Hello members
I have a '76 2.0 with an upgraded big bore powerplant from FAT. I do some autocross with it and take it out to shows. Is there an option for a stronger/longer lasting clutch other than original? if so, are there any downfalls other than pedal pressure, premature thrust bearing failure, tranny or other issues it can cause. Thanks for the guidence.
Robert

how many years did the stock one last?

I replaced it about 1 1/2 years ago. Not a daily driver because we only have 7 months out of the year to drive it here in Chicago

I'd stick with the stock Sachs clutch and pressure plate. A good compromise between clamping force and pedal pressure that should live a long time. Back when I was doing autocrosses on a weekly or biweekly schedule, I got three years (plus daily driving) on my stock clutch.

I initially used a puck style clutch when I built my big engined conversion, and will never make that mistake again on a car that's street driven.

1.5 years is not much that for sure, seems rather premature , what kind of power does a FAT motor produce.

You might try a 914-6 or 911 clutch (6-spring vs 4), which will only have modestly more pedal pressure, but do the correct TO Bearing & all that stuff for that clutch too at the same time. Sachs makes them.

And then there are other mfgrs. for 911 clutches more along racer lines with more difference. You'll just want the 901 trans versions from the earlier 911s up to 72 IIRC, before they switched to the 915 trans in 911s.


Tom
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I'm running a stock Sachs PP with a 6 spring dsc and the only thing I did was undercut the 2nd step by .015".
180hp is considered the threshold.

My car is 180hp 2600cc EFI type 4, with a 914/4 geared 901/911 trans.
The only thing different is it's in a VW beetle which about 400lbs lighter than a 914.

It was built by PO but they are 102's Probably around 165hp. Never had it tested.

I agree with tom go with 911 seems stock new should last a bit longer then 1.5 though...did you adjust during maintenance good luck

You should be good, did it fail? Slipping? Or are you just thinking upgrade?

A few things:

Is it adjusted proper? you should have 3/4" play at the pedal.
Does the pedal move freely?
Any main or input shaft seal leaks?
Oil contamination could also be a flywheel O-ring leak.
You might want to check to spec between the face and 2nd step.
Nothing kills a disc quicker than resting your foot on the pedal.

6 spring disc early 911 s pressure plate alum steal faced $$$$$

Stock Sachs or CenterForce work well...

http://www.centerforce.com/products/produc...utch-cover-disc

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I plan to pull the engine out completely for the first time and check everything thoroughly. When I received the car it had some trans/shaft leaks so I just dropped the clutch and gearbox and replaced disk only. What should I look for on the pressure plate? I will look for the step down on the flywheel and replace bushings and seals. Anything else? IIRC it was a 4 spring disc that I put in the last time. Play in pedal right now is 1 3/4"

some times the cheapest way is not the best value,ya gotta have good stuff if your gonna work it hard at AX... look for bluing and cracks migrating from the bolt holes..if it was me everything between the motor and trans would be new good luck