I attempted to install this new Weltmeister sump oil trap today, but concluded it cannot be installed with the existing stock oil screen. Is this correct? Otherwise I believe installation of this oil trap replaces both the screen and taco plate -- from the top down: O ring, pickup extension, taco plate size gasket, oil trap, copper squash washer, bolt, all shown in the pic, correct?

Correct. The instructions should mention omitting the oil screen.

I have heard that some people modify the screen to fit the new pickup.

And you seem to have the order of the bits correct; and it looks like the kit is complete.

--DD

On those welt kits I have also opened the oil slots to improve pick up volume
Especially on cars with bigger oil pumps and front coolers

Be very carefull tightening the bolt.....you dont want type4 syndrome.

and the tuna can makes over tightening even easier.
Get a proper inch pound torque wrench, without it use your shortest 1/4" ratchet and tighten with one finger only.

Thanks for all of your comments. I will open up the slots for higher volume and modify the screen to fit some how. Re torque, any ft/lbs suggestions?

Nine. As in, less than 10 lb-ft. That's why MH suggested an inch-pound wrench.

--DD

Thanks.

So that would be 108 inch pounds. An inch pound torque wrench for doing the sump plate is a wise investment for every T4 owner who does their own oil changes.

Most ft/lb torque wrenches can't even read under 10lbs, and those that do are not very accurate if they go over 20lbs.

Over clean the area and mount it straight. +3 on the don't over torque it.

Can anyone recommend a good inch-pound torque wrench with decent accuracy and range? Is 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch drive preferred?

I have an old Craftsman beam-type foot-pound wrench and a Craftsman click-type foot-pound wrench, both 3/8 inch drive. Accuracy? I have often wondered...

Craftsman made one, beam type inch pounds, bought it 40 years ago. These are for motorcycle engines and smaller.

FYI Harbor Freight makes an electronic torque meter you can use on any ratchet, also can calibrate you current wrenches.

Mike

Drill for safety wire......it doesn't cost much!! And it can save embarrassment and $$$.

I know, I know, I'm resurrecting an old post.

Yes, yes, drill for safety wire. My thoughts are that nobody should be on the track without safety wiring at a minimum all of your oil carrying nuts/bolts, including your oil filter. You can put a hose clamp on your oil filter and use the screw portion to hold the safety wire to a convenient place on the motor.

A dozen years racing motorcycles taught me to safety wire anything. Drill the holes 1/16" (very gently and very slowly so as to not break the bolt - a safety wire jig is cheap and good insurance to ensure you don't goof up), and use a good set of safety wire plyers. Grainger has a very nice set for about $100, though the $15 set on Amazon will work just as well. I forgot to mention, if you have a jig, it will work well in a drill press, don't force it.

If you are completely lazy, you can buy pre-drilled bolts to your spec at Fastenal, though it will likely be a special order, taking about a week to get there...

While this part doesn't exist anymore there are a few still floating around to be found on the secondary market.
Im finding the racers are interested in them due to their (steel) construction and the ease with which they can be welded/plumbed for a scavenge line.
For everyone else I offer an updated Aluminum version that has added benefits detailed in the member vendors section / on my store.