Hey guys...

I have only had my teener for about 4 weeks and I am just now getting to do a complete PM overhaul...

I am planning on doing the following:

Oil Change
Gear Lube Flush
Brake Fluid Flush
Air Filter (if needed)
Fuel Filter (if needed)
Rotors and pads (if needed)
Valve Gaps
Timing

I have a few questions, if you all will permit me...

RE: Oil Capacity
Got started today and got the oil out with no problem. I also pulled the strainer to drain whatever else I could. Why is it, that when I put the plug back into the pan, and add 2 quarts of oil, the oil on the dipstick is almost 1/2" over the top mark?

RE: Timing
Okay, I am a young feller, and I have little to no experience on adjusting timing. I am completely confident in my abilites as a shadetree mechanic, but I need a, "Setting Timing for Dummies;" or "Distributers for Dummies;" if you know what I am saying. I have a Chilton's, a Haynes, and a Shop Manual for the 914. Unfortunately, they assume that their reader has some base knowledge of the process, of which I do not (verbiage and all).

I have a timing light (craftsman), feeler gauges and the whole bit. I know the following (correct me if I am wrong)...
Put car in 5th, grab one of the rear wheels (while the other is on a ramp) and turn it until you see the Top Dead Center mark on the blower (fan)...hook up your timing light to the battery and cylinder one on the distributer cap...(I think)...
After that I am lost...




I hope I haven't wasted members' time and space with this request. Your advice is respectfully asked and, if given, will be duly appreciated. My sincere thanks to all who respond.


RR

Should be 3-3.5 quarts...did ya pull the filter?

On the trans....fill it till it pukes....use Swepco.

Timing and valves....do a search. Captain Krusty just did a nice write up on valve adjustment.

As to timing....unless there's a problem....leave it alone.

It also depends on what system and dizzy you are running....

I did pull the filter...

I just can't figure out why the oil is so high on the dipstick after only adding one quart...


I was going to use Castrol 80W-90 Gear Lube...The only reason is that the previous owner had some maintainance records that stated that Castrol was what was used previously...

Well...my first question would be...stock motor? You have the right dipstick?

Yeah...stock motor...I am sure it is the correct dipstick...

Maybe once I get the car off the Jackstands then the oil will settle? That is what I have been telling myself, anyway...

When reinstalling the screen and sump cover, NEVER tighten the nut to more than 11 ft/lbs! NEVER. Always check the oil with the car as close to level as possible. It takes a little under 4 quarts. Now, on to the gear oil..... "Flush"?? Why? Gear oil doesn't wear out, and doesn't build up a residue like motor oil, because it isn't made nasty by combustion. Save your bucks. Whatever gear oil you use, it MUST be straight GL-5. No mixtures, no "top off" oils, and NO additives! GL-4 will toast your synchros. Always remove the fill plug first, just so you know you can fill it back up after you drain it! 5.5 pints. 17mm allen key. The brake flush ............... Use a good DOT 4 brake fluid, and run at least a litre through the brake system. See my recent article on valve adjustment. Easier, better. Replace the fuel filter once a year. Use the real deal, the square one, or the round metal filter for a 1974 BMW Tii. DO NOT use a filter meant for a low pressure carb application. It doesn't remove enough cr*p from the fuel. Enjoy! The Cap'n

And don't use blue RTV or braided brake lines....you will more than likely....D I E....

QUOTE ("Z" @ May 1 2005, 09:35 PM)

And don't use blue RTV or braided brake lines....you will more than likely....D I E....

or K & N filters

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ May 1 2005, 07:46 PM)

When reinstalling the screen and sump cover, NEVER tighten the nut to more than 11 ft/lbs! NEVER.

...I personally would stop at 9 lb-ft, since the spec is 9.4 lb-ft.

The filter holds anywhere from a half-quart of oil to a full quart. If you did not fill the new filter up before you put it on the engine, the oil level will drop significantly once the engine has run for a minute. And the pitch angle of the car has a significant effect on the oil level reading in the engine and the transmission. If you have the ass of the car up in the air, engine will have less oil than is shown on the dipstick (oil sloshes forward toward the dipstick) and the transmission will have more oil than it seems (transmission oil will slosh away from the fill hole). Check the oil/gear oil levels with the car on level ground, or as close to it as you can reasonably manage.

Check the tech articles on the Bird site (URL in my sig below) for some good detailed info on setting the timing and adjusting the valves. Also, John Muir's "VW Idiot Book" is actually a good source of the very very basic how-to info. Not all of what he says really applies to 914s, but some of the most basic stuff does.

BTW, I think that it is not that easy to get an idea of the "feel" of a feeler gauge from reading. I think the best thing to do would be to get a buddy who knows how to adjust valves to stop by and do one for you. Then you can see how the gauge feels in the gap. That will give you an idea of how to set up the rest of the valves.

--DD

Oil changes are easy:

Every 3000 miles replace the oil fiilter, add 4 quarts.

Done.

This overfills it slightly but there is ample room in the case for it. T4 engines burn a little oil anyway so its extra protection and helps prevent starvation around those twisty corners we chase...