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BigFour1973
I've been looking for another 914 and stumbled across a guy in hesperia that had a collection sitting around. There was a 1972 914 1.7 that was previously converted to a v8. It was last registered in 84 and has sat since. Made a deal and brought her to her new home. It's a little rough, but the rust it at a minimum.
Here are the two cars getting to know eachother.
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BigFour1973
She got dropped off late Saturday and I've been tearing her apart since then. Stripped the floor of the tar to discover a little rust in the passenger seat area. But I wanted to do the 2" drop pan for the bucket seats anyways so it didn't bother me. The hood was cut for a scoop, but since I wanted to do fiberglass front and rear lids I wasn't put off by it.
The longs are surprisingly solid. Only one problem area in the front passenger side so I'll have to chop and weld a little bit.

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BigFour1973
Here's that passenger side I was mentioning. Then the last photo is how I left her today. Got to work all week and some how be productive while I'm thinking of what to do next this coming weekend

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gms
Nice find, I love Gemini blue on a 914!
BigFour1973
QUOTE(gms @ Oct 24 2016, 01:33 PM) *

Nice find, I love Gemini blue on a 914!


Thank you, I had to hurry and get the car away from the guy before he changed his mind on the price.

I've got the new trunk lid for the car today. What does everyone think about the QRS front and rear fenders that are below?

mbseto
I like the fenders. How much weight do you lose with both lids and fenders in fg?
BigFour1973
QUOTE(mbseto @ Oct 25 2016, 06:30 AM) *

I like the fenders. How much weight do you lose with both lids and fenders in fg?


I read somewhere that the stock lids weight about 30 lbs a piece and the FG one I got is around 11 lbs. So close to 35-40 lbs for the trunks and I have no clue about the fenders
BigFour1973
Got the rest of the interior out; dash, rear window, front windshield, the trim and rubber too.

Next weekend will be; removing the suspension, getting her up on the rotisserie, removing brake lines, scrape away at the undercoating, and getting her ready to take to the cage builder.

BigFour1973
Got the radiator, need to mount it up tomorrow. This radiator has cool mounts on the top and bottom that allow for rubber donuts to be used. This is the Megan racing 2000-2006 Toyota celica aluminum radiator.
BigFour1973
Haven't gotten her up on the rotisserie yet, going to wait till the cage is installed and hell hole is taken care of.

Parts are building up, got the roll cage, engine cradle, maddog hell hole kit, front control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings, wheel bearings, door handles, front trunk seal and a few other things I'm probably forgetting.

A lot of sanding going on lately so nothing exciting to post up. But it will be heading to the fabricator after the new year so he can place the cage and weld in additional ties to front a rear suspension.

Has anyone utilized a rear sway bar after cutting out the trunk? Leaving the transmission mount/ subframe of course.
BigFour1973
Test fitting the cage

By the time i finish this project ill learn how to post a damn picture
BigFour1973
Haven't been updating much lately, makes me think that all the project threads that came to a stop have actually been completed. It's hard to take the time and post updates I guess.

Got the car back from the welder. Had the main cage welded in, then the rear subframe reinforcement, also had him tie the front suspension into the main cage.
(picture is everything just tacked in, its since been welded)

Last weekend I ran the radiator lines through the longs and this weekend I'll be working on getting the radiator mounted in, floating of course, and then get to the Fiberglass and carbon fiber body panels.

I'm running a wilwood pedal cluster too, so after test fitting i noticed that I'll need to cut into the pedal box and push them further into the cavity. The clutch master cylinder and both brake master cylinders are screwing me up fitment wise.
3d914
Nice project & good progress. Keep at it.
BigFour1973
Thank you, I'm starting to gain traction again which is always nice.

Has anyone ever removed the engine shelf from the engine bay? Since its going to be water cooled theres no need for it. plus it'll help clean up the bay a bit.

TIA
mepstein
QUOTE(BigFour1973 @ Mar 7 2017, 04:53 PM) *

Thank you, I'm starting to gain traction again which is always nice.

Has anyone ever removed the engine shelf from the engine bay? Since its going to be water cooled theres no need for it. plus it'll help clean up the bay a bit.

TIA

The PO of my suby build did it. That's why I have no problem not going back to a stock aircoolec motor. It does give you a lot more space in the engine bay. I'm not sure if Porsche intended any of it to be structural but I'm leaving it off.
BigFour1973
I got a few goodies today shades.gif

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BigFour1973
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ndfrigi
QUOTE(BigFour1973 @ Mar 11 2017, 06:58 PM) *

I got a few goodies today shades.gif

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Wow Corey! Nice score on those parts!
matthepcat
Where did you find the carbon fiber parts?
BigFour1973
QUOTE(matthepcat @ Mar 11 2017, 11:38 PM) *

Where did you find the carbon fiber parts?


