Mark 1stly apologies for the hijack. I was thinking of pulling the column parts I have been piecing together for my six & photograph them for posterity with all the talk of column conversions and thought it would be better to keep it with other conversion info

Harpo pinged me the other night to post some info, so here goes

These are the bits that if you are going to do a column conversion you need to get together. The parts in the photo would suit all years except the fact that the early cars (-4 and -6) had the smaller mounting plate fitted to the column tube, if you have a later car and converting a 911 tube, as Mark states, you need to use the later mount plate. If you have an early car you need to fabricate the small mounting plate. I will take dims and post in this thread

Missing from the picture is the steering wheel washer, rubber isolation pad (NLA) that goes between column tube and mounting plate and front column tube bearing, apart from those I think it's all there

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There are a number of excellent conversion threads on this site about to go about the conversion. The major hurdles to get it to function and 'look right' (until now) were the upper and lower covers, the eyebrow covers that close the gap to the dash frame itself, ignition bezel (still an issue) and of course Mark's & RD's super hard to hand fabricate ignition dimple.

I started down the 911 column conversion route while I hunted for genuine used and NOS six parts. Info I have found out along the way through reading the threads and background research;

As others have stated the best way to start is with as a complete 911 column and switches & lock etc as possible, this is definitely the least cost route

Column tube itself is exactly the same as a long wheelbase pre impact bumper 911 unit with the exception of the U shape ignition lock thing. The 914-6 tube has the U shape doodahh welded on 180 out to clear a bolt hole in the small plate - no biggie just makes assembly slightly more fiddly I would imagine. For a later car, I would imagine that there is lots of clearance

If using a later lock, again as members have stated you need to trim down the end of the lock to fit the early column tube, again there are posts with the required dims, but I can't find it right now

Tube spline shaft, rear bearings, horn ring, horn contact, misc fixing screws are all 911 parts. PET however does list the 914-6 front bearing and spring that sits against the bearing as distinctly different part numbers to the 911 parts. The spring in the picture (hard to see as it is from above) is actually 911 item & I have looked at both my 911 tube and complete 914-6 tube and I cannot see an obvious difference in the front bearing

Bearings are still available (super expensive so don't bugger yours up), as is the 914-6 spring (I'm going to order one as it is a low cost item) / have a genuine column and front bearing - just in case. If there is a difference I will update once I have it in my hand

I found by chance that the cheese head screws which mount the ignition switch to the lock and column switches to tube are the same as 2" round electrical conduit box cover screws, this probably helps those in Europe save some dimes, but not US members being generally imperial thread in construction- sorry. Correct finish for screws, washers etc is gold passivate

If you have your original -4 wheel you'll need to purchase the horn cancellation ring / remove the -4 rear assembly. The cancel ring, new horn contact pin is available from SMadre and others

I ran out of power in the phone tonight to document, but 914-6 and 911 wiper switches are basically the same (round 6 connector) and when I pinned them out they also seemed to be electrically the same (only 5 pins used out of the 6).

Direction indicator switch is different, but principally it's the loom - flash function? 914-6 has a single rectangular plug, 911 item has the loom split to two plugs. It really only matters if you have a genuine -6 loom. If converting you would just cut and splice

Part number stamping on the arm is different and only matters if you are being anal and have a genuine car

Splined shaft that mounts up to the rear of the column and over to the rack is also different depending on year and model. The good news is that with the majority of cars being post 72 that shaft is the same part number as a -6. If you have an early -4 you need to acquire the later shaft - which lets face it is not going to be hard

Will post more pics of the switches etc & dims of the small plate tomorrow but also try and get a CAD file sorted by my guy at work (maybe the new year now)

I know you will but, if I'm out of line with any details please step in to correct

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Is there a desired plastic 'cup' on the back of the steering wheel for this method?

Neither. You use the early 911 / 914-6 setup, early 914 wheel ( ends with a 10 & 911 cancel ring). Shown in post #51

More pictures

Wiper stalk switches, from Right to Left;

NOS 914-6 (6 pin connector with all pins present / 1 unused)
Used 914-6 (6 pin connector with one pin missing - just visible)
Used 911 (901 part number on the stalk so early, with six pins. The loose wire with a spade connector goes to the 6th connector that is unused in the 914-6 part. Sheathing is partly removed as the loom has some damage from when the column was cut out of the 911 by the eBay seller with a gas axe )

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Turn Signal switches

From Right to Left;

Used 911 (901 part number again). Loom is damaged and even missing one of its connectors due to the gas axe. Ebay seller cleverly positioned all the loom damage in the photos so I couldn't see). Messy but reparable and useable for a conversion

