Full Version: BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Tygaboy's '75 LS3
Pages: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93
This is what I found unacceptable. Anyone need an LS3/Holley HP Engine harness?
I started with a mock up of routing for the injector harness. Again, the kit, as delivered, is designed for the stock LS3 intake, not ITBs, so the injector harness loom was too short in places and forced the main connector to be at the back of the engine.
This unterminated injector harness kit will allow me to hide the connector at the front.
Way mo' betta!
This unterminated injector harness kit will allow me to hide the connector at the front.
Way mo' betta!
I finished the day by completing the plug wires. All nice and hidden from view.
In the end, I'm trying for the "no wires visible" look across the entire engine. I'll likely have a few but it'll be far cleaner than what it was and should look pretty tidy.
In the end, I'm trying for the "no wires visible" look across the entire engine. I'll likely have a few but it'll be far cleaner than what it was and should look pretty tidy.
With all the fancy cool tools you have you possibly could fab up some wiring covers that attached to the engine hide the wires and add even more I candy. Just a thought.
Man, that is looking pretty. Of course the wiring was going to be next level stuff. 
Wow! Next level stuff for sure!
Are the wires long enough that you wont have to join any wires? I suspect that you'll add plugs as needed and pin wires?
Im just curious if you've subscribed to the solder vs crimp method for wire connection.
Are the wires long enough that you wont have to join any wires? I suspect that you'll add plugs as needed and pin wires?
Im just curious if you've subscribed to the solder vs crimp method for wire connection.
QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 28 2020, 06:27 AM) 
Wow! Next level stuff for sure!
Are the wires long enough that you wont have to join any wires? I suspect that you'll add plugs as needed and pin wires?
Im just curious if you've subscribed to the solder vs crimp method for wire connection.
@Andyrew Andrew - Yep, all the wires are plenty long so it's a simple matter
of determining the physical layout then pinning the wires for each connector.There are some wires that need to be joined. For example, the red power leads in the injector harness get joined/soldered along the run so they terminate in a single wire at the harness connector.
All the connectors and associated pins/seal are provided with the various wiring kits I'm using and are either metri pack, Weather Pack or Deutsch. I have all the appropriate crimpers/jaws and de-pinning tools needed to assemble them.
No soldering on any of those connectors. Deutsch even calls out soldering isn't recommended. I'll take their guidance.
"...being old and safety minded, I politely declined..."
Goes back to cramming LS3 into go-cart.
Goes back to cramming LS3 into go-cart.
QUOTE(tygaboy @ May 28 2020, 07:18 AM)
QUOTE(Andyrew @ May 28 2020, 06:27 AM)
Wow! Next level stuff for sure!
Are the wires long enough that you wont have to join any wires? I suspect that you'll add plugs as needed and pin wires?
Im just curious if you've subscribed to the solder vs crimp method for wire connection.
@Andyrew Andrew - Yep, all the wires are plenty long so it's a simple matter
of determining the physical layout then pinning the wires for each connector.There are some wires that need to be joined. For example, the red power leads in the injector harness get joined/soldered along the run so they terminate in a single wire at the harness connector.
All the connectors and associated pins/seal are provided with the various wiring kits I'm using and are either metri pack, Weather Pack or Deutsch. I have all the appropriate crimpers/jaws and de-pinning tools needed to assemble them.
No soldering on any of those connectors. Deutsch even calls out soldering isn't recommended. I'll take their guidance.
So long as the crimp is good I agree without soldering. I soldered most of mine and then I FILLED it with super glue so that it wouldnt move, and then finished it up with the shrink wrap and wire sleave.
I will say thats going to be a TON of pinning... That pinning and depinning tool will pay for themselves in stress..
I will say Depinning for me is a PITA. I can never get it right..
@Andyrew - This is my first go with wiring and I did end up purchasing all the needed crimpers and de-pinning tools. After the first couple, everything went fine. I'm assuming you have the correct tool for the connectors?
