Guys
Need to rebuild my ECU for my 76 2.0
Please let me know what shops provide these services.
Thanks
Frank

Nobody i know of i'm afraid. It would be much easier to get a used one.


Are you sure the ECU is bad? I ask because they rarely fail.
If you have someone else with a '76 close by, you could swap them to make sure it's the ECU.


PS:

Well now, they can & do fail from time to time, sorry to say.

I had mine fail back in the late 1980's when my 73 2L was my DD, & it was rebuilt by BRET - the predecessor company to FIC, when they were in the South Bay area of LA - near Pelican, who uses them for their rebuilt ECUs).

They've been doing them for 45+ years now.

https://www.fuelinjectioncorp.com/

PS - I agree with Andy, to first check & eliminate everything else first, cuz otherwise you could pay for a rebuild that you don't need, & still have the problem which led you to this point.

Good Luck!
Tom
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True, but it is rare. How many times have we seen someone think the ECU is/was the problem. Regardless, you should be able to pick one up cheaply as the 76 gets scraped out often. Place an ad in the Classified section here.

http://www.ecudoctors.com/


I have talked to these folks. Very nice.

They were discussed on the Bird Board.

I'm sending a -044 2.0 board there next week. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

They say they do D-jet all the time.

Thanks for the info. Also, note that their website certificate has expired.

So that's one in 30 years ...

Just like i said, they rarely fail.

Get someone to loan you a known good unit.

IIRC there is a thread showing a series of continuity tests that brain must be able to perform ( Bowlsby ? )

Not that I am aware of. The FI testers have a defined series of ECU tests and the better testers test each of the functions of the ECU. My EFI Associates tester and VW1218 tester both do that.

I had a period where I was swapping ECUs to see if they had any effect on how the car ran. One of them did--it hydro-locked the motor with fuel! That was out of on the order of ten well-used units. The fuel pump control circuit was also flaky, actually.

Most "computer" problems in these cars are actually ignition problems. Most that aren't ignition are electrical wire problems, or vacuum. Very very few are problems with the ECU.

See if Garold has a late D-jet ECU for you to test with. If not him, maybe try Brad Mayeur at 914 Limited. Chances are pretty good that a different ECU won't make any difference.

--DD

I've had one fail. It filled up with water when it was stored outside without the end all the way on securely. But it was more like I failed it.

So here is the situation.
With ignition to on, can hear the realy for the 1.5 seconds
I removed my fuel pump and hooked to power and it works.
Also checked the wires to pump and there is power for the 1.5 seconds.
This car ran just fine last fall and when started this year was fine till I got down the road a mile from the house and went dead. I was low on gas and maybe out of gas so refilled and no start , so went thru the above tests.

Maybe I'm not understanding what you're saying, but from you wrote, it sounds like the ECU, at least the fuel pump control circuit, is working properly. What is not working that makes you believe the ECU is at fault?

BTW, in general, it's very easy to test the basic function of the ECU. First, test the fuel pump, by turning the key to "on" and listening to hear if it runs for 1.5 sec. Next, without starting the car and the key in the "on" position, slowly depress the throttle to the floor. You should hear 20 clicks from the injectors, which tells you that the injector driver circuit of the ECU (one of the rare circuits in the ECU that fails) is working. Now, crank the car with a voltmeter across the fuel pump, if you see +12V, the overall fuel pump circuit is working. If the car starts and the fuel pump continues to see +12V, you've now shown the prime, crank, and run functions of the fuel pump circuit are working.

If the car starts, use a Noid light (like $10 or less from Amazon) on each of the injectors. If they all flash, then you've just tested all of the timing loop circuits, the pulse width multiplier, and a host of other circuits. It's likely your ECU is OK.

You can also test the TS1 and TS2 (temperature sensors) circuits by disconnecting them while the engine is running. Disconnecting TS1 (air) should change the running slightly, disconnecting TS2 (head) should cause the engine to stall rich. If the engine runs and all cylinders show firing with the Noid light, then the trigger contact points circuit is working correctly.

To test it further, you'd need to do more specialized tests, like measuring the injector pulse width as a function of load and engine speed, which would require equipment most people don't have.

See my ECU page (link in sig) for more details. Here's a link to the block diagram. You should be able to verify the functioning of most of the subsystems in the ECU through the tests I outlined.

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/ecu.ht11.gif

I would like some instructions on removing the wire harness that connects at the bottom. It looks like all the wires enter the metal housing but don't really see a plug type to pull out.?
Appreciate assistance
Frank

There is a metal clamp that holds the harness inplace.

Remove the ecu from the mounting bracket first.

Carefully undo the harness clamp.

Remove the cover and then grip the white plastic conector from the sides and pull it out. It is a spade type copper connector.

It's a little tricky. Remove the three (IIRC) screws that hold that plastic plate on the side. The plate then should slide off in the direction of the wiring harness. Because it may be on there tight, or the harness may be slightly bunched up, it does not always slide off silky smooth. It may require a little effort. Once that plate is off you should see flexible plastic straps that you can use as a handle to pull the connector straight out and off of the ECU board.

Getting it back on is a little tricky for the same reason. The wiring harness doesn't give you much room for error in how it's installed.

Guys, thanks. I did get it out. Very tight fit around the engine and battery frame.
Removed the clamp and slid the side lane. Past the harness and then remove the small screws hold the harness in , gently pullled and it's now disconnected and out.
Weird engineering for this unit !!!
Thanks for asssitance
Frank