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matchpoint
I am ready to install my new windshield on my 914. I am using 1/4 08610 3M buytl rope. I have the chrome trim replacement rubber seal from 914Rubber that hooks behind the outer glass edge. I have the 2 - 914Rubber setting blocks that lay at the bottom edge of the windshield pinch weld. Here are my questions.

1. It seems like the 2 914Rubber setting blocks are two skinny at 1/8 inch thick.
The setting block shickness at 1/8 in would not allow for enough space to stuff
and hook the 914Rubber chrome replacement trim between the bottom glass
edge and the lower pinch weld face where the OE trim clips holes are guued
shut? The setting blocks seem to me should be about 1/4 inch thick or about
double the OE trim clips thichness.

2. I can see problems with the 914Rubber chrome replacement seal not laying flat
at the 2 lower corners because of the severe glass bend. POOCHING?

3. Even if I was to go back to the OE chrome trim the rubber setting blocks at the
bottom don't seem fat enough for the lower edges of the window to sit properly.
Looks like the 914Rubber setting blocks are the same height as the trim blocks.
I would think the setting blocks should be higher than the chrome trim clips?

I am thinking the best way to get a quality job is to forget the rubber seal and go back to new OE chrome trim.

Any ideas from any who has been down this road.
Thanks
shoguneagle
If you go the 914Rubber front windshield seal route, take the after installed corners and using rubber seal glue them down (be careful not to get any overlap on the paint, etc.), and then take very strong magnets placed over the rubber seal corners to hold them down. The magnet has to be strong and should use two per each corner.

I used their rubber seal and like it. It does not come out exactly but I did not build a concours car. It looks great for a driver which mine is.
matchpoint
QUOTE(shoguneagle @ Oct 31 2016, 09:07 PM) *

If you go the 914Rubber front windshield seal route, take the after installed corners and using rubber seal glue them down (be careful not to get any overlap on the paint, etc.), and then take very strong magnets placed over the rubber seal corners to hold them down. The magnet has to be strong and should use two per each corner.

I used their rubber seal and like it. It does not come out exactly but I did not build a concours car. It looks great for a driver which mine is.

Dig you use 1/4 butyl rope or tube of urethane glue for your windshield install?
We have a car in our Porsche club where the installer may have used urethane to glue the windshield down and then it looks like a different seal than the 914Rubber seal. It may be a "T" seal where the long leg of of the "T" is embedded into a urethane glue strip at the edge of the glass all the way around. The rubber "T" is then finger smoothed into the glue. The rubber "T" material allows for a tighter bend than the 914Rubber seal. His corners are perfect. I also thought maybe the 914Rubber seal might be installed around the glass before the glass is installed.

I have an experienced 914 window installer coming to my project to give me his ideas of how to use the rubber and not have the pooch at the corners. I would love to use the rubber vs fighting the and buying new chrome.

I still don't understand why the the 2 setting blocks are so thin at 1/8 inch. I would need about 1/4 inch block to center the window from top to bottom and allow enough room for the 914Rubber rubber lip on their seal to go down and under the window to hook at the bottom. With the 1/8 inch setting blocks the room at the bottom of the glass is too small for the seal to push down and hook?
Thanks,
Bpb
shoguneagle
I did not use the butyl rope. I had it installed using urethane glue by a professional installer. The 914Rubber gave me complete coverage over the entire windshield mounting trough to prevent water getting into the area. The only problem I had was the lower corners wanting to turn up which I solved with the magnets and the rubber seal. The 914 rubber part covered everything including the lower corners since it was made extra wide.

Prior installations, I used commercial rubber seals but the were a little short in the corners and left a small gap where rainwater could get into the lower sections. This commercial rubber (normal stock item for glass installers) was more flexible and did make the corners better but as I mentioned before the widest part left a small gap in each lower windshield corner.

Your installer should have a solution for the setting blocks.

PancakePorsche
I cut paint stir sticks into strips and stack them to adjust centering of glass spot on. Original butyl tape will give the proper height so there is no gaps between glass and trim pieces. When the height is too low it looks like crap.

Replacement windshields don't always get contours correct so you have to work around that. I returned the last one for another brand after test fit revealed contour concerns.

If you like black out reveal go with painted factory trim. looks great when done right.
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