Scott PORSTI Fame made a set of string holders for his car, pretty slick, well with in your talents.

Enjoy Chris

There's another version here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1808793

I don't see Chris doing PVC.

I do see him, building the entire thing out of Aluminum using A CNC laser cutter, then TIG welding the brackets. Then making it all fit in a USPS flat rate box and selling the kits all over the world to people who want the best.


The nice thing about PVC it is simple, the bad thing is it bends. I know it is all reference, and as long as it is square and equal off center you are good. What I don't like is the lack of artistry it takes to make them. Ingenuity maybe but no artistry.

Chris I already have this drawn up in my head, hard anodized please with mill cut reliefs and radiuses edges.

You can read my mind right

You forgot that he would go through 4 design trials and still wouldn't be happy with it

Thought the same thing. However, I should point out that the design I linked uses steel conduit for the bars. He just used PVC fittings to hold stuff together. Chris can always sub titanium and carbon fiber as need.

I called my Mom and (sniff), told her the other boys were (sniff, sniff) picking on me...

No sniffing in the garge. You are rocking this.

Back on post #2026, I speculated that I'd make a thinner "large stainless washer" to help with outboard tire clearance. I decided I would go ahead with that.

Here's a comparo. Note the one I made is fresh off the plasma table and will be dressed and deburred, but you get the idea. Thinner means the trailing arm moves inboard by the difference.

Frankly, when I look at the Elephant install instructions, I wonder why I need this at all. I have a call in to Elephant to ask if I can just eliminate it altogether. When you see how this contraption goes together, you see there's a shoulder on the pivot shaft that ends up bolted hard against the washer anyway.

Why can't I just let it go hard up against the inner ear of the new suspension console? It's not a bearing surface...

Yes, I know there'a an overall width dimension but if I make it up on the other side, why wouldn't that be OK?

You beat me to it!!!

Triple double checking all the measurements. In order to do that, and because I'm running late Carrera hub-centric hubs, I have to install the axles in order to ensure there's no play in the position of the wheel.

To do all this work, you have to climb in and out from under the car 3486 times. How may times did I smack my head on the inner CV joints? I don't know because I have amnesia from multiple blunt force head traumas... (literally = )

OK, so here's the final, final before committing to fully welding everything.

No shims, deal level.

1.7 and 1.6 degrees negative camber.

I have to say, I can't believe how evenly this all turned out. Not bad for an amateur... I'll take it!

I used 4 jack stands on a Corvette at Lemans Classic,,,this guy was laughing , but he was slower..427 corvettes...

great documentation..welder up

That would be cool. I'll take one.
@ChrisFoley

And in case you were wondering why I made those thinner stainless washers or why I want to run without them. 16 x 9 with 245s, no wheel spacers.

I suspect I'll want to roll that remaining lip, regardless.

As I said earlier: She is one wide girl!

I was able to speak with Chuck at Elephant Racing late this afternoon. He verified my suspicions: The reason for the "large stainless washers" is to provide a smooth thrust surface for the bronze bushing.

Remember, the Elephant kit assumes it's being installed in a standard 914, where the inside surface of the suspension console has that serrated area that would foul the edge of the bronze bushing.

So... given the Tangerine kit has this nice, smooth, flat surface on both ends, I can safely eliminate these things, move the trailing arm inboard that little bit more and gain a smidge more outer tire clearance! Maybe i can get away without rolling the flare.

I simply have to make up the dimensional change on the other end of the trailing arm pivot shaft. No biggie.

@914forme - Stephen, I suspect you're pretty self sufficient re: fabbing stuff, but if needed, I'd be happy to cut you a set of these stainless washers. Just let me know.

^ Car is gonna look good.

3,488

You could just put 2 washers on one side and not have to do anything Chris

Jeff - Ha! I stopped counting at 3237 so 3486 was just a guess. Maybe it was closer to your #! And yep on on the washer location.

One other question: I haven't yet measured it but I have what seems like too much side-to-side trailing arm movement. I asked @ChrisFoley and he suggested .010. When I spoke with Elephant, they said they like .030.
If needed, I can machine the shoulder of the Elephant shaft to tighten it up to get whatever I want.
Any experience /suggestions with this?

First put the big thick washers back in on both sides and cinch everything up tight. Make sure you are not bottomed out on the end of the stud threads.

If its still lose of rocks -

Unscrew the stud from the shaft chuck it in a lathe and spot face it or hit it with a file just make sure its square. Just need to touch it, don't want to crush the bronze. 0.10 is right.

