Looking great Brent. I read on the label of my metal prep and it stated not to let it dry. I did the same as you in some spots, spray on and come back to it later.

I've used two brands of this stuff now and each had slight different instructions despite being basically the same chemical. JASCO said if it dried before you neutralized it, to respray with the acid to reactivate before neutralizing. Both said to let it sit overnight to convert rust but this Klean-Strip brand says nothing about reactivating. I do anyway. I'm going to have to retreat the trunk. Not sure what happened but about half of it is mostly flash rust with little to no sign the acid did anything. Don't think I'll be diluting per directions on the next round.

That is a sight to behold! Must feel pretty good to be at this stage. Just a word of warning - don't drag a couch into the garage so you can be comfortable staring at it.

Thanks Marc. As you know, there is no room for a couch which is a good thing, otherwise...

I keep thinking about our conversation about whether I'd be able to get paint on this car before he snow flies. Well, the snow has flown But still hopeful I'll see a week of good weather before winter is here for real. Heading to town in a few to pick up tint for Raptor and some DCC for interior so I'm ready if it happens. Probably just jinxing it by doing that.

Really great to watch the progress and this is a nice pic. Keep at it we are all rooting!


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I copied this over from Ben's build thread so as not to hijack too much and if I'm going to start agonizing over color choice (a milestone), I might as well document it here .



Plan is to do 2-stage on the exterior but single-stage in trunks and cabin to save money. It was pretty obvious the factory didn't clear coat the cabin area of my car so I suppose even more correct would be base coat with no clear in there, but I'm not THAT married to authenticity.

I think you are right about the 4 vs. 6 colors. I'm pretty sure I've read that the six chassis were shipped from Karmann to Porsche and THEN painted by Porsche. Interesting that the VW and Porsche codes cross-reference though. I have a couple issues with using the VW color. First is that I can't get it in the higher quality DBC, paint which everyone says is very forgiving for inexperienced painters like me. The second is that I suspect the Porsche color is going to look nicer. I've noticed in photos of silver metallic 914s that all look beautiful, but some seem to "pop" a little more than others. I wonder if the differences in formulas might cause that. I wouldn't think I'd suffer a authenticity hit by using the Porsche color on a four cylinder chassis, but wonder what people think.

I was reading on Pelican a paint guy (Freddy?) stated that the color of the primer below can affect how much the paint pops.

Sheldon Cooper presents: FUN with FILLER

Spent time this week filling my butt welds with the same reinforced filler Ben used. I like it. Applies easy enough and seems really strong.

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I'm applying it to butt weld seams and then block sanding it flat with 80 grit. Right now the goal is to get all the seams coated and sanded but I'm not getting carried away with getting the surfaces perfect. If I have filler remaining after going over all the seams, then I'll go back around and fill any low spots and block to perfection. Otherwise, I'll wait until after primer is on and fill with more basic (and less expensive) filler. It's nice to see those welds finally disappearing and I'm happy that it isn't taking very much filler to make that happen. Some welds taking less than others of course, and my latest welds definitely require less filler than the early ones.

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On the seams that will be covered with Raptor, I'm mainly concentrating on feathering the edges and sanding them smoother than the under coating texture will be. Doesn't seem to be much point in spending the time to make them perfectly smooth.

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Took this crappy phone pic of a bear across the road at my neighbor's place on my way to the dentist yesterday.

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A smaller bear left these tracks on our porch this morning. I left the primate track is for comparison.

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Oh yeah, it snowed last night. Actually the second of these in a week. It's mostly melted already but emphasizes that I'm on borrowed time for getting paint on the car.

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Brent, I found that I was better of using a DA with 40 grit for that stuff. It cuts it much faster and blends quicker..
It's a great product for sure.

Thanks Ben. I'll break out the DA when I do the fenders. Most of the areas I'v done so far have been in recesses where a DA won't help. I could have used it on the interior floor but found knocking the filler down with 36 grit on a block when it was a little green and then blocking with 80 grit didn't take too long and kicks up less dust. I've been a little stingy with the filler this round just because I want to make sure I get all my butt welds covered. This has left a few shallw low spots that I'll catch with regular filler on top of the primer if I don't have enough of this stuff to do it all. Looks like I'll have plenty but being cautious.