QRS fiberglass out of hemet, ca. He will lay carbon fiber for any of his parts he offers in fiberglass. There is an upcharge for carbon though.
matthepcat
Awesome, I didn't know that.


QUOTE(BigFour1973 @ Mar 11 2017, 11:51 PM) *

QUOTE(matthepcat @ Mar 11 2017, 11:38 PM) *

Where did you find the carbon fiber parts?


QRS fiberglass out of hemet, ca. He will lay carbon fiber for any of his parts he offers in fiberglass. There is an upcharge for carbon though.

BigFour1973
Cut up the rear trunk and put the fresh suspension back together. New bushings and all.

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burton73
I'm running a wilwood pedal cluster too, so after test fitting i noticed that I'll need to cut into the pedal box and push them further into the cavity. The clutch master cylinder and both brake master cylinders are screwing me up fitment wise.
[/quote]

I am running Wilwood Pedal Clusters also and you have to cut into your old peddle area and weld in a piece of bent steel with the holes to fit the MC and have the Pedal Clusters bolted to it. A very kind member sent me instructions and the part several years ago. I have not finished it but you have to have a short length MC and brake Cylinders to clear the bellows on the front Steering and still have the brake lines come out. I am running a Carrera aluminum center on the steering. I have a Clutch MC and 2 brake MC for Boxster brakes. I am running a 930 Turbo trans with a slave cylinder on it.

It looks like a mess but it will all be good when I weld in the piece that I have shown. I have done test fittings and it had to go this much forward for the pedals to work. You can see the outline on the old floor where the brake cylinder was before. I am almost 6 ft. tall. There was no room before with the stock set up. Also with out the factory pedal cluster, you have to work out the gas pedal.
What are you running for an engine?

Bob

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BigFour1973
[quote name='burton73' date='Mar 19 2017, 10:03 PM' post='2465897']
I'm running a wilwood pedal cluster too, so after test fitting i noticed that I'll need to cut into the pedal box and push them further into the cavity. The clutch master cylinder and both brake master cylinders are screwing me up fitment wise.
[/quote]

I am running Wilwood Pedal Clusters also and you have to cut into your old peddle area and weld in a piece of bent steel with the holes to fit the MC and have the Pedal Clusters bolted to it. A very kind member sent me instructions and the part several years ago. I have not finished it but you have to have a short length MC and brake Cylinders to clear the bellows on the front Steering and still have the brake lines come out. I am running a Carrera aluminum center on the steering. I have a Clutch MC and 2 brake MC for Boxster brakes. I am running a 930 Turbo trans with a slave cylinder on it.

It looks like a mess but it will all be good when I weld in the piece that I have shown. I have done test fittings and it had to go this much forward for the pedals to work. You can see the outline on the old floor where the brake cylinder was before. I am almost 6 ft. tall. There was no room before with the stock set up. Also with out the factory pedal cluster, you have to work out the gas pedal.
What are you running for an engine?

Bob

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[/quote]

Thank you for the photos, it gives me something to go off of. Im running 2 of the small master cylinders like you have pictured. Even if i can get the whole pedal box pushed in 1-2 inches ill be fine. Like you said the steering rack does make for a tight squeeze.

I need to get my seat in the car before i make any permanent decisions.

Motor is going to be an ej20x with equal length headers, catless up pipe, 3" turbo back exhaust and a cut out for a 2.5" muffler. 1200cc five0 motorsport injectors, e85, stinger or AEM infinity ecu, frozen boosts water-air intercooler, and im sure im forgetting a couple things.
BigFour1973
Picked up a couple things that I couldn't pass up on Craigslist. Now I just need to fina another deal on a sparco sprint.

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BigFour1973
Got all the fiberglass and carbon pieces in. Only thing not pictured are the rockers. This should be fun a lengthy process.
9146GUY
AP makes a "shorty" master cylinder that is 80 mm (3.14") long that I have used in several 914 race cars I have built. They do clear the cross member.
It looks to be shorter than the Wilwood unit you are using. Depending on the bore size I may still have some new ones on the shelf.
Good luck with your build
sb914
I'm calling you out Corey!!! Over one year ! WTF.gif slacker thread is in order!
I'll take the Cf parts ! chair.gif bye1.gif
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