Will there be a group buy for t shirts? very classy Robert!

I like that muffler.

Congrats Chris....very inspiring build thread. I've learned a lot following it.

I can't wait to see it in person one day.
Such detail

Oscar

Yeah!! That thing sounds suh-weet! Awesome work to get to this point, looking forward to a first drive video

Congrat's!!! Always a great feeling when she fires that first time.
Andys

I'd love to see a "Budget Outlaw" video of your build.

Meant to be..............

@Andyrew
@dan10101


Oscar

Congratulations! Awesome to see!

Were talking about it I want to get out there and record it but time is difficult right now. Chris and I have also talked about it once or twice. His car deserves a really good video done on it (Or two or three).


Also... I have a message to send to YOU Oscar as well

Lets just say that we KNOW were not the only outlaws out there and by no means did we pioneer this thing

Congratulations! That is the best feeling

Thanks everyone, it was quite a momentous day! And no, @azbanks , I didn't run it at all after what you saw in the videos. I had a couple items to deal with first:

First, I hadn't yet put any coolant in it so didn't want to run it until that was addressed. @Krieger Andy came through with a magical vacuum driven radiator filling system. It uses a venturi set up, powered by an air compressor. Stick the main unit into the filler and pull a vacuum. If the system holds it, you have no leaks! Then remove the air line and attach a hose that is stuck into the coolant container. Open the valve and the system sucks in coolant until full.
All told, this took like 6 minutes. Very cool and highly recommended!

Big thanks to Andy!

During those video runs, the oil pressure gauge was reading "0". I was confident it wasn't true since it last ran just fine on the dyno. But @markhoward Mark came through with a mechanical, remote pressure gauge! I connected it to a spare plug on the in/out oil block and cranked until I verified pressure was, in fact, there. It was, as expected. Big thanks to Mark!

So what's up with the gauge? Turns out the wiring that came with the gauge was pinned out differently than the "extra length" wiring I purchased about a year after I got the gauges. A quick flip of two wires and all's well!

Next, the water temp gauge seemed like it wasn't working so I verified the wiring then pulled the coolant temp sensor and used the heat gun on it. The gauge works.

I guess I expected the engine to come up to temp more quickly...
Anyway, I figured now that it has coolant, I'd just let it run until it was clear the temp gauge should move - and it did!

A word about the SpeedHut gauges: I REALLY like these. Each gauge has it's own programmable LED that supports a user-set warning at both a Low and High value. So, you can see that the oil temp light is on, indicating the oil isn't yet up to temp but the water temp light has gone out and the gauge is climbing.

Pretty neat.

I will say, this thing is LOUD. I suspect it may be too loud and I'm already noodling on how I might redo the exhaust to get two mufflers in there. Nothing will happen until I've driven it but heads up that I may have to do something.

I'm hoping part of it is that the throttle feels a bit abrupt. The springs on the ITBs are really stiff. Maybe it'll all relax a bit as things settle in but I've already taken advantage of my "adjustable" throttle linkage:

I moved the cable attachment location down two positions. You can probably tell that this means the same pedal travel = less cable travel and softens throttle response.

I also have everything to learn about programming the the Holley HP ECU and wouldn't be surprised if there's something I can do in there, if needed.

Tomorrow will be a first attempt at bleeding the clutch and brakes and proving out there are no leaks in those lines. Assuming that goes well, the car will be able to move under it's own power and all that'll be left is 4-wheel alignment.

Again, if all goes well, I'll be on a maiden voyage before 9/14!

Almost

A million details and one bad ass car!

Chris - the volts reading seems a little high at over 14V running - is that just parallax error from the camera angle? or maybe these big engines need big volts.....

- Tony

PS. I think its funny that you built a short, near straight through exhaust system - and you're surprised its rather loud...!

@Retroracer - Tony, I think it's the angle but I'll take a look. I wouldn't expect any issues as it's running a standard alternator, but then, you know me and electric stuff!

And as far as your wise-ass comment, let me just say:

WHAT? I CAN'T HEAR YOU OVER THIS F-ING EXHAUST!

Seriously, I figured it'd be loud but I didn't think it would be this loud. I'm hoping it's partly because I'm sitting in it with no rear window and no air box, no engine lid, no trunk - so I get a ton of intake roar. I mean a TON. Maybe I need someone else to blip the throttle while I'm standing away from the car.