TCP Global Amazon just made my shit list!!!

Last weekend I ordered a 6 liter tintable Raptor kit from TCP Global through Amazon. I just now received an email (a week later) saying that item is unavailable and my order has been cancelled. The email also said the item was available from another seller and provided a link. I clicked on the link and who is this "other" seller? That's right. TCP Global. Same seller, same supplier, but $40 more. I'm in a hurry so went ahead and reordered but will be giving them an earful. Somebody fucked up and listed the wrong price, but instead of being stand-up about it, I get screwed. Not honoring the price is irritating enough, but this means more delay in being ready to spray undercoat when I'm already racing against the weather.

Edit: So it turns out this was mostly Amazon's fault. They waited a week to fulfill my order and by the time they got around to it, the Raptor kits that were in stock when I ordered had sold. In the mean time, TCP Global raised the price on the kits. TCP was pretty cool about it. They shipped my replacement order very quick and refunded me the difference in price.

Show off. I miss the mountains so much. Also, I have really enjoyed your work.

LOL Yeah, I've been accused of gloating. I feel your pain. I grew up in the Midwest but have always felt more at home in the mountains. I haven't even mentioned the harem of elk that have been hanging out above the house, or the big bull moose that has been trimming our shrubs and crapping on our walkway. Whoops. I guess I just did.

Paint! Well... a little anyway

I couldn't put off putting in the front trunk braces any longer. In honor of the frankenmost nature of this car, even the braces had rotted at the bottoms to be patched with what was salvageable from the donor trunk.

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They've been welded up for a long time but welds needed to be ground and filled. Then test fit. I left the nubs from the original spot welds to help realign the parts on reinstall. It really helped and this way I just need to weld the piece back to the nubs.

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The reason I put off installing for so long is because I was trying to figure out the best way to paint under the headlight buckets and the backsides of the braces. I decided to just shoot epoxy primer. I'll try to scuff it as best I can later and shoot color the best I can. Worst case is the color won't adhere well but the area will be well-protected with the primer. I went ahead and shot the floor of the frunk too but masked off areas to be welded.

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Then I applied brush-on seam sealer to the areas behind the braces. I did it the German way - nice and sloppy. It's a pretty good match to the original.

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Yet to be done is convince the brace to lay flat on the wheel well. I tried pulling it in with screws, but because of the curve, it needs to move in and forward at the same time. I have a plan but thought this would be a good place to quit for the night.

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I got them mostly welded in. Still some more work on the passenger side to do and all the welds need to be ground and dressed. But looking pretty good.

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Looking good, Brent!
And I promise, your window will be on its way soon (ish!).
Will color have to wait til nicer weather?

Thanks Chris. Exterior color will have to wait for sure. I'm still hoping I get a few days above 60 here to shoot the whole car in primer, tinted Raptor on the belly, and with a little luck, maybe even interior color. Looks like maybe we'll get some sun next week and temps approaching 60 toward the end, but a lot of work to be done before I'm ready. Just getting the bed liner sprayed would be a huge help to let me turn it into a roller over the winter. I guess worst case is to hang plastic in the garage to shoot primer and maybe even interior color. Don't know if I want to shoot Raptor in there though. Everyone says it smells really bad and I believe it has isocyanates.

Or maybe I just leave the tub naked for the winter and focus on refurbing all the other parts although it would sure be nice to be able to bolt suspension parts onto the car as they are finished rather than trying to find a place to restore them. It's all up in the air

Here's my solution for snugging that brace against the wheel well. It's mostly welded in now but I had to quit to work on bringing in a paycheck to pay for all this crap.

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Just keep pushing and you won't need to add flares! Widebody by "Jack"!

LOL That's exactly why I used a screw jack instead of hydraulic. Much easier to control GENTLE pressure.

Well, I didn't do anything as exciting as retire today, but it was a pretty fun day anyway. Mountains were socked in with fog which killed our land-based wireless Internet so nothing to do but work on the car Started out by reconfiguring the shop to transition from welding/fabricating to paint and body. I cleared the pile of dead tools, hammers, shards of metal, and a quarter inch of metal filings off enough of my bench to clean it up and turn it into a paint mixing station. This really lifted my mood. No more mixing paint on a piece of cardboard while crouching on the floor

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Then I made the 6 mile round trip to the mailbox to pick up a package delivery. Noico sound deadener, new paint gun, sanding and masking supplies. Raptor will be here tomorrow. It's starting to feel like this might happen

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Took the POS Harbor Freight gun out of the gun stand and replaced it with this. The difference in quality was obvious the first time I pulled the trigger. Smooooth. Sure looks purty.