Also get everything mounted up snug and check the poly bushings in the trailing arm bores to see if they rock a little. The trailing arms bores were most likely drawn on a mandrel and some are lose, others tight. Get the arm horizontal and rock it back and forth laterally. If its lose you will see what I mean by feel. If its super lose you can use thin shim stock as a sleeve inside the bore around the poly like a wrap. Little dab of JB at 6 and 12 o'clock to keep it in place inside the bore. If you go that way don't forget to drill the hole through the shim for the zerk fitting.

Easy way is to make a big collet out of some round tube, slice it half like a clam shell and squeeze the training arms bores a bit like holding a baseball bat.

When I installed Chris's kit I built additional camber into the pick-ups figuring that I could always add more shims.. but I cannot take out no shims. If a day comes when you want more than 1.6 degrees of camber, it wouldn't hurt to have it available.

Also, be aware of the toe curve and be sure to have the adjustable range you want at the ride-height you intend to run.



I love keeping up with this build--thank you for the play-by-play.

Jeff - I'll check all the items you mentioned. Given what I've seen so far, I think just the pivot shaft and the fix will be removing the appropriate amount off one end.

I'll report back on the solution once I'm sure what's needed.

@dr.tim - All measurement checking was done at my best estimate of target ride height. And re: toe, it was done with the trailing arm mount in the middle of its adjustment range.

I appreciate the reminder as it's uber critical to be sure you're keeping track of all the variables as this kit is going in. I happily confess, at the end of each work session during this install, I'm mentally exhausted.

NOTE to others doing this install
The sleeve that aligns the two sides of the fixture does have a bit of movement. Let's be fair: it's a tube slipped into a tube, not a precision milled clamping device. And it works just fine. That said:

When the fixture is in the car and the car is right side up, any play in the sleeve sags the inside of the two parts downward, "adding" negative camber.

If your car is on a rotisserie, and you work on it upside down, any play "removes" negative camber. I need to combat that on all fronts!

Jeff measured 1.375 and 1.5 negative camber ahead of final welding. I have 1.6 and 1.7. My chassis will never be a race car so this seems well in range for me.

That said (and save your "Dude, that's a bit hillbilly!" comments. I know it is), based on the static measurements I had ahead of final welding, I wanted to "encourage" any welding-induced distortion to add negative camber and toe in.

So, to encourage the toe, I used a small spacer between the fixture and that bar clamped to it. For camber, the 4x4/floor jack removes the play at the sleeve and helps camber stay where it is, maybe add a bit more as it's being welded. And it's not like the car is supported by it! It's just pushing out any sleeve play, plus a bit of force.

Finally, as mentioned, the weld sequence is outside/top, inside lower to further encourage negative camber.

I like the solution! Very simple and effective!

You dont want to know my plan for fixing some twist in my chassis if you think this is "redneck"

@Andyrew asked "Make the Noise....!"


OK! OK! Volume UP, everybody!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPMOtSBjgpk

Well, OK then!

My TIG skills seem to be improving every day. It's always fun welding .125 wall tubing to .050 sheet metal. The long is double layer in this area but there are random, small gaps between the walls so things will be going well and all of a sudden "BOOM"! Hole blown.
But this section went well. But you'll see no pics of the couple of minor spots that didn't!

Most all of these areas get covered up with the sheet metal support structure so no biggie on how they look, so long as they are strong.

Best of all is that after welding all the seams, I installed the trailing arms and the camber checks the same as before final welding. HOO f-ing RAY!

Getting the first of the sheet metal components trimmed and fit. This one is almost ready for final welding.
I can't say enough about this Tangerine product!

On a less happy front, the latest biopsy from my face came back as melanoma. Surgery is scheduled for December 23. Merry Christmas to me...
That said, this latest spot (this is #3 on my face) is the absolute earliest stage melanoma can be, so there's that.

As I said to the Dr.s who did my earlier surgeries: "Scars on my face simply add to my already ruggedly handsome good looks."

Dude, I think I can speak for all of us... You're good looking enough, so stop with all this crap!.

Seriously, We're behind you, (hopefully way behind you..)

No, but really seriously, get back to work.

Humor is the best medicine..

X,O my brother. Sounds like you and your doctor are out in front of this. Crappy to get through, but you will. Keep on keeping on!

So sorry to hear about the positive biopsy's Chris.

