@live free & drive - I had looked at vents in that same location. Even had it all drawn out on the hood. Those would be a ton simpler than Tony's because, like the center vent, those are "just" in the outer, open area of the stock hood frame structure. Hence their shape.

Tony's design will take substantial reworking of the hood support structure, at least. But isn't the cool stuff always more work??

Love the design of the hood exit!

With a proper shroud pushing the air up and to the side I doubt there will be any loss of airflow.


Good thing about this kind of thing, is it wont prevent you from finishing the engine install, and test driving the car. You can easily drive it with the hood off till you finalize your hood exit/shroud solution.

Also Chris I love the building the louvers into the chassis. If you make the shroud strong enough you can easily put a large duffel bag in the front.

Tony's design is sound, restructure of the hood is well, or could be the issue. I do not see it as an issue for you. It is opportunity.

since you have that small CNC machine and you have the skills to use it, ah just cut new hood structure in layers, and either molten bond them in Modren version of het and fire. Or do it out of Aluminum to keep it light, Rivet the layers together, you can discretely TIG them, and bond a skin of your choice over the top.

Make the side vents their own structure like you suggest. Good duck work, and proper exit in low pressure will insure decent cooling. Lots of math involved. Proper ratio requires decimals, but 2 to 1 ratio will work. Inlet open, after rad bigger, after fans even bigger. Fans at the ends of the runs would provide negative pressure through the entire system, make things a bit more efficient.

As always love the build and the ideas that come from it. Chris you do you, and keep

you are dealing with all sorts of fun math here, but to get it into simpler terms, do not forget a lot of your testing has been done. 4 years worth of it, all right here.. Find a good low-pressure are for the exit, and have hun.

In reality for us hobby level enthusiasts, it is a crap shoot unless you want to spend lots of time in CAD, and then have access to flow simulators. Even then your model has to be superb. LOL a few GO Pros, and some yarn, and tape, still a great set of tools for figuring out what is going on. There is a reason why they are still used today.

You know what would make this whole vent thing way easier?

1. Lose the fuel tank bulkhead, replace with "suitable" shock tower bracing
2. Fab the TonyVents (tm)
3. Design/fab the AndyrewDuct System (tm)
4. Build a custom shaped aluminum fuel tank
5. Fabricate hood

The nice thing is that, as @Andyrew points out, I can work on this as a separate project, perhaps mocking it up/proving it out on one of the parts cars, then fit it to my build...

EDIT: I take back the above. I just ran out to look at the car and I don't think all that would really help. The shock towers are what's really in the way. A bit more head scratching will be required!
Now, if it was a tube chassis with A-arms, that'd be a different story...

Do I get temp royalties for each degree of temp lost from the patented duct system?

@Andyrew - Nice try, but no. You're now a sponsor so you pay ME!

I've got the beer next time

Finished up all the plumbing in the console. All soft lines fabbed, pressure tested and installed.

I'm waiting for some components needed for the wiring so thought I'd attend to a couple items that just weren't doing it for me. Today it was the clamp for the GT headlight cable splitter.

The kit doesn't come with anything as it's not known where the splitter might be mounted.

Version 1 was a cheap-out move on my part, using a standard p-clamp that bolts to a threaded insert I welded to the underside of the inner fender.

Nothing really wrong with it as it's simple and light weight. Perfect for a race car but zero cool factor.

So a bit of mill work and I have a spiffy clamp that earns some style points and is more in keeping with the vibe I'm after.

It's the little things...

Did you work in Aerospace? That’s cool.

The reversed turbo forward headers prevent me from using the stock "on the valve cover" coil mounting locations. Plus, I'd like to hide as much stuff as possible.
After much "will they fit here? No. How about here? No...", I realized if I packaged them in pairs, vs as a group of four (as is typical), I'd have more locations to choose from.

So I designed, cut and bent up a test version "2-up" mount. Yep, this will work! I'll finish cutting the rest of them tomorrow and then go after the attachment points.