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I also got a bunch of stuff done on the car but I'm too tired to post tonight. Will try to catch up tomorrow. It looks like I might get one last shot of good weather to spray undercoat. I might have to drag the electric oil-filled radiator out of the greenhouse to the tent to boost temps a little, but I'm cautiously optimistic.

Paranoia

When you've seen the horrors that I have, you get a little paranoid about rust. Spent time the last two days doing a couple things to keep the tin worm at bay. First was treating seams.

A word about weld-thru primer.

I treated most of my welds with weld-thru, but as the project wore on, I've decided that weld-thru is a nice idea, but doesn't do much more than relieve us of our money. I was noticing that the weld-thru (regardless of whether it was crappy Eastwood or good Upol copper) burns off around welds about the same distance as good old epoxy. Granted, it does so with less stink and soot, but no matter what, you wind up with bare metal around the weld. So I started digging for actual test data on the efficacy of weld-thru. It's hard to imagine that manufacturers haven't tested this stuff, and you can bet positive test results would show up in marketing ads. I found none - ZERO. This stuff was starting to smell like snake oil, and expensive snake oil at that. The only testing I could find came from MrFireman on youtube. He tested a bunch of different primers by treating then plug welding pinch welds, then he buried the test pieces in the ground for a few weeks. What he found was that most of the primers did a good job of protecting metal where they didn't burn off, but all of them had started to rust in the HAZ where the primer had burned. The treatment that provided the best protection was dribbling epoxy primer into the pinch welds after they had cool. So that's my long-winded soap box introduction to what I did.

I reduced a small amount of PPG epoxy primer with acetone and painted it on all seams with overlapping metal.

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I just flooded the joint and watched with satisfaction as it was sucked into the joint.

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Next up was installing the bungholes. (My wife and I have a running debate whether I have the mentallity of a twelve-year-old or, as she maintains, and eight-year-old. The answer may lie in the normal age when kids stop thinking "bunghole" is a funny word. I think it's hilarious.) Anywho... I wanted to make sure those openings were protected so I cleaned off the old sealer and brushed on full bodied epoxy around each opening, and did the same for the cover plates. I should preface by saying it would have been easier to just spray the cover plates with primer when I spray the whole chassis, but with the time crunch to beat my last chance at good weather, I'm trying to tick off as many tasks as possible to save time later.

I probably wouldn't have bothered removing the frunk plates but I needed to straighten a few areas where a PO of the frunk tub apparently jacked up the car. Those openings made it possible to reach through with a dolly.

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I left all the cover plates to cure for the day. Let's not forget those little discs. You may think they are unnecessary but I'm pretty sure those are the secret sauce Porsche used to get the weight distribution of our cars so perfect. Of course they had to go back in!!!

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Ready for plates.

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After the paint cured, I applied brush-on seam sealer. Hey, look at the pretty spray gun back there! That was coincidence.

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Everybody back in place. After primer, these will get another application of brush-on sealer top and bottom followed by bed liner sprayed at low pressure in appropriate spots to replicate the spray on sealer look. Thanks to Kent ( @914350 ) for taking the time to provide some details on how he did this on @Cairo94507 ' s car.

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I had to take a moment to admire the pedal area complete with "balancing" disc that was completely rotted away and had to be fabricated using only photos for reference.

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You’ve been a busy lad. Epoxy primer & acetone. Was that on all your new welded seams Brent? Where you state the weld thru burned off.
It’s coming along nicely. Hope you get some warm weather for some of October.

I'm applying it on all seams where metal overlaps. That includes all new welded seams as well as any other seams I can get to. I'll be following up with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating and after paint is finished, cavity wax. Like I said, paranoid! I should say that acetone is the correct reducer for my epoxy so I would thin with whatever the right reducer for the primer being used. To elaborate a little more, after I quit using weld-thru, I still painted the lap areas with primer, but using epoxy instead. I either left areas around welds bare or scraped the epoxy off where I needed to weld. If you scrape, you definitely need to use a respirator because you get a lot more soot and smell when the epoxy burns compared to weld-thru. I think the real benefit of weld-thru (especially good stuff like Upol copper) is that it isn't as nasty when it burns, is easier to strike a weld through, and less chance of impurities. I just don't think we are getting as much corrosion protection as we hope.

