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bbrock
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 15 2019, 09:15 PM) *

You might be surprised at how small amounts of fixed volume affect compression ratio. Worth measuring IMHO.

Generally, a dish in a piston is either there to provide a specific place for combustion to start, or to make room for valves and/or spark plugs, or just to lower the compression.

I have the feeling that in the case of the 914 it's all three.

Note that early 1.7 pistons have a dome instead, and the original European-spec 2.0 pistons had a dish with beveled sides instead of the curved sides like the US-spec pistons had.

--DD


Interesting. These are the original European-spec 2.0 pistons with the beveled sides. The dish is subtle enough that I didn't notice it until I started messing with deck height and cc'ing the heads. When I measured the volume of the dish, it took 6 drops of fluid to fill it. It wasn't enough to be able to measure from a 60cc syringe. I could use a 3cc syringe to get a more accurate read.
bbrock
I think I found it. I measured all the pistons from wrist pin bores to piston tops. Measuring with the pistons still on the rods was a bit fiddly but I got consistent results to the thousands. Looks like the wrist pin bore on #3 is indeed lower. Note that I calculated "Max Diff" to indicate change in deck height.

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Now the question is what, if anything to do about it. confused24.gif Is it worth trying to fix? If not, should I move that rod assembly to another location? From what I've read, higher compression increases heat generated during compression but reduces exhaust gas temperature. I'm paranoid because I had a bus engine grenade at 60 mph when the #3 exhaust valve had a melt down. Don't want to repeat that. My gut says higher compression on #3 might be a good thing but what do I know? confused24.gif
bbrock
Well, right or wrong, I decided to just shuffle some barrels around to take advantage of the small differences I found there and move on. I estimated the crushed gasket thickness at 90% of the uncrushed value. This was based in a post from Jake Raby I found on The Samba where he said gaskets vary but most are 0.03 new, and 0.028 crushed (= 90% of uncrushed). I had two sets of gaskets but only one usable. They measure 0.027" thick so I used 0.025" as the crushed estimate for DH calculation. And no, there is not chance they were crushed because they were still in a sealed plastic bag. Here are the final numbers on deck height and compression:

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According to this CR>HP calculator, that should be good for one free pony from the slightly higher than stock CR. The irony after all this stewing over deck heights is that I wound up doing exactly what I would have if I'd never heard of deck heights before - install the 0.01 base rings and head gaskets that come with the gasket sets. At least now I'm aware of the irregularities in my engine so I have something new to worry about. screwy.gif

With that settled, I took all the P&Cs off one at a time and gave them a good scrubbing with soap and water followed by a flash dry with compressed air and a fresh coat of clean oil. The base sealing surface of each cylinder and mated register was wiped clean with lacquer thinner and Yamabond was applied to the cylinder base and base rings before making a final adjustment or ring gap locations and sliding the jugs on. Each jug was snugged into the register using a socket as a spacer on one stud while I worked on the rest.

After all the jugs were on, I installed my throw away set of gaskets into the 3-4 side head but before putting it on, I covered the piston top of #3 with modeling clay. I just did this one since it has the lowest deck. I figured if this one is good, they should all be good.

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I then torqued the heads down on both sides (I didn't bother with gaskets on 1-2 at this point) and quit for the night to let the base sealant set while under torque. This morning I mocked up #3 with push rods and rockers and set them to 0 lash before rotating the crank a few revolutions.

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I actually had to go through this a few times because I underestimated how much clay was needed to get a good impression of the valves. The valves aren't coming anywhere close to the pistons (like around .15-.20 clearance), which surprised me and made me think something was wrong. But I checked and rechecked everything and made sure the tappets were pushing the valves in fully. Still waiting for confirmation from Elgin on my cam specs, but I'm pretty sure it is stock lift with wider duration so I guess I should expect the valves to get too crazy. Hard to get an accurate thickness measurement in clay, but the minimum clearance looks to be around 0.05" with the slightly thicker head gaskets than will be in the final fit. That all seems good from a safe margin standpoint.

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I discovered I may not have a full set of proper head washers so @Mblizzard came to my rescue and is going to send me a set. I won't be able to do final bolt-up until those arrive.