Congrats...sounds gnarly

Chris, maybe some short SuperTrapps that you can actually tune your volume with... I've seen some applications BEFORE the muffler that work also but they're harder to get to. Obviously.
Great job and a beautiful build!

"Loud pipes Save lives"...love it ,and the Porcupines are the icing on the cake !

Couple of muffler options... The "Race" mufflers don't do much but they do some.

https://pitstopusa.com/c-1208447-exhaust-sy...e-mufflers.html

But a better option for you would be some cones. Not cheap, but you can add more than one if needed for additional sound dampening.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtc-772-32520

I just have to say, between Andy, Mark @markhoward and Robert @buddyv (alpha order, so no one thinks I have a favorite ) I wonder how I got so lucky as to have met these guys. Just great people...
And today? @Krieger Andy came to the rescue once again! If the vacuum radiator system wasn't enough, he also loaned me this pressure bleeder. Yeah, yeah, all you guys who know about/have these just give me a break. I have a one of those little hand held Mighty Vacs so I was dreading the task of bleeding the clutch and both brake masters.

This thing took all of about 30 seconds to do the clutch line! Lunch and a beer on me, Andy!

1 step (pedal?) closer to !

And starting it is now officially a non-event!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNHZMd0tg_Y

We are the lucky ones to know you Chris! Amazing progress

Very happy for you Chris!
And all of us too!! This is like a car person's soap opera!
Can't wait for the next episode, first drive!

Chris or @Krieger Andy can you tell me a little more about the vacuum system that you used? Brand name?

Good times Chris! Congrats! Can’t wait for the next chapter.

@restore2seater

It is a Uview Airlift tool. I bought it for my Boxster. Amazingly simple to use and ideal for a setup like Chris has/ Boxster/Cayman. Basically it creates a vacuum in the cooling system out then draws your coolant mix into the cooling system. Here is a short video of how to use:
https://youtu.be/vwUHkee-ovw

Congratulations Chris You must be on cloud nine. After all that work, with doubts that you may have misconnected at least one of the hundreds of connections, or that a fluid connection will leak, the list goes on. And then to hear it run.......WOW.

Sounds great. Cool pressure bleeder.

Kinda like graduation day all over again. Except this time it's your buddies and friends instead of your parents, aunt's & uncle's. Big congratulations Chris. It's been a long but enjoyable haul. For some the real thrill is in the build. You've made it to the 90% done 90% to go plateau. Pat yourself on the back and have a beer.

Ok, enough accolades. Don't inflate him too much, we still have to keep him motivated to drive it.

Today was my first attempt at bleeding the brakes. I was able to get two rounds of bleeding done on the front M/C and it seems good to go. But I need more fluid to complete the 2nd round on the rear.
The Tilton pedals have a balance bar and at this point, when depressing the pedal, it's clear the front M/C firms up almost immediately but you can see the bar tip a fair bit as the rear continues to compress before firming up.

It is generating enough to trigger the hydraulic brake switch so "brake lights" can be checked off the list!

I expect that I'll complete the brake bleeding tomorrow and then give the entire car a once over to check for any loose fasteners.

Once that's done, there nothing preventing it from moving and stopping under its own power. I don't think I can resist backing it out of the Red Barn and driving it up and down our lane! For sure a video-worthy event.

I still need to get it aligned and corner balanced before a full blown road test but Holey Gebus, it's really happening!

Congratulations. So inspiring. I am now on the same path. I picked up the Boxter S trans and all of the goodies last week for an LS and I think I am going LS3 like you.
Keep up the awesome work brother

First post: Oct 17, 2016
Car moves under its own power: August 31, 2020

Just shy of 4 years. Sounds about right, eh?

So, BIG day for me and my car, as I'm sure you'll agree.

But now the real fun begins: The clutch and throttle are both on/off switches.
I'm betting I can address the clutch via a smaller master cylinder. The throttle is likely related to a couple things:
- I discovered an incorrectly pinned IAC (Idle Air Controller) connector in the factory Holley engine harness (yes, me. A novice wiring guy. Holley now has a sticky post about it on their support site, not that I'm claiming I was the only person who let them know.) The engine was dyno'd with that incorrect pin out.
- It now idles at about 1400 RPM and doesn't want to settle quickly back to idle. Vacuum leak somewhere, too? In any case, the higher RPM idle increases the force trying to pull the throttle plates closed and REALLY increases the pressure needed on the throttle pedal. And once things start to open, the pedal is able to move a bit more freely so it's tough to be smooth coming off idle. The good news is, the thing has so much torque, it moves forward at idle, no problem! Or maybe that is a problem!
And you can see it's rich at start up and right off idle. That may improve once it's warm but it seems like something that can be improved.

