now that my 3.2 conversion is up and running I have a few bugs to work out, and i'm hoping to gain some knowledge from others that have been there done that.
My car is a 74 that previously had a 2.7 and now has a 3.2 with a KEP stage two clutch PP set up, stock DME 3.2 , and Rich Johnson mount.


My questions are:

1. How is your airfilter routed with pics please. My AFM is in it's semi orig location and my current cone filter is just barely hitting the lid. I have a smaller diameter cone on order, but wanted to see what others have done.

2. I was told, that my Pilot bearing on the tranny seems to be turning all the time. My engagement is closer to the floor than i'm used to but even with a small spacer on the clutch cable end, i'm still at the end of thread for the adjusting nuts. Is a bigger spacer the answer or am i missing something specific to the kennedy set up that I should do.

hopefully this made sense, I have pics on my home computer i can post later.

TIA

Ferg.

Here's a picture of the 3.2 from GPR.
They sell the whole kit.

Here's a picture of my motor with a Ford MAF.
All brackets, adapters and fittings are from home depot.
I'm also running the KEP stage 2 kit.
The instructions said to take out the washer which I did.
I can't tell if it helped or made it worse.
I still had to adjust the clutch pedal for maximum throw to the floor.
My throw out bearing also seems like its always touching the pressure plate.
GPR and PMS said they have never had this problem.
The instructions also say the throw out bearing should not touch the pressure plate.
They also recommended a spring on the throw out arm to make sure it doesn't rub.
I have to push the clutch all the way to the floor otherwise reverse will grind.
It was worse until I replaced the terry cable weltmeister special with a factory six clutch cable.

Thanks Steve, those pics are very helpful, i'll post my pics when i get my home computer hooked up, (we just moved). Couple of questions...
What size home depot pipe is that 3 or 4 inch, I went there and was having problems constructing the same type of intake tube, seems like the plubing pipe is measured by inner diameter, and connection to AFM and cone filter would not work.

Which washer are you refering to be left out of the kennedy kit, i want to call the guy who did my install and find out if that was done

Which ford model MAF, I plan on keeping my stock one but it would be nice to know for the future.

Again thanks for the pics and advice, once i'm unpacked and settled in our new place i'll have a saturday to get the issues resolved. Right now i'm driving around with no engine lid, feels like a nova or somthing

Ferg

I think my intake manifold was put on backwards or something for this to happen. Some people say my trunk flows enough air, others say it doesn't. I have the plugs pulled out up by the shock towers. I have the autothority mass air meter.

Ferg,
Your new motor looks really great! Look forward to seeing it at one of the local club events. Regarding the clutch. It is very common to put almost an inch of spacers on the adjusting rod before you screw the nylock nut in place, honest! There are several other things that can aggravate this situation. What seems obvious is that you clutch is not fully disengaging so consider the following things that can make that problem worse.
1) Was the flywheel resurfaced and if so did they grind all three key surfaces to maintain the critical dimensions? ( The clutch plate surface, the surface the PP bolts onto, and the surface the flywheel bolts mount to) The first critical dimension that must be checked is the distance from the main clutch surface up to the flange that the PP bolts onto. This must be held at 22.5 mm + or - 0.2 mm. This is a critical dimension that some people overlook. Given the motor change that you did, what flywheel did you put into your car and is it possible that someone had previously machined the flywheel?? Secondly, the surface that the flywheel to crankshaft bolts mount to is machined so that the clutch will not rub on the top of the bolts. Some people take a short cut and machine down the top of the heads of each bolt to achieve the same effect. This seems to work but it is better to machine the mounting surface rather then the bolts. The critical dimension for the mounting bolt surface is 11 mm minimum from the bolting surface up to the clutch surface. It would be best for you to first measure the height of the bolt head plus the thickness of the large concentric washer that goes under the bolt heads and make sure your clutch plate won't touch the tops of the bolts. Now make sure your clutch plate won't touch the bolt heads.
2) Did you place any shim washers under the pivot bolt for the clutch fork? Doing so might help you a lot. The test for this problem is to have someone sit in the car and push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor while you are under the car looking at the movement of the fork inside the hole that is cast into the side of the transaxle. Is the fork bottoming out on the front edge of the hole when the clutch pedal is pushed? It shouldn't touch any surface during its movement back and forth. If yes, it would also explain why the clutch is not fully disengaging and it also contributes to why you need such a large shim pack on the clutch adjustment nut. Even a thin shim washer under the pivot bolt causes the outboard end of the clutch fork to move a significant distance. I would recommend you start with a 0.020 inch shim although you might have to add more if the flywheel has been machined more then once.
If these suggestions are clear as mud to you please call. I'll try to help.
Lyle
3)

Thanks, Lyle, those specs will also come in handy. All parts PP clutch Flywheel ect were new, and the install was done by a pro (ken Monihan) who has the Yellow 3.6 914, you met him on our fall drive, so i'm very confident it was done "right". This thread will help me alot this weekend when I get under my car for the first time since the install 4 weeks ago.
Ferg.

Forgot I already posted some pics on another thread, so here's my current set up, that does NOT clear the GT lid by less than 1/4 inch...

I can see by your picture that you need the drain pipe to extend the air flow meter.
If you extend the air flow meter with a pipe it will allow you to mount the air flow meter lower so the air cleaner won't hit.
The pipe from home depot only comes in something like 4' lengths.
I had to cut it down.
The pipe says 3" PE CO EX solid drain pipe on it.
I also brought the air flow meter with me to home depot to match everything up.
The pipe is 3" on the inside.
Bring your air flow meter to home depot.
Find the 3" pipe and then find a matching adapter there to go between the pipe and the air flow meter.
You can also do it the more expensive way and call up GPR and buy there adapter and pipe.

When I get a chance today I will scan the instructions from KEP.
It says to use the stock 915 flywheel and resurface it to get rid of the groove.
It also says to use there proprietary throw out bearing.
It also states that you need to remove the washer under the throw out bearing fork pivot.
I also agree with the previous posts that this does not make sense.
If you are not disengaging the clutch all the way you usually need to add washers under the pivot to get the desired travel without hitting the trans opening on either side.
I wish I had time to work on mine before the WCC.
I will also use the info from lylegd when I get a chance and try to trouble shoot it.
I had a local shop resurface the flywheel to get rid of the groove.
They might of shaved to much off which could also cause this problem.

regards,

Steve

Thanks, you're right, new 915 flywheel. I'll find out what exactly was done during the install and report back, I'm sure the the groove was not removed, and i'm using a regular TO bearing.

GREAT INFO

Ferg


PS, It's a crank up new rebuild, so i'm putting on the first 1k without going over 4k rpm's... (engine came with warrenty so i'm following specific break in procedure) I can't wait to uncork this SOB

I am very happy with the conversion.
The 3.2 is dangerous enough for me.
I don't know how the V8 and 3.6 owners handle all the power.
I had to put 245-45-16's on the back so the car wouldn't spin out because of the throttle induced over steer.
I guess a limited slip would probably help alot.

I think you will be quite happy once its all sorted out.
I built mine about 3 years ago.
I have had so much fun driving it I don't want to take it apart to fix the clutch issue.

You fellows with the maf and cone filters. Are you doing anytrhing about the induction noise? The ones with the cone filters behind the drivers seat. I hear more induction noise then exhaust notes at times. Anybody doing anything about this?
Buck

The induction noise didn't bother me.
At mid to high rpm's I can still hear my single outlet bursch muffler pretty good.

earplugs

I have a dual out exhaust with 3 inch tips, it's deafning anywhere from 2300-3000, then the induction noise takes over... still quieter than a harley with "pipes"

Ferg.