I'm so close to being ready that I'm trying hard to slow down and not skip anything. Weather is looking promising! Cold and snowy at the moment. Forecast for Friday is in the 60s but returning to crap over the weekend. Next week looks good though with forecast for sunny skies and 60s most of the week and beyond!

Ok Brent, thanks for the info. Carry on mate.

I've been working furiously to get my tub ready for primer so I can take advantage of what will likely be the best last good weather forecast for later this week. I've spent a lot of time metal bumbing to get fenders as straight as I can, and dialing in door gaps.

Metal bumping takes a LOT of time. Most of it has gone pretty well but the passenger side quarter has been a challenge. Before I owned the car, that panel had been hit, dirlled and pulled, gouged, and slathered with a thick coat of Bondo. Then I cut it and rewelded. In other words, it was a mess. After hours with hammer and dolly and the shrinking disc, I got it close, but not perfect. Low spots are quite shallow (less than 1mm) and the panel is tight with no oil canning. I'd love to keep working those low spots but I'm I'm im a race against Mother Nature so don't feel I have the luxury of spending several more hours. I may come back to it if time allows.

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Lack of skill is definitely a limitation, but there is another that prevents this panel being perfect. There is mild pitting on the backside of the panel. In hindsight, I could have tried filling the pits with the Fiber Tech filler and smoothing before metal bumping, but I didn't so those little pits telegraphed through so will need filler on both sides to get smooth.

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I started with the passenger side. I F'd up the gaps stupidly trying to sharpen the corners along the lock post with a hammer. I cut a piece of flat bar to let be reach inside the quarter panel and massage the metal back where it belonged.

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That worked pretty well. The gap averaged about 4mm which is good, but wast narrower at the bottom and a bit wider at the top. I've obsessed over any pics posted showing door gaps over the last year and a half and paid particulary attention to survivor and unrestored cars. I've noticed that gaps narrowing at the bottom is pretty typical so I decided to leave the bottom alone, but I wanted a max of 4mm at the top so started by added a bit of metal along the lock post edge.

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Next I sprayed the edge with gray primer and set my compass to 4mm to strike a line to grind to.

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Not looking too bad after grinding.

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Next was applying a bit of the Fiber Tech filler to smooth the edge and refine things a bit more. I'm pretty happy with the result.

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The gap a above the door lock is still a tad wide (~4.5mm - 5mm). I might revisit that later but this also seems fairly common so it isn't bothering me too much. My goal here is to have a car that looks factory fresh - no more, and no less perfect than the factory produced (but with better rust protection ).

I have a couple minor dings to tap out on the extreme rear quarter and after that, I think this side is ready for final prep for primer. This is only the DTM reinforced Fiber Tech filler over welded patch, but so far, doesn't seem like an embarrassing amount of filler. There will be more conventional filler applied over the epoxy primer but I'm confident that I'll have reduced the amount of filler that was on this car by about 95%.

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The only thing I did on the front gap was adjust the patch at the bottom of the fender for perfect alignment with the door. Again, it narrows toward the bottom but that seems typical. The gap at the top is a tad wide but the door is hung about 1mm too low so that will tighten up with final (and proper) door adjustment.

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Okay, lunch break is overy, I'd best get back at it!

I am enjoying your progress Brent!

Nice progress

Spent days slowly reading the whole thread.

Great work man!

I had many similar experiences when I did my blue car almost 10 years ago now.

Keep it up, it just gets better from here!

John

Good lord! I hope it didn't trigger your PSD reliving the horror. I read that build thread when I was planning my attack on this one. I think my car would be considered "rust free" compared to what you started with on that one! I'm in awe. I love the wooden rocker. I seriously considered following your lead but shop space doesn't allow it.

Thanks for the compliments and encouragement everyone. It helps to keep the motivators running.

