Wonders of all. There's a DIY auto shop opened up about 45 minutes away with a 2 post lift for rental. Not only a fun drive but a place to wrench on the 914.

Where do you place the lift pads? Donuts? Longs? or ?? What about the CG on the lift. Is there a perfect balance point for normal work vs engine removal?

And, if I drove 45 minutes to use the shop, how long of a cool down is normal before adjusting the valves?

I place mine on the donuts to work on the car. Anytime the guys put a car on a lift at our shop, they raise it up 6 inches, then push up and down on each end of the car. You have to be careful for engine removal since it can change the cg on a car quickly.

Hey Bill, I've never used a lift before either so I'm curious too
whereabouts is the shop? i'm interested in that as well
sending you a pm


cjl

Put it on the donuts using hockey pucks, never even as much as a scratch on the donut or jackpoints of other cars.
Yes, I said hockey pucks.
Of course if the car is crunchy then all bets are off...

Only a Canadian would think of using hockey pucks.

I thought I've always read it should be stone cold or "overnight" cold before adjusting valves. Kind of tough in a DIY shop 45 minutes away, unless someone has better info for you

I use them as bump stops for my lifted Jeep. But I'm up dare hey dare, in WI.

The car should sit overnight or the engine should be cold. By the time you drive up there and let it cool you could have it all done at home with jack stands. Take off the rear wheels. It's not too bad.

I don't use the front 'donuts'. They're too far inboard for me. So I just aim for the front end of the long, where the pinch weld seam curves inward.

I've used the donuts for the last 40 years with no issues. The hockey pucks are not bad ideas, but should they be attached with an adhesive to the pads?

I also do the 'shake' test before getting under the car.