Getting closer! Nice coil bracket.

Passenger side coil brackets done and installed. Locating them on the engine cross bar nicely hides them, along with the plug wires.

RE: the driver side, I'm swapping to a different water pump, which also mounts on the engine cross bar. I'll need to get the new pump fit then determine what sort of room I have for the coils.

Of course, I could always mount the pump somewhere else...

One thing I (thankfully!) planned for is that in order to install the alternator, I need to get to a bolt that is essentially unaccessible - unless there's a hole in the firewall.

If you at earlier posts, you'll see a smaller hole that I'd designed into that panel when it was plasma cut. Today, I opened it up to final size.

A solid grommet seals the hole and is easily removable when I need to get to the allen head bolt.

OK, enough of the custom stuff for now. How about some actual Porsche parts?

911 e-brakes refurbed and installed.

Coils aren't to close to the headers?

@Andyrew - Nope. With the "up and back" headers, I have tons of room.

E-brakes all hooked up and working, though the passenger side cable stay has yet to be added.
Boxster rear calipers installed. A couple more brake line fittings to complete and all the hydraulic systems will be done.

That's a major to-do about to be crossed off the list.

Change of plan on the electronics. As I was getting ready to go on the Infinity Box wiring, it just seemed like I was running into limited packaging options and losing more interior space than I wanted to... so I sold it and will be using a more traditional chassis harness.

And as far as the steering wheel buttons, I decided I didn't want a curly cord set up. I opted to go with this:

Summit Technologies "Raptor Pro". It's an 8-channel wireless button set up where each button controls a separate solid state relay. Each button can be programmed to be momentary, latching or flashing.

With this set up, I can eliminate essentially all the switches from the dash. It's super sanitary; no wires, not even hardly a bump on the back side of the wheel.

The kit comes with colored graphic labels for the buttons - turn signals, horn, lights, high beam, flash to pass, wipers, etc. I need to settle into which buttons I want to do what then I'll get things labeled.

Note that the pic doesn't really reflect how things look when seated in the car. The top buttons do block a bit of the lower area of the outer gauges but not the operating ranges of the gauges so I think it'll be fine.

Boy, I love what you're doing Chris. I am about to install almost identical SpeedHut gauges. I'm curious why you're running Speedo on the left side?

Oscar

@ValcoOscar - Thanks, Oscar. A couple other folks asked that and to be honest, I just wasn't paying attention when I put them in the panel! But now, given this build, I figure the more stuff that isn't like stock the better.

Plus, I'm running an LS3 so I'm going to claim LS now stands for "Left Speedo"!

Better than "Left Standing" Carry on...love this thread.

Oscar

Chris I love the gauges. Man you are getting close to driving that down the road.

Chris - I like the "mannatino" approach; although those 4 upper buttons (the horns!) would bug me as you'll be peering around them at the main gauges. But a man of your skills could simply redesign the mounting plate.....!

- Tony

That steering wheel switch setup is just way to cool

My wife and I took the GTS to lunch in Tomales. She had all my attention (my wife, not the GTS! ) until these two showed up! Both nice guys and the driver of the GT3RS offered me a ride. I had no idea who he was so, being old and safety minded, I politely declined. Plus, the whole physical distancing thing... note I have my mask on.

Anyway, it seemed like all the 911s were out. On top of these, there were 2 other late model Carreras and a Turbo. Porsche Friday in Tomales!

Once home, I fabbed up the driver side coil mount. The water pump is on this side so I opted to design a new mount that bolts to the block.

Then I made another mount for the remaining two coils that picks up four of the mounting bosses on the block and connects to the other mount. In the end, it's pretty tidy and totally hidden, which was just what I was after.

I really like the block mounted location for the coils so I cut and bent another one for the passenger side. With the starter in the way, I could mount only two on the block so I left the other pair on the engine cross bar. I'll redo the cross bar mount by welding in a threaded insert and close off the hole on the other side.