I ended up having to get 4 different de-pinners to work with the various types of connectors I have across the different harnesses. But as a tool whore, I'm OK with that!
Anyway, here's my crimp vs what the instructions say it should look like.
Let me just say: There is absolutely nothing like having the right tools for the job!
I ended up having to get 4 different de-pinners to work with the various types of connectors I have across the different harnesses. But as a tool whore, I'm OK with that!
Anyway, here's my crimp vs what the instructions say it should look like.
Let me just say: There is absolutely nothing like having the right tools for the job!
A few down, a few hundred to go! And the diagram you see there is just the engine harness. After that, I have the entire chassis harness to make.
I'm hoping this evolves into a Zen-like process vs one of tedious repetition.
But so far, it's going just fine.
I'm hoping this evolves into a Zen-like process vs one of tedious repetition.
But so far, it's going just fine.
Wow. 
Wishing you a Zen like state of mind.
I was trying to figure out what pinning was earlier.
You go mate! BTW I love the pic of the pipes with the awesome colours showing off the plating.
Wishing you a Zen like state of mind.I was trying to figure out what pinning was earlier.
You go mate! BTW I love the pic of the pipes with the awesome colours showing off the plating.
A Zen Tool for the Tool Whore 
Click to view attachment
Question about the lift, built as it is would it be pretty much universal as long as there is a cross bar up front?
Click to view attachment
Question about the lift, built as it is would it be pretty much universal as long as there is a cross bar up front?
That looks all about right. I found that I would often forget the weather sealed or at the very worst pin the first one into the plug and forget all the stuff on the back side of the wire such as the shielding or the heat shrink.
Biggest problem that I found with the tools was that it did not crimp correctly now mine look slightly different than yours in regards to the actual pain and have little fingers that supported the wire it would crimp the main portion correctly but it wouldn't crimp these two correctly. So I ended up doing most of it by hand with little needle nose.
I've probably done 200 of those pins. You can definitely get into a pattern with them.
Biggest problem that I found with the tools was that it did not crimp correctly now mine look slightly different than yours in regards to the actual pain and have little fingers that supported the wire it would crimp the main portion correctly but it wouldn't crimp these two correctly. So I ended up doing most of it by hand with little needle nose.
I've probably done 200 of those pins. You can definitely get into a pattern with them.
V1 of the injection harness complete. Well, almost complete. I still have to finish the ends of the wire wrap.
And what's with the "V1" comment? You know me. I need to see it to know if I'll like it. And while this harness is certainly serviceable, it's too visible, IMO.
I realized after I'd cut the wires to length that I can route them on the inside of the ITBs and only a small loop coming out to each injector would be visible.
So, V2 it will be. But I'm calling this one a success since I learned a lot and better understand the thought and build process I need to follow when building a harness.
Onward...
And what's with the "V1" comment? You know me. I need to see it to know if I'll like it. And while this harness is certainly serviceable, it's too visible, IMO.
I realized after I'd cut the wires to length that I can route them on the inside of the ITBs and only a small loop coming out to each injector would be visible.
So, V2 it will be. But I'm calling this one a success since I learned a lot and better understand the thought and build process I need to follow when building a harness.
Onward...
QUOTE(tygaboy @ May 20 2020, 03:38 PM)
Change of plan on the electronics. As I was getting ready to go on the Infinity Box wiring, it just seemed like I was running into limited packaging options and losing more interior space than I wanted to... so I sold it and will be using a more traditional chassis harness.
And as far as the steering wheel buttons, I decided I didn't want a curly cord set up. I opted to go with this:
Summit Technologies "Raptor Pro". It's an 8-channel wireless button set up where each button controls a separate solid state relay. Each button can be programmed to be momentary, latching or flashing.
With this set up, I can eliminate essentially all the switches from the dash. It's super sanitary; no wires, not even hardly a bump on the back side of the wheel.
