The stud - The Bitch;
I hate to say it - but - if I try any harder to remove this rocker stud - I could be headed for a machine shop. The grey material at the base of this stud look like J-B Weld - and my double nut removal technique has failed to coax it out. BTW- At this point on the other side I have completed r & r without any drama.
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So here's my question: should I leave it as installed - or break out my big boy toyz to remove? I REALLY don't want to install my "new" engine with 7 RAT rocker studs instead of the 8 she needs.
Right about now I'm thinkin' about a propane torch & Vise Grips!!!
Help me Mr. Mrs. Wizard!!!

Nice looking head.

I agree. Sounds like it's time for the gas ax.

-Rusty

Hi
Yup its heat time...don't know if propane alone will be anough but its worth a shot..
Later
Joe

So -
What if I leave it in place???
The engine came to me as a "complete" longblock". But, it's a really "wimpy" rebuild.
I've been addressing "short-comings" of a cheap rebuild prior to install.
Maybe I don't need to fix what's not broken. I don't feel good about installing 7 of 8
rocker studs - but I think I'm gonna feel worse when I eff this ONE stud up & then have to deal with the carnage.
I'm gonna sleep on it & then check out your recommendations...

I would try the propane first. My little brazing torch has loosened lots of stuck bits and pieces without bringing everything in the general area to the point of incandescence (sp?) like my sloppy oxy-acetylene work. You have the right idea, think it through, keep calm, nice and easy.

Ahhh, MAPP gas and a good set of vice-grips. She'll come out. I had to help Shad Laws pull his like that. What a PIA.

It'll come out.

Later,
Tom

Why do you have to remove it? Just rethread the damaged threads and install as before or redie it to a smaller nut and install with a washer. It'd be a shame to wreck that head. No?

The base of the stud is coated in gray sealant. It looks like J-B weld to me.
All of the other studs so far have been removed with a 'lil PB Blaster, a double nut and or vise grips. This one stud will not turn - at all. Which again makes me think they used J-B weld. Anyway, the threads are ok so I've decided - I'm not going to try and harder...
And I'm not going to replace this stud.
Thanks all,

Wimp....the guys at AA would have gotten it out.....

Heat that rocker pad up with a torch... Don't get it super hot, just around 300 or so degrees.. The stud will come out even if it is JB welded in...

BTW- Lets hop you only have a stock cam in that engine, those stock retainers, springs and especially the valve adjusters are only safe when the valvetrain is otherwise stock. ANY cam change, no matter how slight demands the use of better springs, retainers and adjusters.... Else you are just waiting for excess wear or possibly catastrophic failure..

Why would someone JB Weld the stud in? could the head be stripped and this was a fix to keep the stud from pulling out? If this is the case, can you retap the head and get a stud with a larger dia at the base only?