Used 914-6
NOS 914-6

Loom lengths are similar for both 914 and 911 items. If you really wanted to re-create a 914-6 switch, loom and plug using a 911 switch as a basis it would be perfectly doable with the correct rectangular plug. However you would also have to have a matching -6 main loom - not worth it for a conversion. Part number on stalk would be incorrect however as these are stamped in

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Column tubes

911 and 914-6 tubes. Same basic construction, length and lock hole identical. U lock spun as described before

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More

I have figured out that there is indeed a difference in the upper bearings, 911 tube measuring from the outer flange to the bearing surface 9.1 - 9.2mm depending on where you measured

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914-6 column distance is slightly shorter at 8.4mm

Not sure why the difference, clearance at the clamshells / stop something rubbing. I'm guessing that the 914-6 spring would also differ by 1mm?

Seems like a lot of effort for less than 1mm delta

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This is turning into a great overall how-to thread.

Here's the thread we had about the ignition switch itself.

Also my thread about a replacement upper bearing that's not $280 and works better overall.

I'm seeing two ways, a no lock with what looks like stock /4 switches and one with 911 switches and locking. I take it the latter is correct...or are they both correct?

Yep, Genuine six route would be the latter, lots of bits and $$ as even the 911 parts are no longer a low cost option. -4 route would be the dash frame mod, relocate ignition (no lock) and keep the -4 column etc - comparatively simple and much less $ than the full six route

I'm doing the former as I have a genuine six, but it lost its column (and other bits) when she went racing & trying to reverse time

Start with the frame mod while hunting for 911 parts, lower commitment but with future options?

Here is my diy 914-6 column

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Mark, do you have any of the replacement bearing kits left? PM me info. Thanks

Gotta look if I still have my shim information or any of those left. The bearings are easy. I'll let you know.

Thanks Mark

I would be interested. We end up buying the Porsche one, $240 every 2-3 months. It's painfull.
Please.

Do we have Porsche part no for all the parts needed?


Niklas

"Escutcheon".....

Only other time I heard that word was when my wife used it in conversation a few years back. Escutcheon ring around the fire sprinkler.

I married smart.

(I looked up the new word as soon as she wasn't looking)

Great word.

I like trim ring, I can actually spell that

No, that is K100/K300 style 356/911 key. The 914 uses an HC/NC key profile. They are not interchangeable. The face of the lock is also distinguishably different. A show judge would notice it immediately. That ignition lock also has spade connectors. The 914-6 ignition switch has bullet connectors like the 911.

That aluminum plate acts as a retainer and a spacer. It is for late 911 ignition locks. The later style uses a shallower (flatter) all plastic bezel. The earlier locks had a couple of different versions of retainer; just punched metal. The bezel is thicker and has a black metal insert or polished steel insert (like the picture above).

The 911/914-6 steering lock will all mount the same way, but there are subtle differences throughout the years. It's up to the owner if they want to be period correct in appearance and have correct profile key. Early locking ignition had spade connectors not bullet.

BTW, I have two of theses ignition switches. I'm quite sure they give you the opportunity to have an accessory setting in the switch.

I will be selling one, if someone is interested. They are both in good usable condition. (No key fob)

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Mark I would be interested in your bearing fix as well.

Thanks

David

I kinda thought so. Have one sitting here for you.

Just in case anyone was wondering why a 74 or later column will not work here is a photo. The length difference is about 2 inches. The 73 column will be 8.75 inches long
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For comparison, how long is the 914 column ? BTW: great thread....

The 914-6 steel column (steel tube portion) is about 8-9/16"
The four cylinder column (steel tube portion) is about 6" long.

Hey Mark any luck with this reinforcement plate? Otherwise I will modify an old 911 to fit with marginal results. I made a crappy pattern of the inside of the 914-6 dash and transferred it to a 911 piece
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Certainly not perfect but it will work in the short term

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How come the -6 dash as such a deep recess versus a 911 ?

I believe it has to do with the angle of the dash.

Oh that makes sense.. I am currently collecting parts so exciting.

So you can't mod a /4 column even if you have the fab skills?

I said I wasn't going to do it, but I found the turn and wiper switches in my stash and a friend is sending me an ignition switch.
I thought I had a /6 column, couldn't find it and it's off of a '76 anyways.

Looks like I'm collecting parts for next winter's project.

I am receiving my column and ignition today.. Bought it really cheap though off a 75.. I am trying determine how I can mod it to work..