I know this isn't the perfect blueprinted build, but I'm glad it is behind me. I normally like working on the guts of engines but I don't have a large, clean bench needed to do it so this has been more stress than fun. Thanks to those of you who helped coach me through this. Happy to get back to cleaning up rusty crap and making it pretty again! rolleyes.gif
euro911
Cylinder#3 overheating issues were common with T-1/T-2 motors due to the oil cooler location ... not an issue on T-4 motors.
bbrock
QUOTE(euro911 @ Apr 17 2019, 02:42 PM) *

Cylinder#3 overheating issues were common with T-1/T-2 motors due to the oil cooler location ... not an issue on T-4 motors.


Interesting. I thought it was a problem on all of them. I had a 1.7L engine I rebuilt to 2.0 with hydraulic cam and lifters that ran like a top until the #3 exhaust valve let loose on the Interstate and grenaded the engine 200 miles from home. Might have been coincidence that it was #3 I guess. All these years I blamed an inherent weakness in the engine. Turns out it was just my shitty rebuild and not replacing the valves. lol-2.gif Although it sucked losing that engine, the incident led to one of the most fun and memorable days of my life.
MarkV
My final CR is 8.7 / 1 and I lapped the jugs with no head gaskets. I was worried about heat so I installed a head temp gauge. The sensor for the gauge is on #3 because that's the hot one. Mine doesn't run hot unless I really try to lug it..... It seems to like 275 degrees maybe 300 in the heat of summer. blowtorch.gif
bbrock
Frustrated as Hell

I've spent the last week trying unsuccessfully to accomplish what should have been the simple task of painting my valve covers. I'll warn in advance this is likely to be as much a bitch fest as it is a project update. I can't figure out WTF is going on.

I spent last weekend restoring all the small tin and brackets on the engine which entailed cleaning them, media blasting to bare metal, and painting with VHT black satin engine paint. I'll post some pics on that when I'm less pissed off but other than being tedious work, went without a hitch. My only complaint is that some of the pieces show some rust pitting from living in the Midwest but these are all pieces mostly or fully hidden from view anyway so that's minor.

The last items to paint were the valve covers. Those got extra attention since they are kind of a focal point of a well-dressed engine. I had 3 sets of covers to pick from. All have pits from salt damage but one set had much less than the others so that's the one I picked. Of course, that was also the only set that was dented and banged up so after de-greasing, then blasting to bare metal, I spent some time with hammer and dolly to make them presentable. Then they were cleaned and dried again, wiped with dewaxer, blown dry and tacked off before applying three coats of VHT Engine Enamel primer. The primer is optional but is supposed to promote adhesion. More importantly, it was the only thing I could think to fill some of the rust pits and remaining small dings since the TDSs for all the body fillers I have don't list max temp ratings, and I haven't seen a high temp high build primer. I've used this primer before and had just applied it to other pieces without any trouble.

The directions on the primer are to allow 10 minutes flash time between coats and 30 minutes before wet sanding or applying top coat. I was applying the coats a little heavier than normal to build up some thickness so doubled the between coats flash time and waited a couple hours before wet sanding. Everything looked great up to this point. The paint dried as expected and after wet sanding with 400 grit, about 80% of the pits and other imperfections were concealed.

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After cleaning and dewaxing, I applied a light coat of primer just enough to cover bare metal exposed by the sanding followed by two light, and one medium-wet coat of the top coat (again, VHT engine paint) according to can directions. The covers looked fantastic and I left them to dry overnight.

The next morning I picked up one of the covers to inspect and was surprised that my fingers stuck to a sticky goo. I've lost count of the number of cans of this paint I've sprayed, and not once has it not dried enough to be handled within an hour. Looking at the covers, I could see splotches that were shiny and wet while the other areas had cured to a satin finish. Many of the wet areas had a wrinkled finish so even if they eventually dried, they would look like shit. I also noticed the satin finish was more flat than the previous several cans I had sprayed which was kind of annoying, but I didn't think much else of it. Another weird thing is that I had used this same can of paint to put a final coat on a few of the other pieces and they all dried just fine, but with that duller finish.

