Uh Chris, your relays are so old school.

Here to help Try these

I used that set-up when I added FI to the engine in my -6. They work great, are small, and easily wired.
Click to view attachment

@914forme - Stephen, I'm a total newbie when it comes to all this electronics stuff and the guy helping me with the Arduino took care of ordering all the parts, incl. the relays. I'm quickly coming up to speed, but certainly have a way to go. So:

For my application, I need 8 relays. The only "nice" relay panels I seem to be able to find, like the one you pointed me to, all have spots for fuses, which I don't need or want, given I'm trying to conserve space.

Do you know of an 8 or 10 relay panel that's JUST for relays? I've searched the best I can but so far, all I find are the relay/fuse combos.

Continued help appreciated.

Hey Chris! Didn’t mean to be the bearer of doom...busy weekend though, I’ll give you a ring Monday.

This think can fit 10 micro relays. I’ve used them a few times and been happy.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46357/EATON...-2-0-1-0A-RFRM/

@Tygaboy Chris, Yes that would be the one.

"and any other tool whores looking for a neat item:
Here's the kit I went with. Note I am a total wiring novice so there may be better/more appropriate items available...
[/quote]


This Certified xxxx-whore has been pushing PowerProbe for years, wish I got commission on every sale

Mess 'o wires got you down? No problem - just hide them!

I worked up an initial version of a fuse panel cover. Only took three tries to get the bends to work out and have all the mounting holes align!

One plane on the left side (out of view in this pic) couldn't be formed as part of the main panel so I'll fab that and weld it in. Pics once that's done. Then it's on to making a foot rest that ties from the floor up to the lower mounts of this cover.

I get to see this car next weekend...

And here's the whole contraption in place. I need to get back to focusing on things that'll make it run.
I'm targeting Sept for its maiden voyage under its own power. Wish me luck!

Wow, very slick!

I used this range
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/mounting-bra...lar-system.html

Not sure if it is available in the states.

Here is a pic of my install in progress....


Click to view attachment

The electrics are centred underneath a hinged passenger side footplate.

You can see more in my Scottish Reincarnation thread.

Loving your build - oh for those fab skills......

@wysri9 @914forme @jd74914 - Thanks for the info, guys. As mentioned, I'm still early in my electrical learning curve. My requirement is for a panel that supports 8 - 10 relays while being as small as possible - and I don't need add'l fuses. After a bit of searching, it seems I'm best off building what I want from a base starting point.

I found the Bussman 15310. It's a 60 position panel that can be configured to support just what I need, with room to expand, should that need arise.

I happily confess I wasn't aware of the Micro and Ultra Micro relays and what they mean to the overall size of the final unit. It seems I can get what I need in a ~ 5" x 3.5" x 2.75" box. Yes, it'll sit taller once mounted with space for the harness, but it looks like my best option.

Critiques and guidance appreciated, as always.

More progress. Maybe not exciting to some of you, but VERY exciting to me as my build shows additional signs of life after all this time.

And ignore my comment about what the oil pressure gauge does. I had neglected to plug it into the harness. Once plugged in, it doesn't jump to full reading when first powered up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6bDw49JNjw

All those wires make my head hurt
That Power Probe really saved me a ton of headache, THANK YOU for the information.
Looking Good.

Nice! Keep crossing all those little details off your list!

Love the progress!!

That is some high tech stuff you got going on there! The steering wheel controls will be slick.

You're having entirely too much fun.

Are you going to compile an owner's manual so you'll know what's what when you're old and feeble?

It's 103 degrees in Petaluma today so what do I decide I need to work on? The HEATER, of course!

I saw the old thread about this and liked the set up that uses a '94 Mustang heater core as they "fit" inside the fresh air box. Well, OK, after some minor surgery, they fit...

I have a couple fresh air boxes so I figured if I screw this one up, I'll call it V1, claim it was practice, etc. Here's what I did:

First, chop off the raised area around the opening on bottom. Then clearance for the in/out water lines. Yes, I went way overboard on the clearance. I'll do better next time...

Once that's done, it turns out the heater core is a bit too deep - with the core pushed as far back as it can go, the front sticks out just enough that it doesn't allow the top to fit back on.

What to do? These boxes are made of ABS so I could cut the back, get some sheet ABS and use Acetone or JB Weld to patch it up. But that would be too easy.

I've never messed with ABS so some of you may know this but it turns out this stuff is pretty pliable, once you apply a bit of heat. So out came the heat gun.

I cut a piece of wood to the appropriate size and went (carefully) to town with the heat gun. Once the area I wanted to move was, well, movable, I pressed the wood into the desired position and held it there as the ABS cooled.

The clamps on the top edge are to keep it from coming out of shape from the heat and pressure.

And? We have clearance, Clarence!

And the backside. I'm really happy with how this worked out. Almost looks factory?

I did end up with a bit of distortion on the right and left sides so I can heat those and straighten them, or more probably, I'll do the whole procedure to another box, now that I know what to expect. And I can do a tidier job on the water line openings, too.

Will you ever run out of things to modify??

Crazy build thread.

For my next trick, I'm going to see if I can use the same approach to address the top piece. I cut this one to get an idea of just how far I'd need to move things.