That's why I'm asking if you can just fab and add brackets, plus relocate the lock hole, to the existing /4 column?

I don't care about correctness, my car is a '74 conversion and besides you can't see the column anyways.

I just received mine today.. It looks very similar to what I am seeing in pictures on this thread..

Bad news is the ignition switch came with no key.. Good news paid 75 for it and the column and wiring harnesses shipped..

Hello All,
We are trying to date when certain changes occurred in this style of ignition lock. Here is something that's been puzzling us for a while. We know all about the mechanics of the 911/914-6 style ignition switch from its earliest iteration on the early 911/912 with the steering lock option. Those pre-1970 steering locks came keyed to an "FL' profile key. They also had spade connectors on the electrical switch and did not have the small white buzzer contact switch. They also have the shaved end on the locking bolt end (no provision/recess for the security bolt).

So, we have always assumed the next generation of the 911 switch (1970 on), which comes with a HC/NC key profile, always came with the buzzer contact switch. Well, this is not the case. We have one that does not have the provision for the buzzer contact switch. The casing is blocked off; no hole.

So, which models/years did not have a buzzer contact switch?

Also:
When did the face of the lock cylinder change from a stainless steel cap to a black painted face?

Last question:
Did all 914-6 ignition switches come with the buzzer contact switch or was there a change from one model year to the next?

Kudos to those that can answer these correctly. Thanks.

I'm sure that it can be converted especially someone with your skills Mark. Because you already the 76 column that probably is your best bet. If you look at Andy's original thread he fabricated his own brackets and with the column positioned optimally in the car he welded them in place.

There is really no correct year it is only about the easiest path

David

Hi Tweet, this is not going to answer your questions definitely but this is what I have observed down the years

Ignition buzzer. I think (note think) is a USA v ROW thing. My UK spec 72 911 (same lock) does not have a buzzer, nor do any of the other original Euro cars that I have observed or ridden in

914s and especially sixes are very thin on the ground here and nearly all are imports, so checking them out as a reference is a bit pointless. Indeed no Euro car I have ever driven since age 17 has a buzzer

That said from a production perspective having two stocks of buzzer / no buzzer switches seem like a bit of a PITA, just stock buzzer switches but don't hook it up if its Euro and not required

Ignition lock face. My logic says that this would have changed at the same time as satin black window surrounds and headlamp rings, so what 75?

Just got a deal on a 69-73 column from my buddy who's sending me the ignition switch

Only thing is the switch doesn't have keys, didn't someone say there's a trick to getting the tumbler out?

Yup just did it Mark on the one I got.. If you look just below the threaded portion for the bezel there is pin that needs to be removed. If your looking at the lock head on with the column lock pointing to the right it would be about the 2 o'clock position. I drilled a small drill right next to the pin and used a sharpened tungsten from my TIG machine to remove the pin.. It pops out easily once you get it to move.

Thanks Ben.

Np.. If you need pictures let me know .. I think I googled it and found a very old world thread that had pictures.. Had I not seen them no way would I have seen it..

Here's my collection so far :
I just got the ignition switch ('83 SC) and column ('69-'73 not sure of year) for free
The switch is challenged as the mounting screws have been cut off and it has no key.
But hey! I can't beat the price

Well not exactly free, a good buddy and I trade parts, his junk for my junk. I gave him my old /6 weber vents and some other IDA weber parts I had. It always works out in the wash.

I had the turn and wiper switches in my stash, they're off of a '76.

Do I need the switch wiring harness? damn...

Not going to worry about this project this year, I'd be happy just getting my 914 on the road, this is for next winters project.
I'll pick up the dash piece from RD at this summers open house.

If you flip the switch with the key portion facing downward. You should be able to use a regular straight blade screw driver to thread out the broken fasteners..

They have also cut one of the back of the screws off

No biggie getting them out...just some time.

In the blind through holes?

Either way good find. I paid 75 for my set up and I had to do a little welding on it as someone had smashed it a bit with a hammer and I also have a later column so I need to find an early column still with switches..

Mark, mine were the same way. Mine came right out with a LH twist drill bit

I have a couple of early ignition switches for sale in the for sale threads that I think would work for this.

Just thought I'd mention it.....

Yep that's the plan



Not for same price as I got mine for.

How to remove the tumbler for rekeying.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...ion-re-key.html

It appears that the 914 & 911 column are very similar. The lugs are certainly different between the 914 & 911. Has anyone confirmed if everything else is the same. Same goes for the lower bearing, they appear to be interchangeable.

Thanks

David
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