I currently have my car lowered for racing.
Brant tells me that I will likely blow out a shock because I have almost zero travel left.

I also need to add another ~1 degree of camber for the Hoosiers.

So I want to buy the Elephant Racing offset (decambered) balljoints:
http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/b...14balljoint.htm

They take the wedge bolt style of fastener.
My car is a 71 so I assume that I have early spindles.
One side of my car has the round bolt holding the balljoint in, the other side has the wedge bolt.
The PO must have replaced just one balljoint.

So if I want to install these balljoints on an early spindle, will that be a problem?

And if I want raised spindles, would I be better off buying a set of late spindles to raise?

I also learned that you can swap early versus late rotors, but you have to swap the calipers with them.
So I currently have late rotors and calipers on the early strut/spindles.

bdstone already gave me some advice but I figured I should some get some thoughts from others who have done this already.

And does anyone have a set of late lowered spindles for sale?

The two different ballpoints are not compatible. The early one is tightened by clamping the shaft with a nut and bolt. The split allows it to be tightened. The later uses the wedge of the pin (like a cotter pin) to hold the shaft secure. It has no split because the pin wedges the shaft tightly in the strut.

Do you have 911 or 914 struts?

I know I have a single 3" 911 strut but I'd have to check in the shop on Monday to see what exactly it is and what side.

I have a pair of 914 struts that I would sell for the cost of shipping + $20 (pays for packing and driving).

Also have a pair of 3 1/2" 911 boge struts that can take billstein inserts that I would sell.

Lowered spindles is a misnomer, they are actually raised spindles, thus lowering your car.
Tangerine can make you up a set, good luck finding used.
DIY can be done but it's a fair bit of work.

If you have two different ball joints that means you have two different struts, I'd fix that.
The later struts do have a better balljoint, early struts can oval out where the ball joint connects to the strut.

Decambered ball joints IIRC is just so you can run more camber, nothing to do with lowering, but it does help lowered cars to correct camber.

Thanks for the clarification on raised vs lowering, fixed the title.

Here is the pass side:


Driver's side:


I cant remember which side, but one side has the wedge bolt, the other side has the round bolt.

So do I have "early" or "late" struts?
And sounds like I need to have late struts for the de-cambered balljoints?

Sounds like you have one of each. Ditch the early one, get a late one, then have them done. The late ones have the wedge pin.

--DD

From your description, it would seem you have different struts (1 early, 1 late).
But the pictures both look like late (wedge pin) struts. I don't see the split to clamp the ball joint in either of your pictures.

If that is the case you need to pull out the "round bolt" and replace it with a wedge pin.

If you actually have matching struts, you can send them to Racer Chris and get the spindles raised. If you have a mismatch, get another late wedge pin style and then get the spindles raised.


Jim

A wedge bolt strut needs a wedge bolt ball joint and wedge bolt to work correctly.
Mix and match will not work.

Did anyone mention you have two different struts

But I don't think I do.
As far as I can tell from those pics, Neither of them have the "split" that would indicate an "early" strut.
Do you see anything that indicates that those struts are different?
Still learning about difference here...

I think the PO replaced a late balljoint with an early balljoint

That appears most likely. The trouble is that the pin isn't held firmly with a thru bolt in a wedge style strut, and over time will egg out the hole.