Dug in to the gaps on the driver's side. Not quite as simple as the other side Gaps suck all around. This is the third time I've fit the door on the driver's side and freaked out after seeing the wide gap up front and trying to think what I screwed up. But the front gap is set by the hinge post, hinges, and front fender fitment - none of which could be affected by anything I've done. It's not THAT bad but will definitely need about 1mm metal added to the rear eadge of the fender around the curve. I can do that AFTER Raptor is applied without worrying about melting the bed liner or setting it on fire. So I'll just set that aside until later. And since I'm doing one side, might as well do the other...

On the other hand, the rear gap needs to be squared away before bed liner goes on. This is the side that I patched the bottom corner of the panel once and adjusted the gap. Didn't like the result so tore it out and patched again, and still managed to fuch it up. Gap is WAY too wide at the bottom.

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I also screwed up the alignment so it sat proud of the door which was actually lucky because that gave me a little extra metal to push around to close the gap. Otherwise I would have to split it and weld in a piece of filler. This pic is actually after I fixed it so I just pushed the door in a little too far to show what what it looked like before.

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The plan was to bang that section forward with my flat bar inside the fender, alternated by hammering the side in toward the jamb to simultaneously close the gap and bring the fender flush with the door. I couldn't figure out why I wasn't getting headway with my flat bar until I realized I'd forgotten to reverse the bevel so it contacted the outside corner. Yeah, that's snow on the ground outside the window but it should start warming up tomorrow.

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The plan actually worked. I couldn't get a good photo, but the gap is closed to near 4mm but the edge is rolled to a softer bend. That's okay because I can add metal there. I didn't say it was an elegant solution, but it's a solution. AI guess I forgot to snap a pic after tacking along the edge, but you saw it on the other side.

After that, it is a repeat of the other side. Scribe with compass and grind back to the line. Looking much better. The door is actually slightly ajar in this pic because I don't have the striker's mounted and it swung open a few millimeters. So the gap looks a little wider than it actually is. It's pretty much dead on at 4mm the whole way.

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That was a good spot to quit for the night.

First Drive in 32 Years!!!

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Hahahahaha well I’ve got to admit that’s the first time
I’ve seen seen that!
Drive baby drive,drive....

I retired in 2014. My wife did too. I have growing lists of honey-doos that I'm chipping away at, but let's be seroius - I'm doing a lot of things I want to do as well. She shakes her head and rolls her eyes when I buy new toys, or engage in some activities that I haven't done since before we were married ... every now & then she says I've reverted to a 12-year-old adolescent

Hey, I worked hard for 44 years to become a child again

That pic is awesome.

Hey, you look like Clay driving there!!!

Except your wife isn't driving the car faster than you...

--DD

Fun day. After taking my imaginary spin, I got to work on some of the really important stuff that I've been dying to get to. First really important thing was fixing the little flange at the bottom of the firewall in front of the fuel tank. The tin worms had nibbled at it and since this seam doesn't get sealer, it was going to drive me nuts leaving it there.

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Rather than cutting and welding and risking making things worse than I started, I decided to fake it with the reinforced filler. Normally I wouldn't try to build an edge with filler, but this is in a pretty protected area and purely cosmetic. I don't think the car will break in half if it fails. First step was to mask off the new edge with tape.

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Then I slathered on the filler a little thicker than the flange and cut the new straight line with a wide taping knife. This pic is out of sequence because that filler sets very quickly and it's not a good idea to stop to take pics in the process.

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The finishing touch was to reestablish the shadow line by cutting the firm, but not fully set filler with a utility knife. by tilting the knife up at just the right angle, I was able to cut out a small V to match the thickness and shadow of the original flange.

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Hey, that's not too bad! We'll see how it holds up.

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Now for something really fun. Plug welds are all fine and good, but they aren't spot welds, are they? Or maybe they are? I did a lot of Googling on other forums and found a few ideas for faking spot welds, but none that would work for me so I tried my own way. First I skimmed a little filler over the ground plug welds to fill any shrink lines or voids. Then I used this little carbide burr I picked up in a set on Amazon for 20 bucks.

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I found it works better at a high speed. I tried a slower speed to keep the heat down, but it wants to grab and run away, leaving gouges along the way. Higher speed allowed more controlled to gouge out a dish and wallow it out to the size I wanted. I like that they are slightly irregular, like the original spots. It was hard to tell how they would look without paint (if you look hard, you can see some along the bottom flange), so I brushed on a little primer to get a taste.

