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I'm asking about parts 73-76 on the diagram. One of the retainers (#76) broke and when I disassembled the carb and items 74 & 75 went flying. I though I remember reading a while ago that these parts do not need to be reinstalled and the hole can be plugged. I tried the search function but could not find where I read it.
Some thoughts if I don't need to reinstall these parts is to thread the hole and install a plug, or JB weld it shut, or JB weld the plunger (#73) in the hold to seal it off. My carbs have a block off plate on the side and no actual choke linkage (item 59).
Thanks
Full Version: Help with Weber IDF 40 rebuild
I dont use them.
I just pump the pedal once and hold the throttle slightly open once i hear it start to catch and its always worked just fine for me.
I just pump the pedal once and hold the throttle slightly open once i hear it start to catch and its always worked just fine for me.
I just ran into this on a customer car.
You pull out the retaining ring, clip, and spring and make sure the tapered seat on the cold start plunger appears to have a nice clean seat. Then tap the plunger bore (3/8 x 24 IIRC) and put a set screw with a dab of thread locker to hold the plunger seated. Make sure to start the tap in a drill press or it's easy to get the tap started off plumb.
You also have to get some gasket material and make a gasket for the cover plate. The car I worked on didn't have a gasket and was leaking fuel.
If you do a search you'll find an old thread on the Samba.
You pull out the retaining ring, clip, and spring and make sure the tapered seat on the cold start plunger appears to have a nice clean seat. Then tap the plunger bore (3/8 x 24 IIRC) and put a set screw with a dab of thread locker to hold the plunger seated. Make sure to start the tap in a drill press or it's easy to get the tap started off plumb.
You also have to get some gasket material and make a gasket for the cover plate. The car I worked on didn't have a gasket and was leaking fuel.
If you do a search you'll find an old thread on the Samba.
QUOTE(Perry Kiehl @ Dec 27 2016, 10:10 PM) 
I just ran into this on a customer car.
You pull out the retaining ring, clip, and spring and make sure the tapered seat on the cold start plunger appears to have a nice clean seat. Then tap the plunger bore (3/8 x 24 IIRC) and put a set screw with a dab of thread locker to hold the plunger seated. Make sure to start the tap in a drill press or it's easy to get the tap started off plumb.
You also have to get some gasket material and make a gasket for the cover plate. The car I worked on didn't have a gasket and was leaking fuel.
If you do a search you'll find an old thread on the Samba.
Thanks Perry; that's exactly what I was thinking. I expanded my search this morning and found the procedure on the 356registry forum Weber cold start conversion which also states you can remove the cold start jets as they are not needed with this procedure.
Good tip on using a drill press to tap the hole. Thanks
No you have to keep the plungers (73), 74-5-6 you toss.
Do what Perry said and you are locking the plungers permanently in place.
If you use JB weld I bet you'll fuchs your carbs.
Do what Perry said and you are locking the plungers permanently in place.
If you use JB weld I bet you'll fuchs your carbs.
OK, carbs are rebuilt and adjusted. I was able to do the mod to add set screws to hold the starter valves seated on 1 carb but the other carb did not have starter valves. Instead someone had tapped the hole below the starter valve seat, basically in the passage from the starter valve to the exit on the bottom of the carb. So I reinstalled these small setscrews using blue locktite. Got the carbs adjusted and went for a 75 mile drive and it ran great. Thanks for the help...
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