My thinking was that either I hadn't allowed enough time for that final coat of primer to flash before spraying top coat, or the primer had soaked up water during wet sanding and I hadn't allowed enough time to dry. So, I media blasted the covers back down to bare metal and started over.

This time I let the covers dry overnight after wet sanding and let the final light coat of primer dry for several hours before top coating. Again, they looked fantastic and I hung them to dry before leaving home for a conference for three days. I went out to check on them this morning and I'll be damned if the same f'ing thing didn't happen again. Here's what it looked like:

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It wasn't as bad as the first time and I think the three days of drying did allow more of the paint to cure. I decided to switch tactics and put the covers in the oven to drive out any solvent or moisture trapped in the paint. I baked them at 200F for about 45 minutes and the paint blistered in several areas even though the paint is rated for 550F. I'm pretty sure the blistering was solvent (or moisture) pop. After baking, all of the paint was dry, hard, and cured, but rough where it blistered. The next step was to wet sand again to sand out the blistered areas and level out the surface.

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Then they went back in the oven for an hour to make sure they were dry, dry, dry. Then they were wiped with dewaxer and blown dry with compressed air before applying two light and one medium wet top coat (no additional coat of primer this time). After 3 hours of drying, I checking on them and found large areas wet, gooey, and wrinkled again. headbang.gif headbang.gif headbang.gif WTF.gif

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The area on top where primer is showing is where I wiped lightly across with a rag. That paint simply isn't setting up. They are now baking again to harden the paint and then I'll blast them back to bare metal again, but then what? confused24.gif I'm at the point where I think I got a shitty can of paint which is now used up. This is too much work to keep going in circles though. I may have to see what it would cost to have just these covers powder coated. For now, I need a drink. beer3.gif
burton73
Brent,

Screw that junk. I have used VHT paint for engines for motorcycles and it work great. Just go right from bead blasting and then bake in your oven after its dry.

It has been a long time but it worked great before. $15 a can or so.


Bob B


beer3.gif
bbrock
QUOTE(burton73 @ Apr 26 2019, 07:36 PM) *

Brent,

Screw that junk. I have used VHT paint for engines for motorcycles and it work great. Just go right from bead blasting and then bake in your oven after its dry.

It has been a long time but it worked great before. $15 a can or so.


Bob B


beer3.gif


Hi Bob. This IS VHT engine paint which is why it has me so confused. I've used it for years without any problems at all. I've also baked it in the oven after dry as you suggest, but for some reason, it isn't drying completely in this case.

The only reason I'm not applying the VHT top coat direct to metal is because I need to fill as much of the pitting as I can. If I don't, it isn't going to meet my standards. That said, I've used the VHT engine primer many times before and it has also worked great. That's why I'm starting to wonder if I got a bad can of the engine paint which might also explain why the sheen is flatter than the half dozen other cans I've sprayed.

BTW, I'm only paying $8 a can for it. Is there a California paint tax? confused24.gif


bbrock
It's hard to get a good pic and the contrast is actually even greater than you can see here, but here's a picture showing pieces sprayed from two different cans of VHT Satin Black Engine Enamel.

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Both cans were purchased on the same day at my local Autozone. While the valve cover is more what I would consider "satin", all cans of VHT "Satin Black" I've sprayed match the piece on the right which I would call a "semi-gloss." I've learned that VHT uses these descriptions loosely because their "Gloss Black" Roll Bar and Chassis Paint is a dead match for the piece on the right which is really what I want.
andrewb
QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 17 2019, 10:07 PM) *
the incident led to one of the most fun and memorable days of my life.

..................because........come on,don't keep us hanging !!
bbrock
The problem with the valve covers is solved! Sure enough, it was a bad can of paint. After baking the pieces earlier today, I decided to try just dry sanding them with 320 grit to sand off all bad paint. Then I dewaxed and sprayed with a fresh can of the same stuff. This time it flashed off evenly within minutes of application like it normally does and dried to the same semi-gloss as previous cans. It didn't register with me until I pulled my respirator off as I left the garage, but the bad paint lacked the strong solvent smell it should have had. Something was definitely off with it. I put the last coat on the covers less than two hours ago and they are already dry enough to handle. I'll give them a bake tomorrow but I'm glad that's over. cheer.gif
bbrock
QUOTE(andrewb @ Apr 26 2019, 10:50 PM) *

QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 17 2019, 10:07 PM) *
the incident led to one of the most fun and memorable days of my life.