Old motorcycle racing saying. Paraphrased but it pertains here:
The pain fades, bones mend, chicks will always dig scars, but the glory is forever!

This build is awesome and will be a legend for a long time to come. Mohs on the face shoudln't put you out for too long. You'll find "clean" work to do while you're bandaged and waiting for the stitches to come out.

Chris,
Prayers headed your way. Keep on keeping on with your amazing build! I know you will beat this like a red headed stepchild. We got your back!

Hi Chris - Very sorry to hear about that. I am glad they caught it in the earliest of stages and I am sure they will be able to excise and treat it so you are as good as new. As we age these are the things we all have to deal with. Best wishes and I hope to see you soon.
Michael

You caught it early and that's the important thing!!




Also, can't wait to see that rear suspension done

Mend quickly my friend. Your on top of this. Nothing but the best wished your way. Sounds like your in capable hands.
Besides you need a little vaca :-) We all know you work hard.

Thanks for the kind thoughts, everyone.
As this is the 3rd time for facial skin cancer surgery for me, I'll say (thankfully!) it's not that big a deal. I've been on an 'every 6 months' full body check since my first melanoma and we've been watching this particular spot for just over a year.

It's very early and should be a quick fix.

Again, thank you. It's great to have your support!

Now, let's get back to the build!

Hope you cover up with good safety equipment. Lots of the stuff you like to do produces the side effects of UVs.

I myself battle a terrible UV burn on my left hand, it is my resting hand when Mig Welding, and after a bit, even with heavy gloves I have to stop, and after a long day, it is Silver Paste on the hand, and let it stay on all night.

Best of luck Chris, your thoughts are with us. Easy procedure, yes, but the healing can become an issue if the sight is not keep clean.

Use the time to draw up some cool CAD stuff for the plasma to cut, or research you next tool to make me

You mentioned this when we saw each other, and had such a great attitude about it—and so much else!—that I was really impressed, and uplifted, by it. And you. And the good news is indeed it was caught early and is a quick fix.

So you can back to your not so quick fixes on that 914 of yours.... ....which also inspired me.

pete

Chris...best of the Holidays, and most of all Best of health to you ! Looking forward to 2020 and seeing your machine hitting the streets
Marty

Sharp eyed folks may have noticed that as I was trying to get the pick ups located correctly so the wheels are positioned in the center of the flares, I trimmed too far forward into the longs and ended up with this gap that needs filling.

So I cut a couple elliptical gusset plates and bent them to fit. Problem solved.

Yes, the gussets will be welded all the way around.

The first of the driver side sheet metal support plates are trimmed and (mostly) welded in.

There are a number of options for how these two pieces can be fit. I opted to slice a slot down the length so the plate would sit down around the long's pinch weld flange and fit flush against the long at that forward edge.

I then welded along the slot, fusing the plate to the pinch welded flange of the long.

And I have to say, I don't know how Jeff Hail was able to do his install without a rotisserie.

It's been difficult even WITH the rotisserie!

Let me back up and show some details as I work on the other side.

Here's the "end cap", as I've taken to calling it. It wraps around to close off a small-ish, vertical opening that's left in the long after the pick up is fit.

It's pretty simple in that it goes where it goes. I only sanded a couple spots to get it to fit. Here it is tacked in.

Then there's the "top cap" (even though it's the bottom part. Hey, the car is upside down and it's my build. Deal with it. )

I haven't verified this w/ @ChrisFoley , but I suspect these pieces are used in both the 2" raise and the 3" raise kits. Since mine is the 2", you can see there's some trimming needed on that inside leg to get it to sit down where it needs to be.

Then, once that inside leg is trimmed, this piece collides with the long's spot welded flange. That's why I decided to cut that slot; to let the piece slide into place while retaining most of the flange.

Yes, I did grind away part of the flange. Essentially, the trimming of the flange goes from the level you can see in the slot to the same level as the edge of the "end cap". No reason to clearance more than needed. Just get the front end of the piece to sit flat against the long.

However - and I know this will come as a big surprise - the inner and outer pieces of the longs aren't in the same plane. At least not on my chassis.

So I have this nice gap on the outside.

To address this, I trimmed the pieces so I could tweak that outer part down until the front edge was in contact with the long.

Here's the two pieces all tacked, ready for final welding.

Chris, amazing work!!! I spent some time today on a slow clinic day catching up on your progress and this just blows me away. Thank you for all the documentation and for sharing all of your work. It is inspiring to say the least. I'll PM you in a bit on a separate topic....