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80cap
I read all the brake bleeding threads and I am still not getting a pedal.
I have the pressure bleeder, PMB,rebuilt calipers,new stainless lines, 19mm master cylinder, so all should be good to go. The only part I haven't replaced is the pressure regulator. Today we are going to try again, so any ideas from the members is more than appreciated. I been doing brakes a long time and have never had any problems before.
Just never did a 914 before.
Brian headbang.gif
zach914v8
QUOTE(80cap @ Jan 22 2017, 08:36 AM) *

I read all the brake bleeding threads and I am still not getting a pedal.
I have the pressure bleeder, PMB,rebuilt calipers,new stainless lines, 19mm master cylinder, so all should be good to go. The only part I haven't replaced is the pressure regulator. Today we are going to try again, so any ideas from the members is more than appreciated. I been doing brakes a long time and have never had any problems before.
Just never did a 914 before.
Brian headbang.gif


It's not a URO master is it?
80cap
I'm not sure if it is a uro part. How can I identify it or not. I bought it off Ebay I think.
Brian
zach914v8
If it was cheap (like65-90) and it was from ebay, odds are its a URO. I have had a bad one out of the box before for a jag. I don't trust URO parts. The master may or may not be your problem. One way to find out is crack one line barely open at the master and have someone in the car slowly push the brake pedal to the floor. If fluid comes out in decent volume on each port your master is probably ok. Once the person in the car gets to the bottom of travel have them hold the pedal down and re sung the line you are working on. If you re snug with the pedal up you can capture air.


Also, do this with each line a few times. The master could be good but maybe air is trapped in the in it. You can do this process a few times and see if and bubbles come out.

I am sure someone here will chime in with more knowledge. Brakes can be tricky on these cars.
80cap
Zach
It wasn't cheap,I will try checking the flow again today.
Brian
Boomingbeetle
Ive never done the master in my teener, but I've done plenty of aftermarket masters in old muscle cars. The problem 75% of the time is the pushrod into the master is not the right length. Especially if you're going from a single reservoir to dual zone (front/rear).
80cap
I have thrown in the towel! I must have a bad master cylinder. I will give PMB a call in the morning.
90% done 90% to go. beer3.gif
motorvated
QUOTE(80cap @ Jan 22 2017, 03:31 PM) *

I have thrown in the towel! I must have a bad master cylinder. I will give PMB a call in the morning.
90% done 90% to go. beer3.gif


I agree with Boomingbeetle. I swapped my 17 mm mc with a 19 mm and bled, and bled, and bled ... until I adjusted the pushrod going into the new mc. Once I did that, I had a firm pedal. You might want to try that before claiming that your mc is bad. Just my 2 cents.
80cap
QUOTE(motorvated @ Jan 22 2017, 07:11 PM) *

QUOTE(80cap @ Jan 22 2017, 03:31 PM) *

I have thrown in the towel! I must have a bad master cylinder. I will give PMB a call in the morning.
90% done 90% to go. beer3.gif


I agree with Boomingbeetle. I swapped my 17 mm mc with a 19 mm and bled, and bled, and bled ... until I adjusted the pushrod going into the new mc. Once I did that, I had a firm pedal. You might want to try that before claiming that your mc is bad. Just my 2 cents.

I'll give it a try
Brian
BillC
I recently had a problem with an NOS 17mm master cylinder that went bad just sitting on a shelf -- it wouldn't pump up, and then later started leaking from the rear end (the end where the pushrod goes). Replaced it with a new one from PMB, and no more problems.

On a bittersweet note, I've gotten pretty good at installing the feed lines and grommets on top of the MC. headbang.gif
TravisNeff
Skip the motive bleeder and get a 2nd person to pump the brakes while you bleed.
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