..................because........come on,don't keep us hanging !!


Oh that's kind of a long story and I'm not sure how entertaining for anyone who wasn't there, but here is an excerpt from a rough draft of a chapter in a book I'm working on about our wolf that contains the story of when the bus engine went boom.

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Superhawk996
lol-2.gif

No wonder your posts are so entertaining to read!

Also I can't believe that when you were having problems with the valve cover paint that you just didn't plate them!

shades.gif

Keep up the work and finish that book that ought to be a fun read!
tygaboy
Hurry up and finish the car so you can get back to the book! I need a copy...
bbrock
Thanks guys. I'm not happy with this yet and it will get some heavy editing, but here's the current draft of the opening paragraph.

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Now back on topic. Job.... done!

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It's only fitting that this PITA job culminates with that sickening feeling of dragging that clamping bail across the fresh paint of a painstakingly restored valve cover. icon8.gif barf.gif
BPic
I want more! Don’t dangle the intro and one chapter. This is awesome stuff. I’ve always wanted a wolf or wolf hybrid. But I must ask, have had more kids since the intro?
KELTY360
QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 27 2019, 03:43 PM) *

Thanks guys. I'm not happy with this yet and it will get some heavy editing, but here's the current draft of the opening paragraph.

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Now back on topic. Job.... done!

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It's only fitting that this PITA job culminates with that sickening feeling of dragging that clamping bail across the fresh paint of a painstakingly restored valve cover. icon8.gif barf.gif


First paragraph sure beats: "It was a dark and stormy night".

Hell, it even beats: "Call me Ishmael".

Write on!
Dion
Can’t wait for this book to be published.
A Renaissance man/ Hippie author and channeling Jack Hanna
It just can not get any better!
beer3.gif
andrewb
QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 27 2019, 08:05 AM) *

Oh that's kind of a long story and I'm not sure how entertaining for anyone who wasn't there, but here is an excerpt from a rough draft of a chapter in a book I'm working on about our wolf that contains the story of when the bus engine went boom.


Brilliant, thank you. I'm glad I asked. Shoulda known it would involve wildlife.

Strangely enough I've been in the same situation - '71 bus, bunch of guys, side of the road, pool of oil - but with a ferry to catch. Guess I'd better write a book - but with less wolf.

Put me down for a copy too please.
tygaboy
"No Wolf"

Would that not be the perfect personalized licence plate for the 914? Or do you have future pet ownership plans you've yet to share? happy11.gif
bbrock
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Apr 28 2019, 07:22 AM) *

"No Wolf"

Would that not be the perfect personalized licence plate for the 914? Or do you have future pet ownership plans you've yet to share? happy11.gif


yikes.gif biggrin.gif That particular plate is already taken, or at least was up to a few years ago. Although the controversy has died down quite a bit since they were delisted, passions about wolves still run high around here. Any plate with the word "wolf" on it is an invitation to have your car keyed. Still, you see them quite a bit. I used to see a pickup truck with the "No Wolf" plate fairly regularly on I-90 outside of Bozeman. We also had a neighbor with "WOLF LVR" on his plates. He's now sitting in prison for stockpiling illegal weapons and threatening to blow up the sherrif's office. As for future plans... that was a once in a lifetime deal and I'm way too old to try that again.

I appreciate everyone's interest in the book. The first draft was completed some time ago. Following the advice of other authors, I set it aside and forgot about it before going back to edit and revise which is where I am now. Then to find a publisher which I have no experience with.

Finally, to answer @BPic , no kids before or after "the incident." I'll let you draw your own conclusions... rolleyes.gif
tygaboy
Brent - I have two friends who've recently published books. I have no idea of the details but would be happy to connect you with them. PM me if you'd be interested.