Next on the list is to make up the plug wires. One done here, seven to go.

VERY clean!!!!!

I have a few more fabrication and welding items to do in the engine bay, plus H20 system plumbing of the pump and engine, so I pulled the drive train for what I hope is the last time before this thing runs and drives.

With one small modification, I was able to remove this whole thing as an assembly!

I'd never seen it all together, out of the car and thought some of you would be interested to see it like this. If I didn't know, I'd bet there'd be no way it'd fit in a 914.

Beautiful.

Even seeing photos of it in the car I would still tell you there's no way it would fit in a 914

That engine is insane. Love the pipes, like a 60’s indy/F1.

Wow! Your right it does look like it wouldn't fit. What is that sled thing it's sitting on?

@Krieger - Hi Andy! I took one of those ATV jacks and extended it, then added a U-channel at the front that cradles the engine mount/cross bar.
As you can see, it supports the assembled drive train and makes installation and removal a one-person job.

A couple more items off the to-do list:
I got the ECU mounted and started playing with wiring, then added a couple simple braces that will serve as the base for the battery mount.
I allowed for use of a larger battery, in the event this tiny one doesn't cut it.

And no, that's not the box for it, it's just something to set it on to test various locations and orientation.
@markhoward Mark Howard is running this battery in his Camaro and it works for him so I figured I'd give it a try, but again, with an insurance policy!

I fabbed a fancy "fit around the bar and sit at an angle" bracket for the radiator cap/tank.

This unit comes as part of the Renegade kit. It's a nice piece and it's generally mounted by bolting it to the fire wall.

Well, clearly, they didn't get the memo that there's no way I'm drilling holes in my firewall!

I carved out a section of it so it'd wrap the bar, too. And yes, all the hoses clear everything.

Looks like to me there’s two sections of exhaust pipe that would fit some turbos in real nice. Can you post more pictures of your lift system. I was just thinking about that the other night how am I going to do this by myself.y

This whole build is just so "next level."

Really fun to watch and try to understand what exactly is going on here(?)

@djway - Here's the lift. Again, take one ATV/motorcycle lift and extend it. It works great.

Just curious, would those headers fit / or hit the cv/axle shafts if you ran them "under" instead of "over"?

Amazing Chris!

Thank you

@dakotaewing - No, these can't work in that orientation. They are "turbo forward" headers and yes, I screwed around to see if they would fit as you mention. They run into the block well before the flange is near seating on the head, they interfere with the starter, etc, etc.

Prior to going with this style, I bought a set of stock Corvette (LS3) cast iron exhaust manifolds. Unlike the similar Camaro style, the Corvette version locates the collector in the middle vs at the end, and at a more advantageous angle, allowing more room to get the exhaust turned up to clear the axles. If I ever built a "low" exhaust, I'd use them.

Hi,

I copied Chris's engine lift design.

Works great.

I used 06 corvette manifolds and ran over the axles.

David

@Larmo63 - Glad to hear you're enjoying the madness. If you do figure out what's going on, please let me know!
From the beginning, this build was based on my favorite Monty Python line:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Eyx_DhepDg

And credit where credit is due:
I copied @andys Andy's lift design. See post #9 on this page for good pics and a much tidier execution!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=204625&hl=

Thanks for sharing, Andy!

During this build, I've had to start from scratch and learn a number of skills, including welding, metal forming, fabrication, CAD and CAM software, a new plasma table, etc.

Next, apparently, will be my nemesis: WIRING.

The EFI engine harness that came as part of the ITB kit is designed for an "engine in front". Many/most of the pre-terminated connectors are too long or too short and much of the messy stuff is at the rear of the engine, which is the main view of it in my car.

My OCD simply can't tolerate all this messy wiring.

I contemplated trying to modify the kit harness but after talking with the Techs at Holley (it's a Holley HP ECU and harness), I opted to start over with an un-terminated kit.

What was I thinking?

Well, I figured out most of the other stuff, I'll figure this out, too.