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Yeah, I'm pretty happy with that. I was able to do one side of the frunk reinforcement brackets in about 15 minutes. If anyone ever has to remove any of these panels I welded on, they are going to cuss me to hell.

Looks like this weekend might be my window to get the car outside for undercoat. Lots to do before then!

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You need anti-sway bars.

Body in Gray!!!!

The gods were smiling today.

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And a few shots to show off my "spoof" welds

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What a great milestone!

Who-Ray!

Dude

Congratulations. That is a major milestone.

Beautiful - well done.

Way to go Brent! Good on ya!

Looks terrific Brent!

It was a beautiful fall day in Montana. I was thinking you would be spraying primer, congratulations Brent. Fantastic job!

Fantastic milestone achieved!

It will go faster from here.

John

Thanks everyone! I won't lie, getting this tub in primer felt great, but Montana had one more bluebird day to serve me so there was no time to rest. Well, I rested for a few hours to let the primer set up, then I was up until midnight with the brush-on seam sealer. I went through almost the whole quart.

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Even though these are going to get the spray sealer treatment, I wanted to make sure any gaps were sealed with the permanently flexible stuff first.

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Then this morning, I started off by masking off the tub.

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I finished up the masking just as the tent had warmed to 68F so I wheeled the whole works into the tent for more fun. First up was using Kent's method for replicating spray-on seam sealer (as seen on Cairo's build). I just used tintable raptor with no tint at low pressure. About 20 psi seemed to match the original factory stuff pretty well. The bed liner doesn't build quite as high as the original sealer, but it's darn close. Super easy to do.

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But there was a problem... (to be continued...)

I bought a 6 liter kit of Raptor because a couple people have mentioned they wished they had a 5th liter when they sprayed their undercoat. The kit allowed for 5 liters to be tinted for undercoat, and one liter for "spray sealer." When I used up my liter of untinted Raptor, I still had a lot of sealing to be done. Luckily I had started with the belly of the car so could move on to spraying undercoat, which I decided to do and just see how things turned out. If needed, I could buy another liter and spray the rest of the seams later.

But first, I mixed up a little single stage silver metallic to spray suspension mounts and other parts I didn't want heavily coated in bed liner. I didn't think to take pics but it wasn't very exciting. I did wind up with extra in the pot so rather than waste it, I sprayed what I had left under the cowl and in the fuel tank compartment. This wasn't planned so I'll wind up sanding some of it smooth and going over it again, but it gives a flavor of what is to come.


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Then it was on to the main event. There was another screw up which wound up all balancing out. Raptor instructions say you can add "up to 100 ml" of tint per bottle. So, I bought 500 ml of tint to color 5 liters. The instructions also tell you to add hardener to fill up to a line on the bottle, then tint to another line. When finished, you have barely enough room to insert the schutz gun without overflowing. Worked great but seemed like I was using up my tint. Sure enough, I wound up with only enough tint to color 4 liters of mix. Either the paint shop screwed up and didn't give me 500 ml, or (more likely) there is something screwy with Upol's fill lines and it takes more than 100 ml to fill between line A and line B.

At any rate about 40 psi gave what I thought was a pleasing result. I found that 4 liters was PLENTY to spray the underbelly and wheel wells. I even went back over areas I thought would get the most abuse several times to build up a thick layer. That meant I had one bottle left to finish the seam sealing. Here's the result:

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And here's my big fuch up (you knew there had to be one). Toward the end, the trigger on the schutz gun was getting really jenky and kept catching. Right at the very last of the last bottle of tinted, the trigger jammed and I had to pull so hard to break it loose that I wound up jerking my hand forward just as the trigger cut loose and barfed two big splooshes out. If I had any more stuff to spray, I could have just let it dry a bit and gone back over to blend the texture. But nope, that's was the end. I probably should have tried adding a little tint to the end of the last bottle after spraying sealer texture but didn't think about that until later. It's just undercoat on the belly of the car. I guess I can live with it.

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Lastly... the final result of my first butt weld seam, and check out those spoof welds.

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This is turning out really great Brent! I wouldn't lose a second of sleep over the two wad piles.