And on the "No Wolf", I wasn't thinking of the political implications as we aren't dealing with those sorta critters where I am.
sixnotfour
Adolph / Adoff – Noble wolf (German)
Lucky9146
QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 27 2019, 03:43 PM) *

Thanks guys. I'm not happy with this yet and it will get some heavy editing, but here's the current draft of the opening paragraph.

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Now back on topic. Job.... done!

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It's only fitting that this PITA job culminates with that sickening feeling of dragging that clamping bail across the fresh paint of a painstakingly restored valve cover. icon8.gif barf.gif


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Glad you stuck with it, bummer on the bad can of paint! Looking great, keep up the good work. beerchug.gif
driving.gif white914.jpg
bbrock
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Apr 28 2019, 10:05 AM) *

Adolph / Adoff – Noble wolf (German)


av-943.gif Nobody would dare key a car with "Adolph" on the plates. laugh.gif
mepstein
QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 28 2019, 03:20 PM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Apr 28 2019, 10:05 AM) *

Adolph / Adoff – Noble wolf (German)


av-943.gif Nobody would dare key a car with "Adolph" on the plates. laugh.gif

That was my grandfathers name until WW2. He never went by that name again.
bbrock
QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 28 2019, 02:03 PM) *

QUOTE(bbrock @ Apr 28 2019, 03:20 PM) *

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Apr 28 2019, 10:05 AM) *

Adolph / Adoff – Noble wolf (German)


av-943.gif Nobody would dare key a car with "Adolph" on the plates. laugh.gif

That was my grandfathers name until WW2. He never went by that name again.


Just last night we had a dinner party and I was lamenting how the popularity of the name Adolph was suddenly ruined by one bad apple. A few months ago, my suggestion that my niece name her baby Adolph did not fly at all. She also rejected Judas. I joke, because it is sad that all the good people that were named Adolph are now forever linked to that monster through no fault of their own.
sixnotfour
Hines, was Heinz
914_7T3
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Apr 27 2019, 02:53 AM) *


Also I can't believe that when you were having problems with the valve cover paint that you just didn't plate them!

shades.gif


agree.gif

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sixnotfour
ya but ,,look a dent......
914_7T3
QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Apr 28 2019, 10:34 PM) *

ya but ,,look a dent......


sad.gif
bbrock
Oz Never Did Give Nothin' to the Tin Man

I haven't had much to report but not because I haven't been busy. There is no picture for my biggest accomplishment but my brake calipers and hardware are now in Wisconsin for plating. I got fed up with the lack of response and high price quote from the place in Salt Lake City I was originally hoping to send part. Shout out to @mb911 for the tip on his plater. Great customer service so far.

The rest of my time has been spent stripping and repainting engine tin. I used paint stripper on the upper tins to make media blasting after easier. I was hoping to get lucky and reveal some secrets in the tin and was rewarded.

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That VHT Satin Black engine paint is a PITA to work with. It's nearly impossible to maintain a wet line on these complicated shapes so you wind up with dry overspray in areas. It also has a tendency to crinkle if you apply a coat too thick. I never had these issues with any of their other colors or paints. Enough complaining, I'll just skip to the end result.

I only had one metal spring tab to hold down the flapper assembly. Thanks to a tip from Bruce Stone, I made another from a piece of metal shipping banding. Hint: metal banding has gotten harder to find. I found it in the fencing section of my local ranch supply. Can you tell which is the repro?

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I have a NOS thermostat I bought when they were still about $10 and had Awesome Powdercoat make me a cable retaining nut and new cable for dirt cheap.

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One more detail before getting to the good stuff. The tin for the fan shroud originally had some gasket material to seal the joints. I used some 1/2" x 1/4" window closed cell foam weatherstrip I picked up at Lowe's (gray stuff oozing out here).

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bbrock
Now the good stuff.

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Wait a minute... That doesn't look quite right... Oh yeah, here we go.

