I changed the 'wings' quite a bit to close a gap between the top edge of the panel and the cross bar. And I moved and changed the shape of the intake tube hole to add a bit more interest. I also changed a couple dimensions so I won't have to do as much trimming/fitting.

I think the holes vs the cutouts will be more in line with the look I'm going for.

Hope to get it cut before the weekend.

Without trying it a few times how would you know which one was the best?


I like the holes a lot better! Rev 2 looks great!

Wow Chris the way you treated that panel was MASTERFUL! Love it man. I was wondering how you were going to get the shear forces to transfer from the top of strut to the lower portion of the strut! Well done!! I tell ya......you're giving me ideas. Looks wicked by the way

You two should just "get a room"...

LOL

T

Really nice work! I like the details.

I changed my mind! (Nothing new there...) I decided that I want to run the console the length of the tunnel, from under the front roll hoop to the firewall, so I started playing with designs.
Here's a reminder pic of the 'shorty' Version 1 again, along with the new design. Version 2 is taller up front to get the shifter to the desired height.

This is just brainstorming as I still need to work out things like where the cup holders will go...

Chris: Honestly, it looks a little busy (to me). Are all of those "lightening holes" going to be exposed? There can be elegance in simplicity, ehh? Maybe I would like it more as a completed unit...cut it out!

PS: How about adapting a similar design to the rear shock tower panel to the console? Cool as hell and aesthetically tied to other components...you are doing a great (great!) job. These are just my thoughts...pal.

T

I know what you mean. I'm still playing and as I've proven to myself time and again, I need to get a physical example in my hands, see it in place and then think on it before I land on what I like. All I know for sure is it won't look like it does now!

Keep the comments coming - your perspective is always appreciated.
Chris

Chris you're doing a great job and you did say you want the comments coming right? I'm with Tony, make it a little simpler. Maybe something that has a combination of lightening holes and triangles that reveals a strut form. It seems too ornate. But heck if I had access to that plasma cutter I'd probably make something that looks like bad freeway art......you know like something that could be found in an Aztec pyramid.

Yep, yep, it'll be simpler. And speaking of things one can make with a plasma table, here's a sneak at something I'll be cutting soon.
A 4 foot tall crest! I plan to hang it in my office.
I'm cutting it in layers so the various elements will stand off the background of the crest.
Should be pretty cool. If I can fit it, I'll bring it to the WCR in June!

Please make a second copy for my hauler or shop...I won't charge you for my criticism - even trade!

Tony

I was swamped at work this week so didn't get any after-hours shop time so spent part of today completing V2 of the panel. The plasma table is just so cool!

Here's the panel after trimming/fitting. It looks so much better with the top line following the crossbar arch all the way across.

I'm REALLY happy with how I got it to fit. Nice and tight:

Then it was back to the knock-out punches and dimple dies. I did the same bead rolled tip edge on the large top and bottom openings.

I am so much happier with this design over the first one. The shape of the intake opening, the fact that the opening stays within the panel. Much better.

So I've proved yet again that I need to get a look at things in place on the car vs. on a computer screen. Maybe I'll get better at this. It'd sure be more efficient, both in time and cost.

So if you couldn't tell, I really like this piece.

(Know anyone who wants to buy V1? )

Badass - love it!

T

The stuff you can do with a plasma cutter...

Looks great! I agree the center console is a bit complex but it does look strong

I, too, think that initial console design is messy. Im redoing it and will post once V2 is ready for its debut.

Most of today was spent reorganizing the shop. It had gotten to the point where I could barely get around. Much better now.

So not much to report other than starting to work up the design for the rear trans mount. Having moved the drive train forward, there's more leverage on the existing trans mounts so I want to add the rear mount. Probably not really needed but I like to have a little insurance, just to be sure.

I'm still at the "hmmm, maybe this would work..." stage. These low bars will be triangulated with bars that run from the top are of the shock towers and tie into them at the trans cross brace. It may be that the top bars extend to the rear mount and the low bars tie into them. And these are just pieces I had laying around so it's all up for grabs. As I said, I'm still playing with design while trying to account for things like a removable trunk liner, etc. Fun all around!

Uh oh, this can't be good...

I think I may make panel V3. This one would be aluminum plate cut on a water jet, just like the shorty console plate. It would bolt to bosses welded to the cross bars and shock towers. It'd be a way bigger deal to do but...

I'm thinking I'd back it up with a carbon fiber panel.

Yes, I know I'll eventually need to decide and move on. But this design makes it far simpler for me to seal up the trunk area and keep (most of) the heat away from the intake and top, when it's stored.

We shall see.

Love the flourishes. Shows a confident build.