The kit comes with colored graphic labels for the buttons - turn signals, horn, lights, high beam, flash to pass, wipers, etc. I need to settle into which buttons I want to do what then I'll get things labeled.
Note that the pic doesn't really reflect how things look when seated in the car. The top buttons do block a bit of the lower area of the outer gauges but not the operating ranges of the gauges so I think it'll be fine.
The transmission by the plasma cutter???? Any relationship here?
I like the diagram.
Chris you must be a new level of insane wanting to do a V2 of a wiring harness 
That harness looks seriously clean though, color me impressed.
That harness looks seriously clean though, color me impressed.
Looking Great 
When we were working on my microsquirt wiring and tried to get fancy we tried to use the heat shrink with the self-adhesive. Things were great for the first 1700 miles but we eventually had an issue on Pin 1 (power) that became a ghost in the system for a while. I was at that point that I became a fan of service loops. The heat shrink was pulling on the outer pins and it became an issue over time.
Here are some resources you will find interesting:
Professional Mil-Spec Motorsport ECU Wiring Harness Construction
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
Nasa insturctions
https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20b...s/frameset.html
Motec wire porn
https://zacperkins.com/1973-porsche-911t
Enjoy
When we were working on my microsquirt wiring and tried to get fancy we tried to use the heat shrink with the self-adhesive. Things were great for the first 1700 miles but we eventually had an issue on Pin 1 (power) that became a ghost in the system for a while. I was at that point that I became a fan of service loops. The heat shrink was pulling on the outer pins and it became an issue over time.Here are some resources you will find interesting:
Professional Mil-Spec Motorsport ECU Wiring Harness Construction
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
Nasa insturctions
https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20b...s/frameset.html
Motec wire porn
https://zacperkins.com/1973-porsche-911t
Enjoy
With the drive train moved 1.5 inches forward, I opted for these neat-o, super low profile fittings that allow everything to clear while still being super tidy. They are only 2.3" tall. Mezeire is the supplier, if you're looking for something like this.
I'm still waiting for a couple fittings but I was able to start building the H20 lines.
I'm still waiting for a couple fittings but I was able to start building the H20 lines.
Dude, it's getting close! I want to be there when you fire her.
QUOTE(tygaboy @ May 29 2020, 04:19 PM)
And what's with the "V1" comment? You know me.
Now I've kind of lost track on the engine, but is that one V8? 
QUOTE(bbrock @ Jun 3 2020, 07:37 PM)
QUOTE(tygaboy @ May 29 2020, 04:19 PM)
And what's with the "V1" comment? You know me.
Now I've kind of lost track on the engine, but is that one V8? @bbrock - Well aren't you the FunnyMan? But who'll be laughing when I unveil V10!
- battery tray bracing
- battery tray, with added lightness
- battery in place w/battery hold down bracket
I don't think I could have found a lower mounting spot. Fingers crossed it has the oomph to start the LS.
- battery tray, with added lightness
- battery in place w/battery hold down bracket
I don't think I could have found a lower mounting spot. Fingers crossed it has the oomph to start the LS.
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jun 4 2020, 04:09 PM)
- battery tray bracing
- battery tray, with added lightness
- battery in place w/battery hold down bracket
I don't think I could have found a lower mounting spot. Fingers crossed it has the oomph to start the LS.
Nice mounting bracket Chris! I'd be surprised if it can't handle the LS. Been using it lately to run my 61 Lincoln as I work on it. No problem starting that 430..
V2 of the injection harness nearing 50% complete.
I so prefer this routing. It's so much stealthier and far tidier than V1.
As much as I like how this build is turning out, I happily confess to being a little frustrated with my inability to "get it right" the first time. But hey, it's only time and money, right?
I so prefer this routing. It's so much stealthier and far tidier than V1.
As much as I like how this build is turning out, I happily confess to being a little frustrated with my inability to "get it right" the first time. But hey, it's only time and money, right?
Chris - that looks so much better - nice work!