Can I pull it off? It may be a bit of a stretch but I'll let you know...

Back to things needed to make it run. Today was completing the final engine-mounted coolant line.

With the drive train out, I have the access needed to weld one minor item to the chassis.
Then it's fill the trans and the drive train goes back in for the last time.

The to-do list is down to half a dozen relatively minor items and then I'll be ready to attempt the maiden fire start up!

The plan is to video and post the entire "let's see what it takes to get this mofo to run" process, not the fake one where things miraculously work. I will be enlisting a couple local friends to be here and man the fire extinguishers, just in case.

I'm thinking maybe this coming weekend. Wish me luck!

Hopefully the next time we come over we can hear that baby running.

Damn that looks good! So excited for you. I am now working on going to an LS on my V8 car. Just finished cleaning the engine bay for paint after Cary fixed the hell hole for me. My alternator is hung it the same place and I want to use the original break proportioning value. They can't both be in the same place. What did you do?

like

@Matty900 - I modified things a little - these pedals have separate front/rear master cylinders and the adjustable balance bar at the bottom of the pedal arms. No proportioning valve for me.

Are you running boxster calipers? i forget. What size are your brake master cylinders

@tazz9924 - Yes, Boxster calipers all around. Not S, just base Boxster.
I researched all the MC sizes when I bought the pedal set and if I recall, I have 5/8" bore for each brake master and 3/4" bore for the clutch master.

Point of interest: This is a Tilton pedal set and using their 76-Series master cylinders, and using the top exit location for the hoses, I was able to install the pedal assembly and get the pedal faces are in the exact same vertical plane as the stock pedals without modifying the chassis in that area.

For first fire ups ever since I had one go up, which was quickly extinguished with a blimp of the throttle. I now push them outside. Let the car burn if that's what it wants to do, my shop, and tools, no thank you.

I have a winch at the far wall from the door if I need to I can drag it back in.

@tazz9924 21mm is the standard size MC recommended for the Boxster calipers, even 23mm is not unheard of.

@TygaBoy , Chris if you really installed 5/8" that is a bit undersized. That actual is about a 16.5mm cylinder size.

I hope you are mistaken and installed at least 3/4 but then 7/8 would be even better choice.

@914forme - Stephen, remember, I have one MC for the front and one for the rear calipers so I'm not splitting a single 23mm MC. Tony runs the same pedal assy and these same sizes on his so I took his recommendation. If I need something different, it's simple enough to swap them out.

Top notch work Chris, as expected. I think when you are done with this project you need to start working on a supercar concept. Not sure we have seen a one in while!

Not poking but I don’t see an a/c compressor on the engine. Is that still in the plans?!

Thats true but even on a single MC both front and rear use the same bore to move fluid so a single is in effect two master cylinders. I could be wrong and there is something im not accounting for, but it feels right.

As I approach the first attempt at starting this thing, it struck me that I ought to do my best to channel Steely Dan: Countdown to Ecstasy!

Boring photo but this is the "buttoned up enough to run" frunk:
- radiator hose pass through panel temporarily pop riveted (can't final rivet it until the car is painted)
- fan relays wired and tested
- radiator hard lines fully installed
- radiator shroud in place
- brake/clutch reservoirs ready for fluids

For those wondering, "what's up with that plain radiator shroud?", I have yet to source/layup the carbon fiber inserts for the stamped shroud and beyond that, it'll need to be painted ahead of bonding in the inserts.

So, because I'm focused on doing only what's needed to get it running and driving, and I have to have some sort of shroud, I cut this aluminum version. Virtually no style points, only what's needed. @Rand , aren't you proud of me?

@FL 000 I fabbed all the engine compartment stuff so the compressor and lines have room but I'm not working to fit the AC system at this point. I'll worry about it after the car is on the road but ahead of painting it.

I realized I'd probably want the engine inspection cover to be in place ahead of getting it running. As with the radiator shroud, the final version of the cover will need painting before I bond in the carbon panels.
So I dug out V1 of the cover, cut some suitably shaped steel panels, placed them in from the back side and spot welded them in place. From a distance, they almost look like the stamped pieces.
Not the most attractive, but I now have a serviceable and reasonably fire proof fire wall.

The engine is back in for the last time before attempted starting.
Now I just have to wrap up a few items. Today was the under body coolant lines and working up a quick/dirty oil cooler by-pass line.

I need another 90 degree hose to wrap up the connection from the hot side collector to the radiator hose but the feed to the water pump is complete.

And on the oily side of things, I do have an oil cooler but I need to noodle on where to mount it. Until I work that out, this wonky by-pass allows for the start attempt.

So close!

Absolutely. (You know I only razz those I respect.) Getting stoked!

good to see that wix oil filter ready for action.. home stretch, here we come!!

I'm getting closer by the hour. Today it was a couple wiring things then hooking up the throttle cable and having it activate the ITBs for the first time!

I figured I should get a video of the action before installing all the velocity stacks and "air filters" (!)

Don't worry about the odd wire you see moving around at the bottom of the screen - it's the excess length of the yet-to-be-trimmed throttle cable.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYtGBNXWTZc

All buttoned up and ready to run back here.

getting close

It's so quiet...for now!