I've identified a highly recommended shop with a chassis dyno that does EFI tuning for drive-ability, vs the engine dyno work I had done to get the base tune for the ITBs.

Also, the brakes likely need another round of bleeding. Obviously, I haven't broken them in but they need more work.

Oh, and @Retroracer Tony, in the light of day, it may not be too loud, after all. At least not creeping up the driveway at idle... Maybe it was the excitement of the first start? The acoustics in front of the shop?

So there you go. It's "running and driving"! Yes, I know, not really but come on. And be honest, who here thought this project would never see the light of day? (besides me!)

And HUGE THANKS for all your encouragement getting me to this point.
More to come as I approach full blown road worthiness.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5KY0JQwTO8

First off, Lori is incredibly brave to shoot that video.

Second, based just on the sound of the Beast, I'm not going outside until it's safe.

Congrats Chris on getting this far. It's been fun to follow along.

Throttle control will be the key to a long life

Congrats! who knew art could roll!

What a long road Chris - way to stick with it, pal!

Tony/Cracker

Love the build and glad to see you made it to this point, but...

NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER press the gas pedal when starting an EFI car. Never ever!
In fact, give it a few seconds after startup to stabilize before pressing the pedal at all. The ECU is recording a baseline for air temp & pressure & stuff to calculate idle speed.

The Holley should be self learning after initial setup.

Also, pulling the key out only engages the steering lock - no electrical involved.

And if it hasn't been mentioned yet, the pump running for only a few seconds is normal. Part of EFI programming. I usually do a 3 second pause when turning the key from ON to START to build pressure, then the engine fires quickly. If it's been a few weeks I have to cycle a few time before I don't hear 'burps' in the tank.

You did it! Congratulations!

Awesome!! Sounds great from here!!!



Please clarify? No aftermarket ECU I know of has control logic like that...those doing barometric correction from MAP sensor take a baseline measurement between key on and crank usually. Totally agree you shouldn't need any pedal to start, but it's not because there is some calculation happening.

High idle speed may be by design until warm.

That is so exciting. I am sure you will have the brakes, throttle, etc., dialed in in no time. Congratulations on a major milestone.

Congrats...

Remember the feeling of driving mine for the first time in 20+ years.

Awesome!!!! HUGE congrats!!!!!



Maybe a cam lever for the throttle?

Clutch being an on/off switch is kinda normal for big power clutches.

Exhausts and fresh engines are typically really loud when first started. Mine was also incredibly loud, but was running lean. Also cold starts are always loud.

It sounds fine in the video I think you'll get used to it

[quote name='Andyrew' post='2847625' date='Sep 1 2020, 09:37 AM']
Clutch being an on/off switch is kinda normal for big power clutches.

It is not a big clutch, actually...its the MC I spec'd out and run in my car. It didn't occur to me that Chris isn't needing a short throw for quick shifting and/or the accompanying pedal effort would be an issue. Changes are in the werks...

Exhausts and fresh engines are typically really loud when first started. Mine was also incredibly loud, but was running lean. Also cold starts are always loud.

Umm, that engine IS broken in...completely!

[quote name='Cracker' date='Sep 1 2020, 07:02 AM' post='2847633']
[quote name='Andyrew' post='2847625' date='Sep 1 2020, 09:37 AM']
Clutch being an on/off switch is kinda normal for big power clutches.

It is not a big clutch, actually...its the MC I spec'd out and run in my car. It didn't occur to me that Chris isn't needing a short throw for quick shifting and/or the accompanying pedal effort would be an issue. Changes are in the werks...

Exhausts and fresh engines are typically really loud when first started. Mine was also incredibly loud, but was running lean. Also cold starts are always loud.

Umm, that engine IS broken in...completely!
[/quote]
Ah that's right it was your old race engine.. still it'll tame itself down at least in his head