- Tony
- Tony
We have a winner!
What harness? I only see the one over the trans! Very clean. Maybe you can sell your first version to recoup your cost.
I think he converted everything to Bluetooth:)
Where possible (and reasonably practical), I want to eliminate traditional hose clamp connections in favor of AN fittings. So on the expansion tank, the hose barb fittings were lopped off and AN bungs welded in. Martin's TIG work is just incredible...
Yes, it's true; I often go for form over function. So sue me...
Yes, it's true; I often go for form over function. So sue me...
Pretty!
Overkill, but Pretty!
Return style system, right? Thats the way it looks.
Is it higher than any other point in the system? Looks a tad low as I know those water jackets on the LS are bit high.
Overkill, but Pretty!
Return style system, right? Thats the way it looks.
Is it higher than any other point in the system? Looks a tad low as I know those water jackets on the LS are bit high.
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jun 8 2020, 07:30 AM)
Pretty!
Overkill, but Pretty!
Return style system, right? Thats the way it looks.
Is it higher than any other point in the system? Looks a tad low as I know those water jackets on the LS are bit high.
Hey @Andyrew - You know one of my favorite sayings is "There's no kill like OVERKILL!"
And yes, the tank is the highest point by a fair bit.
QUOTE
"There's no kill like OVERKILL!"
That explains the decklid pivot weld build up..
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jun 8 2020, 08:17 AM)
QUOTE
"There's no kill like OVERKILL!"
That explains the decklid pivot weld build up..
@sixnotfour - I feel compelled to mention that was a PO or PO's "buddy who has a welder" repair...
Once I finalize the modified hinge set up, I'll be removing the stock hinges, mounts and that pile of steel boogers.
This seems like it'll take a while. While the chassis harness wires are labelled along their entire length, that's not the case with the engine harness; there are nothing to ID the wires except the diagram.
There are situations where the same colored wire is used for different inputs and some sensors share the same 5v output wire and ground wire. This is my first attempt at wiring a car, too.
I can't efficiently do the physical routing without being able to easily ID each wire so I'm labeling each one after first verifying it's connectivity from its end to its pin location in the connector that plugs into the ECU. I figure it'll take me another few hours to complete that step.
My wife thought she was quite funny when she came out to the shop, watched what I was up to and asked, "Wire you doing all that?"
Good thing she's cute.
There are situations where the same colored wire is used for different inputs and some sensors share the same 5v output wire and ground wire. This is my first attempt at wiring a car, too.
I can't efficiently do the physical routing without being able to easily ID each wire so I'm labeling each one after first verifying it's connectivity from its end to its pin location in the connector that plugs into the ECU. I figure it'll take me another few hours to complete that step.
My wife thought she was quite funny when she came out to the shop, watched what I was up to and asked, "Wire you doing all that?"
Good thing she's cute.
Time to invest in some printable heat shrink
The chassis harness arrived earlier this week. The first order of business is mounting the fuse panel. I figured since I'd already created a panel mount location in the passenger foot well for the V1 electronics, I'd fab a quick mount and see if this location might work.
It turns out this assembly protrudes a bit more than the earlier components so I'm going to redesign the mounting plate to move it up as high as possible. If I don't like that, I'll figure out a different spot.
It turns out this assembly protrudes a bit more than the earlier components so I'm going to redesign the mounting plate to move it up as high as possible. If I don't like that, I'll figure out a different spot.
Make sure you save room for your ducts and venting for any future AC/heat components.
Also you've got the right idea on labeling the wires now... Makes it so much easier to group and organize!
How about mounting it on the underside of the dash with a couple of hinges so it could fold down vertically?
Better. The new mount moves the panel up so there's very little encroachment into the foot well. And to @Andyrew 's earlier point, it does look like I'll have to modify that plastic heat/air duct in order to fit it.
I'll work up some sort quick releasable foot rest/cover for the fuse panel so it'll be nice and hidden.
