Looking for source of oil leaks on my recently built 2.4 Type IV from a '72 1.7L. Engine is clean except for; 1) one small pushrod tube connection to the engine case, 2) oil exiting where the tranny meets the engine case, 3) oil dripping from the engine tin above the pushrod tube, and 4) oil collecting on top of the engine between the carbs and near the upper case bolts on the passenger side - appears to be being blown from under the edge of the engine tin (see pic). There are no leaks from the dizzy or the oil filler area, or from the oil filter, cooler and pump area .
While diagnosis of 1) and 2) was simple, what likely is the source of oil leaks 3) and 4)?Click to view attachment
Full Version: Engine oil leaks.
I have intermittently seen oil accumulations on the top of my 4 2.2L block / Then eliminated them with a reseal of the oil filler gasket. Use Yamabond on both sides of the cork gasket and away it goes. Same thing for the pushrod seals / They do not seal unless a sealant is used - or if they do, only for a while. The Japanese high rev motorcycle market figured this out a while back when at 10K and only air cooled, a sealant is sometimes needed.
New cheap cork gasket and pushrod tube o-rings and a tube of Yamabond will solve most of your worries. but not all.....
Sidebar: If someone tells you a tale of a non leaking type four, it is a tale of a time well past. Do not buy land from him. Do not date his sister. And,... do not expect his repairs to be permanent or effective.
Keep in mind that in the forty's the German's believed they would own Saudi Arabia and have a permanent supply of cheap oil / hence the Desert Porsche.
I have been driving and wrenching Porsches for over four decades / from 356's to 996's to 911's and 914's... to, well,..... you get the picture......... they all leak. My C4S leaked. My 993 leaked. All other 911 and 914's leaked. Porsche invented the oil pan with capacity between blue-blood service intervals at the dealer to hold the drips.... I am working on a 914 oil pan in carbon fiber / but the cost outweighs the concern. live with it and drive at maximum enjoyment whenever possible.
New cheap cork gasket and pushrod tube o-rings and a tube of Yamabond will solve most of your worries. but not all.....
Sidebar: If someone tells you a tale of a non leaking type four, it is a tale of a time well past. Do not buy land from him. Do not date his sister. And,... do not expect his repairs to be permanent or effective.
Keep in mind that in the forty's the German's believed they would own Saudi Arabia and have a permanent supply of cheap oil / hence the Desert Porsche.
I have been driving and wrenching Porsches for over four decades / from 356's to 996's to 911's and 914's... to, well,..... you get the picture......... they all leak. My C4S leaked. My 993 leaked. All other 911 and 914's leaked. Porsche invented the oil pan with capacity between blue-blood service intervals at the dealer to hold the drips.... I am working on a 914 oil pan in carbon fiber / but the cost outweighs the concern. live with it and drive at maximum enjoyment whenever possible.
Forrest too damn funny having raced dirt bikes for 20 years I now all about the Yama bond and yamalube haha. This stuff works. The rest of your post is just flat A double S funny.
All air cooled engines leak oil. If not presently, soon. Take a walk about the tarmac and check out the aircraft. 
Hey Forrest, aren't you building another air sucker? 
Hey Forrest, aren't you building another air sucker?
The quest to build a leak free air cooled motor is akin to finding the holy grail,if they don't leak straight off they sweat then leak,run them hot and they leak more.
IMO the T4 isn't that bad,the 911 motor has a whole bunch of extra places to leak,I started off dry,1 hour of running I had 5 leaks 2 major 3 just weeping,then my oil cooler popped.....now that is a leak
.Click to view attachment .
I'am now down to 3 small leaks which I have yet to address.
Modern sealers go a long way to making an engine stay dry for longer,engine builders have lots of little tricks that go a long way to sorting the issue,one thing I have noticed is these old engines tend to leak more using the modern (thinner) oils.
IMO the T4 isn't that bad,the 911 motor has a whole bunch of extra places to leak,I started off dry,1 hour of running I had 5 leaks 2 major 3 just weeping,then my oil cooler popped.....now that is a leak
.Click to view attachment .I'am now down to 3 small leaks which I have yet to address.
Modern sealers go a long way to making an engine stay dry for longer,engine builders have lots of little tricks that go a long way to sorting the issue,one thing I have noticed is these old engines tend to leak more using the modern (thinner) oils.
More thought and inspection -- I remembered the "sloppy" fit of the short (1"x1/2" approx) aluminum pipes that are inserted into the heads to carry oil and oil fumes in hoses away from the space under the valve covers.
Reading many posts here, there is a debate as to whether to cap these holes or connect hoses to them to carry oil and or vapor away from the heads. It is not possible to inspect these short pipes to see if oil is leaking around them with the engine tin and carbs and linkage in place. I will remove the carbs and if necessary intake manifolds to get a good look at these pipes, as I believe this is the source of leaking oil which gravitates down onto the lower tin, pushrod sleeves, exhaust pipes, and onto the ground, with some of it being blown by the engine fan to any number of other places, including some onto the top of the engine block. There is no oil leaking from the oil "cap", having recently replaced the seal with gasket seal.
One post described a good permanent solution to these "crude" short aluminum pipe fittings, involving machining threads in these holes to fasten a 1/4" NPT fitting with hose barbs. This should not be done unless the head has been removed in order to capture the aluminum cuttings from thread cutting. So until the heads are removed, what alternative "cementing" of the original short aluminum pipes into these holes is recommended: JBWeld, Yamabond Adhesive, other?
Reading many posts here, there is a debate as to whether to cap these holes or connect hoses to them to carry oil and or vapor away from the heads. It is not possible to inspect these short pipes to see if oil is leaking around them with the engine tin and carbs and linkage in place. I will remove the carbs and if necessary intake manifolds to get a good look at these pipes, as I believe this is the source of leaking oil which gravitates down onto the lower tin, pushrod sleeves, exhaust pipes, and onto the ground, with some of it being blown by the engine fan to any number of other places, including some onto the top of the engine block. There is no oil leaking from the oil "cap", having recently replaced the seal with gasket seal.
One post described a good permanent solution to these "crude" short aluminum pipe fittings, involving machining threads in these holes to fasten a 1/4" NPT fitting with hose barbs. This should not be done unless the head has been removed in order to capture the aluminum cuttings from thread cutting. So until the heads are removed, what alternative "cementing" of the original short aluminum pipes into these holes is recommended: JBWeld, Yamabond Adhesive, other?
Heads vents are not hard to see. Even with djet. The driver's side is clearly visible. Passenger side might take a light and mirror but it can be seen.
If you want to come by and fix it on my lift let me know.
QUOTE(colingreene @ Dec 15 2016, 01:04 PM) 
If you want to come by and fix it on my lift let me know.
Thanks, will let you know.
Caryism ..............
It's only a leak if it hits the ground or drops on the heat exchanger.
If it stays on the engine or tranny it's a weep.
It's only a leak if it hits the ground or drops on the heat exchanger.
If it stays on the engine or tranny it's a weep.
QUOTE(cary @ Dec 17 2016, 03:42 AM)
Caryism ..............
It's only a leak if it hits the ground or drops on the heat exchanger.
If it stays on the engine or tranny it's a weep.
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