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Full Version: Distributor options - 1911 w/Weber 40's
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Optimusglen
Backstory on my build. Car was built to a 1911 over 20 years ago by a previous owner. Sat in a garage for 20 years before I purchased it and tore it apart. So I'm working with an already modified engine.

Previous owner had no complaints about driveability and really loved the thing.

The car has dual Weber IDF 40's, and a 009 distributor. I'm getting closer to tuning and first start and wanted to get some things squared away.

First, I've read that the 009 is not recommended for these. I'm looking for other options with the caveat that it's fairly inexpensive. My project funds were cut short when my wife and I found out we are having a kid.

Second, if it was running acceptable before, should I just put the 009 back in? What are the tuning issues if I went this route?

Third, if I get a vacuum advance distributor, where to I pull the vacuum from?

And because thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif

IPB Image

IPB Image
This photo sums up the entire project pretty well. Filthy, take it all apart and clean, reassemble with new rubber/seals/gaskets.
IronHillRestorations
Get a distributor from a 1.8 914
brant
Or a bosch 050
Optimusglen
Just saw in one of my older pictures that the P.O. sent along another distributor. I assume it's the original one from the car. (It's a '71, so 1.7 engine)

IPB Image

Would the original 1.7 distributor be a better fit than the 009?
rhodyguy
Not need to plumb for the vac adv. one less thing to worry about. A Mallory would be next. Again w/o the va. The new 123 distributors look interesting but $$.
brant
There are two different numbers/curves for the 1.8 distributors
StratPlayer
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Dec 8 2016, 01:00 PM) *

Not need to plumb for the vac adv. one less thing to worry about. A Mallory would be next. Again w/o the va. The new 123 distributors look interesting but $$.



I'm running a new 123 dist. for a D Jet set up,,, I love it, have had it installed for most of the summer. No trigger points.
mobymutt
This thread of mine is somewhat relevant to your question.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=2&t=293779

Mark Henry's comment, in particular:

"The 050 is semi rare, hasn't been made since the 70's, but it's still sort of sought after by the T1 VW go fast crowd.
They can suffer from bad bushings, check for play in the shaft.

What are you running carbs or L-jet?
Carbs you might be able to keep it, L-jet I'd get a bosch 205 from a 914 or late bay bus.
Personally I like the mallory red cap way better than the 050 or the 009.
If you're on a budget, in the past I've taken an old mallory red cap dual point and modified it with a pertronix."

I have a 1.8 though, so I'm not sure if the recommendations change for a 1911.
cgnj
My recollection is that the the original 009 advance curve is really short, forcing a high initial timing. These were used in industrial motors.
050 is better for type 4 motors, longer curve so less initial timing. It is actually very close to a unilite with grey springs.
Unilites and 050 are nla, so you need to find someone with them and willing to part with them.
Many of the 009s are modified. First check the country of origin. I'd run it an see what you have.
I have run unilite with vacuum, much better fuel economy at cruise.
You want the curve to look like this grey springs
Click to view attachment

050 curve
Optimusglen
Again, not a lot of extra funds to pour into the project at the moment. So as much as I'd love to buy the best thing available, it's really come down to running the 009 I have or the presumably stock 1.7 distributor.

Or, if both of those options are no good, a budget friendly alternative.
rhodyguy
The 009 will work.
Optimusglen
update:


I found an old Mallory dual point dizzy on ebay. going to try and modify it with pertronix
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