When I depress the clutch I here a clicking in the tunnel..The cable is maxed out with spacer nuts at the transmission end..What is the easiest way to do it as not to cut into the tunnel or weld..Is there a way?
Thanks,914

The spacers.. Firewall is fine.. Using a Terry Cable..are some Terry Cables made longer?
Thanks,914Click to view attachment

Search on the term "clutch tube repair", you should get multiple threads here.

The Terry cable appears to have a bad rep ,have you adjusted the clevis right up at the pedal,mine required cutting back by 12mm with all area's rebuilt,is your clutch worn,has the nylon ball in the throwout arm collapsed etc ,all that sort of stuff.

Jeff,
Ive had and halved mixed ideas..
Thanks,914

The clutch is nearly new..
Thanks..

Like I said, search on "clutch tube repair". Include the quotes and you will get multiple threads where this has been discussed forever.

My 6 had a problem with this. The click of death. The PO put a U clamp to fix it toward the firewall. Take out the center tray between the seats and remove the cover and have someone push the clutch and take a look. You will see if it has broken lose back there. There are pictures on line showing where the Clutch tube is welded to the center tunnel where the shifter and wires, and gas lines go. Some guys get creative with clamps but there is only one great way to fix it right. You have to go in deep and weld. After removing the gas lines

Bob

If only the front is loose, you can drill into the side of the tunnel (forward of the shifter) and plug weld the bracket onto the tunnel again. McMark did that to my car.

--DD

My 6 also had a u clamp there as well. U Clamp with 2 nuts tightening it on the left face of tunnel

Bob

Jeff
Could you please walk me though search procedure basics as I am truly
Thanks

I found them...finally figured search was google but I thought you meant this site.
It turned out to be on this site but found it through a google search.
Like the idea of accessing through the bottom for track car that may be best .....Headed to the local 914 wizard ...
Oh mine was diagnosed as bad pressure plate but getting ready to install new one but old looks just fine ...KA---CHING !

This repair can be avoided with the correct adjustment of the cable clevis, pedal stop and often overlooked thoughout bearing lever pivot ball, which needs to be repositioned to keep the mechanism within mechanical limits, when flywheel resurfacing is done.
Mike

Thanks everyone for the reply's.. I think now I have to remove the center console shifter to see what is really going on as for welding that one delicate area I prefer to use a clamp any more ideas..
Thanks,914

Use the search function on this site...Google may get you there but its easier here.

A broken clutch tube cannot be adjusted around, it needs to be repaired.

Jeff,
Can you arrow the spots at the tube is welded to.. I think i see them But your the Expert..
Thanks,914

The very front, that big oval piece and the rear. I added another support at the back end of the support for the throttle cable. I also added some extra material to that large oval piece. Mine was broken at the two forward supports.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=298186&hl=

Here's my solution. If its what you need, PM me with your address and I'll send you one of my leftover prototypes to start you off.

This picture is the tunnel puled out of the car. It is like you are looking up from the bottom. I marked the spots where it is welded and my car was also welded at the firewall. If you look at postings you will see that the other tubes are for heater controls and Throttle. So I think when the clutch is pushed the cable makes the tube bend or flex. This makes it necessary for more nuts or washers on it as spacers. As I said my 6 was fixed with a U clamp and nuts. One by the driver’s right foot going towards the passengers side and one on the center floor wrapped over the tube as a clamp. U was going towards the ground with nuts on the threads to hold it. I guess that is a low cost temporary fix for guys back in the 80s. The repairs where removed and done right. The welding of the tube must have a screwdriver in the front of tube as a heat sink so you do not burn through the tube. Same in the back of the firewall. Just pull after the welding.

I pulled the junk and I fixed it right and put a new floor section.

Bob

Click to view attachment

Yep said that.

The cup is nylon, the ball is steel, there is 1 washer under the ball in stock config, adding additional washer under the pivot ball offsets the mechanism.
If not the mechanism will pull against a solid structure causing the weakest point to give way ie the sheetmetal.

Thanks for all the reply's in the shop now..
I will let you know the outcome..
Thanks 914

Alan,

What where the chances that a great bud lived just a few blocks from me with 2 914s in the same colors as 2 of mine. We both have a 1970 -6 in yellow and a 4. Sorry that my lift would not fit in your garage.

Bob B