I got my rear PORSCHE reflector lens in the mail today ($85 off eBay, smokin' deal!), and have a question. I need to cut about 2" off each end, and was wondering what's the best way to do this?

I know to measure twice and cut once, but what's the best thing to use to cut the plastic? I'll use painter's tape and mark the cutting line down the middle of it, but would something like a dremel tool be best to cut it? I don't have small power tools like that, so I'd have to buy a dremel. Also, what's the best cutting thing, like a fine grit wheel?

That's half the battle, the other half will be figuring out a way to open the trunk once I remove the keyed opener. I'm thinking of just running some kind of cable with a pull handle, into the engine compartment. That way, it's out of sight, and I won't have to worry about routing it into the interior. I don't have any problem with opening the engine lid in order to open the trunk. Any ideas?

Thanks!

I would use a chop saw with a fine bit. If you must use a dremel, cut wide and file down to a smooth edge.

Many have rigged a cable straight down below the trunk to open. You can also buy a solenoid and rig up a push button. I still recommend the cable as a back up.

Mine has a cable pull (similar to the hood cable assy) that goes into the engine compartment.

You can use a razor saw used in modeling like the one made by Xacto. Might take a little more time but you're not as likely to shatter the plastic. It's easy enough to rig up a wire that goes through the floor of the trunk to pull the lever. Not very secure but who's going to be reaching up around your muffler anyways (except another guy who's owned a 914).

Tape and use a fine toothed hacksaw....If you would like to mount without drilling holes, trim the plastic on the back and attach the reflector with double sided tape ( sold at body supply shops).

Never tried it on a reflector, but I've cut plastics and vinyl with a chop saw many times by putting the regular blade on backwards.

It's how they tell you to cut vinyl siding right in the manufacture's instructions.

solved a long time ago by various aftermarket vendors

1. there is an electric solenoid ( i use that, with button in center console area)

2. there is a cable release latch device, with cable extended to wherever you prefer (hanging down behind the bumper is a good choice) ( i have an emergency down-cable attached to my electric latch)

3. whichever 2 above you decide - the fail safe solution (or maybe all one needs) is to drill a tiny hole - about 1/8" exactly at the center of the top of the "S" - you can then poke a ground-off-tip tiny screwdriver thru there to pop the latch ( i also have done this)

I will NEVER be "locked out"

if you want to buy either of the 2 aftermarket latch solutions, i have 1 or more of each in a box in storage - P.M. to make an offer including ship & paypal fees [i]

.

Thanks for the responses. I don't know what a chop saw is, but I do have a hacksaw with a fine blade, might try that. I know from past experience that cutting plastic can be dicey, in that if the cutting tool gets too hot, it'll melt the plastic and leave some very rough and uneven edges.

As for a trunk opener, I'm definitely more in line with something manual, like a cable. Sounds like it's fairly easy to do. Even easier would be the small hole in the plastic and sticking a small rod or screwdriver in there to pop the latch. I'll have to take a closer look at the latch mechanism, and figure out how I'm going to do it.

As for mounting the lens, using double edge tape is exactly what I was thinking. I'll use the strong, interlocking plastic type, which should make it stick good and tight. Might also run some weatherstrip along the top and bottom edges, to help keep out water, or just leave it open so water won't get trapped behind it. Now that I think about it, I'll do without the weatherstrip.

Here's a picture of my Solenoid Trunk Release. The Steel Wire running across the top of the Solenoid is bent so it runs down through a very small hole in the trunk and it can be easily reached to pull down to unlatch the lock if the solenoid doesn't work.

When I got my 76, the PO had installed the solenoid latch release. It never really worked right, and took two people to operate - one to press the button under the dash and the other to press down on the trunk lid to finally get the thing to release. My solution was to simply drill a hole in the reflector and reinstall the stock, and working, latch.
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Love my rear Porsche reflector. Have a solenoid with a pull wire backup by the muffler. The reflector met a can of semi-gloss black paint and the rest is history.

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Miter saw

Get a saw, saw it in half, and throw it away.

Ugg-sauce.

My $.02

Wow. I feel people should feel free to express an opinion, IF it was asked for. Which it wasn't. But Being rude about an aesthetic, which are as varied as their are people, is never called for. it's just basic civility which is sorely lacking these days.

I chose to blackout my panel but it's not an editorial statement, just personal choice.

When I first bought my car I was psyched it had the reflector. It took a couple of years before I decided I didn't dig it and preferred the way it came from the factory. ONe day I'll rip it off and weld the holes shut.

In short, you can always go back to stock so don't sweat it. If you like the look, put in on. If you go with the solenoid definitely install a cable to open it manually as a backup because the solenoid will fail eventually.

When I did the double sided tape it became apparent that the reflector needed to be "pulled in" toward the body. To this end, I JB welded a 1/4" nut onto the center reflector so that it lines up with the center of the hole where the lock was. Then, a 1/4" bolt with a large washer was inserted from inside the trunk to that nut. Tightening the screw brought the center of the reflector in and provides an extra measure of safety from it falling off.

My car had the cut down reflector on the car when I bought it. It was poorly installed and didn't really lay flat against the rear panel. Not sure if yours will be snug enough to tape it down security. But there is the possibility that my rear panel is just too tweeked up to be sure. Hope that i can fill all the giant ugly holes in mine and get it back to stock.

Brett

My lens is pretty pliable. I held it up against the trunk yesterday, getting an idea of how much I'll have to cut off each end to fit between the tail lights, and it looks like it'll press flat without too much problems. I might run 4 pieces of double-sided plastic interlocking tape across the back of it, with two pieces at the ends and maybe the other two pieces on either side of the lock hole. Should keep it secure...

Mine has rear reflector and has a hole for the latch. Some likes with it and some don't like it.

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Keep in mind that if you drill a hole through the reflector for the opener it'll likely be worth a bit less should you decide to remove it and sell it later on.


I've learned to live with mine for now.
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