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Oh yeah! That's better. dancinnanner.gifdancinnanner.gifdancinnanner.gif

Now before you rush to judge this as silly, let's consider that I.O. stamp. According to Jeff Bowlsby's site, that stands for "In Order." I'm not sure what that means but I think "in order" seems like a good thing, and without that stamp, how do you know if it is "in order""? confused24.gif bye1.gif
Superhawk996
Looking awesome. beerchug.gif
Dion
“”Now before you rush to judge this as silly, let's consider that I.O. stamp. According to Jeff Bowlsby's site, that stands for "In Order." I'm not sure what that means but I think "in order" seems like a good thing, and without that stamp, how do you know if it is "in order""? confused24.gif bye1.gif “”


lol-2.gif beerchug.gif smilie_pokal.gif
tygaboy
I'm going to assume you used a German potato to make the the stamps for the letters and numbers. Or is it you have it upside down and it's actually "OI", an abbreviation for "Ore-Ida"? shades.gif

In any case, and in all seriousness, you're going to have one of the most accurately detailed restos out there. Your attention to these details, as others have already pointed out, is really wonderful to see. Great job, sir!
euro911
QUOTE(tygaboy @ Apr 28 2019, 06:22 AM) *
"No Wolf"

Would that not be the perfect personalized licence plate for the 914? Or do you have future pet ownership plans you've yet to share? happy11.gif
I see the cause of your blown motor. Instead of a PORSCHE crest, you should have put a Wolfsburg crest on the bus poke.gif
mb911
Glad the plating thing is working out. Sent Marks first batch back to him this weekend. Sounds like he may have a bit more to do..

Your doing a great job preserving that car.. Serious thought has been done on this project. I think when I retire I may tackle something like this. Until then I will work on my Frankenstein..
preach
Fantastic Brent. Inspirational.
bbrock
Alright you funny guys with your Wolfsburg crests and German potatoes, I'll try to catch up a little. Lots of balls in the air.

Last week, my seemingly endless quest for cv joints ended when a NOS half shaft arrived in the mail. I owe @914_7T3 a huge thank you! Jeffrey was amazing. When he found out his mechanic had one he was interested in selling, he called me, negotiated a screaming deal, and had it in the mail within an hour. Just incredible.

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A couple interesting things on the label. This half shaft was built when West Germany was still a thing and notice the model info. Obviously the consolidation of the 914/6 and 914/4 part numbers happened a long time ago. What do you want to bet this thing has 25 splines.

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Next up was sorting a distributor for my engine. I have a NOS 050 distributor that I was talked into buying when I bought my carb kit back when Madonna started annoying everyone. I want vacuum advance though so decided to see if I could refurbish one of my crusty old distributors. Here's the pile I had to work with. The one in the lower center is the 2.0L dizzy so that's the lucky girl.

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The bushings seemed nice and tight so disassembly and a good cleaning was in order. One of those mechanical advance springs was responsible for me spending an unplanned day in a parking lot in McKinney, TX trying to figure out why my car wouldn't run. Finally figured out the spring had just popped off so the engine couldn't hold its timing.

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I made a blanking plate for the injector triggers but cleaned those up to put in storage for whenever I decide to put the EFI back on. I also had to swap out the vacuum advance plate because the braided ground strap was missing. The plate on the 2L dizzy was a different design but functions exactly the same. It looks like the redesign was just to save cost of materials and assembly. All the screws, clamping springs, and dash pot were put through the zinc-O-matic. Reassembly with some fresh lube and my dizzy is good as new with one exception.

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The exception is that after plating, the vacuum retard port was leaking. Even though I plugged the vacuum ports and only used a fairly weak acid dip to strip the old plating off, I suspect it dissolved some solder or sealant around the retard port causing the leak. Not a big deal but I'm going to try to reseal it. I know most people don't like to hook up the vacuum retard but I'm not a big fan of pollution so figured I'd use it if it works.

I still need to replace the O-ring and have a Pertronix Ignitor III coming this week to replace the points and condenser, but I couldn't resist sticking it in the engine because it looks nicer than the paper towel that was stuffed in that hole.

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I have to show off the new dust cover too. The Ignitor III has a built-in adjustable rev limiter so I'll swap that rev limiting rotor out for a plain Jane unit. I plan to upgrade the coil to the high discharge unit that matches the Ignitor.