I'll work up some sort quick releasable foot rest/cover for the fuse panel so it'll be nice and hidden.
QUOTE(Krieger @ Jun 11 2020, 11:42 PM)
How about mounting it on the underside of the dash with a couple of hinges so it could fold down vertically?
@Krieger - Andy - Great minds... I thought about some sort of fold up mount but abandoned it for the simpler fixed set up.
I cannot believe you opted for a simpler way of doing something. Who is this posting in my friend Chris's place and what have you done with him?
I need to merge the H2O lines coming from each cylinder bank back into one and get it routed down to the radiator return hose. After messing with a couple different commercially available Y-blocks, neither of which "did it" for me, I went ahead and designed up exactly what I need.
Take two 90 degree, 1.25" .065 wall aluminum tubes, same stuff I used for the hard lines in the frunk, do a bit of slicing and dicing, weld on the AN bungs and BOOM:
a custom water line collector!
I'm no fluid dynamicist but I have to believe this is better for flow than inlets that are 45 or 90 degrees to each other. Plus, it looks pretty cool.
Take two 90 degree, 1.25" .065 wall aluminum tubes, same stuff I used for the hard lines in the frunk, do a bit of slicing and dicing, weld on the AN bungs and BOOM:
a custom water line collector!
I'm no fluid dynamicist but I have to believe this is better for flow than inlets that are 45 or 90 degrees to each other. Plus, it looks pretty cool.
Niiiice. Also is that your tig welds??
QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jun 16 2020, 12:56 PM)
Niiiice. Also is that your tig welds??
Whoops - my design but nope, that's all Martin on the welds, just like on the overflow tank. I forgot to add a "thanks to Martin for his continued support and F-ing awesome TIG work!"
My TIG is coming along but when an expert is poking you saying "I'll do that for you...", it's hard to say no!
It seems today was all about the al-U-minium. First, with Martin helping on the water collector, then me finishing up the radiator support and shrouding.
While I will be temporarily installing some of the rivets ahead of paint, it'll only be those I can easily get behind to remove. I can't install any that attach panels to the tubing as if I removed them, the back side rivet parts would rattle around inside the tubes forever.
But some items must (and can) be "finished" as separate assemblies, so long as they get their finish done before the rivets go on.
Here's the powder coated and all finished rad mount with associated shrouding. I think it turned out really nicely.
Sharp eyes will notice these aren't pop rivets. They are the CherryMax structural rivets mentioned dozens of pages back. They retain their steel core and are WAAAAY stronger than the typical pop rivets. Overkill, as usual, but I have them for the fire wall and figured I'd use them here, too.
The tabs on the mount are for the AC condenser.
While I will be temporarily installing some of the rivets ahead of paint, it'll only be those I can easily get behind to remove. I can't install any that attach panels to the tubing as if I removed them, the back side rivet parts would rattle around inside the tubes forever.
But some items must (and can) be "finished" as separate assemblies, so long as they get their finish done before the rivets go on.
Here's the powder coated and all finished rad mount with associated shrouding. I think it turned out really nicely.
Sharp eyes will notice these aren't pop rivets. They are the CherryMax structural rivets mentioned dozens of pages back. They retain their steel core and are WAAAAY stronger than the typical pop rivets. Overkill, as usual, but I have them for the fire wall and figured I'd use them here, too.
The tabs on the mount are for the AC condenser.
A tool whore recommendation: If you have more than a few rivets to install, get yourself a pneumatic rivet gun.
This is a cheapie HF model but, holey moley, does it make quick work of this process.
Note that I'm holding the phone with one hand and completing the riveting with the other. Try that with a manual gun...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGJB818HY8
This is a cheapie HF model but, holey moley, does it make quick work of this process.
Note that I'm holding the phone with one hand and completing the riveting with the other. Try that with a manual gun...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGJB818HY8
I wondered whether or not you opted for a hydraulic squeezer. Those Cherry Max rivets are difficult to pull w/o one.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.