Hmmmm, fired up Manfred and then tested the emergency cut off switch mounted on the deck lid....rpms dipped but it kept running. Anyone have a schematic so I can see if the PO wired it right?

Or is it supposed to run until I kill the ignition in the cockpit and the switch only kills the battery?

its a negative ground cutoff correct?

Nope....it's wired into the positive.

Not sure what ignition you are running, but I have to wire in something that keeps the alternator from feeding the ignition with voltage. Pretty sure it is just a resistor. The cutoff switches I buy come with the resistor.

PCA club racing tests them at 3KRPM.. rev the engine to 3KRPM..then cut it off. Many people have them wired wrong and the alt will keep the car running. They found out some Alt. dont do anything below a certain RPM.. so they had to change their test methods (instead of an idle cutoff test..rev it up)


B

I hope that RPM dip wasn't your alternator diodes frying.

Figured as such.....I turned the key right back on after it did not kill the engine. Figured something was not quite right. Dealing with PO issues right now.

The tach decided to take a shit and the oil temp gauge is a bit wacko.....got the head temp sender going right...working the RootWerk bell crank adapter kit....I need another rod for the carbs. The cable actuator that I rigged works OK...but I like the stock setup.

Prolly gonna keep Manfred since I can't even get an insult for a sale price and I got approved for the re fi on the house.....

MSD box Mikey ?


B

Nope....stock 2.0/6 "S" ignition from an early 911....with the Porsche CDI....

I had the run on problem with Frank....but it was when I killed the key switch in the dash....THERE I did the diode and it cured it...Frank runs a Crane CDI.

your tach took a dump because the alt.spiked voltage when it didnt sense the batt.
best way to wire the e-switch is to isolate the charge wire from the alt. from the off side of the switch. in other words. the batt. and charge wire from the alt. go to one side and your main hot wire to the harness and starter are on the other side. switch off = no ignition.
ran across this alot while tech inspecting at the local circle track.
dont forget to fuse the tach. we had alot of guys blame us for blowing they're tach by testing the e-switch.
and one wire alt. need to run up around 1500rpm or more to kick on.

Are you talking D+ or the other bigger wire?

BTW...the tach died prior to my experiment....

QUOTE ("Z" @ Apr 29 2005, 07:03 PM)

Are you talking D+ or the other bigger wire? BTW...the tach died prior to my experiment....

bummer...i was gonna rag on you for killin your tach

big wire. domestic alt. say batt.
that wire should be the one that sends curret to the battery. the d+ i think would be to the voltage gauge

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Apr 29 2005, 06:04 PM)

QUOTE ("Z" @ Apr 29 2005, 07:03 PM) Are you talking D+ or the other bigger wire?   BTW...the tach died prior to my experiment.... bummer...i was gonna rag on you for killin your tach

Don't worry...I'll do sumthin stoopid later.

So....big wire off the alt goes thru the kill switch?

with the pos. from the battery.
don't do the neg. keep that to the chassis or to another cut out on the battery to make disconnecting it easy when doing electrical work or storing.

Z you IDIOT! That's the "Valet" switch

(sorry, nothing useful here...)