So I dropped my engine and tranny yesterday for a wintertime refresh and my left side CV bolts (all four of them) were all loose. One to the point where I didn't even need a ratchet, it just came out with my fingers. The other three started turning after the slightest pressure on the ratchet. Right side was tight.

I don't think I forgot to torque them this spring when I reinstalled my rebuilt tranny because the gasket was really squished out from the flange, along with some grease. The right side was also squished out, but not nearly as much.

So, what's the story with gaskets being squished out? It seems like they weren't really doing their job at all, and I'm led to believe they helped lead to the bolts loosening up. There's wasn't grease flung around, so I was sealed up, but the gaskets squished out like that did not look right to me.

So looking at the gasket, can you see it it was pinched? If it was then maybe that caused an issue.

You need to use the ribbed belview washers often called schnor washers. I have also seen that when the CV's come loose, the area around the screw gets pulled out on the transmission output flanges. Once this happens. the screws have a tendency to work loose. I like to use a lathe and make a slight "cleanup Cut" on the face to insure it is flat.

Drill and safety wire. It only takes a minute or so to ensure they don't work to loose

The safety wire is foolproof. That said, using NEW schnorr washers has always worked for me. I also use a drop of blue loctite in the flange threads. Need to make sure they're hospital clean first.

I assume you're also using the metal flange that spans the two bolts, right?

I use new Schnorr washers, red locktite and an impact gun on mine. So far so good.

If you do not go the safety wire do clean the bolts and flanges and use the new washers. One tip is to put a drop of nail polish on the edge of the bolt and flange. Inspect often and if the dots are separating the bolts are moving out.

Make sure your transmission mount bolts are solid any vibration or loose bolts will add stress to the cv joints. I have 100 mm cvs and the inner bolts came out and of course the car would not move. I was stumped until i looked at my solid gearbox mounts and both were loose.

I have the bolts drilled, safety wire even school washers

http://shop.914rubber.com/searchquick-subm...004?keywords=Cv

These bolts even Schnor washers and safetied wired should be checked on a planned maintenance basis. I use the Schnor washers and planned torque checking which keeps me out of trouble. Safety wire which I do not do for now is the ultimate but still needs to be on a planned maintenance inspection.

Now I will have to find drilled bolts for the 110mm CVs; or get a drill kit for the bolt heads.

As I said before. I've machined the CV bolts, and have the wire and even washers

http://shop.914rubber.com/searchquick-subm...004?keywords=Cv

Mark, He wants them for 911 CV joints. Do you have them?

Yes, they should be checked routinely, you were fortunate to find them loose before coming out. It's not something you'll ever want to experience, don't ask me how I know...

Mine had no gaskets, I reinstalled them with.

At least in was only doing about 20 at the time, not 80 like I was just minutes before

Thanks everybody. Great tips. Never safety wired bolts before, anyone care to share a pic of yours?

Voila'. Not mine, but from Mark:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1736427

Pic is in post #19.

Post a pic of the gasket side of the cv.

The secret here is that the matting surfaces of the CV and gearbox flange must be 100% clean and dry. If not, the torque you apply is basically compressing that dirt or grease. Then the vibrations work the dirt in a different place and the bolt loses all its torque and starts unwinding.
The safety wire will keep the bolt from turning much but the scissoring forces on the bolt may eventually cut it.
So, bottom line, clean, clean, clean and you won't need any special security wire.

easy fix!..like most have said super clean and the" proper loctite" and torgue .theres more then one red bottle and if you use the wrong red bottle you`ll never get them out again good luck

Click to view attachment

I have made it a new habit of grabbing some white nail polish and painting all the bolts whenever I am done tightening them. Lets me do a quick glance under the car to make sure important bolts are tight.

CV bolts are hard since the grease always gets in the way and covers the bolt. I run mine down with an impact till they stop moving and just mark them. If they loosen up I pull them out, clean the threads, locktite and try again.

Safety wire is great, but I wouldn't say foolproof. You can, and many inexperienced mechanics do, safety wire items incorrectly. A good set of safety wire pliers, ten minutes on YouTube, a little practice and you should have it.

It seems from past threads on their and Pelican that most bolts backing out were the absence of Schnorr washers or reusing the washers when reinstalling the driveshafts.

Mark did mine as well. Great job as always.

Always used new bolts, new Schnorr washers, a bit of Loctite and torque them (twice) to be sure they were on spec. With all that and the wire, never had a failure.

I'll 2nd the clean and new washers. When I was a newbie, I had some trouble with them holding torque, but I was inexperienced as a mechanic, and re-used the schnoor washers.

Now I make sure everything is clean and grease free, new washers, a drop of locktite (blue) and torqued to spec at the minimum. Haven't had one back out yet since doing it this way. I do like the idea of some paint to index.

I've never used the drilled + safety wire.

Use new schnoor washers, and torque to the proper setting in the factory manual.

I bought a box of 100 schnoor washers, and I religiously replace them every time I remove a bolt. Like the gasket, they are expendable.