In planning the rear trans mount, I opted not to use the stock Boxster mount, nice as it was, all cast aluminum and all. It positioned the attachment point high. So I'm playing with designs for a mount that will keep everything under the height of the stock trunk floor's level.

This time, I'm going to try cutting the whole part and folding the sides and top into position for welding.

Back at you! Your motor mount fab (very nice, btw...) inspired me to give the folding a try.

Last night, I cut and folded the rear trans mount. Here it is, before seam welding. And it turned out just like it was supposed to... Thing is, I don't like it. Too bulky, bigger than it really needs to be.

So January closes with another "let's do it differently on the next one!"
At least I'm consistent!

As long as I had the plasma machine fired up, I figured I'd play with a design for load distribution/attaching the lower stiffening bars. These would have sheet metal closing in the tops.

I may mock up a design that uses these pieces on the outside of the bars but where the inner piece runs all the way across between them.

My first thought when I set these in place was "Holy holes, Batman!"

I need to be careful of a couple things:
1. Too much of one design element and,
2. Creating a bunch of nooks and crannies for crap to get into

another

And here's the new rear trans mount design. It's more compact and I think looks better, too. Function and form... Win-win!

I have most of the rear trunk modification pieces figured out and cut or at least roughed out. Now it's time to permanently install everything. It's turning out that the first piece that has to be welded in is the Tangerine Racing raised rear shock tower kit. So here I go...

First, I have to give a shout out to Chris Foley at Tangerine - great products and even better support. Every time I've called, he's answered the phone and been more than willing to spend as much time as I needed to answer my questions.
VENDOR OF THIS BUILD, for sure!

Anyway, I copied Stephen's (914forme) approach and welded in a disc with a pre-drilled hole just to help. Then it's hole saw away, trying not to have my arms ripped from my body when it grabs.

The only thing I could think once the first one was done was "Well, I'm committed now..."

I'm bouncing around between the shock towers and rear trans mount.
The final design for the mount used a different top piece. Better all around.

Rear trans mount when you have those beefy side mounts seems redundant but hey thats half the fun, right?

Hey Chris I too wonder if that support is required. Regardless though it does look trick. I'm thinking that if your tranny came off a 911 then you probably don't need it. However I'd leave it just cause it looks so good and you can never go wrong in over engineering. Sometimes belts and suspenders are good.

Hey Chris! You fab skills are awesome! I was wondering if you had considered putting one new support "tube" across the width of the trunk about 12" in front of the existing factory structure that the stock trans bolts to? It would be directly above the black bar that is already mounted to your Boxster trans. The tube could be welded to part of the shock towers as well. It would simplify you mounting and maybe save some weight. You could even elminate...dare I say all of the beautiful creations you have between the shock towers. Thats the minimalist me. I know you have a serious amount of time in the mounts/ bracketry . It just seems like that black trans "adapter" bracket is a working too hard for such an amazing custom build. XO brother.

The existing mounts extend back from the cradle to connect to the stock transmission hanger mount location. I added those 1.5" spacers, which creates added leverage on the cradle mount. While it's probably not absolutely needed, I'm adding the rear mount as insurance.

Thanks, Andy. I want some sort of panel in there so that'll be staying. But your idea about the additional cross bar has me thinking of ways to get the "insurance" of additional support without having to extend past the stock trans mount. That'd give me a cleaner overall design and more trunk space. I've been thinking of how I may be able to carry a space saver spare somewhere (other than strapped to the roof!) and I wonder if your suggestion may open a door for that.

And to all, y'all: I'm a fan of brainstorming and throwing around ideas so please, keep the comments coming! I need all the help I can get.

So use the one you made at the rear of the trans and the new cross beam directly over the black bracket. How much support does the stock Boxster or 911 use to hold that trans up?

You might look at a Boxster spare tire. They are tall and very skinny. They are much newer than the collapsible old cracked space saver and are always inflated. I have one in my car if you'd like to try it on for size or have some measurements.

Before I can close up the firewall, I need to add some beading to the panel to prevent it from oil canning and to add some visual appeal. I'm just starting to play with designs.
The left side is, again, maybe to 'hot roddy' so I started thinking about maybe trying to make it look more factory-ish. The lines on the right side are just to give me an idea of how that width would look.

Out comes the trusty laser level (note the professional stabilizing mount! ). I figured I'd start by projecting the shapes on the upper firewall onto the lower area. It's kinda neat that, if I do this, I'll have a nice "V" on the panel - a nod to the LS3!

And, in typical "I didn't really think this through" fashion, since I already bent the flanges, I can't fit this already done-and-fit lower firewall into the bead roller. I'll be making another...

Remember: Pants first, THEN shoes.