Whats the word on the street? I think I am close to needing some, but there are a few options.....

Man, I have been reading reviews for the last few days for a clue. So many opinions. Most seem to agree that the 2K stuff outperforms. Finally today I gave up and I bought a tube of 2k SEM 40477 Heavy Bodied White Seam Sealer to try. Im hoping for the best and that the extra money is worth it.

-Andrew

Ive always had better luck with seam sealer by warming it up to get it a little thinner.
It is easier to work with.... especially this time of year...

Get the 3M Ultrapro auto body sealant. Tan color. The clear is just okay. The regular tan stuff is amazing. It comes in a tube and sticks really well, very durable and no issues with reasonably hot areas of car. I have found many other uses for this stuff on my car.

Evercoat brushable seam sealer in the quart can.

You use a gloved finger to apply along welded panels, etc.

Dries quick & firm. Near impossible to remove. Ruined many a wire brush trying to fix an error.

Obviously not OEM (not that that was neat & tidy), but Far superior to FLAPS caulk-style options.

One other 3M product I have used if Body Shootz.... you use a gun to spray it . its is a paintable undercoating. Super product...

+1 I just applied some this week.
Available at O'Reillys.
Also used the Eastwood brushable/paintable seam sealer; seems to be identical substance.

My vote is none! I like the clean seams

+1 on the Evercoat. I like it better than the 3m.
The Evercoat can seems to hold up better than the 3m. I apply it with one those little brushes at HF cut down to about an inch long. And after long periods on non use the texture stays true to form.
Another thing to consider is whether the product is for over paint or direct to metal (DTM). Most say right on the face of the product.
Seems that most of the restoration shops are using products from the FUSOR line.
http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions...adhesive-(slow)

Thanks all. I thought the 2k would be the best, but the little I have read said it was hard to work with and dries too fast. I will pick up some Evercoat.

I've seen more problems with seam sealer than help. It traps and hides moisture. If you have clean connections and paint it, you can see what's happening. If you cover over with gloop, you have no idea what's developing under there. Obviously it depends on your build.

Reviving this thread to ask a couple more questions.

1. On a complete resto, should I remove all of the original sealer, even in areas where it is in good shape and no apparent rust?

2. Is there an affordable, sprayable sealer that could mimic the factory look without sacrificing protection?

You have to hand it to that original sealer. It fights like a tiger to stay on the car and does and excellent job of promoting rust. But leaving seams exposed to trap moisture and crud seems like asking for trouble. I think there is a reason cars continue to be manufactured with copious seam sealer applied.

Any neat tricks for removing that old stuff? So far I've found heat, elbow grease, and a healthy dose of cursing works best.

A pneumatic needle scaler works well in the areas it's not too thick. Gets it down to bare metal.

Wurth sprayable, get the pneumatic gun. To remove get the Wurth DBS3600, get off as much off as you can.
Mike

Thanks guys. I think I'll give the needle scaler a go. It's not everyday I learn about a new tool. The Wurth DBS3600 is a little spendy for a one project hobby tool. But the Wurth sprayable and pneumatic gun is doable. I don't know why it matters since I don't plan to show this thing, but I like the idea of leaving the car looking factory fresh after I've worked on it.

Depending on where you're trying to remove it, I've had great luck with a big, gnarly wire wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder. One of those nasty twisted ones. Heat from a torch or heat gun seems to help if you're scraping... should probably wear a mask though because it sure smells funny once it's caught on fire.

On another note, I haven't used it but I've read good reviews for both the brushable and the tubes of Eastwood seam sealer. Will likely go that route myself.

Wurth and Fix a Dent have the same product, FaD is cheeper, they remove paint, rust, seam sealer and undercoat without hurting the metal and leave a good paint key, the trick is without producing heat, the death nell for sheetmetal.
This is the area not to scrimp, especially doing it your self, wirewheels are no match for the aggresive wheel, (they can be sharpened to reuse), it'll save you a LOT of time.
Find the replacement "belts" on ebay, all the same quality, look for price.
Just saying.
Mike

heater tube from engine compartment.
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Brent,

I will give you some ideas on what to use. If you use air tools you will need a good compressor that flows a lot of air. I have a true 5 HP with 80 gal tank that flows a lot of air at working pressure. I used a combination of air tools. Shown are my box and the tools and different heads. It took a lot of them but it got off the undercoating and the balance of paint after I used a water base paint remover. If you use a water base paint remover on your car only do small areas and cover it with cellophane wrap so it will not evaporate to fast. The needle tool is very hard on the hands. Green wheel for big areas, air tool with small 3/M type red colored 3 in pads that screwed into the air tool. I bought 50 at a time on eBay. After my car was done to what I thought was good Eric (P.M.B) sent it out for media blasting

Bob B
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