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bbrock
The last thing I'll report on is that I started refurbing my carbs. Believe it or not, these are NOS but decades of storage in the humid Midwest left them nasty and corroded.

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I soaked the first stripped carb body in diluted Pine-Sol for a day which cleaned it up pretty well but left the dark tarnish. I saw some good Youtube vids on soda blasting carb bodies so I'm going to pick up some soda media tomorrow and give it a go. Even though the accelerator diaphragms look perfectly new, I'm order new ones just to be sure. I'm also ordering all new rubber seals. I spent the evening cleaning and plating all the corroded adjustment screws and other hardware.

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That will do it for now. I should be getting my plated hardware soon. That will be exciting.
raynekat
As always Brent.....totally entertaining all that you do. Well done.
Tdskip
Equal mix of inspiring and humbling to follow your work.

Thanks for all of the updates.
bbrock
Thanks guys. Encouragement helps with the motivation.

I want to slip a quick one in today as I have a strong feeling things are about to get a little nuts on the project for a bit. Before that happens, wanted to show off what arrived yesterday. I need to set the rev limit to 5800 rpm (up a little from the 5500 default setting). Very close to having a completely functional and modernized dizzy.

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mepstein
"I have a strong feeling things are about to get a little nuts on the project for a bit"

Flares and a six? biggrin.gif

Guys are doing a full maintenance on the vapor blast machine so it should be in great shape to do your carbs. I did some motorcycle parts last month and it had some weird staining to the metal. Probably contaminated media. The guys get lazy and don't clean the parts before blasting. headbang.gif
Dave_Darling
You are going to remove that cap from the vacuum retard fitting on the dashpot, right? Plugging it like that can interfere with the movement of the advance/retard diaphragm...

In stock form, when they didn't hook the retard up they ran a hose down under the manifold and left it open. Probably just so people didn't see an open fitting and freak out.

--DD
bbrock
QUOTE(mepstein @ May 23 2019, 11:50 AM) *

"I have a strong feeling things are about to get a little nuts on the project for a bit"

Flares and a six? biggrin.gif


One word: "Chalon!" happy11.gif

QUOTE
Guys are doing a full maintenance on the vapor blast machine so it should be in great shape to do your carbs. I did some motorcycle parts last month and it had some weird staining to the metal. Probably contaminated media. The guys get lazy and don't clean the parts before blasting. headbang.gif


Cool beans! I hope to get the other carb stripped and cleaned over the weekend.

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 23 2019, 03:47 PM) *

You are going to remove that cap from the vacuum retard fitting on the dashpot, right? Plugging it like that can interfere with the movement of the advance/retard diaphragm...

In stock form, when they didn't hook the retard up they ran a hose down under the manifold and left it open. Probably just so people didn't see an open fitting and freak out.

--DD


Yes, the plug will come off. It was just there to keep plating fluid from getting inside the dashpot. Interesting about the factory retard connection. Well, if that's what the factory did, I guess I'll just hook up a dangle hose the same way. I guess I can return the silver solder I bought today to reseal the retard port. I can always count on you to save me from doing stupid things. biggrin.gif
bbrock
Got some goodies from the Deutschland today. Pretty stupid to pay $25 for a key blank when perfectly good repros available. Even more stupid when one is a valet key for a guy who has only been to a place with valet parking once, and that was just last summer. Porsche sure knows how to exploit OCD. The mats, OTOH, were a bargain IMO.

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Yeah.... I couldn't resist.

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bbrock
Had to install some of the new goodies before calling it quits tonight. I'm tired of these droplinks sitting around. I'm sure glad I paid attention to threads on installing these. It isn't hard, but you have to be prepared for the brutality of forcing the little bastards into place.

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After smearing a little moly grease on the balls per factory manual instructions, that screw clamp in the pic above was just the ticket for pressing the droplinks onto the sway bars. It would have worked for the strut side too but I was too lazy to take the wheels off to gain clearance. A few good smacks with a plastic mallet convinced them to jump on. Sway-me-not.

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Hey, is that a brand new gin-U-wine clutch cable I spy there? rolleyes.gif
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